Popeye, that’s it. Dr. Who and Popeye. I’ve never owned a Popeye, but it was almost the second pin I ever bought. But I decided to spring for a new GB instead.

I bought a HUO white water several years ago that had the goodie bag still in the game. The goodie bag included lightning flippers, so I assume they all shipped with standards but the operator could install lightning flippers if they decided. I’ve never actually seen a white water with them installed though.

OK thanks for the tips everyone! New sleeve and spring ordered. This'll be a first for me but hopefully it's pretty straightforward?

Trying to find the actual part that makes contact with the ball -- the one you mentioned comparing to part suppliers etc. Which one would that be on here?

Thanks again! Really appreciate the community here.

G

Screenshot 2023-01-15 at 3.53.01 PM (resized).png

Screenshot 2023-01-15 at 3.53.06 PM (resized).png

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-bell-armature-plunger-assembly-a-6306-2.html

LTG : )

You got this!!

You have the manual ? If so it's the drawing on top of page 2-35, not the slingshot drawing you pictured.

LTG : )

Thanks for the tips on the plunger etc!

Also FYI, after seeing it on Youtube, I recently added 3 sets of 3 Ice Blue 6MD 12v light pads to the backbox & under the cabinet and tapped them into one of the flashers in the backbox and now the whole thing lights up in an amazing way whenever lightning strikes (which is a lot, as you all know, haha).

Super cheap and so easy even I could do it without much fuss

Dragon I would also check the alignment of the plunger to the shooter lane, as in your pic it looks off center or the coil bracket is slightly bent. With the game off, push the plunger forward with your finger and sight down from above to make sure it’s centered and straight when extended

Ok thanks, I'll check that alignment too. Might have gotten slightly knocked off center when I installed the glowing red cross over it. G

Nice job!

Where did you get the light pads? Do you have any pictures?

This was my initial order at Comet Pinball. I liked the effect so I got 2 more sets of the pads and some more connections.
I had to use some two sided tape in a few places to hold them to the cabinet, but they're totally out of sight.

Good luck with it!

Screenshot 2023-01-17 at 5.06.36 PM (resized).png

I have a very nice extra Dracula manual to sell if anyone needs...PM me.

Reassembling my BSD and I've come to the semicircular plastic ramp that connects the coffin ramp to the left wireform. This is a new ramp with no decals yet and I'm thinking of leaving off the "stone wall" decal so we can see the "skill shot" part of the backboard.

I'll give it a try and see how it looks - but have any of you done this, and if so, can you please post a photo?

Thanks,
-Zee

Yes I did this with my Gothic edition worked well. Also made a custom Skill Shot plastic for a crisper image.

A bit hard to see as my phone picked up reflection but look around the 1:40 mark

Thank you. I like the look and will not apply that particular decal.

Your machine is incredible, by the way.

That thing is beautiful... 2 castles?

Yes 2 castles but all modded, Village is ugly!

I’ve had my BSD now since Sept. 2012. (Paid $1600 back then) Looking at old photos, this game was sooooo dark with regular incandescent bulbs.

Here’s a picture the day I got the machine:
DFFC8D07-9BBD-41D2-A781-FA7F240070B3 (resized).jpeg

And what it looks like today:
93C486FE-2755-4B68-9C1E-2EE57ED61360 (resized).jpeg

Anyone know where to get the 3 opto transmitter board from ? For the castle lock, or does everyone change that old board for single transmitters & wire accordingly ?

UPDATE: Found @ pinball life, shipping to Australia $43 USD...killer

Just finished a playfield replacement. I never played the game prior. I am finding it practically impossible to make the mystery hole shot. The ball just bounces around and out. Should I bend the back metal plate down or maybe up? It is a royal pain to get to and if that isn't the answer what is? Does everyone have the same issue? I also installed all new flipper, flipper coils and hardware.
So they really sling the ball
Thanks in advance

Getting closer to finishing my Horror re scoring of BSD using Pinsound.

Mystery hole is pretty easy in my opinion, shots go right in. I don't think my flippers are particularly powerful though, they seem normal for lack of a better word.

Do you happen to know the pitch of your playfield? I have a hard time consistently hitting the left ramp on mine, and I want to rule out it being a leveling issue on my part, vs me just not being good at pinball. Also, your mix sounds great. Just got a pinsound board in my machine, so I'll be looking forward to trying your mix when you finish it

Spent 3 hours tearing everything down. Bent the angle metal up. Removed the cliffy steel tabs that are part of the hole protector. Tuned the mist ball opto that was working intermittently and now everything works great. Scored 1.1 billion. Sures beats my 5 million average prior. Really annoying when a game lasts under 30 seconds and you hit one ball once. Set ball save to 10 seconds. That'll show Dracula. Thanks for your input!

Thank you! So I’ve had this game for 11 years now.. and the only time I have noticed I can consistently hit that left loop is when the flipper is positioned completely straight following the inlane plastic… not using the little holes for alignment. I struggled with that shot forever when I had it “properly aligned” but after re positioning the flipper bats to be perfectly straight with the Inlanes I’m able to make the shot a lot more successfully. I did also change my solenoids to FL-11629s.

I sag my flippers a bit. This helps to make repeated left and right ramps.

Are these stronger solenoids than stock? I have a hell of a time hitting the ramps so the angle thing makes a lot of sense but I haven't ever thought I need more flipper power. Sure, you get a fair number of rollbacks from the left ramp but those are mainly from random shots, solid shots go up no problem. I'm hoping switching to normal length flippers makes the game a little more forgiving but also makes hitting the ramps a little easier too.

Yea, these are the blue label solenoids. Next step up from the reds.

The manual calls for "Orange" coils for the flippers: FL-15411

Ahh, you are correct.. they were orange on mine. Reds I guess are a step below the orange and blue a step above.

Seeking some assistance from anyone who's familiar with diagnosing the MPU on Dracula. Row #4 on my switch matrix is completely out. All the wires on the row 4 switches show continuity, and I've done a test at the board. The pin associated with row 4 doesn't show in the switch test when done at the board. So my question is: which components on the board should I be checking / replacing? Thanks in advance!

Do you have the WPC schematic? Take a look at the connector header and trace the lines to see which ICs it runs into.

Just going off memory but I think the 373 is the buffer and the 2803 is the larger IC which is the latches. If you need to replace then solder in a socket, if it happens again it's an easy swap. Plus the less times you heat up these old boards the better.

I used this handy CPU map and figure that either the U13 or U18 chips are the problem. Would this be correct?

800px-WPC89_CPU_compnt-side_ZAZ_FEB2017-10 (resized).jpg

Am I missing something here. How can you know which chips are responsible from a picture? You need a schematic.

It’s color coded and numbered so you can easily find the component path of j206-7 (for example)

Wow great diagram, thanks for sharing

Can you do us a favor and give us a step-by-step of your example? I see the color-coding but how does one trace the exact pin from a connector to a pin on a chip using that picture?

Is there a better/larger/more clear version of it? The small print is barely discernable.

Thanks

Doesn't matter which pin it is. Your gonna replace the whole IC anyway.

Here's the schematic from the manual.

switch matrix circuit (resized).png

Hello. Finally I repaired my board, but the issue was still present. Some times the long beam will not register and at the same time both, left and right switches will show closed. I decided to buy a new opto, and the issue remains. The only difference is that the new 24 opto have a green led that shows when the long beam is interrupted. When the issue starts, on the switch edge, the long beam and both left and right switches dont register (left and right appear as closed) but the opto board shows the green led going on and off when I interrupt the beam. Any ideas?

Can someone post a pic of the wiring to their front cabinet start button and right flipper. I seem to have a strange splice on the yellow:white wire to the shooter button into mine and am wanting to see what factory should look like

I have a Bram Stokers Dracula. I just noticed there were 6,801 made! I rarely see them for sale. Is that because everyone loves theirs and wont let it go? I have an Indianapolis 500 and I feel like I see it for sale just as much as Dracula and they only made 2,249. I have also seen just as many Indianapolis 500s on location as Dracula. I thought Indianapolis 500 was just as popular to play as Dracula. I have both machines and need to sell one. I love both but wonder if I should keep the more rare one. But Dracula is so good...

I’ve had both and Dracula is still here. Indy500 is a good solid game but not that difficult in comparison to Drac

Seems fishy, take a look at the connection on the MPU.

Indy 500 is a really good game, would love to own it one day, but if I had to choose between them, it would be out the door before Drac.

I have both. I suggest keeping both of them if possible but, if i HAD to pick one to stay, it would be BSD ( with pinsound )

I already removed and reset all cabling at the MPU, yhe issue does not look to be there. Another strange think that make me believe that the issue is somewhere under the PF, is that sometimes when the issue is happening, when I basculate the PF up, even though the magnet is not touching the left switch, it starts registering like crazy. I already checked both switches, adjusted, measured both diodes, but I'll install 2 new diodes on the switches just in case. Any other thoughts? Thanks.

Bad switch??

Edit: oops, overlooked you saying you checked the switch. Still may be worth replacing if you have one on hand.

Agree 100%. I had an Indy 500 and loved it. That game rocks. If I could make room I’d have it again. I’m on my 2nd BSD, now with Pinsound, and I don’t think I could part with it.

I got an Indy 500 for an extremely good price a couple years back, and used it for trade bait for Dracula. No regrets.