(Topic ID: 330680)

Borrowed too much power to long?

By Mikenindy

1 year ago


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Topic Stats

  • 26 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Mikenindy
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 1 year ago

On my 86 road in the upper left-hand corner all the lights were out including two pop bumpers… After checking continuity over that string and all bulb’s..I came to the conclusion there was no power going to it… So I took a jumper wire and ran it over to the purple/purple white wires and got power from there… it did not dim the lights on that string so I figured it was not an issue… Everything appeared normal… That’s been about a month ago… Now I don’t have any G.I. lights at all…

#2 1 year ago

It’s not apparent what game you’re talking about, but I went to your old threads and saw you own a Road Kings.
Just to help other pinsiders diagnose the issue.

#3 1 year ago

What do the connectors look like on the power board? Specifically the lower right hand corner.

#4 1 year ago

Yeah I’m sorry I left a word out… Road Kings.. is this the board you’re referring to

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#5 1 year ago

I inspected the plug with the yellow green white purple etc. wires nothing looks burnt

#6 1 year ago

The power comes in through the yellow wires and goes through that relay and back out to those wires in the connector right next to. The ones matching the GI to the playfield. Test for current with it powered up and see if it makes it in from the yellow wires and back out to the GI wires. See where you are losing power.

#7 1 year ago

OK I understand what you’re saying but after I pull that plug to the G.I. wires where specifically do I put the probes from the multimeter

#8 1 year ago

Do simply find a ground and top the red probe to each pin?

#9 1 year ago
Quoted from Mikenindy:

Do simply find a ground and top the red probe to each pin?

Not for Gi, GI is AC. Hot to common not hot to ground.

Have you pulled GI fuse and checked with a meter ?

Bulbs good ?

LTG : )

#10 1 year ago

I have checked every fuse I could find for continuity in the back box a total of 12. I have gone through this entire game not a single bulb needs replaced

#11 1 year ago

For my information ..specifically which fuse is for the G.I.?

#12 1 year ago

So I would touch the red probe to the chassis ground… And touch each pin with the negative from the multimeter to check the output? Just wanna make sure I don’t want to mess anything up any further

#13 1 year ago
Quoted from Mikenindy:

For my information ..specifically which fuse is for the G.I.?

Manual will have that information. Did you remove the fuses from the board and check with a meter ?

Quoted from Mikenindy:

So I would touch the red probe to the chassis ground… And touch each pin with the negative from the multimeter to check the output?

No. Hot to common for AC, not ground. Youtube or Google, study up on testing AC voltage.

LTG : )

#14 1 year ago

I didn’t realize they needed to be removed from the board to be checked… The only videos I found were to check receptacles that’s pretty obvious how to do… Do I touch the probes on two adjacent pins from left to right???.

#15 1 year ago

To get a correct reading you need to touch both sides of the ac circuit with your dmm on ac. Look at the schematic to test. However if you do test to ground the reading will be off, but you should still see if there is current, but the test would be inconclusive if it was enough.

#16 1 year ago

But yes, to test the fuses, pull at least 1 side from the holder and test for continuity.

#17 1 year ago

Thanks !!..I don’t know what that means though ..both sides of the circuit..??..I don’t know how to read schematics unfortunately

#18 1 year ago

Let’s just assume there’s no power at the board. What is that most likely culprit the relay?..

#19 1 year ago

On the transformer is a yellow plug. That burns as well at times causing a failure.

#20 1 year ago

Your GI comes from the transformer in the form A/C as 2 wires being yellow & a yellow/white.

It then splits into 2 yellow and 2 yellow white wires and joins to the board at the bottom right hand corner in your picture which is the power supply board.

One yellow & yellow/white go to the relay above which is the blue rectangular cube and out at pins 6, 7 ,8 & 9 and the other yellow and yellow/white wires become your 5 AC pairs which are fused by the 4 fuse bank underneath.

these are seen at J8 next to where the GI came in as 4 wires.

white/violet & violet is one pair and white/yellow & yellow is one pair that do backbox or playfield, don't see it listed in schematics

white/green & green is one pair and white/brown & brown is one pair that do backbox or playfield, don't see it listed in schematics

white/yellow & yellow does 2 pairs,

so there is a total of 5 pairs to control the GI lighting, 1 would be for the coin door, 2 for the backbox and 2 for the playfield.

so to test for AC use the connector J8 which is a 9 pin connector with the 4 solid wires to the right and the 4 with tracers to the left, put one probe on say the brown and the other on the matching pair being brown/white, violet and violet/white etc.

as mentioned earlier, before any testing and with the power OFF, flip out one leg of each fuse and test for continuity.

#21 1 year ago

OK thanks for simplifying that as to where the probes go… I suspected the same… Put a probe on a solid color wire and the other with the same color with the addition of the white.

#22 1 year ago

Lights are working again much appreciate the information it is invaluable!!

#23 1 year ago
Quoted from Mikenindy:

Lights are working again much appreciate the information it is invaluable!!

So what was the problem... It's not respectful to ask for help and not review the resolution....

#24 1 year ago

Two of the fuses were blown I checked them several times ..i’ve never owned anything with a slow blow fuse.. Visually they were intact and checked good while still in the holder. But after removing them they did not have continuity

#25 1 year ago
Quoted from Mikenindy:

Two of the fuses were blown I checked them several times ..i’ve never owned anything with a slow blow fuse.. Visually they were intact and checked good while still in the holder. But after removing them they did not have continuity

You just learned one of the most important tenets in pinball repair....with fuses...how they look and how they test in the holder is of zero value - remove one side and test....

#26 1 year ago

I thought I had the probes touching only the end-caps of the fuse.. For obvious reasons… But lesson learned

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