(Topic ID: 29878)

Bram Stokers Dracula Club....Welcome to the Carpathians


By shacklersrevenge

7 years ago



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#6851 5 months ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

I think I used quarter-inch spacers on the left and right speaker, for the clearance for the tweeter but also because I have speaker lights.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Colsond3 when you mounted the smaller speaker, the PL42BL, I'm assuming you installed new self drilling screws? As the footprint of this speaker is much larger than the original and the mounting holes don't line up.

The 2nd photo shows the original smaller speaker sitting on top of the new replacement speaker.
20190923_193712 (resized).jpg20190923_193654 (resized).jpg

#6852 5 months ago
Quoted from TDEX:

the last "A" and yes they are led's

I would start to be suspicious of cold solder joints on the driver board. Neither of the lights is on the same row or column otherwise you'd have other lights that didn't work, so it doesn't appear to be a logic issue.

The 4 header pin areas I would look at next on the power driver board are J133-4, J133-9, J137-2 and J137-4.

Report back.

#6853 5 months ago
Quoted from Pinballer73:

I'm assuming you installed new self drilling screws? As the footprint of this speaker is much larger than the original and the mounting holes don't line up.

Yes. I just installed these speakers in my BSD a couple of months ago as well. Got them for my Shadow too - huge improvement!

#6854 5 months ago
Quoted from Pinballer73:

Colsond3 when you mounted the smaller speaker, the PL42BL, I'm assuming you installed new self drilling screws? As the footprint of this speaker is much larger than the original and the mounting holes don't line up.
The 2nd photo shows the original smaller speaker sitting on top of the new replacement speaker.

I believe I did use new screws. I can double check later and get back to you.

#6855 5 months ago

Looks like I did from pics in my phone...

D51844EF-B71C-4B63-AD6F-F4373236E4FE (resized).jpegEFC2B3E9-9ECD-4FAC-B8ED-528EB5DC5691 (resized).jpeg
#6856 5 months ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

Looks like I did from pics in my phone...[quoted image][quoted image]

Do these make that much of a difference? I had some flipper fidelitys on my funhouse and they sounded like crap.

#6857 5 months ago
Quoted from Nihonmasa:

Finally joined the club!
Have one small question: is it possible to have different musics depending on the roms?
Cause it seems like mine don't have the same ones as the ones I hear in the videos like Bowen's tutorial.
Bonus question: what are the alternatives to the figure in the coffin?

Bump

#6858 5 months ago
Quoted from mollyspub:

Do these make that much of a difference? I had some flipper fidelitys on my funhouse and they sounded like crap.

I was just looking at the flipper fidelity speaker set for my BSD. Has anyone else found better or ?

#6859 5 months ago
Quoted from mollyspub:

Do these make that much of a difference? I had some flipper fidelitys on my funhouse and they sounded like crap.

In my opinion they make a big difference. And you don’t need a $150-$200 set of speakers.

#6860 5 months ago

Pinball pros and flipper fidelity speakers never made a difference to me compared to doing some homework and buying $25 sets of speakers.

#6861 5 months ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

Looks like I did from pics in my phone...[quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks for the confirmation. Initially I thought I'd ordered the wrong size when the mounting holes didn't line up. What did you use as spacers between the speaker and the timber panel?

#6862 5 months ago

Just had a great game, best yet!
88B73037-3E08-42D4-8008-E5BD1F6FCBBC (resized).jpeg

#6863 5 months ago
Quoted from Pinballer73:

Thanks for the confirmation. Initially I thought I'd ordered the wrong size when the mounting holes didn't line up. What did you use as spacers between the speaker and the timber panel?

Rubber grommets. Also prevents any potential rattling.

#6864 5 months ago

ok I used the alligator clips and found the "A" had current very positional. I think I have to build up solder on the light board.
it works for a bit then when I move table back down it goes out. The "D" however doesn't have current. I used the DMM for voltage and got nothing. the "R" next to it registered voltage. not sure what I am looking for with the header pins. cracks?

#6865 5 months ago
Quoted from TDEX:

ok I used the alligator clips and found the "A" had current very positional. I think I have to build up solder on the light board.
it works for a bit then when I move table back down it goes out. The "D" however doesn't have current. I used the DMM for voltage and got nothing. the "R" next to it registered voltage. not sure what I am looking for with the header pins. cracks?

Quoted from tktlwyr:

I would start to be suspicious of cold solder joints on the driver board. Neither of the lights is on the same row or column otherwise you'd have other lights that didn't work, so it doesn't appear to be a logic issue.
The 4 header pin areas I would look at next on the power driver board are J133-4, J133-9, J137-2 and J137-4.
Report back.

#6866 5 months ago
Quoted from TDEX:

ok I used the alligator clips and found the "A" had current very positional. I think I have to build up solder on the light board.
it works for a bit then when I move table back down it goes out. The "D" however doesn't have current. I used the DMM for voltage and got nothing. the "R" next to it registered voltage. not sure what I am looking for with the header pins. cracks?

Connector J133 drives the lamp board and is interchangeable with J134 and J135 and complete the path to ground. Swap the connector on J133 to either J134 or J135 and see if there’s any change on the “D”. If ”D” now lights, reflow some solder on the back side of the header pins for J133. I’d probably carefully flow solder on all three sets of header pins since they are interchangeable and I’m not sure if these connectors are on their properly numbered headers on the board. This may fix the “A”, as well.

Connector J137 powers the lamp board. This connector is interchangeable with J138. If “A” is still lighting due to playfield position, swap J137 with J138. If this fixes “A”, reflow on J137 and J138 as above.

Report back.

#6867 5 months ago

well, my saga continues over here. i was in the backbox last night, preparing to install my new game rom. i started checking connectors, since everyone was saying i had a short possibly with the pinsound fun the other day. noticed several connectors, maybe more, that were real loose. i got all pushed in the whole way and fired up the game. did not swap roms, btw.

i immediately notice that all my inserts are brighter. i can even feel heat over the dracula letters. some bulbs weren't working at all, but they're not burnt out. i can swap lights on the same board underneath and the out is at the socket, not the bulb. i tried playing a game and i'm getting massive ghosting. it's not even ghosting, honestly. inserts are fully lit, coming on and off. game is basically unplayable, imo. they work fine in test, but the out sockets are still off.

so i'm going to try some different bulbs first. i have the cheapest bulbs i own in there currently: comet flattops. if i still get the same behavior from 5050's, do you think it would be worth trying some non-ghosting? i never bought any of those. if you have any other ideas, let me know, please.

one thing i do know, i'm probably going to run the other way the next time i see a game with replacement boards. maybe i'm overreacting, and there's a proverbial hump i'll get over at some point, but this has been a nightmare. definitely more than i thought i was getting into. hopefully i can get through the issues, because i'll get smoked if i try to get rid of it. i paid a lot. ugh.

#6868 5 months ago
Quoted from weaverj:

well, my saga continues over here. i was in the backbox last night, preparing to install my new game rom. i started checking connectors, since everyone was saying i had a short possibly with the pinsound fun the other day. noticed several connectors, maybe more, that were real loose. i got all pushed in the whole way and fired up the game. did not swap roms, btw.
i immediately notice that all my inserts are brighter. i can even feel heat over the dracula letters. some bulbs weren't working at all, but they're not burnt out. i can swap lights on the same board underneath and the out is at the socket, not the bulb. i tried playing a game and i'm getting massive ghosting. it's not even ghosting, honestly. inserts are fully lit, coming on and off. game is basically unplayable, imo. they work fine in test, but the out sockets are still off.
so i'm going to try some different bulbs first. i have the cheapest bulbs i own in there currently: comet flattops. if i still get the same behavior from 5050's, do you think it would be worth trying some non-ghosting? i never bought any of those. if you have any other ideas, let me know, please.
one thing i do know, i'm probably going to run the other way the next time i see a game with replacement boards. maybe i'm overreacting, and there's a proverbial hump i'll get over at some point, but this has been a nightmare. definitely more than i thought i was getting into. hopefully i can get through the issues, because i'll get smoked if i try to get rid of it. i paid a lot. ugh.

Unless you have the patched ROM file or LED OCD, you will have ghosting/flickering/strobing with LEDs. I am not familiar with Comet "flattops". It could also be a diode issue in the lamp matrix that's exasperating the situation. If it's a diode issue, lamps would be on all the time and most likely on more than one lamp. Any flickering/strobing is probably just the LEDs.

We can chase the bulbs that are out similar to what I am explaining to TDEX, however, this probably won't fix the ghosting/flickering/strobing. You would need to take additional steps on your end to narrow the ghosting/flickering/strobing issue down. Some video may help diagnose the situation (BTW, I highly recommend the LED OCD boards in this game. I have both the LED OCD and GI OCD in mine and have ZERO regrets).

What bulbs are out? Do regular bulbs react the same way as LEDs or do they work properly? What replacement boards are you running since the PinSound board is out of the game? Was this an issue when you purchased the game or have you changed things leading to the problem, i.e. adding the Comet LEDs?

Since you had loose connectors, I'd start with the manual and make sure all the connectors are on their proper headers on their respective boards and snug, including the ribbon cables. Ribbon cables installed off a row/column can wreak havoc.

#6869 5 months ago

i had very minor ghosting before last night, but i would happily play the game. like i said, it's unplayable in its current state. you have no idea of your progress of any game features.

it's like pushing in these connectors turned the brightness up on everything. only thing i can think of is i was getting 3-4 volts before from the loose connections, but now i'm getting the full 5, and the bulbs don't like it. the full on/off ghosting is basically all inserts. way more than one.

i have the same bulbs in my TOM. no issues. i've actually used these on almost every pin i've owned. no issues. a little ghosting on my sterns, but wpc's love em. i've never needed to install an ocd board.

all boards except the sound board are rottendog replacements. lights were fine before last night, except a very small ghost flicker. i'd say i've had it almost two months now. all i did was tighten connectors.

#6870 5 months ago

dupe.

#6871 5 months ago
Quoted from weaverj:

i had very minor ghosting before last night, but i would happily play the game. like i said, it's unplayable in its current state. you have no idea of your progress of any game features.
it's like pushing in these connectors turned the brightness up on everything. only thing i can think of is i was getting 3-4 volts before from the loose connections, but now i'm getting the full 5, and the bulbs don't like it. the full on/off ghosting is basically all inserts. way more than one.
i have the same bulbs in my TOM. no issues. i've actually used these on almost every pin i've owned. no issues. a little ghosting on my sterns, but wpc's love em. i've never needed to install an ocd board.
all boards except the sound board are rottendog replacements. lights were fine before last night, except a very small ghost flicker. i'd say i've had it almost two months now. all i did was tighten connectors.

Controlled lamps are on the +18VDC circuit that strobes many times per second to get the voltage down to down to +6 volts. If a transistor has shorted on, a row or column of lamps will be turned on for a longer time, and hence be brighter.

What lamps are on all the time? Go into single lamp test mode and test each controlled lamp. What lamps don’t work? Do certain lamps light multiple lamps in the test mode? If so, which ones?

#6872 5 months ago

Had to pull/reinstall my driver board.
Could someone post a pic of what you have plugged into J116,117,118,119?

#6873 5 months ago

Williams_1993_Bram_Stoker_s_Dracula_English_Manual.pdf

#6874 5 months ago
Quoted from gliebig:

Had to pull/reinstall my driver board.
Could someone post a pic of what you have plugged into J116,117,118,119?

A fine tipped sharpie will make this less painful next time (label each female connector on the side).

#6875 5 months ago

before my pull down

20190926_060358 (resized).jpg
#6876 5 months ago

Thanks fellas.
I figured it out. Could've sworn I edited my other post.

#6877 5 months ago
Quoted from tktlwyr:

Controlled lamps are on the +18VDC circuit that strobes many times per second to get the voltage down to down to +6 volts. If a transistor has shorted on, a row or column of lamps will be turned on for a longer time, and hence be brighter.
What lamps are on all the time? Go into single lamp test mode and test each controlled lamp. What lamps don’t work? Do certain lamps light multiple lamps in the test mode? If so, which ones?

no controlled lamps are on all the time, but they're all brighter. what i was trying to explain when i said on/off, and it's just my theory, is that the level or intensity of the ghosting has risen proportionately to the aforementioned brightness increase. makes sense, right? i imagine they'd go hand in hand. this has turned my minor ghosting issue, which i didn't mind much, into inserts appearing to fully come on and off. example, you hit the start button, and the yellow dracula letter inserts will start coming on and off. again, i don't think they actually are, i think the ghosting intensity has increased to the point where they look like they're on. and in my world, the game is unplayable at that point.

i will get a list of which inserts don't work, btw. ty.

#6878 5 months ago

yeah, things are deteriorating.

i went into single bulb test. first thing, 01 unused, i have 7 inserts lighting: left skill, left coffin lock, video-v, dracula-c, rat hole, right inlane and the coffin manikin head bulb. i can give you more examples, if needed. same behavior through the entire list of bulbs basically.

also, test reported 2 balls missing. i found one in the top left popper, which isn't working anymore. bottom jet is out, too. so either i blew more fuses or i'm blowing transistors. fml...

#6879 5 months ago

I had that light intensity on my original afm. I had a short to a solenoid meaning the insert lights wire strand had somehow made contact with the wire of the solenoid. Super bright light show on all the time.

#6880 5 months ago
Quoted from weaverj:

yeah, things are deteriorating.
i went into single bulb test. first thing, 01 unused, i have 7 inserts lighting: left skill, left coffin lock, video-v, dracula-c, rat hole, right inlane and the coffin manikin head bulb. i can give you more examples, if needed. same behavior through the entire list of bulbs basically.
also, test reported 2 balls missing. i found one in the top left popper, which isn't working anymore. bottom jet is out, too. so either i blew more fuses or i'm blowing transistors. fml...

Let's get the lamps sorted out and then we can work on the solenoids which sounds like it may be switch issues.

All those lamps are in the same row. Start looking at Q90. If a transistor shorts on in the lamp matrix, it can make all the lamps in that row or column appear permanently on and very bright. To test a TIP102 transistor make sure the game is off and set up DMM to test continuity. Put one lead on the ground strap in the backbox. Touch the other lead to the metal tab on the TIP102 transistor at Q90. If getting zero ohms/buzz/beep, the transistor is shorted on and bad.

#6881 5 months ago
Quoted from neverahighscore:

I had that light intensity on my original afm. I had a short to a solenoid meaning the insert lights wire strand had somehow made contact with the wire of the solenoid. Super bright light show on all the time.

actually, this got me thinking. the bottom left popper power line came off almost right when i got this thing. i thought i'd be smart and pop the wire in through the inner hole on the coil base and tie it off temporarily. it worked. i forgot about it. never went back and fixed it correctly.

so i just pulled that off and soldered it to the outside lug. i powered up and all coils locked on like it did that one time with the pinsound board. i'm assuming that coil is just f'd at this point, right? i could pull that wire off and see where i'm at now?

#6882 5 months ago

i tried that q90 test and didn't get anything. actually i got nothing to any transistor i tried. are you sure that's how you test those?

#6883 5 months ago
Quoted from weaverj:

i tried that q90 test and didn't get anything. actually i got nothing to any transistor i tried. are you sure that's how you test those?

Per Clay Harrell:

A lamp row is either very bright or dead:

The TIP102 for that row is most likely dead or locked on. The LM339 comparator is the next component to check. Occasionally the 74LS74 can cause a problem. Hint: a fast way to tell if the TIP102 transistor is defective is to ground the tab of the transistor. If grounding the tab and nothing happens, the transistor is probably good. If grounding the tab and the row lights, the transistor is probably bad.

So if the transistor is good, we have other places to look.

#6884 5 months ago

I swapped out j133 to j134 no go on "D"". then swapped j133 to j 135 no change. j135 had a connector with 2 wires in it.
plugged that into j134.no change. the "A" works very well for a short time then goes out and doesn't come back on. the "D"
doesn't work at all. I really appreciate your help. I also swapped j137 with j138. same results.

Quoted from tktlwyr:

Connector J133 powers the lamp board and is interchangeable with J134 and J135. Swap the connector on J133 to either J134 or J135 and see if there’s any change on the “D”. If ”D” now lights, reflow some solder on the back side of the header pins for J133. I’d probably carefully flow solder on all three sets of header pins since they are interchangeable and I’m not sure if these connectors are on their properly numbered headers on the board. This may fix the “A”, as well.
Connector J137 drives the lamp board, ie completes the path to the transistors, which complete the path to ground. This connector is interchangeable with J138. If “A” is still lighting due to playfield position, swap J137 with J138. If this fixes “A”, reflow on J137 and J138 as above.
Report back.

#6885 5 months ago

wait, was i supposed to try that test while powered on?

what about that coil? disconnect that thing, right?

#6886 5 months ago

btw, i blew 104 and 105, again. 112 was fine this time.

#6887 5 months ago

didn't replace those fuses yet, but did disconnect that popper coil. now the only inserts that work are start, launch, rat hole, dracula a, mystery, mist multiball, castle jackbot. noticed some gi out in the backbox, too. hopefully i'm not just chasing my tail around here.

#6888 5 months ago

if anyone has an idea of where to start, i'd appreciate it. id prefer not to make things worse, if at all possible. thank you.

if this is going to be a complete pita to go through, i'll just outsource it. i have no problems paying someone for this kind of thing.

#6889 5 months ago
Quoted from weaverj:

if this is going to be a complete pita to go through, i'll just outsource it. i have no problems paying someone for this kind of thing.

Sounds like a lot was done to it before you bought it, including the replacement boards. Sounds like somebody may have done some funky things with your game. Can you go back to the guy you bought it from?

#6890 5 months ago

i imagine i screwed it up when i rigged that coil control/signal wire fix, no?

#6891 5 months ago

What may also be at issue here is that the lamp board under the DRACULA letters and the lamp board under the Cross are notorious for cracked solder on the header pins and divots in the pads. I have owned 3 BSDs and worked on several more, and I always pull these two lamp boards and reflow the solder on all of the header pins and pads as well, and check them all with a DMM on continuity.

THey never work 100% unless I do that.

RussM

Quoted from weaverj:

well, my saga continues over here. i was in the backbox last night, preparing to install my new game rom. i started checking connectors, since everyone was saying i had a short possibly with the pinsound fun the other day. noticed several connectors, maybe more, that were real loose. i got all pushed in the whole way and fired up the game. did not swap roms, btw.
i immediately notice that all my inserts are brighter. i can even feel heat over the dracula letters. some bulbs weren't working at all, but they're not burnt out. i can swap lights on the same board underneath and the out is at the socket, not the bulb. i tried playing a game and i'm getting massive ghosting. it's not even ghosting, honestly. inserts are fully lit, coming on and off. game is basically unplayable, imo. they work fine in test, but the out sockets are still off.
so i'm going to try some different bulbs first. i have the cheapest bulbs i own in there currently: comet flattops. if i still get the same behavior from 5050's, do you think it would be worth trying some non-ghosting? i never bought any of those. if you have any other ideas, let me know, please.
one thing i do know, i'm probably going to run the other way the next time i see a game with replacement boards. maybe i'm overreacting, and there's a proverbial hump i'll get over at some point, but this has been a nightmare. definitely more than i thought i was getting into. hopefully i can get through the issues, because i'll get smoked if i try to get rid of it. i paid a lot. ugh.

#6892 5 months ago

yeah, this is my second BSD. i know what you're talking about. behavior doesn't match that theory and they were fine for almost two months. oh well. i'll call in the pros. no biggy.

#6893 5 months ago

Hey All -

I know this has been covered a zillion times, but hoping for some very pointed guidance for the mist issue I'm having. In test, I'm getting a magnet load and power issue. It seems the opto on the left is registering in test, but the 'hold' opto on the right (opto transmitter?) is not working. In short, upon game start up, the ball keeps launching into the magnet ball hold area. It stays there for about 5 seconds until the ball gate opens and releases the ball. This continues to cycle over and over again.

I read a lot about the homepin board replacement, but maybe my transmitter opto is just not working? I looked through the front of my camera and saw a 'blue light' emit from it when the game was on, then fade out when the game is turned off.

Any advice is appreciated!

#6894 4 months ago
Quoted from MiamiRedSkin:

Hey All -
I know this has been covered a zillion times, but hoping for some very pointed guidance for the mist issue I'm having. In test, I'm getting a magnet load and power issue. It seems the opto on the left is registering in test, but the 'hold' opto on the right (opto transmitter?) is not working. In short, upon game start up, the ball keeps launching into the magnet ball hold area. It stays there for about 5 seconds until the ball gate opens and releases the ball. This continues to cycle over and over again.
I read a lot about the homepin board replacement, but maybe my transmitter opto is just not working? I looked through the front of my camera and saw a 'blue light' emit from it when the game was on, then fade out when the game is turned off.
Any advice is appreciated!

Put the game in switch test mode.

Take the mist ball out of the right gate. Take your hand and run it across the middle of the PF. Do you hear an audible "beep" of your hand breaking the opto beam?

You should be able to run your hand (from the coin door towards the ramp entrances) back and forth each direction and hear an audible beep of the opto beam being broken over and over again.

#6895 4 months ago

I made some decals to go over the ultra low resolution Dracula head of the original cabinet decals. One for coin door and two for side decals. This is for those who do not want to fully redecal their cabinets.
US$22.50 including postage World wide.

IMG_20190918_090005 (resized).jpgIMG_20190923_134114 (resized).jpg
#6896 4 months ago
Quoted from BioBa:

Very happy with my "blood" red trim colour to match my new high resolution decals.
I left the coin door black as a contrast and I think the door in red would have been too much.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I'm digging these decals, but is the image off due to the way these are produced, or installation? It's also missing a chunk of the art at the bottom of the cabinet. I borrowed this image from the gallery, but factory games all have the decals lined up as one image with the extra artwork at the bottom.

Awaiting the CPR backglass, and may decide to overhaul these other aspects afterward (BSD currently in a line-up, but will be on its own when GB leaves). These decals seem to be a good candidate if they can be installed with the factory alignment and artwork.

bsdd (resized).jpg
#6897 4 months ago

I'm doing a custom "gothic edition",
Cab nearly finished just waiting on custom playfield now.

20190803_051543 (resized).jpgCapture (resized).JPG20190803_051548 (resized).jpgCapture (resized).JPG20190811_180226 (resized).jpg20190802_194328 (resized).jpg
#6898 4 months ago

more pics

20190803_052132 (resized).jpg20190906_164519 (resized).jpg20190831_104258 (resized).jpg
#6899 4 months ago

whoa.

#6900 4 months ago
Quoted from Jakusu:

more pics[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks great!

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