Are all the optos in BSD the same? I heard reference to long range optos that goes across the playfield for the magnet, however, with my game currently under construction, it looks to me like that opto is no different than the others, with the exception of the black one having an extra piece of black housing. Plus the manual does not list any different part number. Thanks for any and all help.

Couple of mods I made for my first bsd around 2011 out of McFarlane figures. Thought I had sold them with the game but found them in storage.

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is it normal that the usb stick gets hot? i've never had one that got this hot, or hot at all, honestly. maybe this sandisk just is a pos.

i'm trying the install right now with unzip'd folder, hazzard. ty.

it's just getting worse at this point. now i powered it on and it looked like all the coils locked on and i blew 3 fuses. uninstalling board. now i get to see if anything else blew up. fml.

everything works in test, but some weird stuff happens during game play now. going to try a factory reset...

i think i'm okay now. coffin lock ramp was going up without me hitting the shot 5 times, but i noticed you get one credited shot at the start of each ball. going to keep an eye on it though.

i'm going to let pinsound know which fuses i blew. this outta be good.

i played a decent amount last night. everything seems okay. i'm going to order a replacement game rom for sanity purposes.

anything else you guys can think of that i should test? i'm just totally paranoid at this point. i was getting the game really dialed in and was very happy with it before this. if i replace the rom, and all the coils/switches work, i should be good? i want to go over it with a fine tooth comb. i'm very anal with gameplay.

Each time you hit the skill shot, you are credited with both a Coffin ramp shot (if it's not already open) and a werewolf V-I-D-E-O letter. This is not a game malfunction.

As for the fuses, locked on coils, etc, power for the coils and power for the sound are on different circuits and are probably not related.

i put the original board back in and everything is fine. why is that?

I have had this game for about a year and did not know you get credit for the ramp shot for a skill shot. That makes the skill shot that more important. I have been just disregarding the skill shot because the points are pretty small when your going for a billion or so.

I can't tell you without knowing what fuses blew and you didn't indicate. In terms of electrical signal, you've got +12V (fuse F115), ground and 2 lines out, one for the backbox and one for the cabinet speakers.

I've got some friends who are top ranked players who weren't even a way of this until I showed them. Why only going for a billion?

Haha, thats funny. I am going for a billion because I close to getting it, then going higher.

Some people should go watch Bowen's tutorial on this game on YT. Lots of good stuff there.

Is this the one from papaTV, if so I have watched that quite a few times. But he just mentions the points in the skill shot not getting a letter and ramp shot.

my bad. f104, 105 and 112.

Those 3 fuses all deal with solenoids and all 3 are on the same electrical path as each other.

According to the schematic, the sound board gets its power from a completely different and unrelated electrical path.

Since the WPC PinSound boards use the same electrical connections as the OEM board, my bet is that you may have shorted something or installed something incorrectly.

The long beam opto is a different part from the others.

wouldn't a short blow fuses immediately? i didn't start blowing fuses until day 2 of troubleshooting.

Depends on the short.

yeah, i'm not saying i didn't mess something up. do i want to try, again? not really. not after all that. it sucks. just blew, what, $400...

Thanks, any idea what the part number for the long beam opto is?

I have my BSD fully torn apart and I replaced all the standard optos. In looking at the long range ones they look the same with the exception of a bare silver wire (extra ground?) on the black side and an extra empty black side housing that stacks in front of the black housing, almost like a gun sight. Plus a cardboard cover to prevent shorting along the side rails for both black and white optos. They apparently plug into their own opto board.

Pics below...

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According to the manual, the part numbers are the same as the other optos in the game, A-14315 and A-14316.

I also don’t recall having to track down different optos when I tore my game down.

Cool, thanks Dave. I am going to go for the swap out then.

Sucks you had a bad experience with it, because it’s an awesome upgrade. You didn’t install it in the sunlight did you? This guy did, and look what happened to him.

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not direct sunlight.

tbf, i wasn't really digging it anyway. i know that's sacrilege to say around here. i usually lean towards original parts and programming, unless it could pass as oem and/or is just a strict upgrade. not a big mod guy; except TRON . don't really like alt translites. what's that alternate game rom for DM? i didn't really like that either.

Like mollyspub I also bought a Pinshaker for BSD (and ST:TNG).

Fits the theme very well , shaker makes the game even more intense
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i would have been interested in running stock sound through it though, with the stereo rewire.

I say to each their own. That’s what I like about Pinsound. You can toggle back-and-forth between the original audio and the new audio package. So you don’t lose anything that was original, other than the original physical soundboard itself not being in the backbox.

Mine sits happily in a static free bag in a drawer in my gameroom.

Installed my new high resolution custom decals. Back box to follow. Love the intense bood red colour and the high resolution Dracula head.
Printed on new generation air release vinyl too.
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That's great but those so called protectors are going to ruin your new decals !

Not if you use the metal spacer/protector underneath. I like the look of the plastic "protectors" so I always use the metal protectors underneath.

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Sweet looking decals

Where are these decals available? I need a set for my game.

Second that...they look excellent. I'll take a set just to sit in a box until I install them during retirement...or if I ever pick up a second BSD that's a project.

Hello everyone here’s my latest problem.
The “D” and the “A” in dracula wont light up at all. I re soldered the light bar to build up where the light makes contact
And re soldered the coresponding pin in the connector. I’m not an electrician but i think i did a pretty good job with the soldering. Any help would be appreciated.

Could be diode issue on the lamp board. I don't have time to give instructions now, but I'll check in later.

Thanks that would be great

Anybody want this?? $30 shipped. Thats cheap. Shipping alone will cost be 10-12. Thanks

Parts - For Sale

Bram Stoker's Dracula~Graveyard Playfield Plastic~NEW~ Archived

New (selling multiple, business) - “Dracula Pinball playfield plastic. New Free Shipping. Goes in Upper left corner of game. This is a brand spanking new piece.”

2019-09-14

Anaheim, CA

Ericpinballfan

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Which "A" in Dracula won't light?

Also, are the bulbs LEDs or incandescent?

the last "A" and yes they are led's

I did try incandescents to no avail. I checked the diodes with a multi tester they all had continuity.

Very happy with my "blood" red trim colour to match my new high resolution decals.
I left the coin door black as a contrast and I think the door in red would have been too much.

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So today we had been playing Dracula for a few hours. And while we were just sitting there talking pinball it went ball search and the DMD shows two verticle lines and that is it. Has anyone seen this. The game will start although the DMD only show two lines and the flippers are dead. Does this mean the DMD is dead? Would the DMD going dead make the flippers not respond?

If you reverse your DMM leads, do you still get continuity? If so, that's a problem indicative of a bad diode.

Are you sure you are getting voltage to the contact points for the LEDs?

If so, are your LED wire leads making contact on the metal leads within the bulb socket?

Lots of small simple things can cause this issue.

I would make sure the wires in the female connector are delivering the proper voltage. Set your DMM to DC voltage at a reading higher than 12 DVC (most will have 20 DVC as an option). Red DMM lead goes to the voltage wire, black DMM lead goes to the silver wire braid stapled all over the inside of the cabinet. If you're getting voltage, something is funny on the board for the DRACULA letters. If not, you need to determine why you're not getting the necessary voltage.

McLean

Check your 5 and 12 volts DC(I am away from my machine - I think there’s 12 volts too, but I might be wrong)

Finally joined the club!
Have one small question: is it possible to have different musics depending on the roms?
Cause it seems like mine don't have the same ones as the ones I hear in the videos like Bowen's tutorial.

Bonus question: what are the alternatives to the figure in the coffin?

I reversed the leads on every diode on the light board continuity only in one direction. checked the wires in the led's
everything seems ok. checked voltage to hot wire (which is new territory for me) reading 12.8 to 13.4 volts.

Ok, check the where the brass leads of the bulb sockets touch the actual boards. See if you're getting voltage at those lil' pads where the bulb sockets actually lock in place.

If you are, take a bulb, get wire leads with alligator clips on the end. Clip one lead to one of the wires on the bulb, and do the same thing with the other wire lead and wire. With the game on or in light test mode, take the leads and physically touch them to the board where the bulb socket would go. See if the bulb comes on.

What we are doing is eliminating the possibility of having a bad bulb socket (it has happened to me).