(Topic ID: 29878)

Bram Stokers Dracula Club....Welcome to the Carpathians


By shacklersrevenge

8 years ago



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  • 646 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 38 minutes ago by ThatOneDude
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There are 7751 posts in this topic. You are on page 155 of 156.
#7701 8 days ago
Quoted from mollyspub:

Looks like you gotta align your flippers bud

That was an old pic. They are adjusted now.

Getting ready to tear mine down soon anyway.... going back to lightning flips when I do. In black.

#7702 8 days ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

That was an old pic. They are adjusted now.
Getting ready to tear mine down soon anyway.... going back to lightning flips when I do. In black.

You mean like these?

211BC92B-E798-484D-A4C9-48DBEF09726F (resized).jpeg
#7703 8 days ago
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#7704 8 days ago
Quoted from freddy:

You mean like these?

Yup. I have a set with red rubbers too that have been sitting in my coin box for a year. Didn't want to play with BSD at all until the tear down occurs. You have to be committed with BSD more than other pins, and you're better off making all adjustments and repairs at once. Mine is certainly in need of a tune-up.

#7705 8 days ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

Yup. I have a set with red rubbers too that have been sitting in my coin box for a year. Didn't want to play with BSD at all until the tear down occurs. You have to be committed with BSD more than other pins, and you're better off making all adjustments and repairs at once. Mine is certainly in need of a tune-up.

Get busy!

#7706 8 days ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

I believe amber. Either that or orange. Definitely not yellow.

Yours definitely look faded. Here’s mine.

Yeah, mine are pretty rough. I am looking at putting in new ones and recreating the decals.

#7707 8 days ago
Quoted from ThatOneDude:

Started the teardown.
Someone sorta fixed the right mist gate. It doesn't quite fit and it blocks the mist multiball.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Left or right? Your pics are of the left gate and both pieces are handmade (gate and connecting spring). See if you can buy a new gate and spring. The left one wasn't available for a long while, but it did come up for sale again a while ago. If the material the gate is made from is ferrous, the magnet will pull the gate down through the ball and prevent it from going into the pocket.

#7708 8 days ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Left or right? Your pics are of the left gate and both pieces are handmade (gate and connecting spring).

No, definitely right. If you look at the larger picture, i removed the left gate already. I'm picking up a new wire from Marco.
I'm going to order amber and orange lightning inserts and see what looks better. Anyone have those graphics on file? If not, I'll just try to scan them myself.

#7709 7 days ago

Can someone tell me the length of the two spacers that the right side building is attached to? The last person just sort of stacked up computer hex spacers to sort of make it work. The one I'm most concerned with is the one towards the back of the building(as pictured).
154447916_266395378217682_8926400355931234325_n (resized).jpg154035449_1443277219347992_1269163444843179556_n (resized).jpg
EDIT: After trolling through the pictures on this thread, I see that it is supposed to be a much longer hex spacer. I'm guessing it's the 2-3/8 one from the manual?

#7710 7 days ago

Also, at least according to Marco, the lightning insert was supposed to be orange.

Screen Shot 2021-02-23 at 9.06.17 AM (resized).png
#7711 7 days ago

Hi - new to pinside and this forum. Have had my BSD for about 7 years now having been a pinball player since I was about 3 (my dad always had machines when I was growing up). Absolutely love the game but for one reason and another, the time has come to part with it. I wondered if you could give me a rough idea of what it is worth? Decent condition and all working but wouldn't suggest it looks brand new! No mods.

As a matter of interest, also wondered what other people's high score is? Mine currently sits at 8.5bn (on the screen) but didn't know if that was decent? I did have a game that went way over but unfortunately didn't record so I can't claim it (honest! )

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#7712 7 days ago
Quoted from Rich327:

Hi - new to pinside and this forum. Have had my BSD for about 7 years now having been a pinball player since I was about 3 (my dad always had machines when I was growing up). Absolutely love the game but for one reason and another, the time has come to part with it. I wondered if you could give me a rough idea of what it is worth? Decent condition and all working but wouldn't suggest it looks brand new! No mods.
As a matter of interest, also wondered what other people's high score is? Mine currently sits at 8.5bn (on the screen) but didn't know if that was decent? I did have a game that went way over but unfortunately didn't record so I can't claim it (honest! )
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That is a fantastic score! Mine is around 1.5 billion...don't want to know how long that took you lol.

As far as value there are a few things to point out and consider. On ALOT of these games you will see the red color on the cabinet faded out. If the other side of the game is like the picture you have, that is a huge plus for your game.

Does the game work all the way? You will want to check out that credit dot. If you are not familiar, there is a period (.) after the number of credit on your game. This means there is an error somewhere in the game. It could be something simple if you don't play very much such as a switch that has not been activated in several games. When you boot the game you should see a "press enter for test report" message. If you press the enter button on the coin door inside you will see the error the game has. If you report back here we can help with that.

The other thing to check is the boards in the backbox. If there are still AA batteries on the CPU check to make sure they have not leaked.

Your game looks to be in nice shape and especially with the cabinet colors. If the game works all the way the market seems to be around 3,500+ these days on BSD.

#7713 7 days ago

You can look at the Classified Archives for recent sales of BSD.

You do have some paint loss on the playfield. Is the mist multi ball working?

#7714 7 days ago

wow - thanks for the quick replies! only fault showing on the test report is "check switch 85 - L. ramp diverted". I can't see where this is causing an issue to the game as it all works fine including the mistball. There are some scratches etc. to both the cabinet and main glass and a couple of bulbs not working but apart from that it works fine.

#7715 7 days ago
Quoted from ThatOneDude:

Can someone tell me the length of the two spacers that the right side building is attached to? The last person just sort of stacked up computer hex spacers to sort of make it work. The one I'm most concerned with is the one towards the back of the building(as pictured).
[quoted image][quoted image]
EDIT: After trolling through the pictures on this thread, I see that it is supposed to be a much longer hex spacer. I'm guessing it's the 2-3/8 one from the manual?

pasted_image (resized).png

#7716 7 days ago

Thanks, dr_nybble !!

#7717 5 days ago

Hi all, does anyone know where I could get the blued steel ramp flaps that do the shooter ramp flap and the coffin by chance?
Pinbits used to do them by the looks and Marco are sold out.
Below is the sold out shooter ramp flap.
Thanks!
I’m deep into playfield swap and new decals last two bits I need, I think
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-11106

#7718 5 days ago
Quoted from Kiwikid:

Hi all, does anyone know where I could get the blued steel ramp flaps that do the shooter ramp flap and the coffin by chance?
Pinbits used to do them by the looks and Marco are sold out.
Below is the sold out shooter ramp flap.
Thanks!
I’m deep into playfield swap and new decals last two bits I need, I think
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-11106

You can use spring steel and cut them yourself.

amazon.com link »

Using a guillotine-style paper cutter works really well for the straight cuts, or you can use heavy-duty shears. I round the corners with shears and tidy them up with sandpaper. Use this to punch the holes: https://www.roperwhitney.com/our-products/no-5-jr-hand-punch-in-kit/ or you can buy a knock-off on Amazon.

I have an .svg file with drawings of the flaps if you need it. I tried cutting them on my Silhouette Cameo just to see what happens, it can score the spring steel (which is still useful!) but it's not cutting it.

#7719 4 days ago

Had not thought of making my own. Seems here in New Zealand from what I can see it’s a little tricky to buy the steel unless you buy in bulk but I will look around some more. Thanks

#7720 4 days ago
Quoted from Kiwikid:

Had not thought of making my own. Seems here in New Zealand from what I can see it’s a little tricky to buy the steel unless you buy in bulk but I will look around some more. Thanks

How about refreshing the old flaps? Sanding the surface until it‘s clean an smooth and after that heating up the steel in a baking oven up to approx. 290 (?) degrees C to get the blue colour...

Did it for my BSD...

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#7721 3 days ago

Need some help on this mist multi bal I have to BSD both have issues with mist I have a new home pin board but not sure on the Green LED OK so when I have everything plugged in turn on the green LED flickers very faintly. I've replaced both optos and no changes

#7722 3 days ago

At test point 1 I'm getting 14.6 volt it should be 12 volts would this cause a problem both my games testing the same at T1

#7723 3 days ago

I have noticed on the long opto cable under the play field one has an extra ground and extra insulation around it though the 1st Dracula has that cable the other one that I am working on for a friend has a speaker wire attached to the opto question is that one a high powered opto on the long side I can't seem to find part numbers anything like .

#7724 3 days ago
Quoted from trimoto:

Need some help on this mist multi bal I have to BSD both have issues with mist I have a new home pin board but not sure on the Green LED OK so when I have everything plugged in turn on the green LED flickers very faintly. I've replaced both optos and no changes

Which opto parts did you replace and with what parts exactly? Does the green beam test LED go out when you block the beam with your hand?

Quoted from trimoto:

At test point 1 I'm getting 14.6 volt it should be 12 volts would this cause a problem both my games testing the same at T1

It's fine.

Quoted from trimoto:

I have noticed on the long opto cable under the play field one has an extra ground and extra insulation around it though the 1st Dracula has that cable the other one that I am working on for a friend has a speaker wire attached to the opto question is that one a high powered opto on the long side I can't seem to find part numbers anything like .

For the receiving opto (left side) the Collector connections (J1-3) uses a black wire with an additional bare wire wrapped around. Not sure exactly the reason behind this. I would guess it's supposed to be some sort shielding/electrical noise protection.

#7725 3 days ago

Replace both transmitting and receiving optos with standard Williams equipment.

#7726 3 days ago

Green LED does not go off whatever beam is broken.
It just barely flickers when I test

#7727 3 days ago

Green LED is brighter now and when I block
The beam it gets dim.

#7728 3 days ago
Quoted from trimoto:

Replace both transmitting and receiving optos with standard Williams equipment.

Do you have a link to the exact parts you used? Did you try testing with the sensors outside of the game?

#7729 3 days ago

I dont have the part # they were new left over from another project . I did not test outside the game going to now

#7730 3 days ago

tested outside the game no dice. i guess ill order some new optos and another homepin . this game

#7731 3 days ago
Quoted from trimoto:

tested outside the game no dice. i guess ill order some new optos and another homepin . this game

Some info from Homepin on troubleshooting. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bsd-mist-woes-long-beam-opto#post-2983762

Doesn't seem likely a new Homepin board is bad. The redesigned circuit is an improvement from the original. It still isn't clear to me if you swapped out the individual RX and TX elements only (the LED looking parts), or the small pcbs entirely or if they were known working before you swapped them in. If you wire in the TX backwards it won't send a signal. If you wire in the RX backwards it will only detect on close proximity (less than 6" or so). On the TX, flat side of the clear lens is the (K)Cathode and it connects to J2-2 (originally black wire). On the TX, the flat side of the dark lens is the (C)Collector and connects to J1-3 (originally red wire).

Try using the camera on your phone to see if the IR transmitter is glowing. That would be good place to start.

#7732 2 days ago
Quoted from smiley:

Does your Fliptronics 2 board have a cap at C2? Mine did not and caused a similar problem.

It does. It's probably original to the game though. Would that impact only the performance of the right side gate coil?

#7733 2 days ago
Quoted from RobF:

Some info from Homepin on troubleshooting. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bsd-mist-woes-long-beam-opto#post-2983762
Doesn't seem likely a new Homepin board is bad. The redesigned circuit is an improvement from the original. It still isn't clear to me if you swapped out the individual RX and TX elements only (the LED looking parts), or the small pcbs entirely or if they were known working before you swapped them in. If you wire in the TX backwards it won't send a signal. If you wire in the RX backwards it will only detect on close proximity (less than 6" or so). On the TX, flat side of the clear lens is the (K)Cathode and it connects to J2-2 (originally black wire). On the TX, the flat side of the dark lens is the (C)Collector and connects to J1-3 (originally red wire).
Try using the camera on your phone to see if the IR transmitter is glowing. That would be good place to start.

To be transparent, there was a time that a couple bad boards DID get out. I got one of them:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bram-stokers-dracula-clubmembers-only/page/81#post-3521701

HomePin asked me to do a couple quick tests, which I performed, and we verified that the board was bad. He got me a brand new one in the mail immediately and the problem was solved per the post below. HomePin made it right. This wa sback before PinballLife readily carried them:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bram-stokers-dracula-clubmembers-only/page/88#post-3599594

Not saying this is the case again as I haven't heard of someone having a bad board since mine, but just in case....

#7734 2 days ago

ok so i have the home Pin board on the bench with 12 volt going to it Rx and Tx plug in. I screwed down Rx while moving Tx back forth no LED present . i dont get

20210227_213332 (resized).jpg
#7735 2 days ago

I just order some fresh optos from pinball life .
24" Opto Replacement Board - A-15646
Williams/Bally LED and PCB Board Set

#7736 2 days ago
Quoted from trimoto:

ok so i have the home Pin board on the bench with 12 volt going to it Rx and Tx plug in. I screwed down Rx while moving Tx back forth no LED present . i dont get
[quoted image]

Did you check with a digital camera that you could see the TX glowing?

It is really hard to see in your pic to say for sure, but it looks like the phototransistor (RX) is mounted to the circuit board (your blue one ) backwards. The lens flat side should be on the "C" side. It looks like it is on the "E" side of your board.

And yeah I totally get the frustration with getting this working. I have spent weeks futzing with my re-import game that showed up with a non functional mist MB. I have been in 24-opto hell. But after reading all the available references and studying the original control board and schematics I finally got mine working. And now I have have *3* working original boards (two that I have now revived from the dead). I got fed up with last week and ordered the Homepin board. Of course this was exactly one day before I figured out my last issue...so I'll probably be sending that one back. In any case I am planning on doing a full write-up of my troubleshooting experience while it is still fresh in my head.

#7737 2 days ago
Quoted from NPO:

To be transparent, there was a time that a couple bad boards DID get out. I got one of them:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bram-stokers-dracula-clubmembers-only/page/81#post-3521701
HomePin asked me to do a couple quick tests, which I performed, and we verified that the board was bad. He got me a brand new one in the mail immediately and the problem was solved per the post below. HomePin made it right. This wa sback before PinballLife readily carried them:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bram-stokers-dracula-clubmembers-only/page/88#post-3599594
Not saying this is the case again as I haven't heard of someone having a bad board since mine, but just in case....

Ah, that's a good reference thanks. Was that when they were offered as kits? Did you ever get a hint with what was wrong with the bad boards?

#7738 2 days ago

I did check with my camera and did not see any blue light coming from TX. I'm going to go at it one more time tonight .

20210228_115400 (resized).jpg
#7739 2 days ago

To test the Homepin 24" opto board VERY easily follow this:

(1) Remove board from machine
(2) Connect the two left pins of J1 & J2 with a jumper wire, short them together (see pic)
(3) Apply 12V to J3 (+ and GND are clearly marked on the board next to the connector)
(4) The green "Beam Test" LED should be ON
(5) If the green LED is NOT on, adjust the trim pot (centre of the board) about 10 degrees either way until the green LED DOES come on

If the above doesn't work the board is possibly faulty (rare but anything is possible).

If the board works as it should with the above test, you probably have faulty TX or RX opto devices, broken wires between them and the board, or faulty connectors in those wires.

It isn't easy to look at the TX LED glowing using a phone or camera as this circuit does not work in the usual manner. The TX LED is switched at approx 50% duty cycle and at about 40Khz (see pic) so the TX LED will be much dimmer than a standard opto TX/RX circuit.

Some might be wondering why the additional "Beam Test" green LED is mounted at an angle on this PCB - When the board is installed in a BSD, you are able to see this green LED through the open door and easily test the beam without even removing the glass (see pic).

This board is designed to be "stand alone" meaning it can easily be tested fully on its own and does not need any of the machines diagnostics to fault find.

Another point often misunderstood is this 24" beam uses standard opto TX and RX LEDs as used everywhere else in the machine. They ARE NOT special types at all, it is the way in which they are used by this circuit that makes the operation of the circuit different but the TX and RX parts are exactly the same so please don't go looking for "special optos" for replacements, they are just common types.

22705 (resized).jpg22707 (resized).jpg40k (resized).jpgfromfront1 (resized).jpg Added 2 days ago:

*that's 10 degrees either side of THE FACTORY SET POSITION*

#7740 2 days ago

thanks for the help i will give this a try .

#7741 2 days ago
Quoted from pins4u:

To test the Homepin 24" opto board VERY easily follow this:

It isn't easy to look at the TX LED glowing using a phone or camera as this circuit does not work in the usual manner. The TX LED is switched at approx 50% duty cycle and at about 40Khz (see pic) so the TX LED will be much dimmer than a standard opto TX/RX circuit.

Yep, they are more dim than the standard opto circuit, but I found viewing with the lights out the glow was easy to see.

Quoted from pins4u:

Another point often misunderstood is this 24" beam uses standard opto TX and RX LEDs as used everywhere else in the machine. They ARE NOT special types at all, it is the way in which they are used by this circuit that makes the operation of the circuit different but the TX and RX parts are exactly the same so please don't go looking for "special optos" for replacements, they are just common types.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Yep. No special parts, but I think it's important to clarify that replacing as a matched set is good practice. The B/W standard replacements are QED123 and QSD124 devices which have a peak wavelength of 880nm with a very narrow beam. The much easier to find parts for regular remote controls are most sensitive to 940nm wavelength but tend to have a much wider wavelength acceptance and beam width. Both types should work and probably can work intermixed with each other. From my small bit of experimentation, I think the B/W standard replacements are the best choice. I think the stronger/wider beam from the generic parts might cause problems in game. When the ball is 1/2 across the field the board can detect some IR spray getting around the ball. You can see this if you run the magnet test and watch (and hear) the ball on magnet switch bouncing back and forth for a few seconds. The game has hysteresis built in so it doesn't think the ball is knocked off path unless the the beam is seen consistently for some period of time. I think a stronger/wider beam could cause false triggering so the magnet would disengage about halfway across the playfield without the ball being struck. The stock 24opto board circuit limits the TX power of the LED to about 10% of it's max intensity. It looks like the Homepin version does as well.

TL:DR Use standard B/W opto parts and best bet is to replace them in pairs in case someone mixed and matched in the past.

#7742 1 day ago

Right gate question.

Are the original parts made of ferrous metal?

My game came with an obvious DIY replacement and I think it is made of copper.  It is really soft and after a few games getting bashed on, it bends down to the point that it can interfere the mist ball to passing through. I bought a replacement from Marco, but noticed that it is obviously steel and looks like the mist magnet will interact with it.  I know the left gate must be non-ferrous, but that one has a weak magnet and spring to pull it open so it makes sense that it isn't made to fight with the mist magnet.  The right gate has a strong solenoid to pull it down, but I am not sure if non-ferrous is required.

The picture shows a brass/bronze part, but the description says it won't be "gold color". However it does say it is a NOS part. So it isn't clear to me what the original part was supposed to be.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/12-7064

#7743 1 day ago

I'll test it soon, since I just ordered one. You can make one out of brass rod if it doesn't work. I might do that while I have a complete one to model from.

#7744 1 day ago
Quoted from ThatOneDude:

I'll test it soon, since I just ordered one. You can make one out of brass rod if it doesn't work. I might do that while I have a complete one to model from.

Thanks, but there is no need to test your new one, I can confirm it is steel. I installed the Marco part and the mist magnet would pull down strong enough to keep the gate partially closed, so I swapped it back to my janky copper one. That was before I found my fliptronics board was missing C2 and the gate pull down solenoid wasn't strong or reliable. Now that I have fixed that, I think the gate solenoid could be strong enough to counteract the mist magnet. Before I swap back to the marco part, I wanted to check what the original part was made of.

And yep, my backup is also to bend my own out of stainless/brass/bronze using the marco part as a template if it comes down to it.

#7745 1 day ago

When testing with your camera use the front-facing camera. The other one may have an IR filter.

#7746 1 day ago
Quoted from RobF:

Ah, that's a good reference thanks. Was that when they were offered as kits? Did you ever get a hint with what was wrong with the bad boards?

It was, but I ordered an assembled unit. I was never informed as to what exactly went wrong with the board.

#7747 8 hours ago

Got a couple of new main ramps and a full set of the others in today.

20210302_160056 (resized).jpg
#7748 8 hours ago

those are nice

#7749 8 hours ago
Quoted from RobF:

Thanks, but there is no need to test your new one, I can confirm it is steel.

Mine, too. Looks funky and is lightly magnetic. Not a great combo, IMO. I'll search for some brass to replace it this weekend.

#7750 2 hours ago
Quoted from ThatOneDude:

Got a couple of new main ramps and a full set of the others in today.

After a set myself is there somewhere they are available?

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