I have question and this may not be the best place to get an unbiased opinion. I just picked up a BSD. It's a beat down euro piece. Plastics and ramps look okay. Question is, if I decide to do a mirco playfield and rad cals along with custom powder coat, what's a game like that fetch. Haven't seen any come up for sale and trying to figure out if it's worth it. Have no intention of keeping the game, but I have more fun restoring then playing anyway. Any help is appreciated.

If the cabinet is in good condition and you clean or replace broken or non working pieces, you could probably get between $5,500-$6,000.

Forgot to mention, I did some custom modding on my last BSD. It's a little creepy when he is always staring at you.

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I'm looking for a coffin mod if anyone has an extra

Hi all,

New to the BSD Club, I bought one last weekend! Great game but G*d do I suck!

I was wondering where the ball is supposed to land when ejected from the rat scoop?

On my BSD it ends up hitting the top\head of the right slingshot and not the slingshot itself, nor the right flipper nor the right flipper inlane.

I probably need to level the game more precisely.

Thanks

Chris

As far as I know, that's normal. Centrifugal force keeps it going past, and if slow moving, it will drop due to gravity.

This is normal for a slow moving ball. Every BSD I have played has had this happen while playing.

No, that's normal and you should get a "Secret Passage" award on the DMD.

RM

Hopefully you’re joking.

Mine occasionally hits the top of the right sling, but it mostly hugs the front of the sling and goes down to the right flipper.

It was actually it's a funny story. Had a friend coming to look at some games I had. My son had those glue on eyes for a school project. I put them on all the games I had at the time to mess with him. He ended up buying BSD and dirty harry. Forgot to take eyes off and put them on location.

That is pretty damn funny. I don’t know what I would think if I walked into someone’s game room and saw those eyes on all the games.

damn you guys, getting these BSD's. where's mine?!

You sold it! Remember ???

The best was the t2 playfield hanging on the wall

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I just rebuilt my flippers and sometimes when hitting the castle ramp when it's ready to lock a ball, the ball will fly off the metal ramp. This happens about 10% of the time and curious if anybody else has the same issue? Obviously with the diverter down in the ball going so fast with that angle it's bound to happen but just curious if others have the same issue? The only thing I could think of is the metal ramp is just slightly bent

You missing the clear plastic that goes on top of the ramp? Very common problem. Should be a key post where you can buy new ones.

That seems way high. I'd say more like $4,000-4,500.

He's talking the castle ramp - not the coffin ramp.

It may be that the habit trail that leads t the castle locks is on too tightly. I have seen some people install very thin foam on the diverter to help "cushion" the blow of the ball coming into the diverter and that allows the ball to slow down enough that it does not go flying off the habit trail.

And it depends on the location, BSD's are going 2500 - 3000 Euro in Holland.

Whoops! Right you are. I have seen that. Like he said, check all the mount points of the habit trail.

Great idea, i think I'll be installing a little foam

People also mentioned stacking a couple washers where the habitrail mounts to the center target bank.

I have the wrong switch installed there, I plan to put the right one in and bend the arm out a little more.

I debated about going through all the work to restore the game but since I had the new playfield, Cabinet Decals, Plastics and ramps I decided to make this my last game that I restore. I am just going to take my time as I kind of burnt out on restoring games. Unfortunately, I figured that out after I bought all the stuff. On the plus side, It should turn out to be a pretty nice BSD when all completed.

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I had the same issue and solved it by adding one or two little washers under the middle of the wireform support down at the pop bumpers. This raised the angle of the left edge of the wire ramp just a hair so the ball doesn't jump out at the apex of the turn. Experiment with number of washers, but didn't take much at all. It happened on mine after rebuilt and fresh wax making it super fast. May work for you too. Best of luck.

Oops, just saw the was another post on this solution. Sorry. Give the washers a try, definitely works

whaaattt? they sell all day for $3200 to $3800

The original question I asked was how much would a completely restored dracula bring. I have a project one and was trying to decide if it's worth it. Most people I spoke with said 4k to 4500

It's definitely worth it! With what you have listed...Id easily say your in the 5k range. IMO.

If you do a complete restoration the right way with all the parts you mentioned, the range will be mid to high 5's. If you add a new cabinet, in the low 6.

drak is messing with me again. while playing games I would notice that sometimes switch 36 would not register. tried it under test and never had a problem. tested while playing game and noticed that sometimes it would not register when I manually triggered switch. I then noticed that switch 88 was not registering in game some times. it also always tested good in test mode. found out it would test in game when I pressed it very hard. Wished I hadn't, after this I lost switches 83 81 and 82. they have worked sporadically as they are optos but it is causing major playing problems being unable to load mist ball and magnet moving back and forth without stopping. left pocket works. interesting thing is that switch 88 has its green 8 wire tapped to switch 86 so I know that the 8 column is not having problems because 86 registers fine. 88 was jumped because the was no 8 column wire for it when I got the game which is why it is daisy chained to 86. any ideas on what to check and how to proceed with troubleshooting?
optos work sporadically and magnet stops

with fiddling around a little I got the stop switches to come back. not really sure if they were dead at the time but I assumed since the motor was going back and forth without stopping. on startup. opto is emiting light butnot functioning even when I use a remote control on reciever at close range. 36 works good in test mode but game play it can fail to react. and 88 does not function at all. going to trace the 8 wire row to another 8 row contact see if it conected. then i fit is check on diode.

solved the problem. took out switch 88 and found cold solder joint on a jumper wire happened to be column 8. the opto 82 was jumped off switch 88 so that even though the optos were working nothing got to the mpu. weirdly after fixing the problems with 88 and 82 for some reason 36 started working correctly, I can only assume there is some weird correlation in the program to make that happen. definitely an evil machine almost as bad too the bone as christine.

I was wrong th eproblem with switch 36 came back. I am wondering if the switch itself might have a problem that only appears under vibration and movement. going to swap it out with another in a few days

I need some help BSD owners. Long post ahead, I will try to keep it quick.

Decided to replace all lights on BSD and add the LED's to the speaker box. First added backbox and speaker mod and played a few games.

Next raised the playfield and replaced most inserts and played a few games. Next took off the castle ramp all the way around and replaced some GI lights then finished with raising the playfield and replacing more GI and flashers.

I think this is where the problem occurred as I heard all of the switches go off while the playfield was in the air. I finished replacing the bulbs and put the playfield down and had a message to check J114 and J115 Fuse. J114 was blown and I replaced it.

When powered on I got a ground closed message for ROW 4. Row 4 includes the plumb tilt, the launch button, castle lock opto and ramp, and trough balls. I double checked all of those things to no success.

I unplugged the speaker mod cable(which was no issue before) and the Ground error went away but then as I was testing switches all was good but it would not load the balls so I still think there is an issue and then it went haywire and now it will not let me enter the diagnostic mode when powered on. It just goes shows that bookkeeping totals have cleared.

Any suggestion of where to look now. Sorry for the long post.

Im IN AGAIN... Im going to restore my 4º Bram Stokers Dracula, love and hate relation with this machine...
I have a question, my flippers are so strong, when i make the coffin ramp, the ball always stops a lot on the curve of the ramp... Any way to adjust this?!
Thanks
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Don't fully understand the question. Are you saying flippers too strong or not enough. At the point in the curve gravity should make ball continue. Whatever is angle of table and do you have the right size space under ramp maybe short or spacer under wire form to tall.

Would love to pick up another BSD again. Looking for a beater.

Or I will have to settle for Black Knight 3000 LE.. hmnn

Flippers are very nice and strong, the ball travels very fast and stops a lot on that curve, stops a little bit the flow of on the machine, dont know if it helps...

Yes that’s normal.

Any ideias to minimize this beaviour?

I just got one if ya want it as/is i'll make ya a deal.

What is causing the ball to slow. Any friction or rubbing? At that point gravity should be making it move. Possible wrong spacers holding ramp or wire form. Easily put back together wrong. Took me 5 tries to get them right. Hopefully not banging into other wore form for castle lock.

I will try to make a video of it, to show you.

Just installed Pinsound in my BSD. Wow! It really makes a difference with the community mix. I have it wired with Stereo 2.1 and FF speakers. It is creepy good. It is pricey, but no more so than a ColorDMD. I like also how you can switch to the original sound using the operator coin door volume controls. I also had to change my sub to not use the alligator clips on the cabinet speaker. I was not getting any sound. I ran a RCA stereo cable to the sub off the board and it worked great.

Spacer under wire frame is 16mm. When ball has passed mounting screw on ramp the ball should roll towards bottom of game through wire form.

Swap coming along slowly - forgot how much stuff is on this game. Most of it is hidden but it is packed with stuff. Unfortunately, I can only work on it during weekends and this weekend I am tied up doing other stuff.

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Well, this will be your reminder not to replace bulbs with the game on! This is definitely a more general issue that would benefit from a thread of its own. You may have blown a chip or something.

You probably blew your 2803A chip at U20. Been there,done that. Don't change bulbs on a WPC with it on.

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-uln2803a-switch-matrix-driver-chip.html

Sooo I'm going to join your little club soon
Closed a deal on a #BSD for 2100$. Will be my second game beside a TOM.

Looking forward to it.
And now I'm going to read this thread a little.