(Topic ID: 358284)

Bram Stoker's Dracula GI issue

By WalrusPin

23 days ago


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  • 21 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 21 days ago by WalrusPin
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 23 days ago

I'm troubleshooting an issue with one loop of the GI lamps on a BSD. The area not working is on the lower half of the playfield, riding on yellow and white-yellow wires back to the power driver board, J121, pins 9 and 3 respectively. I'm only seeing 1V at the board pins. In comparison, pins 2 and 8 off of the same connector as well as pins 1 and 7 are seeing 6.5V. These are also 6.8VAC GI to the playfield.

Fuse F108 has continuity (not that it would be blown if 1V is present). I did check the test point voltages on the driver board, but a prior owner soldered the wires on several connectors directly to the back of the board. Waiting on new molex connectors and pins, so until then I cannot disconnect all downstream plugs. Results are attached in the images.

I'm not sure where to go next. I do not have a schematic of the actual power driver board itself, so if there are any components that someone could direct me to look at who is familiar, it would be appreciated.

Thank you!

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#2 23 days ago

First thought is pins 9 and 3 don't have through board continuity.

When you get the new pins in. Check continuity from each pin to a solder point away from the repair area.

LTG : )

#3 23 days ago

Post a picture of the board. Front and back. Focus on the area at the bottom / left where the GI is. The most common introduced error in the GI on this board is at J120.

#4 23 days ago

In addition to the above advice, here’s some reading material:
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#General_Illumination_Problems

During repair of the J120 and J121 connectors you should check continuity back to J115 and even possibly the transformer plug that supplies J115

Edit- Check for voltage at J115 pins

Schematic:

IMG_3096 (resized).pngIMG_3096 (resized).png

#5 23 days ago

Pictures attached. Please remember that this is not my "handiwork." Are all leads to the J115 supposed to be common?

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#6 23 days ago
Quoted from WalrusPin:

Pictures attached. Please remember that this is not my "handiwork." Are all leads to the J115 supposed to be common?

Eventually there are just the two wires that supply the 6.8VAC from the transformer secondary.
IMG_3097 (resized).jpegIMG_3097 (resized).jpeg

#7 23 days ago
Quoted from emsrph:

In addition to the above advice, here’s some reading material:
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#General_Illumination_Problems
During repair of the J120 and J121 connectors you should check continuity back to J115 and even possibly the transformer plug that supplies J115
Edit- Check for voltage at J115 pins
Schematic:
[quoted image]

Thanks for this. I'll dig back in after breakfast.

#8 23 days ago
Quoted from WalrusPin:

I did check the test point voltages on the driver board, but a prior owner soldered the wires on several connectors directly to the back of the board. Waiting on new molex connectors and pins, so until then I cannot disconnect all downstream plugs. Results are attached in the images.

I'm not sure where to go next. I do not have a schematic of the actual power driver board itself, so if there are any components that someone could direct me to look at who is familiar, it would be appreciated.

I'd just wait until you get the pins and connectors, why fix that mess until you have the parts on hand to do so?

Schematics are available not only at ipdb.org but at planetary pinball and likely linked as well from pinwiki.

I'll agree with whatever previous poster said was ripped out holes and traces as the most likely cause, which you have to remove the wires anyway so you can prep for that by getting the traces tested/fixed now while waiting for the parts. Remove that hack job.

#9 22 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

I'd just wait until you get the pins and connectors, why fix that mess until you have the parts on hand to do so?
Schematics are available not only at ipdb.org but at planetary pinball and likely linked as well from pinwiki.
I'll agree with whatever previous poster said was ripped out holes and traces as the most likely cause, which you have to remove the wires anyway so you can prep for that by getting the traces tested/fixed now while waiting for the parts. Remove that hack job.

Connectors and headers came today (thats why i was getting a jump start on this last night). Just finished replacing the headers for 101, 102, 114, 115, 120, and 121. Those were all he ones that someone had messed with prior. The others look good.

Q12 and Q14 appear to have been replaced in the past. Going to re-test after re-pinning the connectors.

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#10 22 days ago

Time to learn how to solder new header pins.

#11 22 days ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Time to learn how to solder new header pins.

You should see what I had to work with. There were wire leads soldered to the underside of all of these points and it was obvious the iron was up too high, damaging the traces. There was also solder slopped everywhere, I had to vacuum both sides of the board to clean it.
This is as good as it's going to get with what I had to work with without sourcing a new board.

#12 22 days ago

So I finished re-pinning all of the connectors that matched the replaced headers, as well as a few that were loose. They had abandoned the J120 entirely and had combined the connections with the playfield lights on J121. I reseparated them back to their original positons. I also found the J128 was in the J124 position (moved that back to match the wiring diagram) and J133 and J134 were flipped from the manual (3-37), so those were switched back. I then connected everything and powered it on.

The lower GI worked. I ran through some tests and everything looked good, then the fun started...

Smoke started coming out of dracula's coffin (a cool effect if it wasn't so destructive). I believe that I've isolated it to the right ramp up solenoid (solenoid 14, P/N SM1-28.) It was very hot compared to anything else in the area.

I also noticed capacitor C11 was melting and smoking. The cap is 25V 15000uf.

I found this article and started to look into it: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dracula-blowing-c11-capacitor-

I don't see a direct condition on that post that matches what I found on the machine, but I like the diode resistor idea to prevent it from happening again. Does anyone have any thoughts on this and where to proceed next?

Thank you!

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#13 22 days ago
Quoted from WalrusPin:

I also found the J128 was in the J124 position (moved that back to match the wiring diagram)

^^^^^ THIS.

Quoted from WalrusPin:

Smoke started coming out of dracula's coffin (a cool effect if it wasn't so destructive). I believe that I've isolated it to the right ramp up solenoid (solenoid 14, P/N SM1-28.) It was very hot compared to anything else in the area.
I also noticed capacitor C11 was melting and smoking. The cap is 25V 15000uf.

^^^^^ CAUSED THIS.

#14 22 days ago

The manual is wrong in this and will indeed cause smoke at sol#14 when it is plugged onto J128, and possible melt speaker panel with flashers

Label your connector that it belongs to J124, replace coil 28-900, capacitor C11 and check speaker panel flashers.
And make correction in manual (sol.table / page 3-8 / page 3-36 / 3-37

#15 22 days ago
Quoted from zaza:

Label your connector that it belongs to J124

The factory did this. It is a double sticky label that clearly says "J124" on it. Someone (in the machine's past) probably cut it off or removed it.

#16 22 days ago
Quoted from zaza:

The manual is wrong in this and will indeed cause smoke at sol#14 when it is plugged onto J128, and possible melt speaker panel with flashers
Label your connector that it belongs to J124, replace coil 28-900, capacitor C11 and check speaker panel flashers.
And make correction in manual (sol.table / page 3-8 / page 3-36 / 3-37

Thank you!

#17 22 days ago

Yes, that label is not present. I'll re-pin it, relabel it correctly, and notate the manual.

#18 21 days ago
Quoted from zaza:The manual is wrong in this and will indeed cause smoke at sol#14 when it is plugged onto J128, and possible melt speaker panel with flashers
Label your connector that it belongs to J124, replace coil 28-900, capacitor C11 and check speaker panel flashers.
And make correction in manual (sol.table / page 3-8 / page 3-36 / 3-37

Thanks. Correcting my manual.

Also inside cover and page 3-9

#19 21 days ago

One other cable that I noticed doesn't match the manual. My J133 was originally in J134, so I did correct that. Is that right or another typo?

Additionally on J134, the manual only mentions a cable in position 9 (red-gray), but their is also a cable in position 8 (red-violet i think). Is that correct and does anyone know where it goes before I trace it?

Is there a service bulletin that calls any of this to light? I couldn't find one on Planetary or ipdb.

Thanks again
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#20 21 days ago

J133/134/135 are identical so you are free to plug them where you want.
J134 has 2 wires. Red-Vio for "launch ball" and Red-Gry for "game start"

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

#21 21 days ago
Quoted from zaza:

J133/134/135 are identical so you are free to plug them where you want.
J134 has 2 wires. Red-Vio for "launch ball" and Red-Gry for "game start"
[quoted image]

Thanks for the quick reply. That makes sense with them all being keyed identically. I just wanted to double check after the fireworks display last night.

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