No idea. I found an old ad on pinside market and checked with the user to see if they had more. I think I might have gotten the last. But, hope is not lost. My originals will go to Jody, to be molds for a remake.

I am no longer in the club, but just finished a set of Lenticular/3D apron cards for anyone that is interested-
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1289-youbentmywookie/04902-bram-stokers-dracula-lenticular-apron-cards

Simulated 3D Effect (Some effects not rendered)-
Dracula.gif

Other designs-
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lenticular-apron-cards

My new optos and Home pin board came ups today . so bench test was good with new opto parts . bench tested old Home pin board no dice . I wonder if i can send it in for repair .

Did you try the adjustment I mentioned in my previous post?

Acquiring a HEP clearcoated NOS Playfield in a deal .reaching out before I list it for sale . So anyone needing a Pristine quality Playfield for restoration. Message me

PM sent.

I installed the Marco right gate and confirmed the mist magnet is strong enough to cause problems with the ball returning from the left side. I ended making my own from 304 stainless steel and now it works as expected. I used these rods and they were perfect diameter and length.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08L7RKM6Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00

I used this cheap bender. It did the job, but wouldn't consider the 90 deg bends great. If I had to do it again, I probably would have tried a three jaw plyer.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005M5TSFG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01

The end result won't win any beauty contents, but it is functional. Also I ended up figuring out a replacement for my missing hinge pin mentioned here;
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bram-stokers-dracula-clubmembers-only/page/152#post-6003157
Thanks to Zee for the suggestion.

For future reference, this was part that ended up fitting the game; https://www.mcmaster.com/92735a210 These come with E clips attached so no need to order extras, but you will want some washers as the pin is a bit longer than needed.
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And yes, I know my could benefit from a rubber kit haha. After coming off route in Germany, my focus has been to get it back to basic playability.

Big thanks to my buddy Greg for sending me some before and after. The camera flash really makes them glow....

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Hey guys,

I'm having some trouble at start up with a "magnet load error". When working correctly, I would power up the game and the ball in the mist gates would fall as the magnet moved across the playfield. I could certainly hear the magnet move every time I started the game, like a reset of some sort. Now the magnet doesn't do anything when I first turn on the game. The ball drops, a ball gets fed into the shooter lane and shot up to the right gate, but then falls and repeats the process over and over. The way I fix it is by going into the main menu, cycling through the errors and then exiting out. That seems to reset everything, the magnet moves and the ball stays up up at the right gate. Any ideas of what could be causing this?

Search the thread for “mist ball”. That issue happens all the time, and there are several detailed posts about it. Magnet unload and/or opto issue.

Just installed my mirrored CPR glass. This thing does look awesome!! Drac letters are nice and crisp.

(Enter red armor comments)

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And by the way, I bought and used a 27” x 3/16” polished lift channel. But the 3/16” plastic trim was a little large.

Didn’t want to put electrical tape or anything else on the glass, so I actually used 1/8” trim and it fit perfectly. I even put a piece across the bottom, then put the lift channel over that. Nice and snug.

There it is!

I had the same problem a few months back. Here is a thread detailing my Mist Ball journey and solution.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bsd-won-t-load-mist-ball-at-start-of-game#post-5921845

Gord

Thanks Gord, let me take a look.

24" opto bd. can cause these issues too.

HEP NOS SUN PROCESS BSD PLAYFIELD just listed on pinside. Have a few interested. Get it before its gone.Its a beaut Clark.

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Thanks for posting this Gord. Just got done with an opto replacement job stemming from similar issue. Replaced the optos and board but had a few other things I was meaning to do so it turned into new ramps/rubbers/cliffy's/new coffin ramp project which I just wrapped up. Extremely challenging and frustrating but your thread was a big help in troubleshooting as well as many others here. You guys are life-savers!

Hi @mikerob34,

I am glad that my previous thread on my prior BSD opto issues was of some value to you. Troubleshooting BSD opto issues can be challenging, but there is enough help on this forum from members and past threads that it is now pretty well covered.

Gord

has anyone suffered with magnet not working . Mine seems to have sorted the high current driver under the playfield .

You haven't really been a member of the club until you have to deal with opto issues. I love this pin but man that system did not age well.

Where did you get them
Very nice to change

I recently put new ramps in....if anyone wants my old ones....just pm me for pics. Not the nicest, but yours if you want to pay for shipping.....

There was a pinsider who had an expired ad for ramps. I think I may have gotten the last set. Jodyg will get my old ones to reproduce later.

While doing a complete restoration for my BSD I want to replace all the screws and washers on the playfield with new ones. Anybody out there who has a complete list regarding this?

Does anyone have a extra set or know where too buy the promo slingshot plastics . Will buy today

The parts list on ipdb.org lists them.

Pm sent

Pm sent

Loving the blood plastic protectors I just got. I think it is a nice touch

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Yes I agree , they look good!

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Finally joined the club last night!

Working through a complete, but somewhat neglected (as in owned by non-pinheads for years prior) example.

Cleaned out lots of wd-40 used as a lubricant, resoldered a bunch of broken wires, adjusted a bunch of switches, to get it playing reliably while I wait for a parts order to arrive.

Can anyone do me a favor and post a picture of their switch edge test screen, just so I can compare to this one?

Here’s where I’m at now:

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Here you go ...

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anyone know where these metal pieces go on bram stokers dracula? lighter is used for size reference.

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Who is selling these? They do look good.

Look in pinside shops

Hi everybody. I’m redoing my Dracula and I need pics from plastics below coffin if anyone can post it or send the to me. Thank you Once I’ll get it done I’ll post pics

I just had my recently acquired one apart yesterday, but these are the only ones I took. Hope it helps.

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...i found these pics

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DrBernd Grandnational007 Perfect pics. Thank you !!!

Buttoning this baby up, and one (hopefully) last issue to finish up with. I’m almost embarrassed to ask, as it seems so easy to usually identify...but this one is driving me crazy.

GI is out, I believe an entire string; the 4 rollover lane guides, the gi under the coffin, and the gi under the end of the shooter ramp. Fuses in the back box (106, 107, 108, 109, and 110) look and meter good. No noticeable wire breaks on the yellow strings. Lower GI (flipper area) works good. Reseated connectors on the driver board. Any idea where to begin?

Grandnational007 hi. 1st. Fuses should be tested whit 1 side off the board. 2nd. Is fuses tested ok look for a light out The closest to backbox and test volatges. This happened to me. Fuse was ok and A full row of lights were out. The 1st socket in line( the closest to back box ) was unsoldered. Solder it back and full line went on. Keep me posted in your progress. Good luck.

Hi. I’m looking for the biggest playfield plastic and the smallest playfield plastic. If someone has an spare and is willing to sell to me? PM me. Thank you.

The GI that is out appears to get power from a brown wire, and white wire with brown spots; it traces back to j115, and the connections look and feel solid. I’m going to try swapping fuses around and see if the problem follows.

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A fuse needs to at least have one end free of the clips to measure with a meter.

Forget about measuring in circuit and also forget about "it LOOKS good" - that doesn't mean a thing, you HAVE to measure it with a meter set to resistance and it should come in well under 1 ohm - virtually a short circuit.

Fuses verified good out of machine with a meter, can’t find any loose or broken wiring. Any ideas where I should look next?

I got the optos and magnet adjusted and working perfectly, and now it’s just this string of gi out at the back of the playfield, and it seems like it should be obvious but it’s driving me nuts, haha.

@grandnational007. This is what I think. In the molex The cable is not doing proper contact. There comes a tool to do it. You can also do it whit a flat screwdriver. The brown is the positive. And the white whit brown is the negative or ground wherever you call it. If you measure whit multimeter it should be about 6.5 volts. Tool cac variate depending make and model. But is basically like this.

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I just joined the club! Question for you guys. What do the 3 555 lamps under Dracula inside the coffin do? Do they light up for locks or it is it more of GI to light up the drac figure?

Thanks
Mike

They are shims that go under the service rails, on the underside of the play field between the in and out lane switch notches.

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The wires in the connector all looked to be seated correctly; I pushed all the individual wires back in the connector with a jeweler’s flat heat screw driver and still nothing.

Going to pull the connector and see if there’s at least power coming out of the driver board pins with a meter. If there is, I’m guessing then it’s a bad lamp socket? Never had #44 socket go bad before, so I’m not even sure what to look for.

As for checking the pins on the driver board, I’m putting the lead on pin 1, then checking for voltage at the other pins, and then on pin 2 and doing the same?