BOP Club...non 2.0

Joining the club today, it’s been over twelve months in the making and almost there.

I’ve touched up/clear coated a few Gottlieb playfields, but after testing removal of the Mylar it didn’t look very promising.

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I think this playfield was from Peters second run. WOW, a thing of beauty!

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A slight hiccup with the PPS decal order, but was quickly shipped a right side replacement. Let’s hope if I ever scratch the sides, it’s going to be the left for my spare

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My original bride lost all her red and yellow, hence the need for new decals.

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The floor had to go, was warped, swollen and had that stink of damp wood smell.

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I applied the head decal’s first using the wet method which was pain catching water, so bit the bullet and applied the cabinet ones dry. Super easy and the dry method is the way to go from now on.

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My light panel was also swollen in places so made a new one. As you would know, BoP has lots of lamp holes!

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Playfield reassembly and testing at home as it motivated me to hurry up and get my living room space back! Coin door has since been painted.

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I’ve never used mirror blades before and think that I will install them on all machines from now on.

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I have emailed Larry at Starship Fantasy a couple of times if the reproduction helmet is ever going to be made again, but looks like it’s never going to happen Someone in the past applied glow in the dark paint which glows green for hours after she’s off. Something different and has freaked me out a couple of times wondering around in the dark.

I have a Pinduino kit installed (which looks super cool on YouTube videos), but just can’t get it to work. Currently diagnosing the issue, hence the cables hanging out in the top right.
My 5V line is currently at 4.8V (no resets), with sporadic power up U6 checksum errors, so studying pinwiki about the 5V issues before asking lyonsden for assistance.

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Another German container pin BoP bought back from the dead and really enjoying playing her with the new playfield. The sounds and call outs on this game are fantastic.

Don’t think the neighbours in my unit block are happy with my pinball though

Hope that 3D translite becomes available to purchase one day.

All good now Eric, turned out that I just needed to re punch the ground wire on the J118 connector.

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Would highly recommend any Pinduino kit, it really lights up the face on BoP

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When I first got my BoP, I was also having really weird head issues.

I had cold solder joints on the A-13892-2 regulator board and also on this A-14423-1 relay board:

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As others have mentioned, the head position roller switch can be a bit finicky!

Adjusting this switch can drive you nuts. Sometimes works great for a while and then back to random head issues.
Before you adjust this switch, grab the head face assembly and see if there excessive forward/backward motion on the head mounting pivot brackets. The head assembly is mounted to the playfield with six screws (I used bolts/washers) and if you loosen the lower two (black arrows), you can remove this excess movement first and then correctly adjust the roller switch.

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Someone else posted that the manual incorrectly states a 17/64 x ½” washer should be under the white wheel drive. This original washer can cause the wheel to ride slightly lopsided as it rotates and not only causes binding (with a random ‘clunk’ noise), it can also mess up your previously adjusted head position adjustments.
A smaller diameter washer with the same thickness fixes that issue.

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These three things helped me get my head unit to now work perfectly.

Good luck, hope it helps!
Paul.

I can’t advise much on board repairs as I’m new to WPC.
Can you replicate this issue by spraying the area with an upside down can of compressed air/hair dryer?

I’m guessing you have already tried reseating the ribbon cable between CPU and driver board both sides? That seems to fix a lot of problems.

I’ve also read that pushing down (with board out on a flat surface) or reseating the ASIC chip (U9) can resolve a few communication issues before it maybe gets to U18

I was also having intermittent controlled lamp issues (not exact same as yours) and found that pretty much all of the lamp boards had cold solder joints. Might be worth a check.

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This looks like a nice test board, if you wanted to start at the CPU end first:

http://www.siegecraft.us/presta/index.php?id_product=11&controller=product&id_lang=1#/26-wiring_pack_style-wpc

The Pinduino helmet light kit looks great Eric. I think I may order one soon

You’ve convinced me to order some EZSBC 5V and 12V switch mode regulators, as my current 5V sits around the 4.75V mark (without resets) but I don’t like the fact that I could cook an egg on the original Q1 LM323K regulator. Whilst I have the driver board out, might as well replace the Q2 12V regulator also (cheap) and haven’t replaced the C2 capacitor yet!

May I ask you two questions about installing these modern replacements?

1: With the new Q1 5V regulator, do you bother installing it with the original heat sink? As the product description states a heat sink is optional.

2: With the new Q2 12V regulator, the description states no heat sink required and also no external capacitors required! Do you remove C2 & C3 capacitors when installing this replacement?

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Just asking for my own piece of mind and also for anyone else thinking about upgrading too these new switch mode regulators, especially the 12V one.

Appreciate your input.
Paul.

Thanks Eric, I'll give it a try

Our Australian CPR Distributor just posted this about new stock coming soon.

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Not to much longer now, the glow in the dark green helmet is the last piece in the puzzle

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