Marietta, GA
Quoted from Boslaw:See these pics. You're missing some parts
Pretty sure those are add-on protectors from Cliffy's.
(Topic ID: 132740)
Linked Games
Machine: Bride of Pinbot, The
Williams, 1991
Topic Gallery
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider wesleyb.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
3 months later
Figured I would ask this here since I got zero response on its own topic.
I have had a few lingering sound issues on my BoP and one of them is still sticking around after the recap. I had an issue where the sound (music and speech) would start out very soft then gradually get louder (Volume at 8 bars but the sound would start out sounding at 2). I figured this was just old/tired caps and I took the board out and replaced all of the electrolytic caps. This did solve that problem and I tested the pulled caps and 75% were at 1/2 their rated capacity with the other 25% being around 1/4. Now, instead of the volume going up to normal as the machine warms up (the machine starts at normal volume), I get distortion about 30 -60 seconds after powering up and starting a game. I have looked around on the forums and on pinwiki and cannot find a really good answer for this specific issue. The highs and the speech sound fine but the low end just gets really distorted. No popping or screeching noises and I cannot find any glaring issues on the board itself like cracked joints. I replaced all of the caps with the exception of the TANT caps. Just looking for somewhere to begin this wonderful journey.
Quoted from Mancave:Perhaps something to do with the main chips on the sound board??
Not really sure as i've not struck this issue on my machine over the years i've owned it but if you've covered the caps and the data cables are all good i can't think of anything specific apart from the chips.
I swapped the socketed yamaha chips for known good ones and the problem was still there.
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:I know you mentioned you tested the caps you removed (I always do that too) but did you test the new ones going in? Odds are something is wrong with the items you worked on. Could be a bad cap or a bad solder joint. I would check everything over again and maybe reflow the solder if the caps check out. Are you using lead solder? You should be. It has a lower melting point and it flows better.
Definitely using lead solder as well as paste flux to make sure it "soaks in" the via hole. I checked to make sure no bad joints and it tested ok. I had some higher voltage 47uf radials on hand so I swapped those out and guess what...it worked. My guess is that the 47uf caps I got from marco were borderline crap since they were a name I had never heard of and one was junk out of the box. I normally stick with Nichicon but these were something like TSPP. If I had to guess, they tested good in my cap tester but when put on a load, they take a dump.
I left the machine on with a ball in the shooter lane so the new caps can get settled in so I will update when I go back downstairs. Normally the clipping would start in the first 60 seconds of play.
Quoted from HydrogenHuman:Has anyone encountered a problem with the one way gate at the skill shot lane getting stuck in the up position? That's been happening to my BoP even when I replaced it with a brand new one.
Is it just a matter of adjusting/bending the wire until it can move freely without sticking, or should I put a small drop of lubricating oil on the pivot points so it won't stick as easily?
What did you replace?
Quoted from Robotworkshop:This is exactly why I test all the caps I pull out and new ones before they go in. Haven’t had any issues with new caps fir sound boards but have come across questionable ones in monitor cap kits where the specs were off on a couple but the original were spot on with better specs so those went back in. Tested with a Sencore LC103 which tests at rated voltage, tests value, tests ESR, and Dielectric Absorption. It has helped to uncover failing caps where the value is still ok but under load act up. One it helped identify was where some tantalum caps in an analog circuit. Capacitance value was ok but when active we’re starting to act shorted. Wasn’t obvious since it wasn’t across the power rails which would have smoked them.
The LC103 is $1200 used...All of the new caps tested within range on my 50$ tester. I wish I could justify the cost of getting one of those since I love cool equipment but I am not on that level. I just buy good caps when I can and this example is exactly why I do that.
Also, the fix is verified 100% working. I left the machine on for hours yesterday and played around 20 games and it sounds great!
Quoted from Robotworkshop:It's not for everyone but I have used it enough for all sorts of repairs over the years where it was totally worth the investment. You usually don't need that level of gear unless you do a ton of repairs. As long as you buy quality parts from reputable distributors then you can usually trust the replacements. I typically get caps from Digikey and Mouser which may cost a bit more but I usually don't have to worry about them too much.
I normally order from Digikey as well BUT it was convenient to get them from marco since I could cross reference the part number to the cap. Most of the caps from marco were brand name except for these axials. Once I put the Nichicon replacements in there, it worked as expected. Fun times!
Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider wesleyb.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Reply
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!
Donate to PinsideGreat to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
