(Topic ID: 29878)

Bram Stokers Dracula Club....Welcome to the Carpathians

By shacklersrevenge

8 years ago


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  • Latest reply 2 days ago by paulie484
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There are 8624 posts in this topic. You are on page 170 of 173.
#8451 26 days ago
Quoted from hool10:

Got a question for you folks. I'm thinking of selling my BSD to aid in the funding of Sterns Godzilla Premium. What is the high end and low end for a game based on this condition?
1) It was routed heavily of at least 1 known location.
2) A Sun Process playfield filled with planking. It has a playfield protector on it however.
3) A Color-DMD display with new clear speaker panel.
4) Converted to NVRAM.
5) Rottendog Power Driver board and 10 Opto Switch Board. I have the old boards still that I was told can be fixed but the previous operators did a hack job on it and it caught fire. No battery acid damage on it. I just got new boards to reduce a potential headache.
6) New repro ramps installed. I still have all the old ramps but they are chipped, stress cracks, etc.
7) New plastic set installed. I also have all the old plastics.
8) Pinnovators kit installed in the coin door.
9) Pinballbulbs Ultimate LED Lighting Kit. I was too lazy to get bulbs and liked the style they did. https://www.pinballbulbs.com/products/bram-stokers-dracula-ultimate-led-lighting-kit
10) Orange plastic protectors.
11) Titan pinball rubbers including red feet protectors.
12) Art blades that are made for Monster Bash but they look like the town riot are going to Dracula's castle. Unfortunately have been torn a bit with lifting of the playfield. You take off the art blades and the entire sides are all scraped up.
13) Cabinet artwork is very slightly faded but it still looks pretty darn good. I have seen other BSD's and they are way worse.
14) Cabinet condition and decals are pretty good except the legs have dug into the cabinet on the front. I'm half surprised the underside doesn't have a galvanized plate underneath.
15) Flipper buttons are lit red with a Cointaker flipper button kit.
16) Bent plastic to prevent DMD glare on playfield glass.
17) Translite signed by Barry Oursler.
20) Purple flippers and purple pop bumpers that are lit inside the translucent pop bumpers.
21) Cliffys installed. Surprisingly enough the holes aren't really chewed up.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Some leg protectors and a new coin door would really spruce that example up. Leg protectors are pretty cheap, maybe $15, but a new Bally/WMS door runs pretty high, $175 or so. Sometimes cheaper if you find one without coin mechs. Then the planking is your only notable issue, assuming everything works. The playfield protector might help with some buyers. I would say it’s a $4k or so pin with those additions. Just my guess.

#8452 26 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Some leg protectors and a new coin door would really spruce that example up. Leg protectors are pretty cheap, maybe $15, but a new Bally/WMS door runs pretty high, $175 or so. Sometimes cheaper if you find one without coin mechs. Then the planking is your only notable issue, assuming everything works. The playfield protector might help with some buyers. I would say it’s a $4k or so pin with those additions. Just my guess.

If I was looking at that game to buy, in my mind I'd take $1000 right off the top for the bad playfield.

#8453 26 days ago
Quoted from Zee:

If I was looking at that game to buy, in my mind I'd take $1000 right off the top for the bad playfield.

$1000 off the top of what?

#8454 26 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

$1000 off the top of what?

The asking price.

#8455 26 days ago
Quoted from Zee:

The asking price.

I guess it all depends on what he asks. If he asks $5k, I would agree the price is too high with considerable pf planking. If he asks $3500, it’s not too high, especially in this market.

#8456 26 days ago

Tech question:

I believe I may have a faulty EMI filter

Can I use a 10A version over the original 5A version ?

20210921_164656 (resized).jpgMS4001-240v-ac-emi-filterImageMain-515 (resized).jpg
#8457 26 days ago

Tech question:
Can I use a 10A version over the original 5A version
To cut a long story short.. No!

#8458 26 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

I guess it all depends on what he asks. If he asks $5k, I would agree the price is too high with considerable pf planking. If he asks $3500, it’s not too high, especially in this market.

It's still a players condition game, $3500 too high IMO.

#8459 26 days ago

I'm never selling Dracula. I've had enough of new Sterns and will NOT buy any more at these prices. In Dracula, Pinsound upgrade IS a game changer. If you likes the movie, it's a must IMO. Also, I think Dracula will be worth more money as time goes on as it's a great addicting player's game and a great theme. People are learning about it and it will be in demand more in the future.

P.S.
I payed 4400.00 USD for mine and it has no planking.

#8460 26 days ago
Quoted from paulie484:

Tech question:
I believe I may have a faulty EMI filter
Can I use a 10A version over the original 5A version ?[quoted image][quoted image]

I don't see why not?
How did you determine this was faulty?

11
#8461 25 days ago

Here is the right and front sides of Drac with the red all touched up. I used Frisket and air brush on big stuff and small paint brush on little stuff. About three coats of Createx Red Opaque air brush paint. Left side is how bad the fading was on both sides.. Color looks better in person though. It doesn't look as orange.
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#8462 25 days ago

That turned out really nice!!

#8463 25 days ago
Quoted from poppapin:

That turned out really nice!!

Thanks! It did.

For anyone interested,
I didn't cut out the small details in Dracula. I just cut out the majority (larger areas) and finished with the small paint brush. The top logos and small text were also all done with the small paint brush. Also, after you peal off the Frisket, take a damp cloth and carefully wipe around the edges to remove the loose paint. You will have to touch up the edges in places. You can use black paint for that as well. I believe I was able to heat set the paint too. The cab decals can take a lot of heat. But I was careful to not melt them. You can cut the Frisket without cutting the decals, just keep changing to blade and be careful. You don't have to push very hard to cut the Frisket.

Added 17 days ago:

Should have said partial heat set. No way it's fully heat set as this requires 350 degrees for around 30 seconds I have read?

Use Createx Wicked Colors that develop a decent finish with normal air drying. No need to heat set.

#8464 25 days ago

Last night I was running a solenoid test on the right gate because it wasn't closing. After about a minute, I smelled something burning. Turned out, I cooked the right gate coil. Everything looked good when I disassembled the mech except for the burnt coil. There was no binding. I didn't have this solenoid firing for more than a minute. I checked the voltage during the test and voltage was changing as the test ran indicating that it wasn't locked on, nor is it powered when I just start a game. I couldn't get an accurate voltage reading, because the voltage was switching too fast, but it appeared to be around 40 volts. WTF? Any suggestions?
Thanks!

Added 22 days ago:

It turns out, it must have just been a bad coil after all. It shorted out inside the windings and reduced the wire resistance and over heated. The replacement coil works fine now. Nothing else found. I did or course, change the coil sleeve as well.

#8465 25 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

Last night I was running a solenoid test on the right gate because it wasn't closing. After about a minute, I smelled something burning. Turned out, I cooked the right gate coil. Everything looked good when I disassembled the mech except for the burnt coil. There was no binding. I didn't have this solenoid firing for more than a minute. I checked the voltage during the test and voltage was changing as the test ran indicating that it wasn't locked on, nor is it powered when I just start a game. I couldn't get an accurate voltage reading, because the voltage was switching too fast, but it appeared to be around 40 volts. WTF? Any suggestions?
Thanks!

IIRC, the right and left gate coils are controlled by the Fliptronics board in the head; it uses the two unused flipper circuits since BSD only has two flippers, if that helps.

RM

#8466 25 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

I don't see why not?
How did you determine this was faulty?

Not 100% sure at this stage....will do some more testing on the weekend

Decals look mint !!

#8467 25 days ago

Nearly Done ✅
Thanks to Tim @hotroddedpins Australia

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#8468 25 days ago

I'm stoked.

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#8469 25 days ago

How many plastic ramps are there in this game including the subway?

#8470 24 days ago
Quoted from lrosent345:

How many plastic ramps are there in this game including the subway?

There are 3 plastic ramps on top and 2 subways.

Gord

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#8471 24 days ago

Don't forget the plastic piece that lifts up for the coffin lock. It's separate from the ramp.

#8472 24 days ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

Don't forget the plastic piece that lifts up for the coffin lock. It's separate from the ramp.

Yes it would be nice to offer that piece as well, but it is currently available from the following source.

https://www.fabunlimited.com/pinball/bram-stokers-dracula-pinball-clear-coffin-lock-ramp?category=Bram%20Stoker%27s%20Dracula

Gord

#8473 24 days ago

New avatar. Pinside lost my old one!

#8474 23 days ago
Quoted from lrosent345:

How many plastic ramps are there in this game including the subway?

Does that mean your going to be making a set ???

#8475 22 days ago

Yes, but could take up to 6 months.

#8476 22 days ago
Quoted from lrosent345:

Yes, but could take up to 6 months.

People have been waiting longer than that!
I wish this had happened a while back as I bought those foggy , not fitting correctly ramps that a pinsider tried making !

#8477 22 days ago
Quoted from mollyspub:

People have been waiting longer than that!
I wish this had happened a while back as I bought those foggy , not fitting correctly ramps that a pinsider tried making !

I had set from him and they were crystal clear!!
Maybe your set had an issue !!!

#8478 22 days ago

Making pinball ramps is not rocket science but there is definitly a learning curve that wastes material and money. After 6 years of doing this, I still am learning.

#8479 22 days ago

Leaving the club for a 3rd time...

Reckon I'll be crazy enough to return for a 4th time!

Love never dies!

KJS

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#8480 22 days ago

Where did you get those covers?

#8481 22 days ago

I make them up here locally

#8482 22 days ago
Quoted from lrosent345:

Yes, but could take up to 6 months.

Would definitely be interested in a set of upper playfield ramps

#8483 22 days ago
Quoted from Jakusu:

Leaving the club for a 3rd time...
Reckon I'll be crazy enough to return for a 4th time!
Love never dies!
KJS[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

How can you sell that gothic masterpiece?!

#8484 22 days ago
Quoted from Jakusu:

Leaving the club for a 3rd time...
Reckon I'll be crazy enough to return for a 4th time!
Love never dies!
KJS[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

No way! You can't sell your amazing looking custom gothic edition!

#8485 22 days ago
Quoted from lrosent345:

Yes, but could take up to 6 months.

That’s great news I would like a full set,
how is it best to order them. ?

#8486 22 days ago

FYI, last night I installed this Williams coil mount bracket on the castle lock mech and it fixed the problem I was having with the balls jumping over the disappearing post. The hole where post passes through the bracket was worn and oblong (it's normally an oval, but was worn into a larger uneven oval). Nothing else was wrong.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-10008

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#8487 22 days ago

Also, it turns out, it must have just been a bad coil on my right gate after all. It shorted out inside the windings and reduced the wire resistance and over heated during the coil test which ran for about a minute as I was inspecting the gate, as it would not close. The replacement coil works fine now. Nothing else found. I did of course, clean the mech and change the coil sleeve as well.

#8488 21 days ago
Quoted from lrosent345:

Making pinball ramps is not rocket science but there is definitly a learning curve that wastes material and money. After 6 years of doing this, I still am learning.

Start a thread and teach us!

#8489 21 days ago

The short answer is it would take way too much time. I have my hands full just trying to maintain 130 products at all times and developing new projects. You can google thermorforming plastics and CNC trimming to get an idea of what's involved. I have thought about making a video of the process but right now that is even more time consuming. My process makes 100 ramps at a time and is not suited for a pinhead trying to make a few ramps.

#8490 20 days ago

FYI new owners!
I ordered some frosted LED bulbs for the back box from Comet Pinball to add a little color and get rid of some heat back there. Be warned that the back box is all wedge (555) bulbs and the frosted or clear type wedge bulbs do not fit very well into those sockets because of their round shape and size. Also these sockets are heat stressed plastic and very brittle and will break very easily. So only order the standard single SMD (555) bulbs with no lens (pictured in the middle below) rather than the frosted or clear ones with the dome covers.
1SMD_Bulbs_compact (resized).png

The wedge (906) 8 SMD work great for your flashers (pictured on right below).
Comet_Pinball_8SMD_Flasher-Recovered_compact (resized).jpg

Added 11 days ago:

Problem turned out to be out of spec bulb sockets. See picture @ post #8556 on page 172 this thread.

#8491 20 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

FYI new owners!
I ordered some frosted LED bulbs for the back box from Comet Pinball to add a little color and get rid of some heat back there. Be warned that the back box is all wedge (555) bulbs and the frosted type wedge bulbs do not fit very well into those sockets. Also these sockets are heat stressed plastic and very brittle and will break very easily. So only order the standard single SMD bulbs rather than the frosted ones with the dome covers.

Is BSD unique compared to other WPC titles with regards to the backbox lighting? I have used 2smd frosted bulbs in a bunch of WPC games and had no issues at all. I have a BSD, but its in the backlog of repairs right now, so I haven't got to doing bulbs yet.

#8492 20 days ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

Is BSD unique compared to other WPC titles with regards to the backbox lighting? I have used 2smd frosted bulbs in a bunch of WPC games and had no issues at all. I have a BSD, but its in the backlog of repairs right now, so I haven't got to doing bulbs yet.

I'm not sure as this is my first WPC game. My F-14 (System 11) was all 44 sockets in the back box.
The 2 smd will work fine as long as you don't order them with the lens!!! I use the 1 smd just to keep the brightness down to reduce playfield glass glare.

Added 11 days ago:

#8493 20 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

I'm not sure as this is my first WPC game. My F-14 (System 11) was all 44 sockets in the back box.
The 2 smd will work fine as long as you don't order them with the lens!!! I use the 1 smd just to keep the brightness down to reduce playfield glass glare.

Right on. I will have to take a look. My BSD doesn't boot so I haven't done much to it yet until I sort out the issues there. In other titles, I have really liked the frosted bulbs in the backbox (and all over really). The main positive of having the frosted domes to me is diffusing the light which is a really good effect.

#8494 20 days ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

Right on. I will have to take a look. My BSD doesn't boot so I haven't done much to it yet until I sort out the issues there. In other titles, I have really liked the frosted bulbs in the backbox (and all over really). The main positive of having the frosted domes to me is diffusing the light which is a really good effect.

Yes, which is why I ordered all frosted bulbs only to find out that the sockets don't like them at all! It's the way they're built. They have 4 corners that stick up and do not allow the dome lens bulbs to seat properly. And if you try forcing them at all, the corners of the socket break off (super brittle).

Added 11 days ago:

#8495 20 days ago

Just to clarify, you're saying that the led lamp bases (#555 wedge style) with domed tops are of a differing shape and size than other #555 led bulbs, EVEN from the same manufacturer? Never had that happen myself.

I've had some tight fitting led's before that needed a little persuasion compared to their original glass counterparts, but never as your describing. If I recall, the "toughest" of these was the wedges under the drac coffin cover, I had to use a channel lock wrench "gingerly" to get them in there.

#8496 20 days ago

Yes, but it's because of the sockets. The socket corners catch the bulbs that have the dome lenses (frosted and clear type). So only use bulbs with no lens or they will NOT seat properly!

Added 11 days ago:

#8497 20 days ago

Weird, I would "think" the wedge bases would all be the same, regardless of dome/no dome/number of smd's...

I'm guessing it was a batch/lot that was manufactured out of comet's specified tolerance.

IF, big IF, you wanted to go to the trouble, you could sand a little material off the corners of each wedge so they fit better. Or, you could just try a different batch of bulbs. Weird.

While we're on the topic of bulbs, I generally only buy Cointakers and Comets; and always with a frosted dome. If I need to, I can just pull the domes off and have the flat top style.

#8498 20 days ago

I installed comet wedge domed bulbs a few months back without problems. I did not use every socket though to reduce brightness.

20210928_082338 (resized).jpg
#8499 20 days ago
Quoted from Grandnational007:

Weird, I would "think" the wedge bases would all be the same, regardless of dome/no dome/number of smd's...
I'm guessing it was a batch/lot that was manufactured out of comet's specified tolerance.
IF, big IF, you wanted to go to the trouble, you could sand a little material off the corners of each wedge so they fit better. Or, you could just try a different batch of bulbs. Weird.
While we're on the topic of bulbs, I generally only buy Cointakers and Comets; and always with a frosted dome. If I need to, I can just pull the domes off and have the flat top style.

Yes, I will try pulling some of the lenses, but not sure if that will make any difference as it's the base that the socket corners hit.. I did order some new 555 sockets to install as some are pretty loose. These new sockets accommodate the new style bulbs. But the bulbs are definitely NOT the same in this case. I did break off the corners on several sockets and the bulbs still don't seat as well as their non lens counterparts.

Added 11 days ago:

#8500 20 days ago
Quoted from roffels:

I installed comet wedge domed bulbs a few months back without problems. I did not use every socket though to reduce brightness.
[quoted image]

Then something changed! You can get some to work, but many are not seated well and fail with machine vibration in my case. Some don't seat at all (the bulbs are good). No problems with the non lens type bulbs at all though!

Added 11 days ago:

There are 8624 posts in this topic. You are on page 170 of 173.

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