Working on my Bounty Hunter now, slowly doing a NOS playfield swap (that I bought 5+ years ago). It's a real fun game that won't be leaving my collection any time soon.
Steve
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What do you want to see? I just started the swap. I figured it was a good candidate since the backglass and cabinets are nice. The playfield had some wear at the pops and around the loop area. I also have NOS plastics and instruction cards for it. The only drag is the two holes I need to repair from the route days (hasp). Once done, it'll be as close to new condition as I can make it.
Steve
Quoted from PinDescabarian:More pictures please!
Isolate the coin door and tilt switches/wires and see if it still resets. Sounds like a line is possibly shorting to ground somewhere.
Steve
Just thought of something else to look for Danny as well as what I posted before. Has the wiring harness to the coin door been pinched in the coin door hinge? If so, it's possible that a bare wire is grounding at the hinge too.
Steve
Nah, I have it about half way swapped into my game, no going back now.
Steve
Quoted from PinDescabarian:Hey Steve. Let me know if you want to sell that playfield. I am sure that is a big no. You know what they say. It doesn't hurt to try. Right.
Yes, or Bounty Hunter owner's club, I could post pics of my playfield swap as it's being done then. Or you could call it "Bounty Hunter's club, the other BH".
Steve
Quoted from shacklersrevenge:OP, you should change the name of the thread from ''pricing'' to Bounty Hunter owners- some more bounty hunter lovers may come out of the wood work, and we can toss tips and ideas around about our machines
Yep, the piggyback board, you'll probably have to solder suck the board and then reflow the solder after.
Steve
Quoted from PinDescabarian:I did find a board behind the back box that seems suspicious. When it is touched slightly it resets the game.
I just bought one from the Pinball Resource. Target decal #24518 $1.40ea -NOS but the glue on the back has dried out -You will need to re-apply the glue!
Steve
Okay, had a little time to post some pics of my NOS Bounty Hunter playfield swap. First, the stationary targets needed a lot of attention, I decided to replace with new instead of trying to repaint them. I ordered them from PBR with newer, more improved System 3 switches installed since they have a stronger backing and also a foam pad to help prevent air balls. Then I took a punch and popped out a hole in the center of some mylar so it'll fit over the rivet and protect the art from rubbing off like it did before. From there, the excess mylar is trimmed away.
Steve
Old target
new target
Mylar covers to protect the target faces from future ball wear
Mylar before trimming
Here are some more pics of the finished targets installed and a comparison of the old and new pop bumper cap stickers. When I saw some previous pics of them (in this thread), I had no idea they had faded so badly, especially when the new ones showed up. I also replaced all the clear posts with new ones, new always looks better than old.
Steve
Here are some pics of the wiring harness being moved from the old playfield to the NOS one on the right. Then came complete flipper, pop bumper, kicker rebuilds and finally, pop bumper board mods.
More later.
Steve
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Someone has to do it, might as well be us.
Steve
Quoted from Chitownpinball:What? Gottlieb love? UN-heard of! Glad you guys are keeping these around, I like this title.
Getting my targets set up the way I wanted them was a slight delay with a lot of emails back and forth to Jimmy at PBR. At first he said they didn't have the target face in the colors I wanted, so I sent him a pic of the target. Then he said he had them but they were out of stock and I would have to wait for new ones to be made. In the end, all was good, the targets/switches were a little expensive but the results were what I wanted. Here's the part numbers from my PBR billing if you want to get them made the same way.
GTB-A12290 target face-circles White/Red
GTB-25460 spot target asy. (kit)
Service > install target face on switch
I've never seen a NOS GTB playfield that came from the factory with the mylar already installed (and I've seen and swapped out a lot of NOS playfields ).
Steve
Quoted from manitouguy:steve - your targets look great and have inspired me to do mine .. did your nos playfield come with a factory mylar - i heard that most did not
cheers, Ron
Here is a comparison of the old style of target switch with a System 3 target switch. The new switch has more support and I'll find out how well it performs later. Sorry, I didn't realize I had no pics of the new switch that show the design change so I had to take the second pic of the System 3 switch installed, looking down on it.
Steve
Yep, I have a NOS plastic set for it, also have NOS instruction cards. When I'm done, it'll be as close to NIB as can be given the circumstances. No clear on the playfield, new mylar, just like factory but a better fit.
Steve
Quoted from PinDescabarian:Steve, the playfield swap is coming along well. Hopefully it will be ready for PAGG. It looks great!
Do you have new playfield plastics for the new playfield?
Did you clear coat the new playfield?
Page 43 1/2 in the manual, just after the 24VDC bridge shows the F15 fuse, it calls for a 1 amp slo-blo. I believe it isn't used in Bounty Hunter though. That fuse is reserved for games with sound/speech boards, I've never seen one of these boards in a Bounty Hunter. My manual doesn't even show a sound/speech option. If yours has the sound/speech board, please post pics.
Steve
If you look at the fuse cover, you'll see that F15 says "sound speech (when used)". The pic of your sound board isn't a sound/speech board so you don't put a fuse in F15, it remains empty. That's probably why the fuse blew in the first place, a fuse there was putting voltage where it doesn't belong. I hope it didn't damage your sound board.
Steve
Yes, you are correct.
Steve
Quoted from PinDescabarian:In the picture above,the Fuse on the lowest portion of the fuse bridge is F1. F8 is the circular fuse below and to the left of the bridge of fuses.
I believe that F15 (24VDC) is reserved for a sound/speech power supply board of some kind. In looking at the schematic, the line stops at A10P2-6 and goes no further so I don't know how that fuse could have blown in the first place (LOL, odd, me talking about a blown fuse ). It doesn't put power to anything at all for Bounty Hunter. F7 is for lightbox G.I.
F3 (1/4 amp slo-blo) is the fuse for displays. If neither of your displays light up, the odds are it's a power or connection issue. you'll need to verify that all voltages are present to the display board first. Once verified, then if needed, you can troubleshoot the display.
Or you could PM me for my address and bring the display here for testing in my game. I'm about 40 minutes west from Brentwood.
Steve
Wow, that's a mess. Are you able to re-flow the solder around all the pins? As I said before, you could bring the board over here and we can see if it can be repaired. I don't like using a socket to make that connection between boards, there just isn't enough support. If you switch to one of the GPE U2/3 modules, you'd probably be better off.
Steve
I believe that drop target is called a rollover target, part # 20892P in clear. The target decal is part # 24518.
If you want to do a flipper rebuild and the coils are original but still good, I see no need to buy new ones, just replace the coil sleeves, stops and plungers. I'd also replace the E.O.S switches too but that's just me. You should be able to get these at the Pinball Resource. Part #'s are;
plunger and tip assembly #16360 (X3)
coil sleeve #5064 (X3)
coil mounting bracket and stop #17908 (X3)
E.O.S. switch assembly #B-16363 (X3)
(if they're missing) spring washer (2 per coil) #FA-605 (X3)
(if a coil is bad) lower coils #A-24161 (X2) upper coil #A-17875 (X1)
Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure
Just saw this, sorry, don't know how I missed it. Those are switch diodes (1N270), if they are damaged, the playfield (or coin door) switches they service won't work.
Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure
Quoted from NicToria:Hello... My friend just picked up a Bounty Hunter... We are starting to get it up and going. Checked all the fuses and replaced bad and or wrong values.
It boots up and plays.. However some switches and lights are not working...
I noticed the "diode board?" has a lot of damage. Many of them are crushed and broken.....
What does this board do for the game... ??
Newbie on Tech stuffs.... Slow and steady we go.
Thx for any help or suggestions.
NT..
Yep, almost a whole string out. I think just replacing the damaged one's will be fine, no sense in putting them where they weren't used.
Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure
Quoted from NicToria:DO you think we are missing any. ? Besides the crushed ones...
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