I’ll give it a check tonight, thx! As part of a different project I swapped driver boards, and the problem remained so it’s definately a playfield issue.
I’ll give it a check tonight, thx! As part of a different project I swapped driver boards, and the problem remained so it’s definately a playfield issue.
I think I like this alternate trans-lite I made, it's growing on me.
I am sharing it with whoever wants to use it, take the file to your local print shop and print on photo paper.
I also took a picture of the lighting, LED warm bulbs.
Glad to be part of this club!
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MuQfwpH92W3FZedqLWuKBatoGIdqc2l8/view?usp=sharing
IMG_5918 (resized).jpgIMG_5919 (resized).jpgQuoted from mollyspub:Can someone tell me what height posts go here?
[quoted image][quoted image]
Sorry, these are always the hardest questions to get answered because of how much needs to be taken apart to check. :-/
Quoted from davebart5:Can anyone recommend a set of after market speakers they had good success with in BSD?
Do I need the 5 1/4" for the left speaker, and something smaller like 3 1/2" for the right speaker since the originals are two different sizes? And I take it an 8" or 10" speaker for the bottom cabinet will suffice too? The link earlier for the bottom speaker was a 6 1/2" woofer.
https://www.parts-express.com/pyle-pl53bl-blue-label-5-1-4-triaxial-speaker-pair--267-080
https://www.parts-express.com/pyramid-w64-6-1-2-pro-plus-midbass-woofer--290-025
Just for the reference here, I went with Pyle and their blue label series of speakers from parts express and they sound great. 5.25” for the left and a 4” for the right. New sub in the bottom with my external outside sounds amazing. I’m very happy.
Can anyone recommend where I might be able to find this plastic piece that sits above the entrance to the coffin ramp?
This pic is one I grabbed off pinside and my game seems to not have it. It only recently started denying my entrance up into the ramp when I get a nice clean shot up there.
Is it this plastic piece listed on Marco?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1744-13
Yw! I ordered the same part a few weeks ago, along with the lower part. Still gotta bolt it all up, just got the rivets and tool from Marcos.
Quoted from Phat_Jay:Yw! I ordered the same part a few weeks ago, along with the lower part. Still gotta bolt it all up, just got the rivets and tool from Marcos.
Absolutely. I bought both the ramp entrance plastics and the coffin lift ramp piece. Replacing the black flaps is definitely a to-do high on my list. Marco is currently out of the flaps. Did you find them elsewhere?
Quoted from msj2222:I am looking for a source for the clear DMD panel, I am planning on adding the colordmd to my BSD. Thanks
ebay.com link: WILLIAMS BRAM STOKERS DRACULA Pinball Machine Speaker Panel DMD BRAND NEW
Quoted from davebart5:Ordered. Thank you!
Thanks! Should be packed up and shipped out by tomorrow.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:ebay.com link » Williams Bram Stokers Dracula Pinball Machine Speaker Panel Dmd Brand New
I bought one of these from Ebay last month, it looks great and it perfect for an easy conversion to color DMD.
Quoted from mollyspub:Can someone tell me what height posts go here?
[quoted image][quoted image]
The long one is ~82mm (~3.23") and the short one is ~28mm (~1.1"). Measured while in the machine, so likely a bit wonky (think there's a small gap at the bottom of my short one for example), but 3 1/4" and 1" may be what that translates to for post length. Hope that helps
EDIT: There's also a thin washer at the bottom of my short post (I don't see one on yours, and I'm not sure what's factory). There is no washer on my longer post. This would make the overall height of my short post about 1-1.5 or so mm higher (I initially measured from on top of the washer).
Quoted from Medisinyl:The long one is ~82mm (~3.23") and the short one is ~28mm (~1.1"). Measured while in the machine, so likely a bit wonky (think there's a small gap at the bottom of my short one for example), but 3 1/4" and 1" may be what that translates to for post length. Hope that helps
EDIT: There's also a thin washer at the bottom of my short post (I don't see one on yours, and I'm not sure what's factory). There is no washer on my longer post. This would make the overall height of my short post about 1-1.5 or so mm higher (I initially measured from on top of the washer).
Thanks for the info! I'm having a clearance issue with the castle and main ramp. I've added a plastic protector so it may be just enough to cause a fitment concern.
The curved plastic makes all the difference in the world in stopping rejects on the right ramp, but where does the second plastic go?
Quoted from jasonpaulbauer:Thanks! Should be packed up and shipped out by tomorrow.
Thanks man! I can't wait.
had pp's; glass will rattle. not necessarily a bad thing.
i prefer pinnovator sub-out board plus external sub, fwtw.
Quoted from dudah:This plastic next to the bumpers was missing on my game. I remade it along with a fluorescent protector! Have a couple extras, anyone in need?
[quoted image]
I would love one!
Has anyone used this Pinhedz UV protection product on their BSD or any other game? Since we're susceptible to fade here on this title, it would be great if this helped things, even if you do cover the game or windows in the room.
https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/pinhedz-premium-series-cabinet-uv-pro
Another BSD sold for $5000 (custom made).
https://thisweekinpinball.com/happy-halloween-pinheads-custom-bram-stokers-dracula-in-a-coffin/
image (resized).jpegQuoted from dudah:This plastic next to the bumpers was missing on my game. I remade it along with a fluorescent protector! Have a couple extras, anyone in need?
[quoted image]
Yes please! Mine is cracked in half. PM with what you need. Thanks!
Quoted from Pinrookie:Another BSD sold for $5000 (custom made).
https://thisweekinpinball.com/happy-halloween-pinheads-custom-bram-stokers-dracula-in-a-coffin/
Yeah, that game has been around. Doesn’t fit into a line up easily, but Dennis did a stellar job on the customization. I’d take it just to have if it was available.
Looking for advice if anyone has mylar'd their video lane at the skill shot drop point. My paint is in tact, but I notice the vertical crack lines forming in the right light, so now's the time.
I've got the mylar Kruzman sells and definitely adding a strip above VIDEO stopping somewhere around the bend where you can't see. But, an idea was floated by me to just continue the strip all the way through the back of the PF to the drop target. The strip wouldn't touch the 3 inserts and just cover the words 'skill shot'.
Has anyone done it this way all the way to the drop target and do you recommend that, or would you do it differently? I could start with my initial plan and add on to the target later, but it might be best to do it once with one strip rather than adding another later.
Quoted from davebart5:Looking for advice if anyone has mylar'd their video lane at the skill shot drop point. My paint is in tact, but I notice the vertical crack lines forming in the right light, so now's the time.
I've got the mylar Kruzman sells and definitely adding a strip above VIDEO stopping somewhere around the bend where you can't see. But, an idea was floated by me to just continue the strip all the way through the back of the PF to the drop target. The strip wouldn't touch the 3 inserts and just cover the words 'skill shot'.
Has anyone done it this way all the way to the drop target and do you recommend that, or would you do it differently? I could start with my initial plan and add on to the target later, but it might be best to do it once with one strip rather than adding another later.
I just did it over the video lane. Remember to wax before mylar.
Quoted from aobrien5:I just did it over the video lane. Remember to wax before mylar.
Thank you for chiming in. I do appreciate the feedback here.
But I'm glad you brought this up. Kruzman himself told me "I remove the wax before I mylar. It sticks better, just like paint or adhesives. So you want to remove the wax, with denatured alcohol, paint thinner which I think is not as harsh as laquer thinner. then wax after. Use your CP100 then take some bathroom alcohol which is 90% and use a cotton and wipe in in all directions, not just back and forth, and you will be good".
Another pinhead friend of mine advised to wax first, but when I got Kruzman's feedback when purchasing his mylar, I was surprised to have the conflicting advice.
Quoted from davebart5:Another pinhead friend of mine advised to wax first, but when I got Kruzman's feedback when purchasing his mylar, I was surprised to have the conflicting advice.
I always wax first. I've never had a issue on any game with mylar coming off. I don't like the idea of "stripping down" part of a playfield for mylar. I usually clean the area with Plexus then a good solid wax. It works...
Quoted from neverahighscore:I always wax first. I've never had a issue on any game with mylar coming off. I don't like the idea of "stripping down" part of a playfield for mylar. I usually clean the area with Plexus then a good solid wax. It works...
There goes that Plexus again. Ol’ reliable. Every time you mention it I kick myself for never remembering to grab a bottle.
Quoted from davebart5:There goes that Plexus again. Ol’ reliable. Every time you mention it I kick myself for never remembering to grab a bottle.
I'll get you a can for Christmas just cause I like Amanda.
Quoted from neverahighscore:I'll get you a can for Christmas just cause I like Amanda.
Fantastic. Plexus it is. She appreciates the nice gesture too.
I think this is the idea behind wax/no wax before mylar:
wax first - if you are covering a spot with less than perfect paint/clear coat. That way, if you or anyone else wants to do a better repair/clear, they can remove the mylar without further damaging what's beneath.
no wax - brand new or newly clear coated game that you're laying down mylar to protect an already good finish. This way the mylar won't start peeling at the edges and will stay down/clean longer. When you remove it, there's less chance of damaging what's beneath because it's still in good condition.
You're covering a spot that's already damaged, therefore - wax first.
Quoted from Hazzard:When you're serious about stereo imaging and sound quality...
[quoted image]
Nice man! Make me feel like maybe I should step the audio up now haha. I’m loving the mix and upgraded speakers.
Quoted from aobrien5:I think this is the idea behind wax/no wax before mylar:
wax first - if you are covering a spot with less than perfect paint/clear coat. That way, if you or anyone else wants to do a better repair/clear, they can remove the mylar without further damaging what's beneath.
no wax - brand new or newly clear coated game that you're laying down mylar to protect an already good finish. This way the mylar won't start peeling at the edges and will stay down/clean longer. When you remove it, there's less chance of damaging what's beneath because it's still in good condition.
You're covering a spot that's already damaged, therefore - wax first.
Thanks man, I’m definitely not in the realm of NOS or cleared, but my paint is still completely intact with no damage other than seeing some subtle vertical lines in the perfect angled lighting. Maybe I’ll lay down the wax to play it safe for future repairs if needed.
I'm working towards restoring my Dracula Game. The movie was awesome the pinball doesn't match the movie in terms of toys or detail. One of the companies I own is called Blacklight Attractions and we do a lot of themed 3D enviorments. I friend of mine (elevatorman) is working on the game itself and we powercoated the entire thing red and back including all the rails. I had my painters re-paint all the plastic sets. We put on new decals, led, color screen and adding some toys. Also waiting on the ramps I bought from a guy on this thread. We're changing all the posts, rubbers, sideblade art, you name it. Should turn out pretty awesome once done.
Once its done we'll share some pics. But in the meantime check out the plastics.
all three clearcoated (resized).jpgcastle front (resized).jpgcastle top (resized).jpggraveyard front (resized).jpggraveyard top (resized).jpghouses front (resized).jpghouses top (resized).jpgLove the repainted stuff...very classy.
This game def needs (deserves) better buildings and coffin etc. Even the ramp decals are cheesy.
Nothing has really grabbed me until your stuff above. Great work.
Quoted from ArcadeVideo:I'm looking forward to seeing some "revamped" ramps! In the meantime, has anyone seen other examples of how BSD ramps have been modded differently than the stock decals?
Not to get off topic of alternative decals. but I did replace the two 555 bulbs that shine under the left ramp, and put two comet matrix 10SMD warm white 555 light strips under there instead and now my entire left ramp is illuminated from the entrance and up around the bend, and that lightning bolt in the decal is now glowing. Hide all the wires underneath for no shadowing and it looks awesome. I may add dimmers to get the perfect feel but it looks so good. I can’t inagine the ramp without it.
Now that I’ve done this, the lightning bolt in the decal looks sharp enough that it matches the bolts in the D-R-A-C-U-L-A letters, the lightning flippers and a few other spots where lightning is present.
Quoted from drfrightner:I'm working towards restoring my Dracula Game. The movie was awesome the pinball doesn't match the movie in terms of toys or detail. One of the companies I own is called Blacklight Attractions and we do a lot of themed 3D enviorments. I friend of mine (elevatorman) is working on the game itself and we powercoated the entire thing red and back including all the rails. I had my painters re-paint all the plastic sets. We put on new decals, led, color screen and adding some toys. Also waiting on the ramps I bought from a guy on this thread. We're changing all the posts, rubbers, sideblade art, you name it. Should turn out pretty awesome once done.
Once its done we'll share some pics. But in the meantime check out the plastics.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Those painted plastics are gorgeous. Seriously that is some fine detail of epic proportions.
Quoted from davebart5:Not to get off topic of alternative decals. but I did replace the two 555 bulbs that shine under the left ramp, and put two comet matrix 10SMD warm white 555 light strips under there instead and now my entire left ramp is illuminated from the entrance and up around the bend, and that lightning bolt in the decal is now glowing. Hide all the wires underneath for no shadowing and it looks awesome. I may add dimmers to get the perfect feel but it looks so good. I can’t inagine the ramp without it.
Now that I’ve done this, the lightning bolt in the decal looks sharp enough that it matches the bolts in the D-R-A-C-U-L-A letters, the lightning flippers and a few other spots where lightning is present.
I've thought about trying this - do you have a picture you can post, showing how it looks?
Quoted from mollyspub:Selling my old BSD playfield. Pm with questions / offers .
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Better than the one in my game.
Quoted from drfrightner:I'm working towards restoring my Dracula Game. The movie was awesome the pinball doesn't match the movie in terms of toys or detail. One of the companies I own is called Blacklight Attractions and we do a lot of themed 3D enviorments. I friend of mine (elevatorman) is working on the game itself and we powercoated the entire thing red and back including all the rails. I had my painters re-paint all the plastic sets. We put on new decals, led, color screen and adding some toys. Also waiting on the ramps I bought from a guy on this thread. We're changing all the posts, rubbers, sideblade art, you name it. Should turn out pretty awesome once done.
Once its done we'll share some pics. But in the meantime check out the plastics.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Very nice!!!...looking forward to being in the club and "personalizing" mine soon!!!...great game!!
Quoted from ArcadeVideo:I've thought about trying this - do you have a picture you can post, showing how it looks?
Id like a pic also!
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