Bristol, TN
Quoted from GoodManners:Aflacjack Would you have pics of this? I can find a depth control but not the roller guide.
Thanks
Here you go. Fantastic bit. Used it to cut the holes, and to trim any overhang once I installed them
(Topic ID: 29878)
Linked Games
Bram Stoker's Dracula
Williams, 1993
Topic Gallery
Quoted from Aflacjack:Here you go. Fantastic bit. Used it to cut the holes, and to trim any overhang once I installed them
https://www.toolstoday.com/v-12109-mr0105.html?glCountry=US&glCurrency=USD&ne_ppc_id=1701009076&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjJWbvs7u7QIVyhOtBh0OOQe9EAQYASABEgIDBvD_BwE
544B73EC-85B9-4C98-93A0-9718A0A0F85D (resized).jpeg5EAEE28A-02BF-4E24-AFE0-AE80325128E7 (resized).jpeg7E894FF7-9398-449E-B03A-2C404A297B62 (resized).jpegQuoted from CoolCatPinball:As far as straight edges are concerned, I was thinking of applying the radcals so that the top and front line up nicely, leaving any excess on the bottom and back. The using painters tape, mask off the edges to be trimmed, and use a straight router bit. Just my initial idea. Any tips there? I do have a Dremel tool for the round holes.
Good plan. If you can have the corners come together pretty flush at the front, you are in good shape. The top of the Radcal on the front is under the lock bar, so no issue. You need to trim the top left and right corner on the front Radcal so the lock bar doesn’t snag the corner…like I did in the pic below on TOTAN.
If you have any overhang on the bottom of the cab on the front or sides (I haven’t had any overhang yet), you’ll want to trim it so it’s level with the cab. Otherwise you’ll snag it anytime you reach under the cab to reposition or move the game. Mirco does a nice job with the sizing. They really don’t overhang much, if at all. Here’s a pic of the front corners on my FT, which came together almost perfectly.
C4D7D1B6-F796-43EE-B6FB-4A03C04991B3 (resized).jpeg5C48E915-FB34-45B8-8CFA-C6B7BE014855 (resized).png8C5F2B0A-0147-4082-A864-F3EF9EA25F3D (resized).png
Ghent
Just picked up a very nice looking BSD. Seller told me the myst lane was not working but the motor was tested and still works.
I tought I would figure it out with help from Pinsiders 
3 switches are in error : 52, 81 & 83. In switch edges nothing happens when i lift the brackets of 81 & 83.
Switch 82 however is reacting when I pass by.
Suggestions or links as I guess the topic must have been discussed many times..?
Quoted from rvermeire:Suggestions
Sounds like optos. This will help :
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Opto_Switches
LTG : )
My bsd I just picked up does a factory reset after power cycle. I replaced the batteries but no different. I'm assuming it's the battery holder possibly? Can anything else cause that? I ordered one of those nvram's to get rid of the batteries but just thought I'd see if there's anything else I should look at while waiting for it
Quoted from LTG:Sounds like optos. This will help :
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Opto_Switches
LTG : )
Thx LTG will give the tests a try ?
Quoted from Leechman:Can anything else cause that?
Go through the check list :
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:Go through the check list :
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets
LTG : )
Hey Lloyd! How are you old friend? Sorry, I might not have worded it quite right but it doesn't do the power reset while playing or anything. Just the factory settings get reset after you shut game off and then back on. Only thing I can find on it is to replace batteries/holder but just figured I'd make sure there's nothing else to check while waiting for the nvram. Thanks Lloyd!
Quoted from Leechman:Only thing I can find on it is to replace batteries/holder
Replace batteries. If it still does the factory reset, then replace the battery holder. Or grab a meter and see if battery power is getting onto the board. The parts that grip the battery ends often break and you lose contact.
Quoted from Leechman:Hey Lloyd! How are you old friend?
Good Phil. A pleasure to run into you again. Hope you and your loved ones have a great Christmas !
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:Replace batteries. If it still does the factory reset, then replace the battery holder. Or grab a meter and see if battery power is getting onto the board. The parts that grip the battery ends often break and you lose contact.
Good Phil. A pleasure to run into you again. Hope you and your loved ones have a great Christmas !
LTG : )
Thanks Lloyd! Appreciate it! Hope you have a great Christmas as well
Quoted from Leechman:My bsd I just picked up does a factory reset after power cycle. I replaced the batteries but no different. I'm assuming it's the battery holder possibly? Can anything else cause that? I ordered one of those nvram's to get rid of the batteries but just thought I'd see if there's anything else I should look at while waiting for it
Also could be bad IDC connectors. Chris Hibler addresses this in the video I posted here on page 173, Post #8635
Re pin female side of J101 and J114. It's best to get rid of the IDC connectors and get a crimp tool and install Molex connectors with Trifurcon crimps.
Canberra
Quoted from LTG:Sounds like optos. This will help :
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Opto_Switches
LTG : )
Weren't the optos. 20V was out of business, had to replace BR4. Now back in Myst lane business !!
Just have a last issue with my drop target not willing to stay up. It seems part number 03-8034 is missing (while the seller told me it always worked at his place )... Does somebody have the exact dimensions so I can make one on my 3D printer or maybe someone already has an stl file of it?
target stop 1 (resized).JPGI fell in love with this game right away after playing it at a friend's house. I asked in a seller's forum if anyone was selling Dracula, but all I heard was crickets.
I even went as far as to ask a few Pinsiders in my area who had the game in their collection if they were willing to sell it and everyone said no(rightfully so).
While on the hunt for a total different game that I told the seller I was interested in purchasing, I came across this Dracula in his collection, which I was instantly drawn to.
I played Dracula and knew right away, this was the game for me.
I loaded Dracula up last night bought it home and now it Is mine Forever!!
C4A85D86-9586-4072-9221-1E89EF774668 (resized).jpegGot the metal parts back from powder coat yesterday and reassembled the coin door. The color looks almost black in low light, but when the light hits it, it's full of blue and purple metallic flake. I know, to each their own, but I think it looks SEXY!!
20211215_182233 (resized).jpg20211215_181907 (resized).jpg20211215_181948 (resized).jpg
Veldhoven
I am a proud owner of a player's condition BSD!
I have acquired this game, several weeks ago and resolved and tweaked several issues in the meanwhile. Want to have it all 100% up and running before doing a full shop job.
One issue that I do not understand is that Myst multiball is working 100%, but now and then an error message pops up indicating a "Left magnet error" . Running Magnet diagnostics using test menu also does not reveal any specific issue though ... After this test has been run, the credit dot disappears.
What could cause this behavior? How to resolve?
Thanks for any guidance, Hans
Quoted from Hans_Saris:What could cause this behavior? How to resolve?
Left limit switch under the playfield needs adjusting or is flaky and needs replacing.
LTG : )
Quoted from Hans_Saris:Thanks a lot Lloyd, believe I should take a closer look at switch #81 then? Kindest regards, Hans
[quoted image]
Yes, there is a switch (I think 81 according to your schematic) that the magnet activates when it is all the way to the left. If this switch doesn't activate, you get the problem you described. My machine did it as well. My switch just needed adjusting. It has lots of room to adjust.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:Yes, there is a switch (I think 81 according to your schematic) that the magnet activates when it is all the way to the left. If this switch doesn't activate, you get the problem you described. My machine did it as well. My switch just needed adjusting. It has lots of room to adjust.
Thanks a lot Scribbles!
1 week later
Quoted from paulie484:Bugs my ocd that the target lamps are the only ones on the board without any text ???!!
Courtesy of the daughters new Cricut sticker thingy.....not sure how long they'll last !
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
My wife makes target decals for me sometimes too. I can’t find the ideal art for BSD, but she made me these to help identify the castle lock targets.
6986BFD1-EA52-42DC-8646-557EDDC99868 (resized).jpegD8B6B2E6-459F-48E1-BDF2-6730EE9B6710 (resized).jpegQuoted from codered9394:Can someone get me a photo of the wiring in the shooter lane switch. I need the orientation of the diode if possible. Thanks
[quoted image]
Look at any micro switch. They're all wired the same.
Quoted from Pinkitten:My wife makes target decals for me sometimes too. I can’t find the ideal art for BSD, but she made me these to help identify the castle lock targets.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Neat but "lite" should be "light" - "lite" refers to beer, "light" refers to illumination.
Quoted from roffels:Neat but "lite" should be "light"
Eh, not in pinball. The word “lite” is used often:
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from Bryan_Kelly:Look at any micro switch. They're all wired the same
I thought the same thing but when I wire it the same as the others I get a error. Not sure what's going on yet. Thanks
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:PDI has these that are pretty nice
[quoted image]
I have those on mine!
Quoted from mbaumle:Eh, not in pinball. The word “lite” is used often:
[quoted image][quoted image]
Guess pinball designers have beer on the brain 
Quoted from codered9394:I thought the same thing but when I wire it the same as the others I get a error.
What does the error say ?
All should be the same. Switch body is marked. White wire and black end of diode to C, green wire to NO, silver band end of diode goes to NC.
Check the markings on the switch body, To be sure the switch you have isn't different with the C, NO, NC.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:All should be the same. Switch body is marked. White wire and black end of diode to C, green wire to NO, silver band end of diode goes to NC.
This was what I was looking for. I'll make sure I have it wired this way and see where I'm at.Thanks for the info
Help with the multi-ball issues.
I’ll explain this the best way I know-how.
When I go into multi-ball mode, the game continues to load balls into the shooter lane and launches them into play continuously even if I drain. (basically multi ball doesn't end and won't time out).
My mist multi ball works as intended (carries ball across playfield) about 10% of the time.
Usually, when I go into mist multiball the balls just come down from the left lane and where ever else they are released from. 90% the ball doesn't travel across the playfeild.
Quoted from McDoom:Help with the multi-ball issues.
I’ll explain this the best way I know-how.
When I go into multi-ball mode, the game continues to load balls into the shooter lane and launches them into play continuously even if I drain. (basically multi ball doesn't end and won't time out).
My mist multi ball works as intended (carries ball across playfield) about 10% of the time.
Usually, when I go into mist multiball the balls just come down from the left lane and where ever else they are released from. 90% the ball doesn't travel across the playfeild.
First, does this behavior happen only on mist multiball? What about castle or coffin multiball?
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:First, does this behavior happen only on mist multiball? What about castle or coffin multiball?
It happens on all multi-balls including mist
Quoted from McDoom:It happens on all multi-balls including mist
I'd start by running a test on the mist multiball from the menu. See if the game will perform the test correctly and note any errors. I just have a suspicion it's related to mist optics or switches. Not sure why, but thats where I'd start
Quoted from Gorgar666:It’s not counting balls correctly, Opto. Ball Through most likely.
This right here.
Possibly in combination with shooter lane switch.
Switch edge test should tell you pretty quickly what it is. Good luck!
Quoted from Gorgar666:It’s not counting balls correctly, Opto. Ball Through most likely.
Quoted from Grandnational007:This right here.
Possibly in combination with shooter lane switch.
Switch edge test should tell you pretty quickly what it is. Good luck!
I agree it's not counting balls correctly. I'm wondering if the game is not sensing the captive ball in the mist lane.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:I agree it's not counting balls correctly. I'm wondering if the game is not sensing the captive ball in the mist lane.
All the options discussed are possibilities that come to mind for me as well. This game relies on quite a few opto switches working just right to place the balls correctly.
Quoted from McDoom:My mist multi ball works as intended (carries ball across playfield) about 10% of the time.
Usually, when I go into mist multiball the balls just come down from the left lane and where ever else they are released from. 90% the ball doesn't travel across the playfeild.
Just read this part...
Sounds like it's time to replace your mist receiver and emitter optos, clean the coils for the two mist gates (or adjust them to make sure they capture, hold, and release a ball correctly, and re-cap and replace the 10 mh inductor on the 24 opto board. It's not as bad as it sounds, and is about $10 in parts.
Or you can replace the 24 board with a homepin one ($100), and replace the three mist optos.
Quoted from McDoom:Help with the multi-ball issues.
I’ll explain this the best way I know-how.
When I go into multi-ball mode, the game continues to load balls into the shooter lane and launches them into play continuously even if I drain. (basically multi ball doesn't end and won't time out).
My mist multi ball works as intended (carries ball across playfield) about 10% of the time.
Usually, when I go into mist multiball the balls just come down from the left lane and where ever else they are released from. 90% the ball doesn't travel across the playfeild.
Easiest thing to check - How many Balls are installed in your game - this can happen if you have one (or more) too many.
Quoted from Grandnational007:Just read this part...
Sounds like it's time to replace your mist receiver and emitter optos, clean the coils for the two mist gates (or adjust them to make sure they capture, hold, and release a ball correctly, and re-cap and replace the 10 mh inductor on the 24 opto board. It's not as bad as it sounds, and is about $10 in parts.
Or you can replace the 24 board with a homepin one ($100), and replace the three mist optos.
By any chance would you have a link to the parts needed? (24 board home pin etc.)
Thanks in advance
Ottawa, ON
Quoted from McDoom:By any chance would you have a link to the parts needed? (24 board home pin etc.)
Thanks in advance
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bram-stokers-dracula-clubmembers-only/page/171#post-6532949
Check octopart if mouser is out of stock
Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
Reply
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!
Donate to PinsideGreat to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
