(Topic ID: 76000)

Bounty Hunter owners club! AKA the other BH.

By PinDescabarian

10 years ago


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There are 163 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 4.
#51 10 years ago

Yup. Very unrewarding. very time consuming. Clearcoat costs are almost triple of what they were 8 years ago. Most of the time, a restoration will cost more than the cost of the whole game. Just not worth it anymore for either party.

#52 10 years ago
Quoted from HighProtein:

It's a fun little game that I wish I'd had picked up a year or so ago on CL.
One of few fun SS games to me.

Good luck finding a nice one today. I looked on eBay for one with no luck for some time. Luckily my sister new this person and I was able to get a good deal. It was his first and last Pinball machine. He is not very mechanical and currently looking for a stand up video game to fill the spot. I will probably be buying that when he finds out they need work as well.

#53 10 years ago

Nah, I have it about half way swapped into my game, no going back now.

Steve

Quoted from PinDescabarian:

Hey Steve. Let me know if you want to sell that playfield. I am sure that is a big no. You know what they say. It doesn't hurt to try. Right.

#54 10 years ago
Quoted from blownfuse:

Nah, I have it about half way swapped into my game, no going back now.

Let me know if you ever need help with the swap. Would love to learn how to do it, incase I get the chance to do a swap with mine. unfortunately I do not think I will find a NOS.

#55 10 years ago

OP, you should change the name of the thread from ''pricing'' to Bounty Hunter owners- some more bounty hunter lovers may come out of the wood work, and we can toss tips and ideas around about our machines

#56 10 years ago
Quoted from woz:

Hey Ron
Thanks for letting me play your BH and other fine games the other week - BH is a fun game and looks very cool!
Just thinking about your rail issue ... if the rail is too high off the playfield then the ball may be catching on the 90 degree bend (or the vertical bit that actually goes into the pf) at the top and sending the ball off track.
Woz

Warren, it was great to meet you, and also great to see more people enjoying playing some of my pins too

You have to come and play bounty now that the sound is up and running .. Don and Tommy from Nitro came by and we had a great visit and Don is my new 'hero' for getting the sound going too!! I keep saying it but the sounds, and particularly the base they got out of that one speaker really is something else ...!

we will get my side rail dialed in eventually too and i will likely work on improving some cosmetics a bit more yet, but it has turned out really really great - let me know when you are nearby again for sure

cheers, Ron

#57 10 years ago

Yes, or Bounty Hunter owner's club, I could post pics of my playfield swap as it's being done then. Or you could call it "Bounty Hunter's club, the other BH".

Steve

Quoted from shacklersrevenge:

OP, you should change the name of the thread from ''pricing'' to Bounty Hunter owners- some more bounty hunter lovers may come out of the wood work, and we can toss tips and ideas around about our machines

#58 10 years ago
Quoted from shacklersrevenge:

OP, you should change the name of the thread from ''pricing'' to Bounty Hunter owners- some more bounty hunter lovers may come out of the wood work, and we can toss tips and ideas around about our machines

Sounds good. I will change it.

#59 10 years ago
Quoted from blownfuse:

Or you could call it "Bounty hunter's club, the other BH".

The other BH it is!

#60 10 years ago

<blockquote cite="#1395lst thought of something else to look forbehind inny as well as what I posted before. Has the wiring harness to the coin door been pinched in the coin door hinge? If so, it's possible that a bare wire is grounding at the hinge too.
Steve

I checked and all seems kosher in this area. I did find a board behind the back box that seems suspicious. When it is touched slightly it resets the game.

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#61 10 years ago
Quoted from shacklersrevenge:

hmmm..resets or tilts?
did you look in front of the transformer? There is a set of bridge rectifiers there, and a couple resistors that go to them- if those sand resistors aren't soldered to the bridges, the game will reset. I had this happen on mine.

I looked in front of the transformer and found the resistors that go to the bridges. It looks pretty solid and does not reset machine when touched.

The part pictured above appears to be the problem. It seems like it was slapped in half assed. Glued on to the back board with a zip tie holding something. Can any one post a picture a picture so I can see the difference?

#62 10 years ago

Cool looking game Danny.
I don't know the game but I highly doubt that board should be zip tied. You mentioned glue...was the board glued to the second board or zip tied?

#63 10 years ago

yep, my board had that ''jumper helper'' board too. When my cpu finally shit the bed, I had Chris Hibler do some surgery to it, he did a straight job to that holder and replaced the rom. Oh, and i'm 99% sure (someone else can chime in here) that the board next to that on the right can be disconnected. I thought that is for a reset cycle when routed/left on, I can't remember exactly, but long story short, it's not needed.

#64 10 years ago
Quoted from loren3233:

Cool looking game Danny.
I don't know the game but I highly doubt that board should be zip tied. You mentioned glue...was the board glued to the second board or zip tied?

Hi Loren. Yes zipped, than glued on top of a second board! Looks like a routed special, quick fix by an operator.

I hand tweaked it some today and have not had any resets with aggressive nudging. Not sure I have seen the last of this. I will keep my fingers crossed for now. Hopefully it is an easy fix if it comes up again.

#65 10 years ago

Yep, the piggyback board, you'll probably have to solder suck the board and then reflow the solder after.

Steve

Quoted from PinDescabarian:

I did find a board behind the back box that seems suspicious. When it is touched slightly it resets the game.

#66 10 years ago

Does anyone have or know where I can purchase a Cactus Sam sticker for the drop target? My target is a see through plastic(missing Sam s face).

#67 10 years ago

Haven't seen one. I used to have a color version originally, but that's long gone. I used a black and white image from the manual by scanning/printing...I'd like another ''color'' version myself.

#68 10 years ago

I

Quoted from shacklersrevenge:Haven't seen one. I used to have a color version originally, but that's long gone. I used a black and white image from the manual by scanning/printing...I'd like another ''color'' version myself.

Good idea!

#69 10 years ago

I just bought one from the Pinball Resource. Target decal #24518 $1.40ea -NOS but the glue on the back has dried out -You will need to re-apply the glue!

Steve

#70 10 years ago

Thanks Steve.

2 weeks later
#71 10 years ago
Quoted from plowpusher:

My BH sits in my office so when it's break time a few good games make the book work more tolerable
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Best topper ever?
-mof

#72 10 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Best topper ever?
-mof

Thanks those are a pair of my dads old boots and some dice and chips from a casino i got ask to leave for tryen to count. Cards playing 21 in my younger days

#73 10 years ago

Okay, had a little time to post some pics of my NOS Bounty Hunter playfield swap. First, the stationary targets needed a lot of attention, I decided to replace with new instead of trying to repaint them. I ordered them from PBR with newer, more improved System 3 switches installed since they have a stronger backing and also a foam pad to help prevent air balls. Then I took a punch and popped out a hole in the center of some mylar so it'll fit over the rivet and protect the art from rubbing off like it did before. From there, the excess mylar is trimmed away.

Steve

Old target

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new target

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Mylar covers to protect the target faces from future ball wear

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Mylar before trimming

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#74 10 years ago

Here are some more pics of the finished targets installed and a comparison of the old and new pop bumper cap stickers. When I saw some previous pics of them (in this thread), I had no idea they had faded so badly, especially when the new ones showed up. I also replaced all the clear posts with new ones, new always looks better than old.

Steve

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#75 10 years ago

Here are some pics of the wiring harness being moved from the old playfield to the NOS one on the right. Then came complete flipper, pop bumper, kicker rebuilds and finally, pop bumper board mods.

More later.

Steve

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#76 10 years ago

What? Gottlieb love? UN-heard of! Glad you guys are keeping these around, I like this title.

#77 10 years ago

Someone has to do it, might as well be us.

Steve

Quoted from Chitownpinball:

What? Gottlieb love? UN-heard of! Glad you guys are keeping these around, I like this title.

#78 10 years ago

I'd like to see a video of the gameplay. There is only one on google, and it's from TNT...
Can an owner of this game, post a vid to youtube?
-mof

#79 10 years ago

I plan to post a vid when mine is completed, I'm not there yet.

Steve

#80 10 years ago

great stuff

I too am going to do a video on gameplay ... this really is a very very well designed table in my opinion

lots of options on challenging scoring and great variety of fluid shots

in my vid i will be sure to show off the great sound too

i had considered selling mine before i got the sound working ... its not going anywhere anytime soon now

steve - your targets look great and have inspired me to do mine .. did your nos playfield come with a factory mylar - i heard that most did not

cheers, Ron

#81 10 years ago

Yes, please post videos! I had the good fortune of playing one at a local pin auction, but the sound wasn't working. I'd love to hear what a BH sounds like. It might push me towards buying one.

#82 10 years ago

Getting my targets set up the way I wanted them was a slight delay with a lot of emails back and forth to Jimmy at PBR. At first he said they didn't have the target face in the colors I wanted, so I sent him a pic of the target. Then he said he had them but they were out of stock and I would have to wait for new ones to be made. In the end, all was good, the targets/switches were a little expensive but the results were what I wanted. Here's the part numbers from my PBR billing if you want to get them made the same way.

GTB-A12290 target face-circles White/Red
GTB-25460 spot target asy. (kit)
Service > install target face on switch

I've never seen a NOS GTB playfield that came from the factory with the mylar already installed (and I've seen and swapped out a lot of NOS playfields ).

Steve

Quoted from manitouguy:

steve - your targets look great and have inspired me to do mine .. did your nos playfield come with a factory mylar - i heard that most did not
cheers, Ron

#83 10 years ago

Here is a comparison of the old style of target switch with a System 3 target switch. The new switch has more support and I'll find out how well it performs later. Sorry, I didn't realize I had no pics of the new switch that show the design change so I had to take the second pic of the System 3 switch installed, looking down on it.

Steve

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#84 10 years ago

Steve, the playfield swap is coming along well. Hopefully it will be ready for PAGG. It looks great!

Do you have new playfield plastics for the new playfield?

Did you clear coat the new playfield?

#85 10 years ago

Yep, I have a NOS plastic set for it, also have NOS instruction cards. When I'm done, it'll be as close to NIB as can be given the circumstances. No clear on the playfield, new mylar, just like factory but a better fit.

Steve

Quoted from PinDescabarian:

Steve, the playfield swap is coming along well. Hopefully it will be ready for PAGG. It looks great!
Do you have new playfield plastics for the new playfield?
Did you clear coat the new playfield?

#86 10 years ago

Good job, and nice lights LOL

1 month later
#87 10 years ago

hi guys, a few questions for my bounty ...

i need to pull my upper ball guide rail out and look at bending it (i think it must have been bent out of shape at some point prior)

when the ball goes back up the right side it rarely makes it back into the upper a b c roll overs area

can someone advise ... what is the best / safest way to pull it from the playfield

i think i can see that the drill holes at each end go right through the playfield and it appears just 'friction fit' so its ends are just coming through the pf??

any opinions / advice much appreciated

thanks!

Ron

2 weeks later
#88 10 years ago

OK I'm in....my friend gave me this the other day for my arcade, because it fits the western theme. I love the art package, especially the backglass. It needs a thorough shop job, and just like everyone else's, a NOS playfield would be nice. The graphics on my plastics are good, but they need to flatten out, because they are warped. I will post more pictures of it, when I get time to mess with it, after I get back from MWGC. There are definitely some things you guys will be interested in seeing.

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#89 10 years ago

Nice score Hooch! Looks to be in great condition. Can't wait to see the pictures.

1 week later
#90 10 years ago

Hey guys, I also picked up a pretty darn nice Bounty Hunter. New rubber, almost no wear, cleaned, waxed, and plays great. Only issue I'm having is one you hit the start button about half the time it will start a two player game a second or two afterwards. I have no idea what the hell it could be. I took the button out, cleaned it. Anyone else have this issue?

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#91 10 years ago

Hey Guys,

I have played probably over a hundred some games on my Bounty Hunter. This title is by far the oldest title of my games and I am excited to start looking for a few other sys 80 pins. I really enjoy them!

#92 10 years ago
Quoted from policano:

This title is by far the oldest title of my games and I am excited to start looking for a few other sys 80 pins. I really enjoy them!

Same with me. For the price you can not beat them.

Quoted from policano:

I have no idea what the hell it could be. I took the button out, cleaned it. Anyone else have this issue?

Did you fix this problem?

#93 9 years ago

I cleaned it and it's better but having some issues still. Been playing it for hours lately!

1 week later
#94 9 years ago

I was wondering if anyone could tell me what the rating of the F15 Fuse. The one that is in the F15 spot is a 1 amp slow blow, but I can't find any info of it on the fuse cover or in the manual. It appears blown.

#95 9 years ago

Page 43 1/2 in the manual, just after the 24VDC bridge shows the F15 fuse, it calls for a 1 amp slo-blo. I believe it isn't used in Bounty Hunter though. That fuse is reserved for games with sound/speech boards, I've never seen one of these boards in a Bounty Hunter. My manual doesn't even show a sound/speech option. If yours has the sound/speech board, please post pics.

Steve

#96 9 years ago

Here is a picture of the fuses an some boards. Not sure what I am looking for.1399136163631.jpg1399136163631.jpg1399136163631.jpg1399136163631.jpg1399136279120.jpg1399136279120.jpg1399136257665.jpg1399136257665.jpg1399136210261.jpg1399136210261.jpg

#97 9 years ago

My F7 appears to be moved to here.1399136651427.jpg1399136651427.jpg

#98 9 years ago

If you look at the fuse cover, you'll see that F15 says "sound speech (when used)". The pic of your sound board isn't a sound/speech board so you don't put a fuse in F15, it remains empty. That's probably why the fuse blew in the first place, a fuse there was putting voltage where it doesn't belong. I hope it didn't damage your sound board.

Steve

#99 9 years ago

Correct me if I am wrong. In the picture above,the Fuse on the lowest portion of the fuse bridge is F1. F8 is the circular fuse below and to the left of the bridge of fuses.

#100 9 years ago

Yes, you are correct.

Steve

Quoted from PinDescabarian:

In the picture above,the Fuse on the lowest portion of the fuse bridge is F1. F8 is the circular fuse below and to the left of the bridge of fuses.

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