(Topic ID: 29878)

Bram Stokers Dracula Club....Welcome to the Carpathians

By shacklersrevenge

9 years ago


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There are 8,824 posts in this topic. You are on page 174 of 177.
#8651 81 days ago
Quoted from petebest:

Happy to have joined the BSD club. Such a clean game, virtually no PF wear. Bought it locally, (less than 2 min from my house!) from Jim McCune. Some of you may know him.

Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

I hope Jim is doing well!

Next time you see him, tell him I said hi.

Same here. I miss Jim. Good dude!

#8652 81 days ago

Pretty pumped to finally be part of the club! Well, almost. It's getting shipped soon anyway!

Does anyone know if you can still get the Dracula coffin upgrade anywhere? I seen it in a pinside shop but says shop is temporarily closed. Or if there's other options out there somewhere?

Appreciate any info

#8653 81 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

Ya, I saw that video, but I didn't know if BSD panel was actually paint like that panel was? If so, great!

Yep, BSD and all Gottlieb system 3 games that have red in from of the DMD is a red painted window on that speaker panel plastic.

#8654 80 days ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Yep, BSD and all Gottlieb system 3 games that have red in from of the DMD is a red painted window on that speaker panel plastic.

Awesome!!
Thank You!!

#8655 80 days ago
Quoted from paulie484:

Another newbie question
is this a 12v led strip or 6v ?
Cheers
[quoted image]

Glad to see that still being helpful. Sorry I missed the specifics.

#8656 80 days ago
Quoted from paulie484:

Random question...are there any current euro based BSD members who have used PU-parts.com for supplies ?
Are these guys good for service ?
I'm looking at getting some colored screws but these guys wont ship to Oz (can get the nuts here but not the longer screws they have)
So they have suggested using a forward posting service in Germany but that service is coming out waaaaaay over the top by the time it's posted all the way down under
...thinking if there's anyone willing to pass this parcel on I'll gladly pay them for the service (literally about 30 nuts/screws so should be a smallish parcel - no legs or lockdown bars !! ) and lucky if i'll crack the 30euro in value so minimal risk if it all goes pear shaped !
Cheers
[quoted image][quoted image]

Hi Paulie,

I can help you out in this matter since I'm located in Germany. Just shoot me a PM.

#8657 80 days ago

Time to spend some money?

1 week later
#8658 70 days ago

I ran across the glass paint that I used to restore the red lettering on the sides of the cabinet.

Pebeo Vitrail, crimson

20211113_101611 (resized).jpg
#8659 64 days ago

All right guys and gals, since my BSD already has a color DMD, and Pinsound board, I have decided to do a full teardown and restoration on it over the winter. This will be my 3rd machine to restore, and I find it quite fun. I already placed an order for a new playfield, rad cals, and a mirrored backglass. I'll probably grab a new plastic set as well. However, I can't seem to find a source for new ramps. Anyone have any ideas? Also, what other items are commonly worn out I should be looking for? Thanks!!

#8660 64 days ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

All right guys and gals, since my BSD already has a color DMD, and Pinsound board, I have decided to do a full teardown and restoration on it over the winter. This will be my 3rd machine to restore, and I find it quite fun. I already placed an order for a new playfield, rad cals, and a mirrored backglass. I'll probably grab a new plastic set as well. However, I can't seem to find a source for new ramps. Anyone have any ideas? Also, what other items are commonly worn out I should be looking for? Thanks!!

I think there was a ramp manufacturer looking at making the ramps. I got a set from a pinsider who made them, not sure if he has any more.

I have the mirrored backglass, it looks great.

I've fully restored two (both with RadCals). One I went so far as to completely rewire the playfield to remove all the hacks. I bought this set for all of the external hardare: https://virtuapin.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9&products_id=9&zenid=hqlm75i5h4vgaufhj9qnsbprm0

Be warned that the RadCals are a double-edged sword. They look nice but your cabinet better not have rounded over corners/edges, or the RadCals with hang over. They go right to the edge of the cabinet.

Getting a set of WPC replacement stickers is nice too. Got mine from flashinstinct

Rebuilding the pop bumpers and flippers is a good idea. Depending on the state of your wireforms you might want to powder coat those. Getting the village/castle painted is a nice upgrade.

I avoided the staple-down lamp sockets for the pop bumpers on the second restore I did since it's such a pain if you ever want to remove the bumpers.

https://modfatherpinball.com/products/bsd-custom-painted-village-plastics?_pos=11&_sid=ad060e955&_ss=r

I really recommend the repainted village/castle, they look awesome and a very reasonable price.

I also replaced most of the tarnished / worn fasteners.

I referred to @HEP BSD restores and albums to see how certain things went back together and just to oogle and get inspired.

#8661 64 days ago

I'm doing NBA right, then Corvette, then the coffin cover for EATPM, then Dracula.

#8662 64 days ago
Quoted from dr_nybble:I think there was a ramp manufacturer looking at making the ramps. I got a set from a pinsider who made them, not sure if he has any more.
I have the mirrored backglass, it looks great.
I've fully restored two (both with RadCals). One I went so far as to completely rewire the playfield to remove all the hacks. I bought this set for all of the external hardare: https://virtuapin.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9&products_id=9&zenid=hqlm75i5h4vgaufhj9qnsbprm0
Be warned that the RadCals are a double-edged sword. They look nice but your cabinet better not have rounded over corners/edges, or the RadCals with hang over. They go right to the edge of the cabinet.
Getting a set of WPC replacement stickers is nice too. Got mine from flashinstinct
Rebuilding the pop bumpers and flippers is a good idea. Depending on the state of your wireforms you might want to powder coat those. Getting the village/castle painted is a nice upgrade.
I avoided the staple-down lamp sockets for the pop bumpers on the second restore I did since it's such a pain if you ever want to remove the bumpers.
https://modfatherpinball.com/products/bsd-custom-painted-village-plastics?_pos=11&_sid=ad060e955&_ss=r
I really recommend the repainted village/castle, they look awesome and a very reasonable price.
I also replaced most of the tarnished / worn fasteners.
I referred to @HEP BSD restores and albums to see how certain things went back together and just to oogle and get inspired.

All excellent information! Thank you. I've never worked with Rad Cals, so, fingers crossed. Lucky me, a previous owner already had all the village plastics painted, and added the decorative switch cover set. That's part of the reason it's such a shame the cab and playfield need attention. I'll get her fixed up!

Quoted from lrosent345:

I'm doing NBA right, then Corvette, then the coffin cover for EATPM, then Dracula.

Any idea on an estimated time frame? I've used your ramps on both a Comet, and Elvira ATPM. Great product!

#8663 64 days ago
Quoted from dr_nybble:

Be warned that the RadCals are a double-edged sword. They look nice but your cabinet better not have rounded over corners/edges, or the RadCals with hang over. They go right to the edge of the cabinet.

I was wondering if you could just cut the Radcals edges off so you can install them like normal cabinet decals? Then just spray paint the corners black before installing decals.

#8664 64 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

I was wondering if you could just cut the Radcals edges off so you can install them like normal cabinet decals? Then just spray paint the corners black before installing decals.

I trimmed my White Water Radcals with a dremel bit with a roller guide. Turned out great

#8665 63 days ago

Hi am on with a full refurb, trying to keep ahead of things with materials.
Got my new playfield, my decals, armour now back and powder coated, mirrored back glass.
Need a set ramps ( as I know a few do on here ) will wait for star ship to do a set.
What’s people’s thoughts on the lit speaker
panels are they worth it or am I better off just getting a standard???
Also I am nearly ready to tackle my playfield swop please could some one put me onto a good website for tips.
Thankyou Simon

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#8666 63 days ago

For my playfield swap I cut off all micro switches so I could wash the harness. They all get 0.63” molex connectors.

Then I reattached each harness separately, first GI, then controlled lamps, then switches and finally coils.

For the assemblies I keep each in a separate freezer bag with all its hardware. I replaced most worn hardware and cleaned everything up.

It depends how far you want to go!

#8667 63 days ago
Quoted from Aflacjack:

I trimmed my White Water Radcals with a dremel bit with a roller guide. Turned out great

Ya, it seems like a lot of unnecessary work and hassle to have squared up corners. Not normal for pinball decals and seems it would be very susceptible to damage! A sharp plastic corner vs a blunt wooded corner.

#8668 63 days ago

Can someone remind me what causes this insert to light up?

I just replaced some switches in my game, switches seem to be working fine, but this lamp is locked on.

dracula insert (resized).png
#8669 63 days ago

Pretty sure that is a GI lamp; it does not have a number on the lamp location chart on page 2-44 of the manual.

#8670 63 days ago
Quoted from dr_nybble:

Pretty sure that is a GI lamp; it does not have a number on the lamp location chart on page 2-44 of the manual.

Thanks, yeah. Just checked some videos and all appears normal. Maybe I'm losing my mind, maybe that lamp wasn't working before and just started? Glad I don't have to chase down a problem.

1 week later
#8671 53 days ago

Recently picked up a player's condition BSD and joined the club! Had some issues with Myst multiball, but was able to resolve this by resoldering a component that came loose from 24 inch opto board.

Played the game for some time now and it plays as it should. I have noticed a loose black wire though between left flipper coil and metal frame, used for pulling playfield. I cannot see an obvious place where it should go ... and game plays as it should. Does anyone know where to attach this wire or confirm is redundant maybe(?) Or otherwise maybe post a picture of same area of your BSD?
Thanks, Hans

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#8672 53 days ago

Question about a strange problem on BSD.
A couple times the game has given one of the skill shot awards before even launching the ball. Should I be checking the ball launch mech or something in the skill shot section?
Anybody ever see this?
TIA

#8673 53 days ago

Check the skill shot drop target spring and switch; also the drop target itself, as the little nub that holds it above the playfield could be worn, causing even a small amount of vibration to trip it.

Ball launch is independent of skill shot.

#8674 53 days ago
Quoted from Hans_Saris:

Recently picked up a player's condition BSD and joined the club! Had some issues with Myst multiball, but was able to resolve this by resoldering a component that came loose from 24 inch opto board.
Played the game for some time now and it plays as it should. I have noticed a loose black wire though between left flipper coil and metal frame, used for pulling playfield. I cannot see an obvious place where it should go ... and game plays as it should. Does anyone know where to attach this wire or confirm is redundant maybe(?) Or otherwise maybe post a picture of same area of your BSD?
Thanks, Hans
[quoted image][quoted image]

J1-1

pasted_image (resized).png

#8675 53 days ago
Quoted from Grandnational007:

Check the skill shot drop target spring and switch; also the drop target itself, as the little nub that holds it above the playfield could be worn, causing even a small amount of vibration to trip it.
Ball launch is independent of skill shot.

Thanks for the quick reply, I hope to get to it this weekend.

#8676 53 days ago
Quoted from Hans_Saris:

Recently picked up a player's condition BSD and joined the club! Had some issues with Myst multiball, but was able to resolve this by resoldering a component that came loose from 24 inch opto board.
Played the game for some time now and it plays as it should. I have noticed a loose black wire though between left flipper coil and metal frame, used for pulling playfield. I cannot see an obvious place where it should go ... and game plays as it should. Does anyone know where to attach this wire or confirm is redundant maybe(?) Or otherwise maybe post a picture of same area of your BSD?
Thanks, Hans
[quoted image][quoted image]

What are the colors/stripe color of the wire?

#8677 53 days ago
Quoted from poppapin:

Thanks for the quick reply, I hope to get to it this weekend.

It looks like dr_nybble also provided you the answer. Based upon your photo and the diagram provided by dr_nybble it looks like your loose black wire should go to J1-1 of the High Current Driver Assembly board which is the Ground from the Power Driver Board (J103-1).

Gord

#8678 53 days ago

Wow- talk about good timing. My Drac has had problems for the past twenty years with blowing diodes on the flipper coils. The symptom is when both flippers flip, the game resets. I did the usual, replaced the diodes, and this time the usual repair did work, but I decided to dig a little deeper. While checking my voltages on the driver board, I happened to glance at J103, and it was off one pin. So, the wire that goes from the high current driver board to the power driver board was open.

I don’t know how the machine has worked so well- outside of diodes going every few years, there have been no other problems.

So, I guess I’ll put J103 on correctly, power up, and see what happens. If it blows up, then maybe the previous owner knew something I don’t. (Yet)

Gord - you saved me a lot of time by telling Hans where that wire went. Thanks

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#8679 52 days ago

Thanks guys!

#8680 51 days ago

Anyone know what would cause a "Magnet Fault" in the magnet test, before the test even started? Sometimes I'd get the error just because the ball never made it to the left pocket after multiple games, but this would always clear by running the test and exiting.

I was replacing some star posts, figured I'd replace the left pocket opto while I was at it. Everything appears to work. Optos seem to be registering correctly, but I can't get that "Magnet Fault" in the test to clear.

#8681 48 days ago

Great mod. 5 min install.

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#8682 48 days ago
Quoted from roffels:

Anyone know what would cause a "Magnet Fault" in the magnet test, before the test even started?

Is the magnet working while playing? May be an intermittent break in the wiring harness to the magnet. It's constantly moving back and forth, so not uncommon. Two wires. Test ohms reading at the start of the harness. Should be 3 ohms of more. If open, you have a break.

#8683 45 days ago

My Dracula is going to be out of action for a while. Today I started the cabinet tear down for new decals and a straighten and fill. I see lots of sanding in my future

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#8684 45 days ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

My Dracula is going to be out of action for a while. Today I started the cabinet tear down for new decals and a straighten and fill. I see lots of sanding in my future
[quoted image][quoted image]

Go radcals they look awesome when installed!

#8685 45 days ago

Hey all, I've been running into some issues with BSD lately.

In my test, I'm getting a s73 error on the coffin opto. I'm also running into issues with the magnet test. When the ball runs to the right gate, the gate opens but the ball drains. I get a power error there. If I run a game, the mist ball will go into the right gate, but open and drain on launching a ball. It'll do this at the start of every ball.

I was replacing the flippers when this went down... Thinking I might have loosened something or bent a wire. Any ideas where to start?

20211208_165424.jpg
#8686 45 days ago
Quoted from Treelk:

Any ideas where to start?

Keep to one thread and not across three. Otherwise you'll get a variety of answers that won't help because they don't know the whole story.

LTG : )

#8687 45 days ago

New Mirco playfield, RadCals, armor, Comet LEDs, plastics, Mirrored Backglass, Titan rubbers, Carlton Violet powder coat all in tha house!! Already scored a pinsound board and color DMD. What on earth could pimp cat Scribbles be up to???

#8688 44 days ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

New Mirco playfield, RadCals, armor, Comet LEDs, plastics, Mirrored Backglass, Titan rubbers, Carlton Violet powder coat all in tha house!! Already scored a pinsound board and color DMD. What on earth could pimp cat Scribbles be up to???

Glam Stoker’s Dracula!

#8689 44 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Glam Stoker’s Dracula!

Pin Kitten knows! Hey, how did your RadCal installs go on your other machines? Mine look a hair large like I'm going to have to trim them once installed. Did you make any cut outs around where the legs go or no? On decals, I usually use an exacto knife and cut away enough decal so they'll never touch the legs and wrinkle. How did you handle that?

#8690 44 days ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

My Dracula is going to be out of action for a while. Today I started the cabinet tear down for new decals and a straighten and fill. I see lots of sanding in my future
[quoted image][quoted image]

I just went through that. Mine is awaiting the final decal (seller sent me two right side cabinet decals by mistake). Applying decals is so nerve-wracking for me…and I never seem to get them perfect.

I’m getting some powder coating done, but decided to play around with colored epoxy on the hinges and coin door. I’m pleased with how they’ve turned out.

1754635A-5C68-4B8F-82E1-0BB99C4C183D (resized).jpegC158A5A4-6C2E-417D-A19A-26FC6B43A575 (resized).jpegEEACA991-7241-46BD-BE23-FB3AFEADF755 (resized).jpeg
#8691 44 days ago
Quoted from Aflacjack:

I trimmed my White Water Radcals with a dremel bit with a roller guide. Turned out great

Aflacjack Would you have pics of this? I can find a depth control but not the roller guide.
Thanks

#8692 44 days ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

New Mirco playfield, RadCals, armor, Comet LEDs, plastics, Mirrored Backglass, Titan rubbers, Carlton Violet powder coat all in tha house!! Already scored a pinsound board and color DMD. What on earth could pimp cat Scribbles be up to???

You're definitely passionate!

#8693 44 days ago
Quoted from curban:

decided to play around with colored epoxy on the hinges and coin door. I’m pleased with how they’ve turned out. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That's BadAss!!

#8694 44 days ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

how did your RadCal installs go on your other machines?

Good! I’ve now done Radcals on Fish Tales, TOTAN and am finishing CV. I will do TAF next. Each time I’ve learned something and had a slightly better result. In my experience, Radcals aren’t a perfect fit on every side (I can send some pics of the edges) and require some tolerance and possibly a slight trim. For the legs, Radcals are much more durable and won’t get wrinkled or altered from the leg pressure. But, you must install those metal leg protectors that are common on new pins now, with the tiny screws to hold them in place. That builds up the corner just enough to protect the Radcal from leg damage. I think Mantis and Pinball Life have them, as you probably know. If you prefer a perfect edge and original look, you probably want decals, although I feel decals are a bit harder to apply, and really require an empty cabinet to work with. Radcals are more durable and result in a glossy finish, and are a little easier to apply. They are still a lot of work to do them right, and you’ll need a dremel to create the bolt holes and cut out the shooter rod assembly hole. There may be other ways to do it, but a dremel worked best for me. Plus, you don’t need to lay the cab on its side to apply Radcals. Feel free to message me if I can be of any help to anyone.

#8695 44 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Good! I’ve now done Radcals on Fish Tales, TOTAN and am finishing CV. I will do TAF next. Each time I’ve learned something and had a slightly better result. In my experience, Radcals aren’t a perfect fit on every side (I can send some pics of the edges) and require some tolerance and possibly a slight trim. For the legs, Radcals are much more durable and won’t get wrinkled or altered from the leg pressure. But, you must install those metal leg protectors that are common on new pins now, with the tiny screws to hold them in place. That builds up the corner just enough to protect the Radcal from leg damage. I think Mantis and Pinball Life have them, as you probably know. If you prefer a perfect edge and original look, you probably want decals, although I feel decals are a bit harder to apply, and really require an empty cabinet to work with. Radcals are more durable and result in a glossy finish, and are a little easier to apply. They are still a lot of work to do them right, and you’ll need a dremel to create the bolt holes and cut out the shooter rod assembly hole. There may be other ways to do it, but a dremel worked best for me. Plus, you don’t need to lay the cab on its side to apply Radcals. Feel free to message me if I can be of any help to anyone.

As far as straight edges are concerned, I was thinking of applying the radcals so that the top and front line up nicely, leaving any excess on the bottom and back. The using painters tape, mask off the edges to be trimmed, and use a straight router bit. Just my initial idea. Any tips there? I do have a Dremel tool for the round holes.

#8696 44 days ago

Browsing back through the last few pages, it appears there are a number of us restoring BSD right now! Definitely a labor of love since we'll probably have more in the machine than it's worth when we're done But, it's worth it. It's such a fast, fun, brutal game.

#8697 44 days ago
Quoted from roffels:

Thanks, yeah. Just checked some videos and all appears normal. Maybe I'm losing my mind, maybe that lamp wasn't working before and just started? Glad I don't have to chase down a problem.

A nice little/cheap mod is to swap that bulb with a slow color change bulb. It's subtle but noticeable, and it makes the center of the moon change colors differently than the outside edge of the moon.

#8698 44 days ago

Almost finished - new playfield in - just have some wiring bugs to figure out. I have partial failure on castle optos and one pop bumper is dead. Also having some pinsound challenges and one of our cats marked my mirrored backglass and caused it to bubble (wtf) - and yes I need to straighten out the back housing for the coffin

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#8699 44 days ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

As far as straight edges are concerned, I was thinking of applying the radcals so that the top and front line up nicely, leaving any excess on the bottom and back. The using painters tape, mask off the edges to be trimmed, and use a straight router bit. Just my initial idea. Any tips there? I do have a Dremel tool for the round holes.

That is what I did - I ended up with one radcal that had more material around the leg bracket so I made sure I liked the front and did the trimming in the back. I used a dremel on the holes and used a new blade in my knife to trim the edges

#8700 44 days ago
Quoted from ralphwiggum:

A nice little/cheap mod is to swap that bulb with a slow color change bulb. It's subtle but noticeable, and it makes the center of the moon change colors differently than the outside edge of the moon.

what a great idea !! I've got a color changing bulb in the Mystery lamp which works well as a eye catcher to aim at ! will def do this mod too !

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