I want to put in a color dmd. Just realized the red tinted window is integral to the entire front plastic piece. How does one convert the red window to clear?

By buying a new clear speaker panel.

LOL, true but does anyone know where? Classic arcades shows “sold out”.

Plastics are being shipped today to those who wanted certain pieces, coffin mod is gone too, I will sell the clear shield for the color Dmd too. Need to reduce the amount of spare stuff I have.

LED is the way to go. I have it in my BSD and it's awesome.

100% agreed. LED is the way I went. Love it and not looking back.

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Thx. Found one! Well actually he found me

Has anyone added a universal shaker motor? If so what option did you set it too, and is it worth it. I was thinking the pinball life universal shaker, it says you can set it to up to 16 triggers.

I have one on my BSD and have it set up to enguage on only 2 settings. Love never dies flashers and when Reinfield mentions eternal life. It's a nice addition to the game!

The new Dracula series on Netflix is pretty fucking good

Agreed, but only first two episodes .... third is a shipwreck

Absolutely really enjoyed it. and the couple of sly Doctor Who references the guys threw in. LOVED Mark Gatiss as Renfield, that was a cool twist.

The 3rd episode is a bit uneven (although I disagree that it's a shipwreck.. or was that a joke about the Demeter? ) and I think they should have just kept the Agatha Van Helsing character, or framed her descendant as the exact same personality. It was a bit too much of a change. I dug the Magneto cage for him, and the way they moved the sunlight around, that was awesome.

I've "solved" an issue I was having with my BSD, but was hoping for a little education to make sure I've actually got the root cause.

When the mist ball is staged on the right side of the game, it travels right to left with no problem and re-stages itself fine on the left if not hit. If the ball is staged on the left the right side gate seemed to open early and close early before the ball got there, making the multiball active when you didn't earn it.

I basically just adjusted the switch on the right side of the game that the magnet triggers until the timing seemed good. It works now but the window is pretty tight, meaning the gate on the right seems to close up jussssst as the ball is about to fall out.

Is that magnet switch the only thing that controls the timing of the gate? I've seen a few threads that say C2 on the fliptronics board should be replaced for this issue...is that true? Or is it just a matter of playing with the switch adjustment?

Any tips and tricks appreciated to make sure I've actually flushed this out.

I had a very similar issue and my board did not have a capacitor installed at C2. Adding one fixed the issue for me. I’d check and see if you have a capacitor at C2 to start.

BSD uses the two unused flipper circuits on the Flip2 board to control the opening and closing of the mist gates.

They are very sensitive to bent gate wires and incorrect spring tension, but yes there should be a 100uF (IIRC) cap at C2 on the Flip2 board for BSD.

I have seen BSDs with nothing on C2 and I always install one if missing.

RM

There is a cap there but it looks pretty visibly old and swollen out. I'll swap it and see what we get.

Asked a mate to help with a BSD i just bought that was in decent shape just real dirty. I enjoy playing he enjoys tinkering so at the end of all of this I added a Pinsound board with a shaker and love it. Will post the Thread up and was thinking of adding a Lighted speaker panel but worried it would reflect to much on the glass and make pinball play harder. Also any mods or ideas that i may be missing advice would be appreciated as i do love this game. Here is his Thread.
https://www.aussiearcade.com/forum/pinball/pinball-restoration-s/dmd-dot-matrix-display-pinball-restorations/104451-bram-stoker-s-dracula-%C2%96-williams-1993-repair-service-log

I have the lighted speaker panel in blue and I don't think it adds any reflection at all. But I do have the laserific topper and it does reflect pretty bad in certain colors.

I think my next mods will be pinsound and shaker, and color DMD then I am done with my BSD. Birthdays, valentines day and anniversary are too far apart.

Ok good to know on the topper mate cheers. On the speaker panel will get it lighted. I just bought this as a replacement as my current one has a few nicks and scratches that bother me.
https://www.aussiearcade.com/forum/pinball/pinball-technical-and-repair-questions/pinball-mods/95847-getaway-and-bsd

Nice. I looked through your entire last post and am motivated to do a full break down of my BSD when I have the time. The mods I am going to do are color DMD, shaker, and pinsound. Then its done.

Yes i am thinking of color DMD also, I do like it just red so am on the fence really not sure what to do. Shaker i got from pinsound not sure if pinshaker or pinsound are better. The shaker adds to it and the Hazzard remix is really nice on the Pinsound although it does not have the same pop bumber sounds i like on the original sounds.

This game is worth it so glad your doing it

I think.the motion control from pinsound is amazing after just fitting and programming up on my custom Bop and Mad Max. Can't wait to fit it to my custom Drac. Playfield done, its next on my restore list!

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That Sir is a work of art!

Wow, that playfield looks great. Can't wait to see it all put together.

Looking amazing

As if Dracula wasn’t punishing enough already.

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Pretty amazing colors B/W with purple and red. What are you doing for the cabinet decals? Going B/W with red I presume?

I've seen a preview of this "gothic edition". Let's just say it's bad ass
Can't wait to see it all together!

here is the cab

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Looking amazing man! Cant wait to see it done!

Would love that shooter button art if your willing to share or sell. Pin looks amazing!!

Contact pinball haus in Brisbane for the art of the face.

some more pics of project pieces

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Just.... damn. That's awesome.

Finally found a coffin mod, with the tombstone cover mod it's PERFECT!

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Congrats, looks great!
Would love to have one, but not too keen on beeing stringed along for a year

Made some quick (20 minutes) and cheap ($20?) velvet blades!
Originally was going to put this on my ToM (when I had it) a few years ago, had an extra 24x48 sheet of 0.06 PETG laying around and thought it could work well.
For this one, I was going for the look of a coffin lining.
Got the material from Jo-Ann real cheap. It's fairly stretchy (think a sock elastic) and a little iridescent.
Cut a template on the PETG from a mirror blade using a razor blade.
Sprayed some 3M high strength contact adhesive on both sides, let it tack for 1-2 minutes, applied, flipped it over, sprayed more adhesive on the back, let it tack, then tucked in the excess.
Cut a hole for the head screw mount.
Popped them in, they're a little bit snugger than a mirror blade, but considering the material the playfield moves pretty smoothly on it. Have to guide it a bit when putting the playfield back in but then it sits still.
Put the dimensions of the mirror blade if you want to copy.
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Well, I rejoined the club today. We had a BSD around 10 years ago and I sold it and my wife has not let me hear the end of it.

This beautiful example dropped in my lap yesterday. I can't believe the mods that are out there for this game now!

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Looking for light board A-16108 mine works with repair but is burnt up pretty bad. Since I'm doing a playing field swap I thought I would replace it.

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Man, that's some damage! What happened?

I looked around a few places but didn't see it remade or used. It looks like Action Pinball had a listing for one but now out.

Before I bought it the magnet got stuck and burnt up the playing field. Believe it or not the top only has a small brown spot. Game is now fully working and ready for a playing field swap.

Saving another one!

"Love Never Dies"

That sucks. I've seen magnet burn on an Addams Family but never knew one to burn a playfield like that. What you have is a decent work around and no one sees it under the playfield for the light board. I bet it will look sweet with the new playfield in.

Hello! I need some help on an error code if possible. My BSD shows switch 86 middle 3 bank left. I looked it up in the manual but I’m not sure what to do. Any help would be great. The game seems to work fine but I want the dot to go away. Thanks!

The machine is telling you that the switch for the left target has not been registering hits.
Remove the glass, go into test, and push on the target - if the machine registers the switch closure, then no problems. Just start a game, and manually hit the switch a few times. Next power up, the error should clear.
If the switch does not register, lift the playfield, and look at the wires on the bottom of the target switch. Look for a broken wire, and solder it back on. If that's not the problem, report back for the next steps.

^^ Nice step by step!

New owner of a routed BSD here. Can someone tell me the part number of the post circled? I see the part numbers in the manual but cant tell where which ones go.
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Should be the same as the 2 around the scoop in your picture.

I figured out what it is. Same as the one to the left of the coffin ramp.
Those 2 by the scoop are different. They have female threads on top to accept a screw.

Just wanted to post this in case anyone else is stumped with long opto issues. My long opto stopped working, and the transmitter had failed. I replaced it, still nothing. Replaced the receiver, still the same issue. I looked closely at the board, and R4 had burned up. Instead of 10 ohms, it was 2 Meg. Replaced it, it immediately burned up again. (Amazing at how fast the smoke escapes from these quarter watt resistors!)

I figured a short to ground, checked, could not find anything. Checked the capacitors with a capacitance checker, all checked good. Burned up another 10 ohm resistor. Removed the board again, and then after reading about all the opto board issues, I changed out C7 (100 ufd, 35V), and lo and behold, it worked. Interestingly, I checked the old capacitor out of circuit, it read 99 ufd, and an ESR of 3.4 ohms. So, I am guessing the capacitor was breaking down under voltage, causing the short.

So, bottom line, if your board has a burned R4, look at changing out C7, even if it does read good.