(Topic ID: 29878)

Bram Stokers Dracula Club....Welcome to the Carpathians

By shacklersrevenge

9 years ago


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  • Latest reply 9 hours ago by KornFreak28
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There are 9,347 posts in this topic. You are on page 183 of 187.
#9101 3 months ago
Quoted from davebart5:

Here's a video showing the second Pinsound installment, Expanded Mix - Lucy v2, exploring the horrible condition of poor little Lucy.
This is a sample game that covered a lot of ground, although the camera angle isn't the greatest and it's mid-day. I avoided hitting the skill shot to hear as many coffin shots as possible. The credit dot is the "check under shooter ramp" switch that pops up every once in a while, so not affecting play.
This mix is meant to be paired with the Dracula version just released, Expanded Mix - Dracula v2, with the intention to flip between battling Dracula and the concubines to then racing to solve Lucy's affliction ball to ball or each game.
Lucy's mix features her own intro music, launch sounds, and mid-game phrases, so you'll always know which mix you're on when switching or prior to launching into the game. Lucy has her own video target sounds, video mode intros, a unique full coffin shot/lock/jackpot sequence, her own castle locks/jackpot sequences, and more. You'll hear less Dracula, more Lucy and the doctors racing to save her.
The coffin shots detail Lucy's experience turning into a vampire, and each shot has multiple sounds to choose from that fit the phase of transformation it represents. First shot is the episode of the werewolf attacking her. Second shot is her reacting to the attack. Third shot is her describing new sensations. Fourth shot is an outburst that is clear evidence she's different and dangerous. Final shot is the coffin opening. Ball locks, stake hits, and the jackpot are all new and all Lucy.
I should have Lucy ready for consumption any day now. Just a few more tweaks. And as usual, there so much the video doesn't show, as each action can have multiple sounds to choose from, so you'll have to explore it.

Just amazing. I must say that your other mix and now this one have finally made me buy a pinsound (just this morning).

Looking forward to hearing these at home.

10
#9102 3 months ago

I also posted this in the cats and pinballs thread, but I figured it's relevant here also. As if BSD isn't difficult enough, I have to deal with this little hellspawn lurking in the shadows, then attacking the balls!

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#9103 3 months ago
Quoted from davebart5:

the horrible condition of poor little Lucy.

Was she in great pain?

Yeah, she was in great pain and then we cut off her head, drove a stake thru her heart and burned her and then she found peace.

Doctor!

#9104 3 months ago
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

I also posted this in the cats and pinballs thread, but I figured it's relevant here also. As if BSD isn't difficult enough, I have to deal with this little hellspawn lurking in the shadows, then attacking the balls!
[quoted image][quoted image]

"'Tis a beast!"

#9105 3 months ago
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

I would also suggest the exit switch is most likely the issue. Also make sure the exit switch doesn't simply need adjusting.

You guys are clever! I took a closer look at the exit switch and there's no actuator arm (bent metal thingy?) hanging down. I must have knocked it off while cleaning it or something. Couldn't find it anywhere on the playing field, so I'll order one. Are they standard size or does anyone know the size for that switch?

Thanks so much for all the help! G

#9106 3 months ago
Quoted from Luckdragon100:

You guys are clever! I took a closer look at the exit switch and there's no actuator arm (bent metal thingy?) hanging down. I must have knocked it off while cleaning it or something. Couldn't find it anywhere on the playing field, so I'll order one. Are they standard size or does anyone know the size for that switch?
Thanks so much for all the help! G

I think I figured it out from the manual. Looks like it's a Williams/Bally Sub-Microswitch 5647-12693-21

Thanks again,

G

#9107 3 months ago

Quick question hopefully... Maybe I'm just tired, but how do you remove that ball diverter on the big back ramp? Thanks!

#9108 3 months ago
Quoted from MaxAsh:

Quick question hopefully... Maybe I'm just tired, but how do you remove that ball diverter on the big back ramp? Thanks!

I don't have the game in front of me, but i think there are small lock nuts securing the diverter to the arm, remove those, and if needed, remove the rest of the mech from under the playfield.

#9109 3 months ago
Quoted from roffels:

I don't have the game in front of me, but i think there are small lock nuts securing the diverter to the arm, remove those, and if needed, remove the rest of the mech from under the playfield.

Just wanted to follow up on this and reply with a pic for those it might help some day. I feel pretty silly, as I never looked at the back of the diverter blade. I was working on the game from the left side, and from that side it looks like the blade is riveted to the arm. It wasn't until I walked around the other side after reading the above post that I saw the two tiny nuts (oddly not lock nuts) on the back. Sure enough, removing the diverter blade allowed me to get the ramp off. Sometimes when you look at something from a few angles (including underneath), you still forget there are more!

BSD_Diverter - Copy (resized).jpg

#9110 3 months ago

Ive come into possession of some NOS proto plastics for my BSD. Does anyone have any knowledge of what length hex spacers I would need to install these? Thanks

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#9111 3 months ago
Quoted from Nomad:

Ive come into possession of some NOS proto plastics for my BSD. Does anyone have any knowledge of what length hex spacers I would need to install these? Thanks
[quoted image]

See here: https://shop.thepinwitch.com/Geraetespezifisches/Williams-75/Dracula/Befestigungskit-fuer-Prototyp---Slingshotplastics-Dracula.html?language=de
There are even the article numbers in the description

1 week later
#9113 3 months ago

Loving this from LaBordeTechCustoms !!!

Check out Cameron's Etsy site....he has heaps of different titles !! Licensed product too !!

I added the clear plastic/playfield glass but he does now supply the units (and I'd say much better than my version !!)

Cheers

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#9114 3 months ago
Quoted from paulie484:

Loving this from LaBordeTechCustoms !!!
Check out Cameron's Etsy site....he has heaps of different titles !! Licensed product too !!
I added the clear plastic/playfield glass but he does now supply the units (and I'd say much better than my version !!)
Cheers[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Link?

#9116 3 months ago

Hey fellow bsd owners.
I've had mine for about a year and started having some phantom switch issues so have decided it's a good time to do a partial shop. Mostly cleaning, led-ing, and looking for any burnt connectors, re-flowing optos, looking cold solder joints, etc.
I wasn't planning on even changing the rubbers as they are in good shape and also seem to be the older better quality type that you can't seem to get anymore. ...but now that I've got it torn apart I'm realizing how much of a pain it is to get down to a lot of them and now am second guessing myself. I've also just read in a bsd shop out guide that it originally had black (can anyone confirm this?). If so, I'm assuming the white rubbers have become popular due to the difficulty level on our mean old dracs.
Also, has anyone tried different rubber rings like silicone or titan on bsd. I don't mean to get into one of THOSE discussions, I know the difference, but just checking if anyone has had personal experience and have found a preference on bsd specifically.
I mean, if anyone has suggestions on anything else I should think of doing while I have this sucker torn apart, I'm all ears.
Thanks ahead for any experience shared.

Ps. I also have a pinsound, which is currently in a de jp, but will migrate over eventually. It's great that there's some new packages people are sharing . Love pinsound, best mod.

#9117 3 months ago

I have Titan GITD, they seem pretty good to me, had the original black bands on it before the restore

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#9118 3 months ago
Quoted from Inittowinit:

I have Titan GITD, they seem pretty good to me, had the original black bands on it before the restore[quoted image]

Nice, thanks. So all titan clear with blue titan flipper bands too. Clean look.

#9119 3 months ago
Quoted from System-J:

Nice, thanks. So all titan clear with blue titan flipper bands too. Clean look.

I'm using titan red bands. Love em.

#9120 3 months ago

I have Titans on mine as well. The game plays great!

#9121 3 months ago

Digging into this project day 1. Not going well.

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#9122 3 months ago
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

I'm using titan red bands. Love em.

Quoted from gweempose:

I have Titans on mine as well. The game plays great!

Thanks for the input guys.

Quoted from ryandimx:

Digging into this project day 1. Not going well.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Is that the j120? If so mine had a previous (workaround)repair at the same 2 connectors:

20220517_101644 (resized).jpg

#9123 3 months ago
Quoted from System-J:

Thanks for the input guys.

Is that the j120? If so mine had a previous (workaround)repair at the same 2 connectors:
[quoted image]

Yeah it's real crispy. Most of the back box lights are out. All the inserts are out.

#9124 3 months ago
Quoted from ryandimx:

Yeah it's real crispy. Most of the back box lights are out. All the inserts are out.

Nice! That'll be real satisfying to fix.

#9125 87 days ago

I decided to add the brides to my machine. Pictures don't do these justice.

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#9126 84 days ago
Quoted from movingpictures:

I regretted leaving the club in 2012 when I sold to help pay for TRON.
After this weekend, I am now a card carrying member again.
As my girlfriend so eloquently put it:
"GOOD. Now don't fuck up and sell it this time"
[quoted image]

Still have Tron?

#9127 84 days ago
Quoted from Moomert1:

I decided to add the brides to my machine. Pictures don't do these justice.
[quoted image][quoted image]

whatya got going on here ?? flasher ??

Capture (resized).JPG
#9128 83 days ago
Quoted from ryandimx:

Digging into this project day 1. Not going well.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I've had mine for 6 months, still battling the "Ground Short Row 1 is Stuck Closed" which includes most of the errors in your post but I'm kind of unmotivated because it will play fine once you cycle through the error messages and I've got a T2 that's eating up most of my time. I found the notes on this thread helpful: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bsd-repaired-here-are-my-repair-notes

#9129 83 days ago
Quoted from paulie484:

whatya got going on here ?? flasher ??[quoted image]

That the graveyard "blue" light purchased from Lees Parts. It really adds a nice effect to the game .

#9130 83 days ago

Finally got my BSD back together after about being apart for almost 6 years. Game plays great, new playfield, decals, plastics, ramps etc. I started to take it apart right after I bought it. Now I remember why it bought it - so much fun.

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#9131 83 days ago
Quoted from marksf123:

Finally got my BSD back together after about being apart for almost 6 years.

Great looking game. Where did you get the Elizabeta tombstone switch cover?

#9132 83 days ago
Quoted from PTHermes:

Great looking game. Where did you get the Elizabeta tombstone switch cover?

I bought it a few years ago but they are no longer being made. Here is a link to the original post...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bsd-interactive-led-stained-glass-castle-switch-covers-mod-thread

#9133 83 days ago
Quoted from marksf123:

I bought it a few years ago but they are no longer being made. Here is a link to the original post...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bsd-interactive-led-stained-glass-castle-switch-covers-mod-thread

Dracula has a crucifix on his tombstone? Lol.

#9134 81 days ago

I've been poking around but my Google-fu isn't turning up anything fruitful.
How would you guys go about filling in this common divot where the ball launches?
This game is a keeper so I'm not too concerned about painting to match, just want to fill it in and protect from getting any deeper.

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#9135 81 days ago
Quoted from Jwf_pinball:

I've been poking around but my Google-fu isn't turning up anything fruitful.
How would you guys go about filling in this common divot where the ball launches?
This game is a keeper so I'm not too concerned about painting to match, just want to fill it in and protect from getting any deeper.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

"The debt that all Dracs pay." In my case, I did the following:

1. Scanned the playfield in that area on a flatbed scanner at high DPI
2. Cleaned up the missing artwork in photoshop
3. Printed out the repaired artwork onto a waterslide decal
4. Filled in the playfield divot with successive layers of automotive clear coat, sanded flat
5. Applied the decal from step 3
6. Final clear coats on top of the entire playfield
7. Mylar "cushion" strip applied to the impact zone to hopefully ward off future damage

It's a long process.

#9136 81 days ago
Quoted from Zee:

"The debt that all Dracs pay." In my case, I did the following:
1. Scanned the playfield in that area on a flatbed scanner at high DPI
2. Cleaned up the missing artwork in photoshop
3. Printed out the repaired artwork onto a waterslide decal
4. Filled in the playfield divot with successive layers of automotive clear coat, sanded flat
5. Applied the decal from step 3
6. Final clear coats on top of the entire playfield
7. Mylar "cushion" strip applied to the impact zone to hopefully ward off future damage
It's a long process.

This is an excellent suggestion. May I offer a "down and dirty" alternative. The spot in question is barely noticeable when the machine is set up for playing. If it's not a "showpiece" or restored machine, I'd clean the area up as best you can, touch up said area with paints, markers, etc just to hide the bare wood. Clear it, and cover with mylar. It it the best way? Hell no. Is it suitable for a players machine to halt further damage? Yup. It's just a matter of how much time and effort you want to put into it.

#9137 81 days ago
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

This is an excellent suggestion. May I offer a "down and dirty" alternative. The spot in question is barely noticeable when the machine is set up for playing. If it's not a "showpiece" or restored machine, I'd clean the area up as best you can, touch up said area with paints, markers, etc just to hide the bare wood. Clear it, and cover with mylar. It it the best way? Hell no. Is it suitable for a players machine to halt further damage? Yup. It's just a matter of how much time and effort you want to put into it.

This is how I would approach it also. You don't really have to mylar it, just some clear over the fix.

#9138 81 days ago
Quoted from Jwf_pinball:

How would you guys go about filling in this common divot where the ball launches?

Covered it in a playfield protector and ignored the hell out of it.

#9139 81 days ago

Wow, thanks for the great advice guys.
This is a permanent stay and a players condition that'll be in my cellar till I'm gone. I'm leaning much more towards the 'down and dirty' method as it's not a visible area like was said.
Clearcoating sounds daunting, I'm much more open to trying to contain it to that corner.
Do you mean clear in a can and spray a ton of layers until it's flush?
I'm in the middle of tearing down the whole top side so I'd like to know what to order soon.

#9140 81 days ago
Quoted from Jwf_pinball:

Wow, thanks for the great advice guys.
...Clearcoating sounds daunting, I'm much more open to trying to contain it to that corner.
Do you mean clear in a can and spray a ton of layers until it's flush?

The clear I mentioned is an automotive 2-part catalyzed clearcoat, and it does take some knowledge and experience to do it right.

To fill in divots, it can take 4-5 applications. A very small amount of the proper viscosity is mixed up and dribbled onto the area of concern of the prepped playfield. When it cures, it is block-sanded down and the process repeated until the entire area is flat and smooth.

The same technique is used to level dished inserts.

#9141 81 days ago
Quoted from Jwf_pinball:

Wow, thanks for the great advice guys.
This is a permanent stay and a players condition that'll be in my cellar till I'm gone. I'm leaning much more towards the 'down and dirty' method as it's not a visible area like was said.
Clearcoating sounds daunting, I'm much more open to trying to contain it to that corner.
Do you mean clear in a can and spray a ton of layers until it's flush?
I'm in the middle of tearing down the whole top side so I'd like to know what to order soon.

Down and dirty method would be some carefully brushed on clear. Maybe a small careful sanding once cured. And I'd definitely put a piece of mylar down once done. I just did a playfield swap on mine, and I put a large strip of mylar down in that whole area.

#9142 81 days ago

Awesome, thanks everyone. I'll have to post in here when I'm closer to ready for this.

#9143 81 days ago
Quoted from Bohm:

I've had mine for 6 months, still battling the "Ground Short Row 1 is Stuck Closed" which includes most of the errors in your post but I'm kind of unmotivated because it will play fine once you cycle through the error messages and I've got a T2 that's eating up most of my time. I found the notes on this thread helpful: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bsd-repaired-here-are-my-repair-notes

Sounds like replacing the 10 opto board will take care of it

#9144 80 days ago

Hi Everyone. I picked up a BSD at Allentown with a few problems, so I'm working my way through the list.

The coil for the right gate is on all of time and immediately starts cooking the coil. Any ideas? As I look at this coil in the manual, I see it's driven/wired through the Fliptronics board, which is a bit odd.

Thanks.

#9145 80 days ago

Bad transistor.

LTG : )

#9146 80 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Bad transistor.
LTG : )

I figured that would be the answer. Looks like Q5 on the Fliptronic board (TIP102). I'll go down that path...

Thanks!

#9147 80 days ago

Yesterday was World Dracula Day! Part of my prop collection are these shadow puppets. They are screen-used props from the movie Bram Stoker’s Dracula used in battle scenes. The one on the left has a moveable arm with sword; the one on the right is stationary and is a topper
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#9148 79 days ago
Quoted from marksf123:

I bought it a few years ago but they are no longer being made. Here is a link to the original post...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bsd-interactive-led-stained-glass-castle-switch-covers-mod-thread

Anyone know why these aren't being made anymore? I am certain if a run was done it'd sell - I'd buy them

#9149 79 days ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Anyone know why these aren't being made anymore? I am certain if a run was done it'd sell - I'd buy them

Dracula is hard enough, wouldn't obstructing sight lines to the ball make it even harder?

#9150 79 days ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Anyone know why these aren't being made anymore? I am certain if a run was done it'd sell - I'd buy them

Medisinyl stated that most of his mods are limited. Once he sells so many that’s it. You’d have to ask him how firm that is. I like the mod and would get a set if available.

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