Bobby Orr's Power Play
Bally, 1978SEE POST 8
On Power Play, hitting the center standup target activates the Post between the flippers. If I’m correct the ball hitting the 2 rollovers (center of playfield) and the two save (inner) lanes will cause the post to go down. I am experiencing the post going down when the ball hits the slingshots as well, this isn’t normal correct? If not, fix?
not normal. we have a whole thread dedicated to this machine. lift play field. start machine , activate post then hit play field with hand see if it activates the down on post. or if activating the sling by hand see if it makes it drop. start there.
Quoted from thc666:not normal. we have a whole thread dedicated to this machine. lift play field. start machine , activate post then hit play field with hand see if it activates the down on post. or if activating the sling by hand see if it makes it drop. start there.
Quoted from RonSwanson:Sounds like it could be a switch matrix problem. Check for shorts and bad diodes.
Thank you both for the post and for a starting point!
Quoted from thc666:not normal. we have a whole thread dedicated to this machine. lift play field. start machine , activate post then hit play field with hand see if it activates the down on post. or if activating the sling by hand see if it makes it drop. start there.
If I hit the pf with my hand it doesn’t activate. I checked for closely gapped switches for which I found none.
If I hit the left slingshots it activates the post. I did switch out the diode to no avail.
Quoted from meSz:If I hit the pf with my hand it doesn’t activate. I checked for closely gapped switches for which I found none.
If I hit the left slingshots it activates the post. I did switch out the diode to no avail.
One way to rule out really sensitive switches would be to place tape or a piece of paper between the star rollover switch contacts, then activate the slings. If the post still goes down we know something is going on. Do the rollover switches have the little disc caps on them? I believe they should, but not positive. That could be an issue. Last thing to check is the inlane switches. They too cause the post to go down. They may be gapped really close and causing this issue.
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:One way to rule out really sensitive switches would be to place tape or a piece of paper between the star rollover switch contacts, then activate the slings.
So I did this and wanted to share what i did. Typically I use tape but, being lazy, I didn’t want to run downstairs to get it. I had a few dime wrappers. What’s nice is, no tape to peel off and being that paper coin wrappers are flat the just slide over the switch. They stay in place unlike a single piece of paper.
I looked at these switches a few times and all were gapped nicely. I put the coin wrapper on all switches that activate the post down. Come to find that the save lane on the right side was bouncing too much, when the slingshot was activated, this causing the switch to close. Come to find that, although the leafs were gapped property, the spring leaf wasn’t. This was allowing the two leafs to touch. Problem solved!
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:Do the rollover switches have the little disc caps on them?
For the record, yes they do!
Thanks again for the assistance!
So I’m back East and am trying again to em resolve issue with BOPP. I had installed a Pinheads power supply board and am experiencing machine rebooting during play.
Not the most technical guy but can solder and follow directions . Am I correct in assuming that I am losing voltage thus causing the machine to reboot?
It could be several things, including a blip in the 5 volt power.
You will have to put a meter on the five volts and see if it drops while playing to verify it’s the five volts. Strange that a new power supply would start to fail so quickly.
Quoted from Billc479:It could be several things, including a blip in the 5 volt power.
You will have to put a meter on the five volts and see if it drops while playing to verify it’s the five volts. Strange that a new power supply would start to fail so quickly.
Apologies to ask but can anyone point me to where the 5v is?
Was going to reach out to Pinheads but apparently they don’t have any way to contact them. Only reference to distributors.
Also, anyone familiar with Pinheads board, can someone confirm if my thinking is correct here.....on the board there’s 5 green LEDs are these all illuminated when the board is functioning properly? Mine are all green
image (resized).jpgQuoted from Billc479:It looks like TP1 is the five volts. It’s silkscreened on the circuit board.
Since I’m no electrical engineer ..... picture as to meter setup and contact points... reading 3.45v
EFA4A486-A158-48B9-B382-DBB61D6F58FF (resized).jpeg
Again, played few more games and no issue. So not sure what’s going on.
Another issue that happened, yet to duplicate, was in the middle of a game and chimes starts to play starting new game chime. Game hadn’t ended nor was it interrupted but it did start the score and ball in play over.
Quoted from Billc479:Put the pointer on the meter to DC bolts and try again. You’re on AC volts.
The chimes playing in mid game is because something is getting the wrong signal. Let’s work on power supply first.
So you’re saying I should put the cocktail down? 
Seriously, appreciate the input and my bad for not paying attention. Getting between 6.1 and 6.3v.
image (resized).jpg
The real trick is getting a voltage reading while drinking the cocktail.
It’s really difficult to find an intermittent problem. You will likely have to wait till the chimes activate all the time.
Meanwhile, enjoy the game.
So after playing two dozen games, without issue, my son came home so I had him play a few games while I monitored the meter. Played without issues but a minute after I removed the meter and shut the back box the game reset.
I hooked the meter back up and he played another game. Second ball and game shut down. Split second that it took me to look at the meter and still while game was resetting the meter reflected 6.02.????
Unfortunately, you won’t see the dip with a digital meter. You need an analog, and unless it’s a recording meter, you will never know how low the voltage goes.
See if there’s a pattern of resets after hitting a target or other scoring point. Also, run a switch test to see if there’s a certain switch causing the glitch.
There are two slam switches on the game. One on the door and another by the tilt in the cabinet. If these are too sensitive the game will slam reboot. You should examine them and maybe disconnect them to insure they are not the problem.
Quoted from BigAl56:Lets look in the backbox. Show us pictures of the rest of the boards. What does the LED on the MPU board do when you try and start the game? Check the fuses on the rectifier board too while your at it.
Okay so got time to look tonight and found F5 (20amp) blew. Put new one in and game is powered back up and playing.
However, played maybe 10 games and encountered a few issues:
During play, like before, game just stopped. No flippers, pops or anything with coils worked. Ball drained, obviously, and it continues to next ball.
Center target registers 80% of the time. It appears the harder it’s hit the less it registers. Checked and it’s gapped appropriately.
Lastly, during play I was hitting the flippers a lot. Trying to get more things powered to put a load in the game. In doing this the ball went into the kick out hole and then game acted if the ball drained and started to give all the points. Once it finished with points game kicked the ball out of the kick out hole and ball in play advanced to next ball. Game just kept playing.
All the above issues weren’t happening prior to installing the Pinhead PS board. Not blaming the board, just giving as many details as possible!
FYI- the game is running all Altek boards with the exception of the Pinheads Power Supply board.
If all the coils die, including the flippers, but the game keeps playing otherwise, that could be a problem with the 5v jumper between pins 13-25 on the SD-J3 connector. When that goes bad or the pins gets loose your coils will quit. A wiggle of the connector will get the coils on and off.
Center target needs a .05 or .047 capacitor across it or it will not register quick hits.
It sounds like the kickout hole is somehow miswired and the game thinks it's the outhole.
None of these should be the fault of the new rectifier board.
Quoted from BigAl56:If all the coils die, including the flippers, but the game keeps playing otherwise, that could be a problem with the 5v jumper between pins 13-25 on the SD-J3 connector. When that goes bad or the pins gets loose your coils will quit. A wiggle of the connector will get the coils on and off.
Center target needs a .05 or .047 capacitor across it or it will not register quick hits.
It sounds like the kickout hole is somehow miswired and the game thinks it's the outhole.
None of these should be the fault of the new rectifier board.
BigAl, appreciate the replies and for trying to help! First thing first, in no way am I blaming the new rectifier board. I don't want people thinking that Pinhead's board is flawed in any way! Only reason I mention the new board is .... the issues I am having were not occurring prior to installing the new board.
With that said, Cory (Pinheads) has emailed me back and, like you just mentioned, advised that he feels the issue is in the connector as well. So I will start there.
As for the standup target, again this was working without issue prior to the new rectifier board install BUT certainly understand that the capacitor could've broken loose or gone bad. I will look into this as well.
Again, thanks for the post. The only issue now is .... I am back West so I wont be able to look into this until I go back East.
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Kitchener, ON
Auburn, AL
