(Topic ID: 239673)

Bowler blowing fuses - coils bad? help

By TimL

5 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 12 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by TimL
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    #1 5 years ago

    Newer to em, and trying to learn.

    Have a 56 United bowling alley small ball bowler
    Game has been cleaned - steppers, reals, switches.

    When powered on, the ball lift motor, back-box lights and play-field lights come and work as they should. Was not getting power to the game (coin /credit relays).
    Had blown the 50 v fuse. replaced and blew again.

    Read that a low ohms / resistance of a coil will cause this fuse to blow.

    Tested all coils within the game and came up with 5 coils only testing 0.9 to 0.5 ohms. All others tested 3 to 34 ohms.

    lock relay (0.6), 1st 2nd player reset (0.9), score motor relay (0.6), game over trip coil (0.6), and player reset coil (0.5).

    It is usual to have 5 coils go bad? or does that seem like a lot?
    Can understand the lock relay as this is mostly energized, but the player reset and score motor relay look to be in good condition and not burnt up.

    What can cause a coil to lose resistance?

    Can these be rebuilt or have to be just replaced?

    1 week later
    #2 5 years ago

    Bump, because I'm interested as well.

    #3 5 years ago

    EM coils usually (not always) give indications of being bad, such as a dark brown burnt appearance, melted bobbin, cooked paper wrapping. I haven't done a Bowler yet but the principles are close in all EMs. Sounds like the motor is under load and can't turn or a short. Manually spin the motor with a wooden stick to ensure it is free.
    Look close at all solder joints, sometimes the tabs cross one another and short.
    Check that all mechanical linkage in back is free. Look for crossed wires or disconnected wires that could touch where they shouldn't.

    1 week later
    #4 5 years ago

    Went to replace the coils, disconnected the wires from them and then they tested w/ the correct resistance. What causes this?
    But still blowing the Fuse...
    Soldered a circuit breaker to a blown fuse so could keep testing without going thru more fuses.
    So started removing potential problem areas - disconnected the Jones plugs from the back box and pin hood. So limited power to only the coffin area.
    Checked all coils again- good, removed (disconnected) the 5 coils that were testing low. Took all male Jones plugs and pulled wires straighter to ensure wires were non crossing. Visually inspected all switch and coil wires, nothing visually cross touching. Checked wall plug cord and in good shape. Turned out lights and no visual spark. Fuse blows with in a sec or two once the on/off switch activates power.
    Looking for any advice or area to focus??

    #5 5 years ago

    When I first read, I was going to suggest checking the 10 pin coils under
    the pin hood, but you stated that you disconnected that from under the
    coffin. The Lock Relay is suppose to stay energized once a game is started
    until the machine is turned off.
    A Coil and Relay Coil will burn out before the fuse blows. You said that
    all bottom board Coils/Relay Coils seem to be okay, but had you carefully
    look at the coils in the Relay Bank? It could be others in the Bank, but if I
    had to guess, I'd fist check the Start Relay Coil, and 2nd guess would be to
    look at the Game Over Relay coil.
    If any of those coils in the Bank are burnt, it should visibly be noticeable..

    #6 5 years ago

    Just doubled checked every coil in reset bank -- all looked OK (from what i could see) did test all of them with multi-meter and each had ohms registering from 4 to 7. -- Relays also tested OK (lock, coin, player, etc)

    #7 5 years ago

    Yes, if a Relay Coil was burned out, it would stand out. I'm sure you checked for solder
    splader, especially in the Bank. This can be tough. I've seen where a single steel wool
    stran caused hamic..
    So with the 4 head plugins unplugged, along with the pin unit's harness, (you sure it's
    the pin unit unplugged and not the plug for the rollovers) (just making sure), it pops the 50V
    breaker a couple of seconds after the machine is turned on..
    Before anything else, if any of the relays in the Bank Relay is in the energized position,
    had you tried manually resetting the bank and then turning on the machine? Probably won't
    make a difference, but slight chance that it could..

    #8 5 years ago

    Yes both Jones plugs, under the lane and to the pins are detached and no relays in bank in the energized position. Would I be right in assuming probably a short in a wire somewhere? any tricks on finding?

    #9 5 years ago

    I think your assumption is very likely.
    I haven't done this often, but after I no longer have anymore fingernails left to scratch my head,
    I've put a bolt in the fuse holder and looked where it first start smoking. This is highly "NOT"
    recommended, but best, with all the plugins unplugged like you have, and with the machine itself
    unplugged but the toggle switch on, you can have a Friend with the power cord plug in one hand,
    and a plugged in extension cord in the other, and as soon as your Friend plugs in the machine, he
    consentrates primarily on the Relay Bank, and you the rest of the bottom board, and as soon as
    a puff of smoke is seen, the machine gets unplugged, with your Friend always ready in an instint
    to unplug it. I've done this alone with no problems and your machine won't burn up, but I suggest
    having a Friend along so any further wire damage doesn't take place. Even if it's contacts that's not
    suppose to be touching, that's where it will fist start burning..
    This might be the only time I've suggested this without being on sight..
    But before you do that, if the coin mech is still attached, had you checked the Coin Reject Coil
    at the lower right front inside the coffin? If the coin mech has been takin' out, maybe checking any
    Coin Mechs loose wires in that area. If some are (taped) together, you might want to separate them
    and then turn on the machine and see what happens..

    #10 4 years ago

    The short was up front near the coin door, wires going to coin/free play switch. Was further back along the original wires. Possibly shut in the coin door at one time, a staple or a dozen other reasons, could not see the break in the insulation. Wires smoked as stated, Removed and fuse now holds. Thank you -

    #11 4 years ago

    Glad that worked out!

    #12 4 years ago

    Yes! Now on to the next issue - score motor is very sluggish, barley turns. I can turn the cam freely by hand, but once motor engages little to no movement - I know game sat for many years not played all steppers were very gummed up . Going to remove and get into gear box for cleaning.

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