Thanks! If you do get yourself a pinsound, grab an external sub off Amazon for under $99 as well. It adds a depth of sound I don't think I could ever be without in my home setup for BSD.

I'm going to make a final tweak to some sound levels for V1 and will experiment with that original locking laugh again.

How about this, I sold him the one he has in his house now with Color DMD. Makes me happy

The original laugh won't fit in I'm afraid. Although, the laugh currently in the mix is also original, from the movie, and also one from an old movieteaser I found online, that sounds really great. The voiceover work by Gary Oldman for the game is fantastic, but also very theatrical. Wich differs slightly from the movie.

Agreed, and while I always liked the emotional tone of that original game's coffin lock laugh, as we know, using anything from the original game sounds has a lack of quality roughness to it that often doesn't mesh with the more pronounced and clear movie call outs. Most importantly, like you said, it's a real asset from the original movie, which for me is the golden rule. I definitely liked that laugh you selected and agree to leave it in.

I'm always open to experimenting on the side if someone has an idea, but as Hazzard points out, there are limitations to what sounds work where.

Yeah, I'm still waiting for a resample/bit enhancer plug-in that can add the missing bit depth/samplerate and magically add the frequencies that where so brutally removed when converting from the probably great sounding DAT recordings done in London, to the horrible sound format they had to use in a 90s pin. I have tried to get confirmation that those recordings still exists in a vault somewhere, to no avail...

That would a KILLER addition here! Fingers crossed you ever get a chance at those.

My LOVE NEVER DIES is looking much better these days thanks to Comets matrixs system !

image (resized).jpeg

Very cool!

Very nice! Details?

I did that too and love it. Photos an videos makes it look more orange-ish, but it’s blood red in person.

I actually have three strips total. Two LED strips behind the DRACULA in the translite and a strip adhered to the flasher board behind the love never dies. I find that putting them on the flasher board gives enough space so that only the letters light up and nothing around it.

Comet matrix are the perfect way to go, since I prefer static coloring, but mine happen to be standard LED remote strips off amazon and plugged into the service outlet. Power splitter plus an additional control box for the two locations, so the love never dies is on it’s own remote with red coloring, and the two behind the translite are on their own remote and usually on cool white with the alternate translite.

When I use the original translite I do a blue/green color fade for those two strips up there, and it made the clouds in the art go from blue to green, looks awesomely like green mist.

Another benefit I like about using strips in the service outlet is when my game is plugged in, the love never dies and DRACULA words along with his face stay lit and act as a night light in the game room. This setup works best if you have easy access to your power outlet. I unplug my games when not in use.

And I can’t recommend enough using two white comet matrix strips for under the big left ramp. Having the lightning bolt on the ramp completely backlit going up and around the bend of the ramp. Gone now are those two circular light spots. Again, looks great and probably can never go back.

8091CD4E-F40C-44F6-AAC3-DF283CAA6280 (resized).jpeg

It's a red led strip from comet that allows you to simply plug into one of the flasher connections. It's mounted on the top of the flasher board. It's that simple !

I wonder where they got that idea.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bram-stokers-dracula-clubmembers-only/page/37#post-1813869

Non-sarcastic reminder - theres a ton of great info in the key posts on this thread!

Hope this isn't copyrighted!

Guess I should have!

I have a overall very nice bram stokers original translite if someone is interested for sale. Also original dracula figure and coffin dome

I got a NOS translite. Has a few small wear marks but none are very visable i have them pictured. Make me an offef

20191123_161944 (resized).jpg

20191123_161946 (resized).jpg

20191123_161956 (resized).jpg

20191123_162012 (resized).jpg

Anyone repaint the hammered blue rails? Looking for advice on how to do it (what paint etc.)

Beautiful!

Yes, I used a rattle can of Krylon Fusion Satin Peacock Blue, not perfect but a pretty good match. Then cleared it with Mod Podge. Also protected the left side outlane with 3M clear auto bra film
7AD832AD-340B-4C24-8010-5492C7F8C9B3 (resized).jpeg

Chilled with davebart5 Saturday night and put up 10 or 12 games on his BSD with the new mix. Killer set up, and revamped mix is spectacular. You feel like you’re playing the friggin movie.

Luckily I brought a new flash drive to get a clean copy burned in person. Uploaded that bad boy to mine as soon as I got home. Haven’t stopped playing it since.

A few more mods installed in BSD. Medisinyl makes some amazing stuff, I also installed all of his mods on the Alice Cooper. They look like they should have been there from the factory, just awesome!

27B043C3-0E4B-44D0-AE57-49621BE2B5F9 (resized).jpeg

88F4B865-9ABC-4878-A4AB-1AF4A23A2738 (resized).jpeg

C3CC27C2-5CC4-4CA2-8E5F-A22E8855EBB5 (resized).jpeg

D39617DD-0BDA-493A-8B18-415C8D8B6245 (resized).jpeg

...duplicate post, previous post edited and added paint color...

I did a flipper rebuild and at the same time replaced the flipper coils with the correct coils.

But now I find the flippers too strong the right flipper shoots the ball round the ramp and its so fast it manages to bounce out of the ramp end and drains 50% of the time.

Any suggestions?

Try and add an energy absorbing bumper to the end of the ramp, felt or a cabinet bumper

You’re gonna need new rubbers for that thing by the time you get it back together.

Haha, that was an old picture. It is all together and playing, just before Halloween with the new mix. Now it has mirror blades, those vinyl blades were a major pain, Dracula just chewed them up.
FB7F8BCC-4D6E-429B-8902-8E0640006127 (resized).jpeg
BB8D3338-DC72-453A-88D0-B443CEA784A8 (resized).jpeg

Can you post a better pic of your apron? Also would like to see how the LED strips look under the main ramp

Haha...Game looks awesome man! Very nice job.

Do you have good clearance down the sides for your mirror blades? I was going to put some on mine, but it looks a little tight on the right side.

Thanks, it is all tight but I am liking the stainless over the vinyl decals. My playfield does move a little side to side, when it gets crooked that is what I have to try to avoid.

Here you go, I took the image from the playfield, added to it, cleaned it up & took it to a local printer, he printed it on vinyl and I put it on a craft magnet, the colors aren’t perfect but I can’t bring myself to take it off. I did not use the LED strips because I ended up going mostly purple. I believe earlier in this thread davebart5 posted what his looks like, the idea came from him & I think he is pleased with the strips
6A1B4B38-F3E8-4A39-A314-3CC6AB7CA6B2 (resized).jpeg

Of course LEDs don't photograph well and the images below aren't of the highest quality, but it looks brilliant in person. The close-up photo is the closest to what it looks like in person, as you can see all of the colors and art defined in the lightning bolt. It feels as if it should've been that way all along. I had a photo of my install setup with the ramp off, but can't locate it right now.

I took two (10) led warm white Comet matrix strips and plugged each into the two sockets under the main ramp. I stuck one just under the clearance of the front part of the main ramp and positioned the second angularly to follow the lightning bolt art in the ramp.

The key is to start the second strip after the metal spacer that's under the ramp since it'll block the light, and make sure your wires are all flat and tucked under something, since they will cast a shadow.

Next time I'm under there I may attach a matrix dimmer switch to them, but that's only for versatility, I absolutely love the way it looks and can never go back to the two lonely light spots under there.

IMG_1184 (resized).jpeg
45b57485-6e3c-43a4-a4a3-99d7e1b9310b.jpg
IMG_0426 (resized).JPEG

Had a row out that was causing the shooter lane switch to not register, bats to start on their own (castle optos), coffin ramp issues, etc. (everything associated with that row) Was intermittent for awhile, but ultimately stopped working completely.

Was able to seemingly isolate the issue to the MPU board by pulling connectors and getting the same result at the pins (didn't see cold solder or connection problems at the time and reconnected everything with no additional issue).

Last night I replaced the U20 chip to see if it would change anything (no other changes other than this swap [didn't lift the playfield between, etc.])... blew F104 and F105 and the DMD wasn't showing anything. Replaced fuses and checked all the connectors. Turned the game on again (mistake) and it immediately popped off. No blown fuses I can see, but now the game is stone dead. No response at all from the power switch, no lights on the boards.

Driver board is Rottendog as well as the DMD. Other boards likely original.

Figured I'd ask here for a head start if there are any ideas.

Seems crazy to just replace that chip and kill the machine

Any suggestions will be appreciated.

Did you check to see if you blew the line fuse? Are you getting line voltage to the Driver board? Did you test F113, the 5v logic fuse?

Varistor on line in blown?

07EB1F94-8220-49F1-827C-7D4F7055A033 (resized).png

Currently away until Sunday night, but thank you for some direction for when I get back.

Didn't have much time to troubleshoot, so I only checked what was visible at the boards and under the playfield and couldn't see anything obvious.

Will do some proper tests this week.

Thank you!

Can’t find anywhere to buy the plastics set
They stop making them?
Thanks

Not a set, but , I just bought sling and the plastic above the three targets in the middle of the play field from Macro.

Fitted lightning flippers this week, it had black standard fitted by someone else. Gap between flippers looked a bit small before.

Had a strange fault happen just now, for no reason it will drop the mist ball from the right hand side during a game. In magnet test mode it came up flasher and light fault a couple of times. Opto’s tested ok on switch edge. Never had this happen before and have played lots of games. After doing tests and looking at connections it played Ok, will play again later and see what happens. Long range opto and coin door switch was mentioned by someone.
Any ideas?

Just ordered PinSound board and speakers which is typical.
3FCBDE80-5B20-4A0E-83E1-7E2F656F7D3D (resized).jpeg

Bummer I just pulled my Drac apart to treasure cove polish it I assumed they had the plastics hahahaha
Oh well I had a set before I gave them away when I sold my last one

How is the color on the slings I just bought a set of sling plastic off ebay and the color is terrible. They are like a very pale blue, more grey. Are the ones from Marco a nice blue that matches?

Does anyone have a list of bulbs/colours that I need to order to replace all mine with led’s?

Cheers

https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/noflix-pinball-leds/placement-specifications/3191/noflix-at-bram-stoker-s-dracula?c=2828

Create an account, add to basket and they will send you the pdf file of what you need free.

On the slings, actually the blue looks darker. I noticed it when I installed. On the center piece , the reds are close , but the purple is darker. Either way look much better then broken plastics. Pics show old versus replacements

image (resized).jpg

image (resized).jpg

image (resized).jpg

The blue color on the playfield varied depending on the manufacturer (Lenc Smith or Sun Process), so there seem to be color variations in the sling plastics as well to match.

Here is my new compared to original

60CB2AC9-FB91-4FF5-BF21-2F0FDEA4EF08 (resized).jpeg

Yikes, that’s quite a difference. Like someone previously mentioned though - it’s way better than having a broken plastic.

Yeah that will teach me for using eBay, better than broken but not by much, I guess I'll give Marco a try they look better.

Wow that is way off.

Yep.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bram-stokers-dracula-clubmembers-only/page/47#post-2255616

If post #2237 doesn't fix it, look at the very next post #2238.

Yeah, PPS & Jeff at Classic Arcades did a few runs of these (and sell on eBay) where the blue is off and the yellow border is way off (light yellow compared to the original dark mustard yellow). I’ve heard Marco plastics match pretty well.