(Topic ID: 114943)

BOP restomod & repo PF feedback (finished with lots of pics)

By 85vett

9 years ago


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  • 201 posts
  • 38 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by Buthamburg
  • Topic is favorited by 28 Pinsiders

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider mustangpaul.
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#10 9 years ago

Wish I had the time, place, money to do all that to mine. Great job, I'll be following.

2 weeks later
#23 9 years ago

When ya see the parts in one place like on your pool table it really hits home how many parts there are in a game. And that's not ALL the parts either.

#26 9 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

No joke. Seems like I've got parts falling out of my ears.
Got some more work done tonight. Got the ground braid, lock bar receiver, transformer, power outlet and flipper switches installed. If you see something I'm doing wrong call it out. This is my first restoration so I'm open to suggestions/feedback to get it right. The ground braid has me nervous. I matched it the best I could to the pics I took.

cab 3.jpg 74 KB

cab 4.jpg 121 KB

Looks great to me. I just wish I could do that to my Bride. To many irons in the fire right now.

3 weeks later
#31 9 years ago

I'll bet your just itchin to fire up that sound amp. Beautiful work. And while we're waiting why don't you take us on a tour of the Rat Fink next to the bride.

#40 9 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

You have no idea. It's killing me letting it sit here waiting for a PF. I half thought about putting the old one back in just to play it but figured patience is better than potentially messing something up in the process.
As for the virtual cab. The graphics is my concept. I rough sketched out some ideas and had a graphic artist make it look like it belonged. My favorite part is the wrap around flags but they were also the part that I regretted the most when it came time to install the graphics. They had to be perfect to line up right.
Here is a video I made talking about what is in the game -
» YouTube video
I went fairly high end on the cab but here are the details:
Cab:
- 100% hand built to fit the TV. I used a Williams cab's dimensions to get the basic shape and idea and then stretched a few things to make it wide enough for the TV's without having to notch out anything or cut the TV's down.
PC:
- Intel I5 2500K (overclocked)
- 16 gigs ram
- 850w power supply
- 120 gig samsung SSD
- 2 GTX 460 SC
- Win 7 64
TV's:
- 46" Samsung LED UN46D6000SF - Playfield
- 32" Insignia LED - Back Glass
- 19" dynex - DMD
Force Feedback:
- 12V power supply
- 24V power supply
- 8 Siemens 24V contactors (Flippers, left, right, rear and back pop bumpers)
- Williams replay knocker
- 3 RGB's
- 2 strobes
- gear motor
- shaker motor
- 3 200mm fans
Sound system:
- 2 - 5.25 polk audio 2 way speakers in the head
- 1 - 10 inch polk audio sub in the cab
- 1 - 4 channel car amp that drives the sub and 5.25 speakers with it's built in crossover.
Some extra pics.

IMG_6020.jpg 151 KB

IMG_6021.jpg 89 KB

Damn that's beautiful. The Rat Fink theme is perfect for a real pin and your cab and bb art nail it perfectly. I really do have to put your sound amp set-up in my STPro, I bought nice 2 way, 4 ohm bb speakers only to find that Stern put 8ohm in. With 2 way in the bb can I get away with just having and xternal sub?

#44 9 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Honestly, I find the Stern BB speakers just fine now. I used to buy FF kits for every game I bought but now I just put an external sub on and call it a day. I'm always disappointed with the BB speakers after an upgrade and the sub seems to make things better. If I could find a good direct replacement BB speaker I'd try that but I'm done with kits.
I'd love to better answer that question but I'm not an audiophile so I don't know what could potentially hurt something or help.

I see but why did ya put the amp in, to drive the stock speakers better?

#47 9 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

If you are talking about the BOP, that is factory for the 2.0 kit. I believe it is needed to run the sound since better since it's coming out of a computer now. Kind of for the same reason I have one in the cab.
If you are talking about the virtual cab. I put it in there as I didn't feel the computer would be able to drive the sound as much as I wanted. This also gave me the ability to separate the highs and lows for the speakers in question.

The one in my virtual cab works perfectly. Can't speak about the one in my 2.0 yet though. I've heard in the 2.0 kit that the sound is awesome though.

WOW that comes with the 2.0 kit, nice. Are the kit speakers 4 or 8ohm?

#49 9 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Honestly not sure. It's basically a Flipper Fidelity kit with the amp being added. It comes with the kit if you order the upgraded sound package.

Bummer.

3 weeks later
#52 9 years ago

That my friend is a thing of beauty.

#56 9 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Im guessing there are no pilot holes or dimples on the underside?

For the money they want for that thing there had better be.

#58 9 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Fully dimpled and drilled on both sides
I've got 3 good coats are carnauba wax on it now and am in the process of drilling all the dimples/holes on the top side to make sure that when I'm installing the screws it doesn't split the clear.
Front and back showing the dimples/drillings.
IMG_6098.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
IMG_6099.jpg (Click image to enlarge)

Nice, does it look like they all match up with your original pf? Also, are ya gonna secure the T-nuts with screws?

#63 9 years ago

I meant the T nuts on the underside of the pf. Did you put them in BEFORE you started assembling the top side?

#65 9 years ago

You still have to hammer them in, the screws are just there to ensure that they will never spin not to replace them having to be hammered in.

#68 9 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

I'm hoping home depot has them in stock.

Any good hardware store should have them, I picked some up at Ace Hardware.

#69 9 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

I did find my first fitment issue. I'm not sure if the right rail is to high or the post is to low but it was an easy fix either way. Just needed to make some room for the rubber. Not super happy with the cutout I made as I made it bigger than I wanted but overall it came out good. Just used a sander bit on my dremel.

That was an easy fix.

#71 9 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Found some and installed them. All are installed now.
*** Missing hole located ***
This hole point out in red was missing. I screwed up and took a pic of it missing but forgot to put the memory card back in the camera... Was an easy fix but requires drilling a new hole. I'll let Peter know so that he can add it on future PF's.
How I did this was I installed the front peg loosely. I then moved the other peg to where it should have been and tapped lightly on it with a hammer. This marked the PF where I needed to drill. Very small pilot hole was drilled and alignment was checked. All was good so I drilled it out with the right sized bit (not sure what size as my bits aren't marked).
One could argue that metal guide is not needed but since it's in the pops I figured it was there to help keep the ball from getting shot under the rubbers. Factory so I installed it.
IMG_6106.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
Edit *** Found a pic that shows the missing hole.***
IMG_6098.jpg

Why does that one star post hang over the pf? And I think you inserted the wire to deeply, my original actually sticks up twice as far as yours so it's above the rubber ring. If you get a strong pop hit it might launch the ball up into the bottom of the plastic on top. Also to me it looks like you have the wrong style of star posts on there. Shouldn't they be the one rubber post not the fatter 2 rubber post. The single rubber star posts are what's on my game. You'll never get the rubbers on the star post that's next to the metal post on the right. Just guessing here.

#81 9 years ago

vett, looks like yours is right and mine is wrong.

Quoted from 85vett:

Does anyone know what post is supposed to go here? My game had a plastic post there (First pic) while the one on HEP's image gallery is a small metal post like what you see in front of the inlanes. I'm leaning towards using the same post HEP did as he know's his stuff but wanted to see if anyone knew for sure what was supposed to be there.
My game from my resource pics
IMG_5375.jpg
From the HEP site. I've been using his pics as much as possible to correct previous "adjustments" made to the game by the route owner that owned this before me.
IMG_5392 copy.jpg (Click image to enlarge)

Mine has a blur star post there, probably wrong.

#87 9 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Got the pop bumpers installed. This was the part I was the most nervous about and it went really smoothly. Everything fit perfectly as usual.

Are you gonna put pop cap led rings in? This is what it looks like.

IMGA0826.JPGIMGA0826.JPG IMGA0827.JPGIMGA0827.JPG IMGA0828.JPGIMGA0828.JPG
#88 9 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

After the skill shot is shot, the ball lands on wood, where several rollover switches are, my playfield there has taken a mad beating over the years, is there any protection for new playfields?

The only thing I can think of is some thick mylar and or a Cliffy for every switch slot.

#90 9 years ago

Oh man that's beautiful, your doing a great job. You have any used plastics you want to sell? I need a few.

#93 9 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

I can check to see how my old ones look for the parts you need. Which ones do you need? I recall that my chest plastics were both broken but don't recall the others.

These are the three I need. The triangle piece not the wireform cover. The other 2 you can see are broken. Thanks.

IMGA0840.JPGIMGA0840.JPG IMGA0841.JPGIMGA0841.JPG IMGA0842.JPGIMGA0842.JPG
#95 9 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Yeah, I have those. $20 shipped sound alright? The chest plastic is a home made vedo since mine was broken. I'll get you pics. Just shoot me a PM with your e-mail address.

Just now sent. Thanks

#102 9 years ago

Are you going to put any extra sockets in the empty holes in the pf? There are a couple on the very left top corner. I put a couple of red bulbs up there which really look nice.

#106 9 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

PF and cab have once again been married together. I still have a lot of detail work to wrap up but I'm almost there. Nerves are already starting with the first start up lingering. Everything fits like a glove. No FH PF issues (being to long). Got a good amount of clearance on the sides of the PF between it and the cab too.
IMG_6158.jpg (Click image to enlarge)

#108 9 years ago

WOW...congrats and believe me when I say it looks every bit as good as a HEP. FABULOUS job. I bow to you sir.

#116 9 years ago

I want to see and hear a nice looooong glass off vid.

#118 9 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

I'll make one once I get my missing rubbers and all the bugs are worked out. I'll leave the glass on but will borrow the invisiglass that is on one of the other games in my house so it wont glare for the camera.

Sounds good, it's the only way I'll ever get to see and hear the new system.

#128 9 years ago

I really like the look of it with the clear rubbers on it. How many of each size did you need for the game? Are you going to put a led strip in the center drain?

#140 9 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Here is why I did the decals and legs the way I did -
- I put black on as I hated the purple. I think the purple cabs look stupid and I never understood why they would do this. It's supposed to be a space theme and last I checked space was dark.
- I wanted something different. Life is pretty boring without variety. Why do a lot of the TWD LE owners want to replace their rusty look hardware with the Blood spattered hardware? It's because people think it looks better and fits the theme better.
- I went with the purple hardware over Black or chrome as I wanted to tie in the backglass and DMD panel with the game plus keep some homage to the purple. Plus I thought Black rails would be too black and I'm not a fan of chrome rails.
At the end of the day I'm happy with it. I can also respect that you like the purple better and I wont dog that but I would hope you could respect the fact that I like the black better. I think that is all BTW was getting at as well.

There was really no reason to explain why you did what you did, as you can see you are only feeding the sharks. Some Pinsiders feel the need to tell you EXACTLY why they don't like what you do with your game which says to me that they are lacking in the social graces. A simple "I like your workmanship but I don't agree with your color choices" would have been the nice way of putting it. BTW I love what you chose to do with your game. But I guess some don't want to be nice.

#141 9 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

I'll check my chart and share with everyone.

Thanks vett, very nice of you.

#148 9 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Here is what I got. I'm hoping I didn't miss something. I always buy extra so my receipt wasn't much help so I tried to pair things up with the parts on the game.
Mini Playfield - I didn't use the stock arrangement in the top right. I went with 7/16 on all the post vs using a couple of larger rings spanning multiple post.
16 - 7/16" - http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3174
3 - 1 1/4" - http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3180
2 - 1 1/2" - http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3181
Main Playfield -
3 - 2 1/2" (slings) - http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3184
14 - 5/16" (star post, remember I used the double rubber post under the mini playfield) - http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3176
1- 1 1/2" (right lane guide under mini playfield) - http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3181
2 - 2" (left lane guide under mini playfield, recall I used the double rubber post there too) - http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3183
5 - post sleeves - http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3304
1 - 7/16" (this is the post by the lower right 5k target. Check to see if you have a star post, reg post or mini post there)- http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3174
2 - flipper rubbers
Depending on how tight you want your inlanes, either:
2 - 3/8" - http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3173
-or-
2 - 7/16" - http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3174

Thanks for that vett.

#154 9 years ago

Man you are REALLY lucky that you could just drive over and have a major repair done like that. Could that be fused some how to prevent that from happening? As you can tell I don't know anything about electronics.

#163 9 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Dang it. Forgot to adjust that. This should work now.
» YouTube video

Dang that looks fun, makes me want to play mine. One thing I saw was that the ball never went into her eyes and mouth and never heard "I can see" and "I can speak" and I saw the head rotate 2 times in a row. Is that because the code isn't finished yet. And the same music kept playing over and over again like the ending where it does da da daaaaa da. That was driving me crazy.

#167 9 years ago
Quoted from calvin12:

Face 1 and 3 are used now. You won't get I can hear or see. They do plan to use the other faces. Remember, this is not CCC where this is completing an unfinished game. This is a ground up new game.

I see but they had the original voice woman doing the voice and to hear her do those call outs and laugh without any blaring music is just priceless on the old game.

#169 9 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

For 2.0 it would be nice to have the head move to the mouth lock for jackpot number one. Then they should have you lock the balls back in the shuttle lock (can't move the head if you can't guarantee that all balls are not going to be shot up the ramp) and then have the head move to the eye locks. At this point you have to shoot 2 balls up to the head and lock in each eye to get a SUPER jackpot. That would be cool and use the head more. Would be even cooler if the super jackpot's value was determined by the number (and how well you played) the modes. This would put more meaning on the modes being done before MB.

That sounds like really good info, you should send them those suggestions.

#175 9 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

I'm already itching to start another restoration.

UH...UH...UH you could do my pf swap, I've got a NOS pf. I've got new ramps, mini pf, helmet and skill shot plastics already on the pf in the game.

#177 9 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Don't tempt me. My wife and I have been talking about doing these on the side for people as a hobby

It would be cool but man the shipping would be a killer. I have a local guy that would do it for $750

#180 9 years ago

Yes Brian but the beer prices he charges are a killer. I do love his work but waaaay out of my price range. If I won the lotto I could keep him VERY busy.

#186 9 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Appreciate it. Loving the PF and I hope that my notes help to make the next batch even easier to install.

So does the new pf make the shots easier make.

2 weeks later
#192 8 years ago
Quoted from castlesteve:

makes sense. Street value and top end restored do not share any data points. It's worth what people are willing to pay.

Yup, no price policing here, it's a beautiful game and it's worth what someone who wants a top custom resto will pay and that could be north of 7k.

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