What does a ColorDmd look like with the Red tinted speaker Panel?

This would be pointless it would look red.

Lol,,,ok..

I was going to hold the original up in front of my clear one with color but I don't know where it ended up. You could probably cut the red section out. As long as uses a nice straight edge and maybe a dremel, it would probably come out ok. Way easier to just drop the $100 and grab a clear panel from ebay.

I have made several clear ones for Metallica, I cant see why I couldn't for any WMS/BLY games as well. If you need one or cant find one drop me a line. When I get a chance I will get one made and list them here or on ebay. Way cheaper than $100 on ebay if thats what they are going for (havent looked).

I just now have been considering putting ColorDMD. So, is the Red panel apart of the speakers surrounding art as well? One peice? I need to look closer when I have a chance.

I have never taken mine apart to look at it. I think its one piece according to the ColorDMD web site. They point you to another site that has a clear one piece plastic with the speaker graphics on it ($100). I will look at mine tomorrow and get back to you unless someone else clarifies it before then.

It is all one piece. It can't be separated.

Certainly is. There are posts earlier in the thread of people scraping it off somehow. If you’re spending 400 bucks for a color display, spend another hundred and get a new panel.

Or maybe Mr. Cleanhead can get you one cheaper.

If you do end up making them for cheaper than $100, put me down for one, too!

I was under the assumption that it was just the clear like on my Metallica. I can cut the acrylic/PETG but I cant do the graphics (yet). The direct print printer is very expensive and covid screwed up my business plans to get one. It may be a year or so before i can look into it again. It will cheaper for me to out source the printing, so at this point (depending on how the graphics are applied) $100 dont seem bad at all.

Got the decals back today. I'll try to install one or two and see how they look.

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Practicing making some target decals. I bought a bag of 1-inch round 3M 2-sided adhesive circles. Perfect size for these round standups. Then I use a hole-punch and remove the center for the rivet. Now to find just the right artwork!

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I LOVE the proto plastics but loathe the restricted view. You have to react REALLY quickly to time your shots right, and with lightning flippers, that's already hard enough.

Seem to be having a problem with mist multiball. Once mist mb is started by knocking the ball loose, everything is fine while two balls are on the table. Once the first ball drains, the game goes "game over" in about 5 seconds or so later.

I have run the maget test, and everything checks out. The trough switches and the outhole switch are working fine in test mode.

Any ideas?
Thanks.

Does anyone have a PF Protector on their PF and does the Mist_ball magnets work well with it?

I have the same problem going on. magnet Works for a while then the high voltage drive board that runs magnet over heats and stops working
Magnet unload area.

This has happened twice now with then a couple weeks . I wonder if the magnet needs something done to it that would help ?

Did you check the opto in switch test?

wrd1972_PinDoc Hi. Is a switch problem. It can be at the opto or the 3 switches at the Bottom of table. 1st text switch each switc and when doing so check if any other comes on when you test a different switch. 2nd go to switch levels and see which ones still active. If 4 ball are in the PF you should have 5. Those 4 plus another which said unused or always close Good luck

wrd1972_PinDoc Ps. The Magnet mech keeps going back and forth during the multiball? If so an opto ( either left or right where the ball rest for mist multiball is bad ). So when you drain 1 ball the computer reads the other ball is in the location ready for mist multiball and not in playfield then ends the game.

Thanks santis. I will perform those tests today.

Okay guys I figured it out. I was getting intermittent operation on the magnet detect opto (long opto). I found that if the PF was raised raised vertically, the sensor worked correctly. Same having the PF at 45 degrees. But when the PF was down, the sensor would not work.

When I was doing the restore, I bent that right pocket gate down a bit so it would better capture the mist ball. Seems I bent it too vertically down and the wire of the gate was blocking the infrared beam. I guess since the CPU was still seeing the ball, it was causing logic weirdness and moving to game-over.

All appears to be good now. Thanks for the replys all.

@wrd1972. Sweet easy fix.

Yep. Yesterday it was really doing nutty things like kicking two balls out the shooter lane. Ran tests and found nothing...until I found five balls loaded in the trough. DOH!

One more question for you guys. A roll back on the left ramp ends with a drain 75% of the time. I this typical? There is a cliffy protector on the left side of the ramp so it appears that the ball does not get a little nudge from the left side 1/2" rubber. In my experience there most always seems to be a 1/2" rubber that will give the ball a slight nudge to prevent a drain...but not here.

@wrd1972. Hi. That’s common it goes strait to the center. In mine I shake the game A little bit when it start to coming back so it moves a little off enough to hit it whit the flippers. ( is a players trick).

I may finish mine tomorrow.

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Do tell ...

So the BSD I am working starts playing a little tune, that never ends when in attract mode. It usually starts about a half hour after the last game. I dont think its an attract mode feature because the tune never stops. Does this mean anything?

This is the tune

wrd1972_PinDoc hi. I think you should check if the sound ROMs are the right ones.

The point of no return.

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Following!

A little trypophobia, yet I cant look away.

I just noticed a DOHO I haven’t seen mentioned before (in this thread or cows and Easter eggs website)while watching the color DMD YouTube video. Upper right corner on the bookcase top shelf

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I got ambitious and decided to try to fix up some of the planking lines just in front of the right ramp and slings on my BSD. I read about how to use a magic eraser and alcohol and then proceeded to begin. I did the thing, didn't take off any paint, and stopped before I caused any harm. However, now in the places I cleaned, there is a matte look to the areas compared to the rest of the playfield.

Did BSD come with a clear coat from the factory? When I cleaned my game, did I remove the clear coat? If so, do I now need to re-clearcoat my entire game?

Will post pics if needed.

I think this depends on who made your playfield. I believe Sun Process made playfields might have. If you look under the apron on the left hand side and see the game number there will be initials next to it to indicate who did

Very cool - never seen that one listed in any of the "easter egg" lists. Good find!

Yes it was clear coated. Magic Erasers put micro-scratches in any surface; you can polish them out to regain the shine.

Looking forward to seeing how this goes

The animation plays so fast it’d be hard to tell. I paused the video at the right time and noticed it sitting right there

Unfortunately, the decals weren't exactly right, so they won't work as is. And, the color wasn't as opaque as I wanted. The yellow was not nearly enough to cover damage, as you can see in the close up. I may try out waterslide decals next.
But the new insert looks good. I'll finish installing the rest this week and then worry about repairing art.

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Yellow doesn't cover well on its own. The screen printing was done on top of a white base.

Yeah, I'll lay down a bottom layer before applying new decals.

What is your endgame with this playfield? Are you sanding the inserts before gluing them in? Curious, because that is some nasty planking. Is it a LS playfield?

SP playfield. Yes, inserts are sanded and primed prior to reinstallation.
This will eventually have a playfield protector on it. I'm just making it look a little better before putting it on route for a bit. Long term plan is to watch for a better playfield to do a swap at some point.

Have any of you tried these thin plastic whole-playfield protectors?

https://www.playfield-protectors.com/Home/Details/8mRomepeY0KzDgS9WDTswQ?categoryid=33&category=Bram%20Stoker%27s%20Dracula&name=Bram%20Stoker%27s%20Dracula%20%7C%201993

Looking for real-world experience and opinions with these.

Thanks

I have used 2, one on a Blackout and one on a Jokerz! that I fixed up. Both worked well. I have one in the package for my Dracula, and it looks good.

I think it's a good product, but they sometimes don't fit perfectly. You may have to trim it a bit yourself to get it to lay flat.

Do they fit around things like playfield posts or do those posts hold them down? I'm concerned with what the plastic does when pinched down by fasteners (if that's how they mount).

Previous experience with thin plastic is that it craters down at the pinch point and lifts up around that point, creating a bubble. Also wondering about dirt getting under it.

Yes, I did some restoration work on my playfield. After that I put this protector in place.
Play is very smooth and I don‘t regret this measure. Actually, there are little adjustments necessary to get a perfect fit.
But from my perspective it‘s worth the efforts.