Which coin door switch? The Credit button should activate the Credit relay by this circuit

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The wires on score motor have not been removed. They were never soldered. The wires, and missing relay are probably part of some special coinage option (2 coins for 1 play or 1 coin 1 play, 2 coins 3 plays) that is not factory installed in your game.

Edit: Or third coin chute.

Can you be clearer about what you'd like to accomplish?

MH I belive you are over thinking this. Just behind where the coinbox sits, left of center, should be one or two female Jones plug with 3 or 4 single male plugs off to the side. These control the pulse settings for the coin shoots and allow dimes, quarters or sba's depending on your preference. Consult the manual for the proper coin setup determined by the the wire color combinations. Be sure to follow what goes where or the game will misbehave depending on how you set those plugs

The knocker is controlled by a switch on credit unit, that closes when credit unit step-up solenoid pulls in. Is the step-up solenoid also on? If not, check that the switch opens properly. The switch is visible on your picture, near the "CREDIT UNIT" label.

If the credit unit step-up is also on, check for a stuck coin switch and coin option plug settings.

Those wires in your pic are factory and are for the 3rd coin shoot that was not factory installed. It was purposely left that way for operators to modify their coin shoots which was standard practice for Bally during the period as explained in the manual. This applies to all the rest of your dead-end wires and empty switch connections. I would put the notion that a prior owner sabotaged this game aside. Bally, Williams and gottlieb were pumping titles out at breakneck speeds during this time and not building wire harnesses and scoring motors for individual games, they used universal harnesses and motors for dozen of titles and not all wires or switches were used depending on the game. I am not am EM expert but have had similar problems to this when getting my Bally's back to basics and excepting coins. I would definitely recommend listening to HowardR and Tuukka as they can guide you back to getting this game to functional. If you don't have a printed manual a pdf should be available at https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=362

There should be a supplemental coin door wiring schematics manual included with the game manual.

MH that schematic is mainly for adding a 3rd coin shoot which you do not have. Disregard that and consult the written portion of the manual for the proper wire setup for the 3 Jones plug. From your previous post it sounds like it adds 1 credit for 1 coin which is fine for now. As for you problem adding credits while playing take a look at the bonus counter in the back box. Unplug whatever wire is in there now and plug the grey wire into the 0000 section. The game should now only add bonus credits once you hit 190k points. If this is not the case report back and hopefully someone can guide you from there. If the game is not subtracting credits on start up follow the wires on the credit unit and be sure that someone did not add a switch or toggle as a free play hack. As for the knocker coil locking on you should be able to follow the schematic for the issue fairly easily as it is at the end of the line. It seems you have seperate issues going on all at once so be sure to post what you are trying to accomplish and take it 1 step at a time.

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Are the front door coin micro switches moving freely, and at their rest position (wire not down)? Try pushing the wire, you should hear a definite click, and another click when released. Stuck coin switch may cause the credit unit step up to be on.

Dont keep the credit and knocker coils energized too long or they will melt and get stuck. Check that they move freely when power is off.

According to schematic, the credit unit step up can only be energized by 2nd and 3rd coin chute relays (and your game probably doesn't have the 3rd), match feature and high score adjustments. And then always via a score motor switch. Hard to see how it could be stuck on. You could try temporarily setting the high score feature adjustment plug in backbox to "extra ball" and match feature adjustment to off.

If someone has been tampering with the credit unit switches, might be that there is a short. One switch is connected in series with the step up coil, and opens when the credits are at maximum, to prevent adding more credits. Try to find that switch and check it is not bent or touching anything.

If nobody replies to your question in your last post you could contact the other Bow&Arrow owners. If I wanted to know I'd look at the wire colors on the schematic.

when you push the credit button, the credit relay powers per howard's circuit and the coin relay should immediately power and stay powered.

the credit relay should stay powered until score motor 7E switch opens ... and the credit unit reset coil should have fired when score motor 3B closed earlier.

if you can't see when the credit and coin relays lose power because the score motor is turning too fast to watch everything, it's probably simpler to debug after the game is reset and you are enabling player 2. There's a couple options:

1] if the game has a score motor service plug, pull it so the score motor won't run.

- or -

2] if no service plug and you don't feel like unsoldering a score motor wire, the next easiest thing is stick a piece of paper between the contacts on the coin relay switch with wires 50-4 and 13-2 on the blades

- you've now disabled the score motor ... then -

3] push the credit button. The credit and coin relays should power, but the score motor does nothing

if both those relays power and stay powered, you can either turn the score motor cams by hand or manually lift up the cam 3 switch stack and see if the credit unit reset coil fires to remove a credit.

did you jumper wire 30 directly to the credit unit reset coil wire that isn't the black jumper and verify the coil is good?

Here are a few links that talk about how to use Alligator clip jumper wires
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-big-shot-repair#post-6305153
http://www.planetimming.com/Pinball/troubleshooting/EM%20Troubleshooting.pdf
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#features
Example of a pinsider actually doing this https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/red-baron-tech-question#post-5858156

If you'd like to try a phone call (and you have a paper copy of the schematic), send me your cellphone number in a private message and I'll make a first reply with a text message.

a little background that may help when ya talk to howard (if you haven't yet).

the wire color code is at A35 on the schem. Wire 50-4 would be a solid white wire (probably looks gray or yellowish from grime/aging) and 13-2 would be red with a yellow tracer (tracer = stripe or dashes, and the red may have faded a lot).

the -x suffix indicates it's the xth usage of the same color wire in the game in different circuits. e.g. wires 13, 13-1 and 13-2 look identical, but they aren't connected together and are used in different circuits.

wire 30 is solid yellow, and is kinda unique ... there's no 30-x wires, so all the solid yellow wires are the same wire daisy chained all over the place. It's also a fatter wire and is the common/neutral wire for all the power circuits except the mains/120V circuit.

except for the 120V stuff, the game is mostly wired with one side of a load connected to a fused power wire ... where load is a lamp, coil, motor ... and all the switching circuits are connecting the other side of the load to wire 30.

so if you want to test if a load works, you have to identify which terminal on the load is connected to the power wire (a fat black line on the schem and usually a solid color wire ... or maybe one switch away from the fat black line like the coin relay coil), then jumper wire 30 to the other terminal on the load.

if ya screw up and jumper wire 30 to the power, you lose a fuse but won't damage a load.

wire 30 on the schem is the fat black line running right from transformer lug 8. You can attach a jumper end there or on any device wire 30 is connected to like a slam tilt switch blade, a GI lamp, some stepper units or switch blades. Wherever you can easily clip on and reach what you want to connect the other end to.

now for something useful .. maybe ...

when the game is 1 play per coin, you want the circuits to power the coin relay directly instead of the coin chute relays or 2nd coin unit (if you have one ... that's why it's drawn with dashes on the schem).

in your pic in post 38, the 2nd chute adjust plug is the smaller one on the left. You want the 38-2 (yellow/black) wire on the plug to connect to 90-4 (grey) in the socket. On the schem at E6, you are connecting the plug to socket pin 1.

the plug with wire 75-1 on it isn't used because you don't have a third coin chute, and in 1 coin / play mode the longer 3rd coin chute adjust plug which is sometimes used for powering the 2nd coin chute relay isn't used either.

i.e. if you look on the schem around D8, the 2nd coin chute relay switch will never close so it doesn't matter where the plug is. I'd just leave it where it is.

the end result is below. Coin chute 1 powers the coin relay via the yellow path, and chute 2 does it via the green path.

the yellow path fork depends on whether your game has a 2 coin unit (used for 2 coins / play). If it does, there'll be an adjust plug on it.
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