No power from F2K at all?
Rich

Yeah, the power board down in the bottom was pulled out, and it apparently doesn't turn on. I haven't had the time to investigate yet.

Now, I'm looking forward to the sounds of Panthera! It should be quite fun!

Power board pulled out? Yikes, that board was soldered in. Luckily there's replacement rectifier boards available. The original rectifiers were originally undersized and usually overheated and burned out by now. I have seen many of these get rebuilt with larger rectifiers. Marco has a nice replacement that has status LED's showing that the output voltages are within range. Pin-logic used to have a board with a connector kit that eliminates the need to solder but I don't know if he still has them. It's also a good idea got change the 44 lamps to 47's to take stress off the board and re-pin the connectors to Trifurcon connectors.

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The previous pics are of the Marco board. What's nice about it, is that the rectifiers are larger but still small enough that you can still keep the plastic guard on it. The only modification needed is to place the heatsink behind the mounting plate as opposed to placing it in between the rectifier board and mounting plate.

here ya go! http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/AS-2518-18-1

I forgot about Ed's, I think I got him mixed up with Pin-logic on my earlier post, yes his service is top notch.

$7 shipping? They made a mistake in your favor! I paid more than that for a small parts order.

I don't have any RD boards but I never hear anything bad about them. Make sure you get a diagram of where to solder the wire on the Stern board. There should be a number at each solder point.

How did you know the slings needed work before you got game running? The sling mechs on these games wear and the kicker will get sloppy. There's no replacements for these unless you find NOS or a game with low plays. On F2K I found that the upper left sling gets the least amount of hits and is usually less worn. I found that placing a nylon washer on the pivot shaft helps reduce the slop.

The solder points for the rectifier board can be found on pinwiki.
Rich

Oops, I meant the upper Right sling, not left. Are the sling switches okay? Or did somebody rob parts from it?

yeah that's a wicked hack. Looks like some replaced the board before by splicing and crimping. You would have to do what Xenon75 said and replace the wiring back to the transformer to make it right. I thought you said the rectifier board was removed? Did you plug in J1 and see if he powers up?

Thanks!
Can anyone identify this?

Looks like a flipper relay, is it on the F2K? It's weird that someone would pull out the entire transformer assy. unless to make it easier to work on it as pulling it out saves you from leaning over the cab. I think whoever did this never finished the job and left you a mess. Having and extra space on the connector housing is no biggie, you can trim it or let it hang over as long as it's keyed correctly. It can also be because This board is used in bally games and J1 has 9 pins instead of 8. Heres a few pics from one of my F2K's. J1 is important to be correct because it supplies the GI and Switches lamp bus and the flipper coil power. Notice there is 2 blue wires to run the switched lamps. Pin 4(counting from the left) is the key. The red wire on pin 1, start from there and you should be fine.

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I forgot to mention that you will need re-pin J1 as they take alot of heat. I don't see any switched lamps lit in your pic. Is game going into attract mode? I see garbage in the displays which indicates that the memory could need to be cleared. This may also help with the credit issue. Does the game chime when booting? It should chime 7 times and then go to attract.

The game won't coin up if it's not booting all the way. Chimes are a good indication that your sound board is working. Each time it chimes(LED on MPU blinks with the chime)is another step in the boot process. You can find out what each one means on Pinwiki or clays guides. IIRC only 2 chimes means bad 5101 ram(s). The MPU -200 uses 2 5101 chips as opposed to only 1 on bally games. The 5101 has to be atleast 3 nano seconds or faster. Is there any signs of battery leakage on the MPU?
Rich

You probably have flaky connectors. Typical of these old solid state games. So the MPU is clean? Try re-seating the mpu and solenoid driver connectors. You might have inconsistent voltages for the 5v and 12V needed to run the mpu. If you can get the game to boot fully and the displays are showing garbage, try to clear the audits. This is done thru the coin door switch test and using s33 on the mpu. Also run the self tests, lamps, coils, displays, etc.
I'm leaving for work so I can't reply until tomorrow, good luck,
Rich

Good guess but F2K doesn't have a GI relay.

The 5101 is very sensitive to static. Handle them carefully and as little as possible. Did you get the rectifier board installed yet? Reading back on this thread I see you almost had the pf fall on you? I never trust that prop rod on F2K because the wide pf combined with the weight of the massive DT bank makes the pf lean too much. That DT bank can actually hold 9 drops. The same unit is used on Nineball and uses 8 drop targets. What's nice is that there's a 24 pin plug that you can disconnect and easily remove the DT bank. Did you get the new drops from PBR?
Rich

When I work on F2K I used a long piece of wood to hold the up. There's a round hole under the apron that I prop it into. If you lean the pf on the head, you have to lift the bottom of the pf out and place it on the wooded slides so that the pf leans on an angle and won't fall, you have to watch that sharp parts on the pf don't scrape the wood trim on the head.

The game is confused if this is happening. Sounds like a switch adjustment. There's four switches in the ball maze area. Also check the micros at the trough. The trip wires for the micros are touchy. Buzz out the switches when all 3 balls are in the trough. Also the 4 switches in the maze area have caps, so check those as well.