Montreal, QC
Quoted from lb1:Flip the next day. Use soft towels to protect the underside.
What you mean exactly? Wait 1 day before doing the other side. And use towels to catch any dripping water?
(Topic ID: 163782)
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Machine: Bride of Pinbot, The
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Manchester, MI
Quoted from Plumonium:What you mean exactly? Wait 1 day before doing the other side. And use towels to catch any dripping water?
I think what he's saying is that when you rest the cabinet down on the side that has already been decaled, put it on a soft towel so the decal doesn't get damaged.
I put the side art on my BOP 2.0 last week and the art I used had this feature where you simply push out the bubbles. I really didn't believe it until I tried it. It was amazing. Here is a demo of the material:
The cabinet came out awesome:
Quoted from Plumonium:What you mean exactly? Wait 1 day before doing the other side. And use towels to catch any dripping water?
The dripping application fluid I catch tapping some paper towels all around the area and small pieces of paper towels in openings.
The soft towels are to avoid scratching the decals. There is not that much fluid anyway.
I just decaled a guns n roses today, came out great
Chose the cleanest room in the house to do the job, cleaned cab, decal, and backing before every decal to avoid dust
2 people, one to pull decal from backing, one to hold backing, then both people to set decal
Did all 5 decals on flat surfaces (all surfaces of the cab were facing up when applying)
I used rapid tac on the cab and decal (had a third person spray decal liberally after removing decal from backing)
It allowed movement of positioning the decal for perfect placement
Left the entire decal whole, didn't trim until after it was laid and squeedged (this came in handy because of some mis positioning that allowed the bleed area to have enough room for error)
Trimmed edges to the edge of the cab, then took a straight edge to trim decal 1/8" into cab all the way around
Used a hobby knife to cut out holes
Used a single edged razor blade to trim edges
Used a felt squeegee to get out bubbles (use a new one so scratches don't appear)
Sitting to dry until the owner decides to start placing everything back on cab
Hope all this helps
Quoted from jsa:Dos the fluid really hurt anything? It's just soapy water, right?
Nope, wiped right up,
We had a 3rd person help in cleaning, spraying rapid tack, and wiping liquid drips, really helped out a lot compared to me usually doing it all by myself
Quoted from MustangPaul:Do you plan on adding any led's or led strips to the back of the pf?
Yes, though I will restore it to the original condition first. Do you have any recommendations, or before/after shots?
Quoted from jsa:Do you have any recommendations,
Just drill a good size hole back there so you can run wires and connectors. It won't hurt anything and you'll never see it but it could come in handy at some future time. That's what I'm gonna do to mine.
Quoted from jsa:Dos the fluid really hurt anything? It's just soapy water, right?
Windex has a bit more in it, like a bit of ammonia. The only place I can think of where you don't want (too much of) it is on the cabinet bottom. Not the end of the world, but it could soak in, discolor, raise the particle board grain.
We put on our first decal today, on the backbox. Everything was great until the trimming. We now understand the value of the beveled edge for trimming the decal. We ended up taking paint off with my blade, that was total amateur hour... Plus there are areas where we had a jagged decal edge (I've since trimmed smooth, but it's not perfect).
Still, with some paint touch up, I think this first side will look great. Photos when I'm less embarrassed.
Do you guys wait until the decal is dry before you do the final beveled edge trim? My concern with waiting is that the decal could stick to the bevel, and then we'd have a hell of a time getting it off!
You do the trimming as soon as you are done installing the decal. If you wait, you might pull some paint. I did not have beveled edges and had no problem whatsover. Use a LONG (i.e. 3 feet) straight edge and a fresh Xacto blade. Cut as close to the edge as you can. The decals are very thin. You don't need to press too hard.
I really like the more modern idea of trimming the decals 1/8" in from the edges and around the legs.
I dont know if its just easier from a manufacturers point of view but it also looks good in my opinion, if its done well.
Taking everyone's advice, we did the second side of the backbox this morning, and AMAZING what just a little practice does to help.
Here are some lines once completed:
IMG_3325 (resized).JPG
IMG_3326 (resized).JPG
IMG_3327 (resized).JPG
Here are my lessons learned.
- Cutting (with the backing still on) so only about a centimeter was left turned out to be super helpful, because during the application, it doesn't fold down under its own weight and stick to the edge or bevel beneath.
- After the decal is first applied, using Bryan Kelly's method of taking a utility knife with a brand new blade and doing an initial cut using the perpendicular edge as a guide works really well. This reduced the amount needed to trim to only four or five millimeters depending on the width of the bevel.
- We used an xacto knife with a brand new blade to do the final cut in one, continuous cut. The blade in this case was parallel to the bevel, if not even a bit more shallow, and cut the decal in a nice, straight line. Quality of the bevel has a huge impact on this.
- I can see the pros/cons either way of having a bevel. The challenge now is that the paint isn't a perfect match, so the bevels on the main cabinet are likely to be pretty visibly darker than the decals. This may be an acceptable effect or not, this remains to be seen. If not, we'll find some createx colors and do some matching touch up on the bevels.
Quoted from lb1:Nice one.
PS - Not sure if you are interested, but I just finished my LOTR and I am getting ready to put away the rotisserie. You are welcome to borrow it for as long as you need.
Thanks for the offer. I guess that since I already have a (crappy) rotisserie, and the way you tear it down/build it up in a swap is linear, I'm not sure I could take advantage of two at once, right?
Quoted from jsa:Thanks for the offer. I guess that since I already have a (crappy) rotisserie, and the way you tear it down/build it up in a swap is linear, I'm not sure I could take advantage of two at once, right?
You're good then. I wasn't sure if you had already built one - maybe you mentioned it in your thread. Some folks use two rotisseries side-by-side to swap, but it isn't a direct swap. Also, properly cleaning and polishing parts means there are some steps between when one part leaves the old playfield and lands on the new one. This said, one the wire harness is off, I could see how (if you don't do extensive part cleaning) you could move many parts directly from the old to the new playfield.
Quoted from lb1:Also, properly cleaning and polishing parts means there are some steps between when one part leaves the old playfield and lands on the new one.
This is what we're thinking... Removing the playfield in batches and doing a tumbling/cleaning as we go. Also, we're a little nervous because the playfield seems to be missing some parts, posts, etc. It's hard to figure out what the original was supposed to look like since this was Frankensteined over so many years. Any favorite photo locations we can compare against?
Quoted from jsa:Thanks for the offer. I guess that since I already have a (crappy) rotisserie, and the way you tear it down/build it up in a swap is linear, I'm not sure I could take advantage of two at once, right?
I've never understood having two rotisseries. The last parts off the old playfield are the first to go on the new one.
Think about it.
Quoted from jsa:This is what we're thinking... Removing the playfield in batches and doing a tumbling/cleaning as we go. Also, we're a little nervous because the playfield seems to be missing some parts, posts, etc. It's hard to figure out what the original was supposed to look like since this was Frankensteined over so many years. Any favorite photo locations we can compare against?
I always use HEP's gallery as a reference. Chris' pictures are top notch. Daylight, multiple angles and high resolution. See for instance http://christopherhutchins.com/gallery/album375.
If you can't find what you are looking for ask on the forum. There are probably a few threads on the same game and the OP probably also took tons of pictures.
Quoted from jsa:My son using his better eyesight to find water bubbles
I remember my dad commenting about "not enough bloody light in here" often in his later years , i know exactly what he means now 
GREAT job so far guys !!!
Yes, the truth is we tried using the bevel to guide the cut. Unfortunately, sometimes it worked and sometimes it did not. If the bevel wasn't perfect, it created a jagged cut. Therefore, for now on, we are cutting using a straight edge and an xacto knife, as close to the bevel as we can. I'll probably straighten the jagged cuts out with a straight edge. Then, once that's done, we can paint the edges with clean lines overlapping the white decal edge to clean it up.
I found that another problem with the bevel method is you tend to remove paint! We will repaint, but still, I think this takes a steadier hand than mine!
Not to be a nag, but be careful putting stuff (particularly metal) on the inner cabinet black sides. Black shows scratches like nothing else and it looks like you have a nice smooth finish. I'd put at least some paper towels to protect.
Quoted from lb1:Not to be a nag, but be careful putting stuff (particularly metal) on the inner cabinet black sides. Black shows scratches like nothing else and it looks like you have a nice smooth finish. I'd put at least some paper towels to protect.
You're not being a nag at all. It shows our fatigue. Great advice that we'll heed.
The inside sides were not as perfect as we would have liked, due to issues with my first attempts at using a HVLP gun and latex paint. I switched to rattle cans and improved it significantly, but cut our losses in a few places where paint prep wasn't ideal.
I see that Chris Hutchins puts soft velcro beneath the cabinet protectors that get screwed into the cabinet. I don't think Bryan Kelly does that. Both score the protector and Bryan removes the decal, best as I can tell.
Anyone have any thoughts on this velcro thing? I also have some craft felt. What's the point? To avoid pinching the cab?
Quoted from Skypilot:There is literately no movement in the protectors when applied. They are screwed in and do not move. I think that cutting around the artwork is a waste of time JMO.
You might want to be careful. I never really saw the need to cut the decal either, but always did, cause, what the hell. I then talked to Jim Mccune and Jim never cut them either, until he saw some wrinkling on a game he did. Not sure when the wrinkling happened but it happened. The only thing we could think happened was even though the protector appears to be going nowhere, once you apply the pressure from cranking on the leg bolts, the protector compresses against the cabinet and moves ever so slightly. Maybe the protector was bent at less than a 90 degree angle and straightened out when the leg was tightened and moved the decal. We're not really sure but evidently, it moved enough on Jim's to move the decal.
I don't quite see the need for the felt like Chris does, other than it adds a very small amount of material to keep the leg even farther from the cabinet. I don't use it. Never had an issue. But I guess it certainly doesn't hurt.
You're only doing this once. Cut the decal and be safe.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:You're only doing this once. Cut the decal and be safe.
Yeah, I figure that if some future person over-cranks the leg bolt, that's generally where you would see a pinching or wrinkling. I'll score it thoroughly and remove the decal from under the protector like Bryan does. I don't really see the point in the velcro or felt. In fact, I'd like that protector to be as flush against the cabinet as I can get it and never, ever come off.
We're painting the decal edges now. Once we're satisfied we'll take some photos and move on to the leg protectors.
A couple of photos of the newly painted edges:
If I were really anal, I'd use createx colors and match the purple myself more exactly. Strange how it changes depending on the light. However, I like the framing and clean edge it gives me (and takes away from the imperfections of my bevel). I should point out, on the first photo, the bevel is black to match the back, and the second it's purple to match the front.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:I then talked to Jim Mccune
Bryan here's your first issue. You talked to McCune. As you and I both know Jim probably has a couple of loose screws. LOL
Quoted from Plumonium:Why remove the decal left-over behind the leg protector once it's scored? Should this be enough to prevent wrinkling?
The logic of what you are saying makes sense, as the decal will simply sit behind the protector, and move independently of the rest of the decal. However, if you wanted to be absolutely, 100%, dead-certain that you've scored it properly, a simple way to know would be to remove it. 
Quoted from awarner:Since we're on this subject, how do you cut the decal? Do you use a sharp knife and go around the outside of the leg protector or do you want to cut inside it?
My plan is to use an Xacto knife around the outside.
I was wondering if I could sneak in and hijack your thread to ask a quick clarifying question...(I have enjoyed every moment of your restoration and appreciate all of your posts...I have learned so much!!!)
I just got a replacement BOP playfield...mmm...so pretty!!! I have been reading thread after thread to be prepared for swapping it in this winter, and have a question that was never directly answered.
I read somewhere that you need to predrill before screwing into the new playfield so that you don't risk damaging the playfield or cracking the clearcoat.
In determining the predrilling size for the bit, do I just go with one a bit under the shaft diameter of the screw, like I would with normal predrilling and go as deep as the screw is...or do I also need to come back and drill just barely through the clearcoat with a larger bit that will allow for the width of the shaft and threads? I don't know if the minor extra width of the screw threads is enough to crack the clear.
I'm just terrified to risk throwing away that much cash on a silly mistake.
Thanks in advance for any advice (and for letting me sneak in my question!!!)
Quoted from eskedran:I was wondering if I could sneak in and hijack your thread to ask a quick clarifying question...(I have enjoyed every moment of your restoration and appreciate all of your posts...I have learned so much!!!)
I just got a replacement BOP playfield...mmm...so pretty!!! I have been reading thread after thread to be prepared for swapping it in this winter, and have a question that was never directly answered.
I read somewhere that you need to predrill before screwing into the new playfield so that you don't risk damaging the playfield or cracking the clearcoat.
In determining the predrilling size for the bit, do I just go with one a bit under the shaft diameter of the screw, like I would with normal predrilling and go as deep as the screw is...or do I also need to come back and drill just barely through the clearcoat with a larger bit that will allow for the width of the shaft and threads? I don't know if the minor extra width of the screw threads is enough to crack the clear.
I'm just terrified to risk throwing away that much cash on a silly mistake.
Thanks in advance for any advice (and for letting me sneak in my question!!!)
I just went through this for the first time on a cleared LOTR playfield that was immaculate. What I can say is:
- It is actually VERY easy
- Do this before you put anything else on the playfield so you can properly clean up afterward
- You only need this for posts, not screws (I think)
- Use a sharp new bit from a set that has small increments so you can find the size that gives you the exact tight fit
- I'd think the right starting size is based on the size of the hole, not one size under the size of the shaft. Change as needed if it does not work.
- Find a way to protect the playfield around the area you drill. My hand coordination isn't the best and it's happened before to drop something.
- Start by running the bit counterclockwise and just enough to remove the extra clear that's at the top and prevent the post from going in. Doing the very top part should be enough.
- Even if there is a very slight lifting (and there shouldn't be if the clear was properly applied), you can ad a small washer to cover the problem.
Quoted from lb1:- Start by running the bit counterclockwise and just enough to remove the extra clear that's at the top and prevent the post from going in. Doing the very top part should be enough.
problem.
I have to ask a follow up question: I assume this is being done from the top, not the bottom?
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