(Topic ID: 132740)

BOP Club...non 2.0


By MustangPaul

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 2,116 posts
  • 191 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 hours ago by ClarkGriswold
  • Topic is favorited by 87 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 851 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

BOP3 (resized).JPG
BOP (resized).JPG
20191212_155445 (resized).jpg
20191212_155419 (resized).jpg
20191212_155411 (resized).jpg
20191212_155408 (resized).jpg
20191212_155414 (resized).jpg
34E95A0E-52AE-4F03-A9F4-912353F00B18 (resized).jpeg
670C4587-02AB-4177-A0E8-D54539EB6512 (resized).jpeg
091FA6B7-37BB-43BA-A27F-3ABDA3A4E931 (resized).jpeg
Screenshot_20201223-232509 (resized).jpg
2020-12-22 12.52.22 (resized).jpg
IMG_20201221_222817 (resized).jpg
IMG_20201221_222820 (resized).jpg
IMG_20201220_123411_998 (resized).jpg
IMG_20201219_181215_983 (resized).jpg

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider ozpaul.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#1484 3 years ago

Joining the club today, it’s been over twelve months in the making and almost there.

I’ve touched up/clear coated a few Gottlieb playfields, but after testing removal of the Mylar it didn’t look very promising.

B1 (resized).jpg

I think this playfield was from Peters second run. WOW, a thing of beauty!

b2 (resized).jpg

A slight hiccup with the PPS decal order, but was quickly shipped a right side replacement. Let’s hope if I ever scratch the sides, it’s going to be the left for my spare

b3 (resized).jpg

My original bride lost all her red and yellow, hence the need for new decals.

b4 (resized).jpg

The floor had to go, was warped, swollen and had that stink of damp wood smell.

b5.1 (resized).jpg

b5 (resized).jpg

bop5.2 (resized).jpg

I applied the head decal’s first using the wet method which was pain catching water, so bit the bullet and applied the cabinet ones dry. Super easy and the dry method is the way to go from now on.

b6 (resized).jpg

My light panel was also swollen in places so made a new one. As you would know, BoP has lots of lamp holes!

bop6.1 (resized).jpg

Playfield reassembly and testing at home as it motivated me to hurry up and get my living room space back! Coin door has since been painted.

b7 (resized).jpg

I’ve never used mirror blades before and think that I will install them on all machines from now on.

b8 (resized).jpg

I have emailed Larry at Starship Fantasy a couple of times if the reproduction helmet is ever going to be made again, but looks like it’s never going to happen Someone in the past applied glow in the dark paint which glows green for hours after she’s off. Something different and has freaked me out a couple of times wondering around in the dark.

I have a Pinduino kit installed (which looks super cool on YouTube videos), but just can’t get it to work. Currently diagnosing the issue, hence the cables hanging out in the top right.
My 5V line is currently at 4.8V (no resets), with sporadic power up U6 checksum errors, so studying pinwiki about the 5V issues before asking lyonsden for assistance.

IMG_3441 (resized).jpg

Another German container pin BoP bought back from the dead and really enjoying playing her with the new playfield. The sounds and call outs on this game are fantastic.

Don’t think the neighbours in my unit block are happy with my pinball though

Hope that 3D translite becomes available to purchase one day.

#1489 3 years ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

Feel free to ping me and I'm happy to walk through some diagnostics (or send you another pinduino to let you test if that is the problem). The 12V power the arduino and the 5V powers the LEDs. Do you see a light on the Arduino when it is connected? Also, if possible, check the power at the pinduino. There is an extra power port that you can probe to make sure it is getting 12V and 5V. If it is not getting power, check the power harness (which I can send you a replacement as well.) Hope to help get you up and running with the pinduino as quickly as possible. Feel free to PM me and I'll send you replacement parts to help you get things sorted out.

All good now Eric, turned out that I just needed to re punch the ground wire on the J118 connector.

IMG_3473 (resized).jpg

Would highly recommend any Pinduino kit, it really lights up the face on BoP

IMG_3478 (resized).jpg

3 weeks later
#1498 3 years ago

When I first got my BoP, I was also having really weird head issues.

I had cold solder joints on the A-13892-2 regulator board and also on this A-14423-1 relay board:

Relay Board (resized).jpg

As others have mentioned, the head position roller switch can be a bit finicky!

Adjusting this switch can drive you nuts. Sometimes works great for a while and then back to random head issues.
Before you adjust this switch, grab the head face assembly and see if there excessive forward/backward motion on the head mounting pivot brackets. The head assembly is mounted to the playfield with six screws (I used bolts/washers) and if you loosen the lower two (black arrows), you can remove this excess movement first and then correctly adjust the roller switch.

Head (resized).jpg

Someone else posted that the manual incorrectly states a 17/64 x ½” washer should be under the white wheel drive. This original washer can cause the wheel to ride slightly lopsided as it rotates and not only causes binding (with a random ‘clunk’ noise), it can also mess up your previously adjusted head position adjustments.
A smaller diameter washer with the same thickness fixes that issue.

Washer (resized).jpg

These three things helped me get my head unit to now work perfectly.

Good luck, hope it helps!
Paul.

#1502 3 years ago
Quoted from mjalexan:

Cross posting here in case anyone else has come across the same issue. Thanks!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bop-playfield-lamps-take-a-few-minutes-to-come-on

I can’t advise much on board repairs as I’m new to WPC.
Can you replicate this issue by spraying the area with an upside down can of compressed air/hair dryer?

I’m guessing you have already tried reseating the ribbon cable between CPU and driver board both sides? That seems to fix a lot of problems.

I’ve also read that pushing down (with board out on a flat surface) or reseating the ASIC chip (U9) can resolve a few communication issues before it maybe gets to U18

I was also having intermittent controlled lamp issues (not exact same as yours) and found that pretty much all of the lamp boards had cold solder joints. Might be worth a check.

Bop11 (resized).jpg
Bop11.1 (resized).jpg

This looks like a nice test board, if you wanted to start at the CPU end first:

http://www.siegecraft.us/presta/index.php?id_product=11&controller=product&id_lang=1#/26-wiring_pack_style-wpc

#1511 3 years ago

The Pinduino helmet light kit looks great Eric. I think I may order one soon

You’ve convinced me to order some EZSBC 5V and 12V switch mode regulators, as my current 5V sits around the 4.75V mark (without resets) but I don’t like the fact that I could cook an egg on the original Q1 LM323K regulator. Whilst I have the driver board out, might as well replace the Q2 12V regulator also (cheap) and haven’t replaced the C2 capacitor yet!

May I ask you two questions about installing these modern replacements?

1: With the new Q1 5V regulator, do you bother installing it with the original heat sink? As the product description states a heat sink is optional.

2: With the new Q2 12V regulator, the description states no heat sink required and also no external capacitors required! Do you remove C2 & C3 capacitors when installing this replacement?

Cap removal (resized).jpg

Just asking for my own piece of mind and also for anyone else thinking about upgrading too these new switch mode regulators, especially the 12V one.

Appreciate your input.
Paul.

#1513 3 years ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

Hi Paul,
Glad you like the Pinduino helmet! Such a great improvement.
When I replace the 5V and 12V regulator, I've now remove the 5V heatsink, leave the 12V heatsink in place but don't both attaching it to the 12V voltage regulator, replace C2 (I have a pile of these), and don't both replacing C3.
I hadn't read about removing C2 and C3, but leaving them in can't hurt (unless they leak).
Best,
-eric

Thanks Eric, I'll give it a try

6 months later
#1579 2 years ago

Our Australian CPR Distributor just posted this about new stock coming soon.

Helmet (resized).jpg

Not to much longer now, the glow in the dark green helmet is the last piece in the puzzle

IMG_3478 (resized).jpg

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 350.00
Boards
Pinball Basement
$ 79.00
Lighting - Under Cabinet
Arcade Upkeep
$ 40.00
Playfield - Decals
Metal-Mods
From: $ 1.25
Playfield - Other
Rocket City Pinball
From: $ 1.25
Playfield - Other
Rocket City Pinball

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider ozpaul.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside