It appears pretty raised to be honest, but if it doesn’t affect trajectory and price is right I’d clean and wax it and play the mess out of it

Mine has the Sun Process playfield and it looks great but those inserts are slightly darker. I have to admit I never noticed it, yours looks good by comparison. The camera is exaggerating how dark they are. I would check which playfield the one your interested in has. They can plank pretty bad, also check up where the ball lands off the shooter ramp they can be damaged up there as well.
BSD (resized).jpg

OK. Seller is claiming they are not raised but unless or until I can put my hand on the playfield I am still deciding if this is normal or not. If you happen to be around your BSD want to snap a quick photo of your mist inserts?...

Thank you.

Here are mine.

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Super helpful photo. Thank you. It is interesting how people notice things differently. I'm mildly less concerned with what I am seeing. Much appreciated.. I am looking for any planking too.

Oh thank you. More to know on the range of condition for those mist inserts. Would you consider your inserts to be raised or just some light wear on the outside edges of a few of them.

I have an SP playfield as well. No raised inserts.

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I can barely feel any raising with my fingertips. So, just some light wear. I also have some planking near the bottom, so I'm putting a playfield protector on mine.

Thanks for feedback on the appearance of circular mist inserts.

Can anyone show me a close up photo of their BSD where the the inserts/art are not visibly darker or lighter than the surroundings or do not show a distinct outline around the perimeter of the inserts?

Great feedback I just need to see an example where the insert and surroundings appear more seemless.

I never really noticed till Phantom brought it up. It feels smooth, no bumps or anything that would pick up ball marks.

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I think it's normal for them to look a bit different, because the same ink is on wood and a translucent surface.

I’ve had 2 BSDs and you could see those mist inserts and the ones for the moon and Dracula on both. As long as they aren’t raised to a degree they affect the ball you should be ok. It’s a matter of tolerance too. Some may be bothered by their appearance and others not. It doesn’t bother me.

Hey folks! I am wondering about my BSD sound - I owned one in the past with Pinball Pro speakers and it sounded amazing, it was part of the reason I fell in love with the game. I hooked up a Polk sub as I have on other games and there is little / no volume pulling from the sub. Sub tests good, but I really don't hear anything from that bottom speaker / the sub.

Looking for someone to just confirm that a sub should actually push out some bass so I don't go chasing a problem that's related to the speakers in the backbox just being "tinny."

You should pull big bass with a polk. Had a PSW10 on mine with pinsound in stereo. Amazing!

Are you getting any sound from the cabinet speaker without the sub?

I have a polk 10 on mine and it vibrates the whole house. I’d make sure the connection is good

Thank you! I wanted to double check before digging in.

I believe the cabinet speaker is fed by a 2-pin connector near the bottom right of the sound board. Check the connector, and also try re-flowing the solder on the header pins.

Huh. Speaker cabinet is fine at this point but the sub just really isn't doing much of anything. New sub, same type of sub connected the same way to 5 other games. Swapped w a different sub, still not a lot of bass.

The cabinet speaker is louder than the sub even. Very strange.

It "plays"? Like it flips? Pull out all your LED connectors and try again. Add one at a time until you find the problem. Sounds like you shorted something.

Got a Dracula playing perfect, was in attract mode last night, and all of a sudden it goes into ball search mode. Walk over to the game and notice thin layer of smoke under the glass, shut it off and figure it's a coil locked on and burned up, (been there done that) searching around and there's no hot coils. After dust settles I notice no opto's working, and then notice 12v fuse is blown, replaced it, and now I have all of the optos back, with exception of the mist long throw opto. Found the circuit board underneath got a little hot. I can replace the components but was wondering what your opinions were on the subject. (Why it blew resistors, and etc) pictures of the board. Fuse does not blow now with burned up board. (Maybe was the components time to go) ? Don't want to repeat it and cause more damage

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Is R4 the the only component that died (R13 and R12 next to it just look stained)? Figuring out which parts are dead can give hints to what happened.

If you have a multimeter, do an ohm check with the red lead on non banded leg of D1 and the black on on the GND pin of J3.

the capacitors are prone to fail on that board...would replace them

I cannot help you with the forensics on this board to figure out why you blew some components, however, I recently replaced my standard BSD opto board with the following opto board and it works great. Granted, it is more expensive than replacing a few components, but it is much simpler and it is truly plug and play.

https://www.pinballlife.com/24-opto-replacement-board-a-15646.html?Category_Code=

Gord

I had an interesting thing happen when I was playing yesterday. I started mist multiball, and then I immediately nailed the mist ball so hard that it went sailing around the right orbit and started the video mode. So instead of being rewarded with the start of the multiball, the flippers just died.

That’s called “Pist” multiball. Grrrrrrrr.

This is a known bug that will hopefully be addressed by Soren.

Thanks guys. Finally got to it. Replaced both r12 and r4 as they were out of tolerance. R13 was fine. All diodes fine as well. Also replaced the two 100uf 35v capacitors as well. Put it back in played a few games and it seems to be playing fine.

If you double flip to cancel the start animation, then die to the first wolf, there's a chance you can save the multiball.

Does anyone in the USA have a decent, not necessarily perfect, pair of BSD slingshot plastics and/or the center bank plastic they'd sell me? I know Marco has them, but looking for some a little cheaper if possible. Thanks!!

I’m not in the US but I have a set. They are kinda off color. I guess some playfields are lighter grey and some more blue. I eventually found a set that matched better so you can have them for the cost to ship. Regular mail is probably not enough to even bother with the transfer but if you want to pay for tracking we can figure it out.

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We finally finished our hologram topper for Bram Stoker's Dracula. The topper looks 10 times better in person then they do on video. It comes with over 20 videos, and we have 11 on this video. You can choose which holograms you want, and it will loop those. We did 3 versions of the gargoyle head, lighted, red and under-lighting.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1032-lighted-pinball-mods/04673-bram-stoker-s-dracula-pinball-hologram-topper

Thanks for your reply! I'll let you know. I picked up my game this weekend and I'm going through which ones I need. I know I need the two slings and the center target bank. Excited to be in the club, always loved this game.

Is there audio of the topper? Or does it make the machine vibrate?

Clearing out some stuff for the new year and came across this partial plastics set from when I was in the club with a prototype game! These are original WMS & you will see one set of the upper sling plastics in there which were never a part of the set but I was able to get 2 sets of those upper slings from a former WMS employee way back in the day and one set was used to replace the broken ones in the game plus. If anyone is interested PM me.

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I have the dreaded A-15430 10 opto board failure. I have a second board that works in the game so i know its a board problem.
I replaced a connector, the C1 cap and the 3 - LM339 chips and have the same issue. ( I was getting a row 2 ground short but that is gone).
Castle opto 3 switch 57 is always closed.
I have checked all the traces to my ability and they seem fine. The resistors seem fine. The diodes check ok. I added the small jumper wire to the big resistor because the resistance didnt make it to the pin.
I have a meter and a logic probe. Not sure what to do with the probe since the switch is always reading tripped.
How can i find out where the issue is?
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I have this board available for sale if you can’t put yours to work

How much are you looking to get?

Pbpins I sent you a message about the plastics

Here is a picture of my new BSD. Recently tore it down for cleaning and put all new titan white rubbers on it. Lighting is all comet warm white LEDs with incandescent flashers. Always loved this game, happy to now own it!

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FOUND IT: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/B-8623

933 .2 B-8623 runway ball guide w/baffle 1

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Anyone know the part number of the TOP part of the trough ball guides?

I found the lower on Marco: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-10599

https://images.pinside.com/3/d4/3d48895176b442fd2ef442eb49df433418144467/resized/large/3d48895176b442fd2ef442eb49df433418144467.jpg

Bad capacitors on power supply would cause slow boots, since its waiting for the voltages to come into range.

The flipper is likely a bad EOS or poor soldering of the wires and diode to the flipper coil

The long opto board is either bad or you have a bad opto transmitter

Depending on the settings, some BSDs will kick the mist ball out upon booting right?

RVA - I know mine will sometimes kick out the ball on power up. I have not really noticed whether it happens every time.

I was thinking the OP was talking about all of the time, not just during startup. If OP is saying the ball only drops out when starting AND loads a ball in prior to allowing the game to start, then there’s not a problem. However, if the ball is continually dropped out, there is a problem. Likely the best thing for OP to do is clarify the issue.

It's not supposed to dump the mist ball on boot but it's a common "problem." Since it's so minor, I never bothered to look into it. There is a setting to drain castle locks after a game.

BSD will unload the mist ball (from either the left or right mist ball pocket) upon booting if there is a ball locked in the castle lock lane. If there is not a ball in the castle lock lane then your BSD should not unload the mist ball when booting up your game.

There is a software setting for Feature Adjustments (A2.44) that will unload all locked balls at the end of each game which also includes unloading and reloading the mist ball. I tried this method and it is sort of annoying because if you have a ball in the castle lock lane at the end of a game BSD will unload the locked ball from the castle lock lane and also unload the mist ball and then it reloads the mist ball again into the mist ball pocket. If you go into the 'Adjustments Menu' to review or adjust settings BSD will also unload the mist ball and then reload the mist ball after existing the 'Adjustments Menu' even if a ball is not locked in the castle lock lane.

Bottom line, if you have a ball locked in the castle lock lane when you boot up your BSD it should always unload both the locked ball in the castle lock lane and the mist ball and then BSD will reload the mist ball into the mist ball pocket. If you have the 'Game Over Unlock' (A2.44) feature setting set to 'No' and you do not have any balls locked in the castle lock lane upon bootup and your BSD still unloads the mist ball then as Pinsider Billc479 stated you likely have an issue with your long range opto board or with your opto transmitter.

A few months ago I had issues with the mist ball on my BSD and the thread below details the journey and how the issue was resolved.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bsd-won-t-load-mist-ball-at-start-of-game

Gord

BSD_Ball_Lock_Adjustment.pdf

I've decided to do a full restoration on my BSD #2 that I was using for reference when I restored BSD#1.

For BSD #1 I used RadCals. They look really good; my concerns are that the cabinet needs to be perfect at the edges to avoid overhang of the rigid RadCal and it is a bit of nervous work to drill all the holes.

So I'm thinking to go 'traditional' for BSD #2. Who is the best supplier for vinyl decals? I'd like to stick to the original artwork.

I bought a new crypt popper weldment from Mantis as my old one fell apart. It looks extremely close to the original. I had problems with the optos detecting the ball — I ended up stacking 3 washers between the screw and the opto housing to raise the optos up so the ball blocked more of the beam. Anyone else had to put optos on stilts?

Did you ask Kerry at Mantis about this?