Just amazing. I must say that your other mix and now this one have finally made me buy a pinsound (just this morning).

Looking forward to hearing these at home.

I also posted this in the cats and pinballs thread, but I figured it's relevant here also. As if BSD isn't difficult enough, I have to deal with this little hellspawn lurking in the shadows, then attacking the balls!

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Was she in great pain?

Yeah, she was in great pain and then we cut off her head, drove a stake thru her heart and burned her and then she found peace.

Doctor!

"'Tis a beast!"

You guys are clever! I took a closer look at the exit switch and there's no actuator arm (bent metal thingy?) hanging down. I must have knocked it off while cleaning it or something. Couldn't find it anywhere on the playing field, so I'll order one. Are they standard size or does anyone know the size for that switch?

Thanks so much for all the help! G

I think I figured it out from the manual. Looks like it's a Williams/Bally Sub-Microswitch 5647-12693-21

Thanks again,

G

I don't have the game in front of me, but i think there are small lock nuts securing the diverter to the arm, remove those, and if needed, remove the rest of the mech from under the playfield.

Ive come into possession of some NOS proto plastics for my BSD. Does anyone have any knowledge of what length hex spacers I would need to install these? Thanks

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See here: https://shop.thepinwitch.com/Geraetespezifisches/Williams-75/Dracula/Befestigungskit-fuer-Prototyp---Slingshotplastics-Dracula.html?language=de
There are even the article numbers in the description

Thank you!

Loving this from LaBordeTechCustoms !!!

Check out Cameron's Etsy site....he has heaps of different titles !! Licensed product too !!

I added the clear plastic/playfield glass but he does now supply the units (and I'd say much better than my version !!)

Cheers

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Link?

https://www.etsy.com/au/shop/LaBordeTechCustoms

Hey fellow bsd owners.
I've had mine for about a year and started having some phantom switch issues so have decided it's a good time to do a partial shop. Mostly cleaning, led-ing, and looking for any burnt connectors, re-flowing optos, looking cold solder joints, etc.
I wasn't planning on even changing the rubbers as they are in good shape and also seem to be the older better quality type that you can't seem to get anymore. ...but now that I've got it torn apart I'm realizing how much of a pain it is to get down to a lot of them and now am second guessing myself. I've also just read in a bsd shop out guide that it originally had black (can anyone confirm this?). If so, I'm assuming the white rubbers have become popular due to the difficulty level on our mean old dracs.
Also, has anyone tried different rubber rings like silicone or titan on bsd. I don't mean to get into one of THOSE discussions, I know the difference, but just checking if anyone has had personal experience and have found a preference on bsd specifically.
I mean, if anyone has suggestions on anything else I should think of doing while I have this sucker torn apart, I'm all ears.
Thanks ahead for any experience shared.

Ps. I also have a pinsound, which is currently in a de jp, but will migrate over eventually. It's great that there's some new packages people are sharing . Love pinsound, best mod.

I have Titan GITD, they seem pretty good to me, had the original black bands on it before the restore

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Nice, thanks. So all titan clear with blue titan flipper bands too. Clean look.

I'm using titan red bands. Love em.

I have Titans on mine as well. The game plays great!

Digging into this project day 1. Not going well.

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Thanks for the input guys.

Is that the j120? If so mine had a previous (workaround)repair at the same 2 connectors:

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Yeah it's real crispy. Most of the back box lights are out. All the inserts are out.

Nice! That'll be real satisfying to fix.

I decided to add the brides to my machine. Pictures don't do these justice.

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Still have Tron?

whatya got going on here ?? flasher ??

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I've had mine for 6 months, still battling the "Ground Short Row 1 is Stuck Closed" which includes most of the errors in your post but I'm kind of unmotivated because it will play fine once you cycle through the error messages and I've got a T2 that's eating up most of my time. I found the notes on this thread helpful: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bsd-repaired-here-are-my-repair-notes

That the graveyard "blue" light purchased from Lees Parts. It really adds a nice effect to the game .

Finally got my BSD back together after about being apart for almost 6 years. Game plays great, new playfield, decals, plastics, ramps etc. I started to take it apart right after I bought it. Now I remember why it bought it - so much fun.

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Great looking game. Where did you get the Elizabeta tombstone switch cover?

I bought it a few years ago but they are no longer being made. Here is a link to the original post...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bsd-interactive-led-stained-glass-castle-switch-covers-mod-thread

Dracula has a crucifix on his tombstone? Lol.

I've been poking around but my Google-fu isn't turning up anything fruitful.
How would you guys go about filling in this common divot where the ball launches?
This game is a keeper so I'm not too concerned about painting to match, just want to fill it in and protect from getting any deeper.

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"The debt that all Dracs pay." In my case, I did the following:

1. Scanned the playfield in that area on a flatbed scanner at high DPI
2. Cleaned up the missing artwork in photoshop
3. Printed out the repaired artwork onto a waterslide decal
4. Filled in the playfield divot with successive layers of automotive clear coat, sanded flat
5. Applied the decal from step 3
6. Final clear coats on top of the entire playfield
7. Mylar "cushion" strip applied to the impact zone to hopefully ward off future damage

It's a long process.

This is an excellent suggestion. May I offer a "down and dirty" alternative. The spot in question is barely noticeable when the machine is set up for playing. If it's not a "showpiece" or restored machine, I'd clean the area up as best you can, touch up said area with paints, markers, etc just to hide the bare wood. Clear it, and cover with mylar. It it the best way? Hell no. Is it suitable for a players machine to halt further damage? Yup. It's just a matter of how much time and effort you want to put into it.

This is how I would approach it also. You don't really have to mylar it, just some clear over the fix.

Covered it in a playfield protector and ignored the hell out of it.

Wow, thanks for the great advice guys.
This is a permanent stay and a players condition that'll be in my cellar till I'm gone. I'm leaning much more towards the 'down and dirty' method as it's not a visible area like was said.
Clearcoating sounds daunting, I'm much more open to trying to contain it to that corner.
Do you mean clear in a can and spray a ton of layers until it's flush?
I'm in the middle of tearing down the whole top side so I'd like to know what to order soon.

The clear I mentioned is an automotive 2-part catalyzed clearcoat, and it does take some knowledge and experience to do it right.

To fill in divots, it can take 4-5 applications. A very small amount of the proper viscosity is mixed up and dribbled onto the area of concern of the prepped playfield. When it cures, it is block-sanded down and the process repeated until the entire area is flat and smooth.

The same technique is used to level dished inserts.

Down and dirty method would be some carefully brushed on clear. Maybe a small careful sanding once cured. And I'd definitely put a piece of mylar down once done. I just did a playfield swap on mine, and I put a large strip of mylar down in that whole area.

Awesome, thanks everyone. I'll have to post in here when I'm closer to ready for this.

Sounds like replacing the 10 opto board will take care of it

Hi Everyone. I picked up a BSD at Allentown with a few problems, so I'm working my way through the list.

The coil for the right gate is on all of time and immediately starts cooking the coil. Any ideas? As I look at this coil in the manual, I see it's driven/wired through the Fliptronics board, which is a bit odd.

Thanks.

Bad transistor.

LTG : )

I figured that would be the answer. Looks like Q5 on the Fliptronic board (TIP102). I'll go down that path...

Thanks!

Yesterday was World Dracula Day! Part of my prop collection are these shadow puppets. They are screen-used props from the movie Bram Stoker’s Dracula used in battle scenes. The one on the left has a moveable arm with sword; the one on the right is stationary and is a topper
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Anyone know why these aren't being made anymore? I am certain if a run was done it'd sell - I'd buy them

Dracula is hard enough, wouldn't obstructing sight lines to the ball make it even harder?

Medisinyl stated that most of his mods are limited. Once he sells so many that’s it. You’d have to ask him how firm that is. I like the mod and would get a set if available.