No opto is triggering in the middle of the playfield. The only opto that is registering is the left opto where the ball ends after Mist. The cross playfield opto, as well as the ‘hold’ opto on the right is not working in test.

Based on research, it seems it could be the opto itself, or I need to replace some components on the ‘small’ board, or replace the big opto board with the HomePin replacement... hmm.

Incredible, even screened plastics!

Because the new Dracula head has a longer beard it sits a little higher when compared to the original head. I positioned the side decal further down to make sure the head is not partially covered by the side rail.

That looks awsome!

Thankyou for the head graphic...and about 20 other people for putting up with me through the planning and building so far!!

http://www.davidhouchin.com/blog/dracula-mist-ball/

It could be that the emitter (transmitter...the one with the purple light) and receiver on the other side of the PF are not properly lined up. Trust me, it can happen. I loosened my receiver and moved it side to side with someone else swiping their hand across the PF, and eventually, I got them lined up. One or two others here have reported the ball being continuously launched into the mist holding gate, only to be dropped out 5 seconds later and found that misalignment of the opto transmitter and receiver was their sole problem.

Most of the time, if the board is bad, it is because the L1 (inductor) component on the board has failed or the soldering joints have failed.

All that being said, if you experiment with realigning the optos to no avail, I'd buy the board to "know" that is covered.. Worst case: you have a nice new updated board to replaced a 25+ year old board.

https://www.pinballlife.com/24-opto-replacement-board-a-15646.html

You've been great and I appreciate you covering a topic that has been covered so many times before. I'll do some troubleshooting and will come back with an update Thank you!

you can always send the original opto board in for repairs and upgrades to any board tech for probably 30-50$ as well. i did that, was happy after i bailed and got a refund for that horrible replacement board HomePin or whatever that australian/china company name is.

They are quite thin so it should be barely noticeable. Obviously the better choice is to get the full set of new cabinet decals.

looks like CPR just put up the BSD Backglass with Custom Mirroring....
https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-backglasses/bsd-glass/

And purchased The SoF glass was a huge upgrade IMO, and my BSD has had a burn hole on Dracs face that I'm glad I'll finally remedy.
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When you get this installed can you provide a pic? I really like this, although my translite is in great shape.

Will do

I think a mirrored BG is going to look awesome in this game.

Ordered this and CFTBL.

Look forward to installing them when I return home in January!

I need to replace my connector that controls the launch ball button. It’s the “cabinet switches” J212 on the MPU. Can someone link me to the correct connector on Marcos website? I’m not sure what size to order.

So my plunger/auto launch seems to get the ball to rattle right after hit goes up the steel flap sometimes and comes back down the shooter lane. It always eventually makes it up on a second or third attempt, but is kind of annoying. Anyone else had this problem and any suggestions on possible solutions?

Is it hitting the plastic lip right at the top of the incline? Is your coil strong?

These.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=68

The clear plastic above the shooter lane is installed backwards. The long side should be pointing toward you, not the back of the game.

What kind of lighting are you using on this panel and what are you tieing into for power ?

I redid the clear plastics and slingshot protectors in UV red, the LED's really make it pop and change the color near the flippers!

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Hi guys, looking for an alt translite I saw and artblades bjt can't find the ones I want on the usual websites (mezel, pingraffix...)

Any idea of a website to check?

Hi all. New owner here! I am having issues with two optos, and it seems like they are related because one tends to trigger the other in test. Switch 73 left ramp entry and 53 castle lock 1. They will just freak out seemingly randomly.

I have cleaned the optos with 99% isopropyl alcohol.

Video:

I had the same issue, and it was a problem with the 10-switch opto board. I tried reflowing a lot of solder joints and replaced the capacitor, but no luck. I eventually gave in and bought a replacement (https://www.pinballlife.com/10-opto-replacement-board-a-15430.html).

Ok cool. Will be easy to verify if the board fixes it since my WCS has one also.

Update: yes it does seem to work fine when I swapped the boards. Hoping I can repair it as it’s a $100 board. I think it’s one of the 339 chips.

By the way, thanks for chiming in kevinleedrum this kind of help makes pinside awesome. Probably saved me a lot of troubleshooting, along with unnecessarily replacing optos.

Ebay

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Soooo glad I checked the thread tonight!!!...ordered as well...suspect it will look amazing!!

I ordered one as well. Hopefully get it in a few weeks!

Backglass ordered.....guess I'll have a spare repro translite for sale at some point!

I am very slowly working through rewiring my BSD playfield. Some previous owner rewired it all but half-assed with wires running all over the place. I'm completely rewiring it partly for fun/education....lucky it's a long winter coming up in Canada!

I have another BSD sitting beside it for reference.

Had exact same issue also...reflowing fixed nothing, so bit the bullet also for a new board which fixed it.

Need your input....price check on a nice bsd. Fully shopped , radkal decals, no errors color dmd, leds some powdercoating. Drac mod. Game looks great but nowhere near original look. Whar kind of realistic value would you put on it? thanks

I would never give a realistic value on a game without being able to look inside the head, inside the cabinet and under the playfield. Most anyone can make the outside look nice. Sometimes the inside can be a disaster.

Anyone else have any input?. All the electronics etc have been gone through. Plays 100percent. Just trying to get an idea from other bsd owners about values and thoughts on pin . Thanks again.

$3600-$3800 with color DMD and new decals. Of course the Playfield is the key to everything, which can drive price up or down.

i don't think you could buy a dracula that plays well without a credit dot for less than 3k these days.

looking for a nice bsd to trade for my nba fb

Thanks everyone. Kinda where i was at 3800 t0 4g. Anyone have one available let me know. Seller is firm at 4500.

You may want to indicate where you are if you're trying to finding cheaper. A $4,000 BSD shipped could be close to that $4,500 price point.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/86233

When in Europe, 2200-3000 Euro

Did some stalking and I believe Ozzy is in South Florida if that helps.

Just got my mirrored back glass today...Staggering!!!! A couple shots from my phone....Used comet warm whites for gis, and cool clears for blinkers....Just beautiful....

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Wow, I’m a little surprised. Someone in the JackBot owner thread got a mirrored backglass from CPR and says it was a major disappointment. Can you read this post and see if you can see it in your BSD backglass?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jackbot-club-everyone-welcome/page/13#post-5272969

I don’t know about all that Todd. From the pictures that MK6PIN posted above, it doesn’t seem like his is too grainy at all compared with what the guy said in the JackBot thread. Glass looks pretty damn good to me.

MK, you able to lock the backbox lock, or is the backglass larger than the translite?

The lines look pretty crisp on BSD. Especially the Williams logo and the Drac letters in the close-up shot (3rd pic above). The guy in the JB thread didn’t post any pics either.

Man....nothing further from the truth on mine....lines sharp, colors rich, mirror is beautiful......