I have a switch problem on my Bride of Pinbot. I have been following the test procedures of a really great article on switch matrixes by Pinballrehab http://www.pinballrehab.com/1-articles/solid-state-repair/repair-guides/146-switch-matrix-theory-and-troubleshooting#comment-362

So far I have checked the CPU board by using the jumper test on J209 and J207
I have confirmed continuity of the send and return wires of the switch matrix column 5 grn-blk.

I have tested the switches and diodes for continuity and this what I have found
Note, in my testing I first tested across the switch the send and return terminals and keeping the test leads in the same position tested the diode. I then reversed the test leads and tested again across the switch, then across the diode and recorded the results.

Column. Across switch. Across diode
SW # 1st/2nd. 1st/2nd
51 spinner. Y / N. N / Y
52 shooter. Y / N. Y / Y
53 Ur jet bmp. Y / N. N / Y
54 Ul jet bmp. Y / Y. Y / N
55 low jet bmp. Y / N. N / Y
56 jet sling bmp. Y / N. N / Y
57 left sling shot. Y / Y. Y / N
58 right slingshot. Y / N. N / Y

Any help interpreting my test results would be greatly appreciated.

I tested the return lines or row ( if I am understanding correctly) from switch back to the j209 (ie wht/green ) and there was continuity on all. The game used to tell me switch 54, the jet bumper is still not working. The other switches 57 ,left slingshot seem to be working but I cant tell by playing if one of the two of them is not-it still kicks out the ball. The shooter switch may or may not be working I am not sure what it does.

You are understanding correctly Y=continuity and N=OL no continuity. Grumpy everything you say could be the case. The electronics could very well be that messed up backwards and shorted. I bought this game as a "players game" and am restoring it for my own small collection. I have no idea how many owners it has had or who worked on it.

Sounds like a great plan. I am going to give it a try and let you know how it goes. Thanks

We are without power going on day 4. I will get back to you both once day light comes.

Terryb, I finally tested the row 4, wht/yel this morning. Still no power but we have daylight!
Everything checked out for continuity, except for switch plumb bob tilt #14. I am not sure how to test it besides putting the test lead on the wht/yel wire connected to the plumb bob ring.

But get this is there something wrong with this picture of switch 58?

14892461562671629458318 (resized).jpg

The diode crosses over the switch gap , comparing it to the other switches of this kind the diode should be connected to the center tab , not the outer one, as it now. I am not an electrical expert or claim to be anything even closed, but but with the switch wired like this doesn't it allow the flow of current even though the switch isn't closed?

Also another note about that switch the green black wire should be on the outer far left tab , right now both the send and return are on the same side of the switch.

Ah thanks Grumpy for the explanation, makes sense now. That switch was wired differently from the other two so I was hoping if it were rewired like the other two it would fix everything.

Progress report , I re-jumper tested the j209 and J207 pins on the CPU board during switch edges test and everything checks out. During switch levels test I came across a closed switch, #67 Face position. I don't want to be a chicken little again , like the slingshot switches yesterday please check out the wiring on the #67 switch.

1489356426781-22626740 (resized).jpg

This switch contradicts that really cool diagram of switch wiring that Terryb so gratiously posted.

Hmm during switch test, it comes up as sw#67 (A) closed. Blinks and makes a sound like it's giving me the bird. Could it be a bad switch as opposed to it should be normally open?

Thanks Pinwiz I will just keep searching then

I have tested all the rows and all the columns everything has continuity that I have been able to test. Let me clarify some switches I cant get a reading but I am not sure why the flipper switches 11,12, coin door closed 22, start button 13, slam tilt 21, ticket opto 23, basically anything in the cabinet I am not getting any Ohm readings. Is there a trick to testing these switches? I also should mention that this is not the machines original coin door but looks like every thing is there.

Oh boy I think I have problems then. I dont know how to begin to show you , other than take pictures of the switches and see if you can tell why I am not getting any continuity (either row or column). I am testing with the game off and the connector J209 ,J206 disconnected from the cpu board.

Here are some pictures of the switches/ areas. Let me know if it makes any sense to you ,please.

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I also just noticed "cabinet switches" J212 and "direct switches" J205 connectors on the CPU board. I need to test these? Do these have the same relationship , column/row that j209 and j206 have? Can these be jumper tested also? Thanks I am such a noob.

So the interconnect board is the board on the inside left side of the cabinet, Last picture of my previous post? How would I test it? Check the continuity from the backbox to the board?

Hello, I have retested ,very thoroughly and methodically all the rows and columns from the back box to the playfield and to the interconnectivity board A-14102 for continuity and everything checked out. I got out the schematics for th interconnect board and confirmed the correct wires went to the correct pins. Th only abnormality I found on pin 7 of J6 connector had a grn/red instead of grn/brn going to th plumb Bob tilt switch #14. This is of no consequence since row one still connects to as #14.
There was only one switch I could not find to test, switch 23 ticket opto, everything else has been tested for continuity and passed.

I don't know what to do next? Check the diodes? Also I am curious about whether the Pinitech WPC Reverse Switch tester would be a good thing for my problems. I understand there are a few still available. I might be able to snag one.

Thanks

I have continuity on 14-18. Switches 11,12, I can't find on the matrix . The flippers are wired separately and those heavy gauge wires go directly to the power driver board , connector J109. There are no grn/brn or wht/brn or wht/red wires from the switch matrix present at the flipper switches. From the interconnect board I was able to test and confirm continuity for the matrix switches ,21,22,13,14, but no flipper switches 11,12,or ticket opto 23, listed in the switch matrix.

Those cut wires are "ctr coin 2", pin 5 and "rt coin 3", pin6 on J3 . I don't know if they matter, this is not the original coin door I was told it was from another machine, meaning it didn't match the original. So when I first saw them I discounted them as meaning nothing but maybe they do?

Terryb, just checked 14-18 and they come up working as well as 11, 12, 13. While I was at it I tested all the other switches of the matrix and the only two that don't register at all are 54 UL Jet bumper and now 51 spinner.

Terryb , I believe the post above is causing confusion, my fault. I posted this before I knew anything about J212 on the cpu board. After, with your help, I figured out how to test these send and return lines. I successfully got continuity on the grn/brn and grn/red send, from cpu to the interconnect board and from the interconnect board to all those cabinet switches. The same for the return lines wht/brn, wht/red, wht/org, wht/yel.

So I ran the switch test and every switch was accounted , except 54 UL Jet bumper and 51 spinner. This morning I checked continuity on column 5, grn/blk and row 1 wht/brn trying to diagnose the spinner 51 and there is continuity everywhere. This is driving me nuts- lol I am going to recheck the header pins/connections J212, J209, J207 next.

Terryb, switches 51 and 54 both have two row wires and two column wires .

FYI , the switches in the row 1 , that only have one wire is sw.21 slam tilt( cabinet switch, one white and one grn, they all have just one wire row and column) and sw. 31, skill shot 50k (one wht/brn wire).

The switches in row 4 with one wire are sw34, one white and two grn/blk,and above playfield sw.64, 74 have one grn and one wht running to them.

Column 5 is the easy one just one switch #52 has one grn/blk and one wht/red wire running to it.

And now for the pictures.... note the cpu board that has been jumpered. I tested the header pins yesterday and they all passed.

connectors J207, J209 (resized).jpg

pins and connectors (resized).jpg

Header pins (resized).jpg

Socket repair (resized).jpg

CPU board front (resized).jpg

CPU board back (resized).jpg

Socket repair back (resized).jpg

I do not have a logic probe, andI do not have a cpu board to swap out. I checked my Creature from the black lagoon and the boards don't match.

I was thinking of sending this board out to have it tested and have a NVram and socket installed while it was being looked at.

I am also wondering if its time to be testing the diodes or since the continuity test are all checking out- its time to check the cpu board?

I would definitely test the diodes on the two non-working switches.
Also jumper across the switch and see if it is then sensed as being closed. Jumper from NO to NC.</blockquote

Terryb, as I have said before I'm a noob. NO to NG?

Thanks I will take a much closer look, thanks I really appreciate everyone's help on pinside.

Well jumpering NO to NC works! Both 51 and 54 closed. Checking the diodes now. I am going to resolder one leg to get the readings.

Sw.34 reads .514 and OL the other way. Sw.54 reads .546 and OL the other way . Stripes are all going the right way.

Terryb, I jumperedested it from band side to the NO lug and nothing happened in the switch edges test.

Terry I mispoke I typed sw34- I meant to type 51. The switches in question are 51 and 54.

I took pictures of 51 and 54 and here are the switches you can see the diodes....

sw 51 (resized).jpg

sw 54 (resized).jpg

Thanks I'm going to give that a try. Stay tuned...many thanks

Terryb, While I am waiting for parts to arrive. I wanted to show you the spinner switch. You said you hadn't ever seen one quite like this. See if this makes any sense to you. I am confused. Theoretically can this even function as a switch in the switch matrix?

Cherry switch 4 (resized).jpg

Cherry switch back 1 (resized).jpg

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Cherry switch 1 (resized).jpg

Cherry Switch 2 (resized).jpg

Cherry switch back (resized).jpg

Well I have good news. I replaced both sw.51 and sw.54 and it works! I can't say which was bad , probably a solder break , because the diodes and switches checked out when I pulled them out of the machine but I replaced them anyway. I redid all the wiring and soldering..... "She's Alive!" I_B_BOP_in Tonight! Thank you Mr Grumpy and a big thanks to Terryb , I learned so much trying to fix this problem- I not an expert but I do now know my way around the switch matrix. Cheers! I am so Happy!!!!!!!!!