@grandnational007. The black wire from multimeter just touching any ground wire in backbox o the metal plate behind the boards(ground). The check the wires of solid color is the positive coming out from board.
(Topic ID: 29878)
Linked Games
Bram Stoker's Dracula
Williams, 1993
Topic Gallery
Berlin, CT
I got 10 volts on each of the top 5 pins at j115, so I guess that narrows it down a little further. Extremely frustrating haha.
Is 10 the down the line is less. Is should be 5 lines for gi’s. Now check first socket whit light out (for voltage).
Anyone know the proper diode orientation across the shooter coil lugs? I’m guessing it should have one, unless someone before thought this was a convenient spot to just blob one on...
This thing just keeps coming up with hacks and surprises, haha
AF029132-C9EA-4F63-9AFB-31D602636D44 (resized).jpegFC37FA06-28D9-461A-B8CC-5D1E59F50CDE (resized).jpeg
Gaborone
Quoted from Grandnational007:Anyone know the proper diode orientation across the shooter coil lugs? I’m guessing it should have one, unless someone before thought this was a convenient spot to just blob one on...
This thing just keeps coming up with hacks and surprises, haha [quoted image][quoted image]
The band end of a diode across a coil ALWAYS faces the 'hot' side. That is the side with the 50V supply voltage which is (in your example) the thick purple/yellow wire.
The diode hanging there on your coil is connected the correct way around without one end connected of course.
The game plunges without it, and I’m not getting any other switch errors...weird. I guess I’ll go ahead and solder it to the other side and see what happens.
Quoted from Grandnational007:The game plunges without it, and I’m not getting any other switch errors...weird. I guess I’ll go ahead and solder it to the other side and see what happens.
You should measure it first to make sure it isn't shorted. Leaving it off can (and probably will) damage the driver transistor. If you have a new one just replace it - they are very common and cost pennies each. 1N4007 is what you want if you don't have one but a 1N4004 is as good if you have that.
I have a bunch coming tomorrow with a large order; this one is a 1N4004; it shows 0 reading in Ohms?
Duh; anode side reads 580, and 0 on the cathode side in diode mode, so it looks good...it’s been a long day, haha
Does anyone have a spare of the plastic that goes over the left pop bumper? If so please pm me.
Thanks
Mike
I was in attract mode, letting the DMD run through and I noticed this for the first time. Are the names customizable? I couldn't seem to find it in the settings, but if anyone has info, I'd appreciate it! Might help the wife let me keep buying pinball machines. Maybe. G
IMG_9817 (resized).jpgIMG_9818 (resized).jpgQuoted from Grandnational007:The game plunges without it, and I’m not getting any other switch errors...weird. I guess I’ll go ahead and solder it to the other side and see what happens.
i thought that the two lug coils don't require a diode because they are mounted on the board?
Quoted from ky-pin:i thought that the two lug coils don't require a diode because they are mounted on the board?
Technically that's correct but there is no harm, and arguably some good, that can come from adding a diode right at the source of the high back EMF.
The saga continues on the two gi strings that are out at the back of the machine...
In acv mode on the meter, I get
7.2/3 volts on the double ganged string with the two brown and the two white with brown dots wires.
To get the readings, I am putting the negative probe on a ground braid, and the positive probe on the soldered connections on the bulb sockets.
I go down each string, placing the positive probe on each socket, on both socket connections. All readings are 7.2.
I do the same thing for the socket that it is single gang wired with brown and white with brown dots wires. Same thing all along the entire string, 7.2.
What am I doing wrong, or what is this info telling me?
5AC96049-DE44-47CA-AACB-5B9D3EA520D6 (resized).jpeg80A5C7EF-89F0-4043-8470-8F6533A5C815 (resized).jpegQuoted from Billc479:Luckdragon - Go into the Utilities menu, number 5. Page 1 - 18 in the manual.
Thanks so much! I'll give it a shot. 
Would jumpering from somewhere be helpfull, or am I risking damage? The game is entirely led’d at this point, so the draw wouldn’t be like it would with incandescents.
I’m fully stumped at this point how the two strings could be out.
To the delight of everyone in this thread, I can finally shut the hell up!
Per the pinwiki on WPC GI, I reseated the ribbon cable between the power board and the the driver board, reseated the asic chip, and reseated J120 for the umpteenth time. Voila! Not sure which specific thing did it, but it’s working.
Now just waiting on some odds and ends to arrive, and she’ll be in tip top! Thanks for the replies and guidance everyone.
F7412856-73DE-405B-A687-FAA37C1D45A3 (resized).jpegQuoted from Kiwikid:Hi there has anyone remade apron decals by chance? mine are not the best
Pm sent
Quoted from PinballWizard666:While doing a complete restoration for my BSD I want to replace all the screws and washers on the playfield with new ones. Anybody out there who has a complete list regarding this?
Found the complete list of screws and washers meanwhile, but I need a list for the upper part of the playfield only. Anybody out there with such a list?
Ottawa, ON
Quoted from Kiwikid:Hi there has anyone remade apron decals by chance? mine are not the best
My apron is screen printed. I repainted mine with stencils and airbrush. If this is in your wheelhouse I can give you the artwork.
I’m sure it’s been discussed ad nauseam, and I’m still catching up as I’m pretty new to the club, but I had the dreaded switch 82 error; I was able to trigger the switch on the receiving end with a tv remote so I figured that side was fine. I could see the emitter glowing slightly with a cell phone camera, but it looked weak. I recapped the 24 opto board ($3), and soldered in a new emitter assembly ($5). Tested prior to reassembling everything, and switch 82 would now close when you passed your hand across the play field. Hardest part was taking everything apart to get to the emitter. Just an option before considering buying a $100 replacement board you may not necessarily need.
Quoted from dr_nybble:My apron is screen printed. I repainted mine with stencils and airbrush. If this is in your wheelhouse I can give you the artwork.
Unfortunately mine are stickers so it wont really work. I was hoping someone may have made replica replacement stickers
Quoted from mollyspub:Pm sent
Hi there, i was hoping for replica replacement stickers, have you done those by chance? thanks
Quoted from Kiwikid:Hi there, i was hoping for replica replacement stickers, have you done those by chance? thanks
Sorry , I have not .
Quoted from Gorgar666:Ok, Mist Ball is sticking a slow hit? Any suggestions?
Are you saying that the two balls are sticking together on a slow hit? Unfortunately, that just goes with the territory. What's really frustrating is when you nail the mist ball so perfectly that the second ball takes it place.
Quoted from gweempose:Are you saying that the two balls are sticking together on a slow hit? Unfortunately, that just goes with the territory. What's really frustrating is when you nail the mist ball so perfectly that the second ball takes it place.
That happens very often to me. Lol
Quoted from Gorgar666:Who likes the Prototypes sling plastics?
Mine came with them 
Quoted from Gorgar666:Who likes the Prototypes sling plastics?
Quoted from Gorgar666:Who likes the Prototypes sling plastics?
These are a must have imo. I think the game looks bare without them. 
Quoted from Gorgar666:Who likes the Prototypes sling plastics?
If I could find a kit with the posts and plastics combined I would probably buy them. They just don't matter enough to me to make multiple orders. I guess to be honest I don't get the hype. People act like they are this weird rare item but it's probably more rare not to have them these days.
Siegen
Quoted from Santis:dr_nybble Hi I need the art work can you share whit me please? Thank you.
I put PDFs here: https://pinside.com/pinball/machine/bram-stokers-dracula/gallery/other
If you want the SVG files (created in Inkscape) send me a PM with your e-mail address.
Quoted from Darscot:... I guess to be honest I don't get the hype. People act like they are this weird rare item but it's probably more rare not to have them these days.
I agree. To me the prototype sling plastics are fugly and obscure the view of the ball in an important place on the playfield.
Quoted from Zee:I agree. To me the prototype sling plastics are fugly and obscure the view of the ball in an important place on the playfield.
I like the look of them, don’t like the restricted view. I may do this and call it done....maybe. Jajaja...
DDF3DC31-F367-487E-BBC7-F0DA1C76BBC5 (resized).pngPromoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
Reply
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!
Donate to PinsideGreat to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
