(Topic ID: 29878)

Bram Stokers Dracula Club....Welcome to the Carpathians

By shacklersrevenge

9 years ago


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  • 9,328 posts
  • 723 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 hours ago by GRB1959
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Topic index (key posts)

34 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 9,328 posts in this topic. You are on page 171 of 187.
#8501 10 months ago

That really sounds like a manufacturing defect. Comet has always done me right. Maybe contact Ryan and see what's up, even if it's just to let him know.

#8502 10 months ago
Quoted from Grandnational007:

That really sounds like a manufacturing defect. Comet has always done me right. Maybe contact Ryan and see what's up, even if it's just to let him know.

I wonder if I have different sockets than you do? It's hard to be certain from your pic, but they do look to be the same.

Added 10 months ago:

Discovered the problem!
It is out of spec bulbs. Notice the thicker plastic wedge base. See post #8556 on page 172 in this thread for a picture.

#8504 10 months ago

Another question

Which of these coin doors is the original? I'm guessing the one without the bill acceptor slot.
3e05fb817426d371f36fa57f756e31814c6799c6 (resized).jpg9f95dc37930fda4f6110ad175637fdbda01d1269 (resized).jpg

#8505 10 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

Another question
//<![CDATA[
window.__mirage2 = {petok:"0072fd77baaef07a64975b7631c1a40b6cf052ae-1632846592-1800"};
//]]>

Which of these coin doors in the original? I'm guessing the one without the bill acceptor slot.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Yes, top is original

#8506 10 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

Another question
Which of these coin doors in the original? I'm guessing the one without the bill acceptor slot.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Mine looks like your second photo.

#8507 10 months ago

The one with the dba is "domestic market", the one with the the three vertical stampings is "foreign market".

So if your example was a US game, then it should have the one with the dba, and if it was an export/re-import, it would have the one with the three stamps.

#8508 10 months ago
Quoted from Grandnational007:

The one with the dba is "domestic market", the one with the the three vertical stampings is "foreign market".
So if your example was a US game, then it should have the one with the dba, and if it was an export/re-import, it would have the one with the three stamps.

Thanks!
I have the Domestic one.

#8509 10 months ago
Quoted from Grandnational007:

The one with the dba is "domestic market", the one with the the three vertical stampings is "foreign market".
So if your example was a US game, then it should have the one with the dba, and if it was an export/re-import, it would have the one with the three stamps.

Interesting, I just learned something new. Regardless, the coin slots on the bottom one are crooked as Hell and its driving me insane just looking at it!!!

#8510 10 months ago
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

Interesting, I just learned something new. Regardless, the coin slots on the bottom one are crooked as Hell and its driving me insane just looking at it!!!

You can adjust those. If the door is dented in there, you'll have to pound out the dent first.

#8511 10 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

Another question
//<![CDATA[
window.__mirage2 = {petok:"721f22d8ee71e52b3d416f26caab95ad21d5ea95-1632853052-1800"};
//]]>

The bottom picture .

Which of these coin doors is the original? I'm guessing the one without the bill acceptor slot.
[quoted image][quoted image]

#8512 10 months ago

FYI.
if you plan to airbrush your faded red on cab decals, this is actually the better paint to use as it doesn't require heat setting to develop a good finish. A 2oz bottle will be plenty. Get a 2oz bottle of black for touch up as well.

Createx Wicked colors.

https://spraygunner.com/wicked-red-w005/?sku=W005-02&setCurrencyId=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0veyrp-p8wIVanxvBB00bg3HEAQYBiABEgKrjPD_BwE

#8513 10 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

FYI.
if you plan to airbrush your faded red on cab decals, this is actually the better paint to use as it doesn't require heat setting. A 2oz bottle will be plenty. Get a 2oz bottle of black for touch up as well.
Createx Wicked colors.
https://spraygunner.com/wicked-red-w005/?sku=W005-02&setCurrencyId=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0veyrp-p8wIVanxvBB00bg3HEAQYBiABEgKrjPD_BwE

Why waste your time ?
Radcal that bitch!
Quick easy and awesome !

#8514 10 months ago
Quoted from freddy:

Why waste your time ?
Radcal that bitch!
Quick easy and awesome !

Decals in excellent shape and it's less work actually! Already spent enough on this table with all the mods and Pinsound system.
See my posts #8461-8463

#8515 10 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

FYI.
if you plan to airbrush your faded red on cab decals, this is actually the better paint to use as it doesn't require heat setting to develop a good finish. A 2oz bottle will be plenty. Get a 2oz bottle of black for touch up as well.
Createx Wicked colors.
https://spraygunner.com/wicked-red-w005/?sku=W005-02&setCurrencyId=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0veyrp-p8wIVanxvBB00bg3HEAQYBiABEgKrjPD_BwE

Can you share photos of your results?

#8516 10 months ago
Quoted from roffels:

Can you share photos of your results?

See my posts #8461-8463 previous page

#8517 10 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

See my posts #8461-8463 previous page

Looks good! Not sure why that other person downvoted you, I certainly can't blame you for spending a few bucks on paint vs stripping the cabinet and dumping $400 into decals.

I might have to try this.

#8518 10 months ago
Quoted from freddy:

Why waste your time ?
Radcal that bitch!
Quick easy and awesome !

I may radcal mine this winter. I've never used them before, but they appear to be an incredible product. Does anyone know of a source for them in the U.S. ?

#8519 10 months ago
Quoted from roffels:

Looks good! Not sure why that other person downvoted you, I certainly can't blame you for spending a few bucks on paint vs stripping the cabinet and dumping $400 into decals.
I might have to try this.

I have Radcals on my Hobbit LE. They are super nice and durable.
But, I'm already done with the whole project! It cost me nothing but some time and it looks great! I already had everything to do it!

#8520 10 months ago
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

I may radcal mine this winter. I've never used them before, but they appear to be an incredible product. Does anyone know of a source for them in the U.S. ?

PinballSales.com
1545 Rt 37W Suite 13
Toms River, NJ 08755

http://www.pinballsales.com/shop/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=350&idcategory=43

#8521 10 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

Isn't this USA?
PinballSales.com
1545 Rt 37W Suite 13
Toms River, NJ 08755
http://www.pinballsales.com/shop/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=350&idcategory=43

Yup, good to know, because Mirco is in Germany and I really didn't want to mess with international shipping.

#8522 10 months ago

Guys, is it true that if you get through 10 video modes there is an animation of Dracula washing your car?

I searched pinside for this and didnt find anything.

I heard about this in a Keith Elwyn video on youtube.

If anyone has done this, do you have video? would be cool to see.

#8523 10 months ago
Quoted from Elicash:

Guys, is it true that if you get through 10 video modes there is an animation of Dracula washing your car?
I searched pinside for this and didnt find anything.
I heard about this in a Keith Elwyn video on youtube.
If anyone has done this, do you have video? would be cool to see.

LOL! I heard that and If true I'd shit! But, I can't imagine ever getting there!
I do enjoy slamming Renfield into the bars though!
MV5BMmQ1OTdmNmQtYWI2MC00OGM1LWJiZTgtMzB[email protected]_V1_ (resized).jpg

#8524 10 months ago
Quoted from Elicash:

Guys, is it true that if you get through 10 video modes there is an animation of Dracula washing your car?
I searched pinside for this and didnt find anything.
I heard about this in a Keith Elwyn video on youtube.
If anyone has done this, do you have video? would be cool to see.

Take the glass off and let's find out!

#8525 10 months ago

Pinballsales has no stock, I ship everything direct from Germany, no matter where ordered.

Regards,
Mirco

#8526 10 months ago

Taking the glass off would not help in getting thru 10 video modes - would be good to start them. I sure would like to know if the car washing is true, though.

#8527 10 months ago
Quoted from Billc479:

Taking the glass off would not help in getting thru 10 video modes - would be good to start them. I sure would like to know if the car washing is true, though.

I played a lot of wolf modes when I was doing some minor fixes in the coloring for ColorDMD. My guess is its not true but I never actually counted to see how many I did in a row. I did play a crazy amount of them when testing though.

#8528 10 months ago
Quoted from Darscot:

I played a lot of wolf modes when I was doing some minor fixes in the coloring for ColorDMD. My guess is its not true but I never actually counted to see how many I did in a row. I did play a crazy amount of them when testing though.

I updated my color DMD recently and read the update but didn't really see anything noticeable. Can you elaborate ?

#8529 10 months ago
Quoted from mollyspub:

I updated my color DMD recently and read the update but didn't really see anything noticeable. Can you elaborate ?

The original color was awesome. There is just so much randomness in pinball there are situations that a frame will appear white. A frame being the blink on eye. I’m just kinda OCD and once I see that uncolored frame I see it every time. I just went through and cleaned up a bunch of little issues. There was one mode when you are in castle multi ball and hit every target a carriage rolls across the screen. That scene was uncolored in certain cases. Almost all the updates were areas that are very rarely seen or transitions between modes. Another one was if you enable low volume in the menu than reduce the volume less than eight the volume control would be uncolored. The blood drip on the score display is very random so rarely with really big or really small scores and just the right drip of blood it might blink white. Entering your initials could rarely be uncolored. In general there should be no noticeable change.

I did hunt through every last nook and cranny of the display so I thought I would have found the scene if it existed.

#8530 10 months ago
Quoted from Darscot:

The original color was awesome. There is just so much randomness in pinball there are situations that a frame will appear white. A frame being the blink on eye. I’m just kinda OCD and once I see that uncolored frame I see it every time. I just went through and cleaned up a bunch of little issues. There was one mode when you are in castle multi ball and hit every target a carriage rolls across the screen. That scene was uncolored in certain cases. Almost all the updates were areas that are very rarely seen or transitions between modes. Another one was if you enable low volume in the menu than reduce the volume less than eight the volume control would be uncolored. The blood drip on the score display is very random so rarely with really big or really small scores and just the right drip of blood it might blink white. Entering your initials could rarely be uncolored. In general there should be no noticeable change.
I did hunt through every last nook and cranny of the display so I thought I would have found the scene if it existed.

Thank you for the detailed explanation and efforts!

#8531 10 months ago

Hoping can someone help me out and let me know where these two green wires attach? I think they might attach to the yellow target where the white wires are located. There are the yellow, red, yellow targets in the center of the playfield (light castle lock).

IMG_0789 (resized).jpegIMG_0790 (resized).jpeg
#8532 10 months ago
Quoted from marksf123:

Hoping can someone help me out and let me know where these two green wires attach?

To the yellow wire/lug.

Compare to other stand up targets in your game. White wire and black end of the diode to a lug, green wire to a lug, silver band end of a diode to a lug.

Identical pattern on every switch in your game.

The yellow wire is a jumper to jump your green wire to the next targets.

LTG : )

#8533 10 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

To the yellow wire/lug.
Compare to other stand up targets in your game. White wire and black end of the diode to a lug, green wire to a lug, silver band end of a diode to a lug.
Identical pattern on every switch in your game.
The yellow wire is a jumper to jump your green wire to the next targets.
LTG : )

Thanks- very helpful

#8534 10 months ago

Hi, i just joined the club. I picked up my first BSD on Friday. It was pretty dirty and partially working, so I spent most of my free time in the last 48 hrs doing a full top-side tare down and shop job. She's looking pretty decent now.

Most of the game is working fine, but I've figured out that my 24-opto isn't working. I'm getting 12v to the board, but LED1 on the board isn't lit. I'm still a novice diagnosing board problems, but doesn't the schematic imply that the LED1 should be lit with power? Any ideas how to diagnose?

In switch test mode, the switch is always closed. I tried filming the opto on the left side of playfield with my phone (as suggested in another post) to see if it would pickup any emittance from the opto, but I don't see anything.

I’m also getting 12v at the left opto. Picture attached. Is it wired correctly?
24-opto schedmatic (resized).png

1678156E-226F-4366-B312-2AF71BC45AE2 (resized).jpeg

#8536 10 months ago
Quoted from Elicash:

Guys, is it true that if you get through 10 video modes there is an animation of Dracula washing your car?

I heard or read somewhere before that if you type in SUN for high score initials you get the car washing animation. I’m pretty sure I tried it and nothing happened.

#8537 10 months ago

Thanks. I tried to jump J2 pin2 to J1 pin 3 on the 24-opto board to see if that would close the switch, but no luck. So I believe that means the problem is on the board and not with the opto's themselves. Is this correct?

In regards to the board: I read that U2 and U1 and L1 are often the culprits. How can you determine replacements parts for these?

#8538 10 months ago
Quoted from curban:

How can you determine replacements parts for these?

Manual should have a diagram in it of the board and parts list.

LTG : )

#8539 10 months ago

Supermatt - On my machine, when you type in the initials SUN, the display shows Agggh - Not the Sun! No extra sounds or animation.

#8540 10 months ago

For those who put on the Dracula crate mod, what did you need to do to mount it? Mine is on route, so I need to know if it is something I might do in the arcade or if I need to wait until I bring it back home at some point.

#8541 10 months ago
Quoted from ThatOneDude:

For those who put on the Dracula crate mod, what did you need to do to mount it? Mine is on route, so I need to know if it is something I might do in the arcade or if I need to wait until I bring it back home at some point.

The light board comes off then it just slides on. Mine didn't sit 100% flush.

#8542 10 months ago

I've replaced the inductor + capacitors on two 24-opto boards and it fixed both of them.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/nichicon/ubt1v101mpd8/?qs=9yI11AV48ZRYn2eFTNUrJA%3d%3d
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/fastron/11p-103j-50/?qs=3%2fphUcBLEfbFTt%2fHH9YxRw%3d%3d

digikey shows stock for UBT1V101MPD8. I tried octopart to see who had stock, it also suggests some alternative parts. If you go with an alternative part, make sure the lead spacing is correct as well as its stats.

With your phone camera, I think you need to use the front-facing camera. The rear one has an IR filter.

#8543 10 months ago
Quoted from dr_nybble:

I've replaced the inductor + capacitors on two 24-opto boards and it fixed both of them.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/nichicon/ubt1v101mpd8/?qs=9yI11AV48ZRYn2eFTNUrJA%3d%3d
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/fastron/11p-103j-50/?qs=3%2fphUcBLEfbFTt%2fHH9YxRw%3d%3d
digikey shows stock for UBT1V101MPD8
With your phone camera, I think you need to use the front-facing camera. The rear one has an IR filter.

This, times 1000! (and a lot cheaper than the homepin board). This is the standard advice I give to anyone dealing with magnet issues.

Replace the emitter and receiver optos as well, cheap insurance!

I did the above months and hundreds of games ago, and have had nary an issue with Mist since.

#8544 10 months ago
Quoted from Billc479:

Supermatt - On my machine, when you type in the initials SUN, the display shows Agggh - Not the Sun! No extra sounds or animation.

Yes that sounds familiar, I think I got that as well but I was trying it after hearing you’d get the car wash animation. Must have been the wrong information.

#8545 10 months ago
Quoted from paulie484:

Tech question:
I believe I may have a faulty EMI filter
Can I use a 10A version over the original 5A version ?[quoted image][quoted image]

Absolutely no problem whatsoever to fit a higher rated part over the original. in fact, the machine (in the USA) uses an 8A mains fuse and that tells me straight away that the filter originally fitted (5A) is UNDERSIZED for the job and a 10A should have been used originally.

#8546 10 months ago

Which do you pick.

63B43E7E-49CB-43F3-A857-D05F3092EABA (resized).png
#8547 10 months ago
Quoted from Gorgar666:

Which do you pick.
[quoted image]

Blue

#8548 10 months ago

Yep, blue.

#8549 10 months ago

Well, blue wins by a landslide. On my Pinball Facebook fan page. Does anyone here have it installed so I can check it out. Too late anyway I already ordered it.

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