(Topic ID: 132740)

BOP Club...non 2.0

By MustangPaul

4 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 1,822 posts
  • 164 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by Morinack
  • Topic is favorited by 73 Pinsiders


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#1220 3 years ago

Joined the club Friday with a nice condition BOP. It needs the mylar removed b/c it's bubbled on the inserts, but that terrifies me, don't want to damage the paint on the PF. I am on the waitlist for a repro PF, so I might go at it with the freeze it and pull method. I'll be 2.0'ing it, but intend to save the CPU board incase someone else ever wants to convert it back for some reason. Right now just having fun playing it, it's a lot of fun!

2 weeks later
#1243 3 years ago

I'm missing a ball trap protector that attaches to the A-14449 assembly on my BOP circled in red in the below picture. I can't find it in the Williams Red book. Anyone know the part number? Can anyone provide the measurements I can use to fabricate one? Thanks!

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#1245 3 years ago

Well it's nicer looking than the deck screw some moron put in its place on mine.

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#1249 3 years ago
Quoted from jsa:

My BoP had three deck screws on the playfield when I got it. I guess this is a common practice, huh?

Too common. Deck screws are an operators favorite repair, cheap and quick, just ugly as hell. hah

Quoted from Fourbyracer:

The piece I have there is 5/8" wide and 2 3/4" long. The bend looks to be about 75 degrees. The small bent flange is 1/2" long. Here are some pics to show the mounting hole etc.

That's awesome info! Thanks much. Any guess as to how thick it is?

#1251 3 years ago
Quoted from tfduda:

This is an odd piece especially given that I couldn't recall whether or not my machine has one. Indeed, my BOP doesn't have it either and I can't remember having to need it (although the foto above suggests someone thought it was necessary to add a screw in this location). Given the responses here and my impressions after browsing fotos online, it seems that some machines have it and others don't. Wonder if it was something included on early machines during initial production run and then left off later ones (or vice versa)...?

If I had to guess, it was added to later production games as a "bug fix" to airballs getting stuck in that area. I guess we could probably make a better educated guess on it if we compared dates of games with it and without. The fact that I didn't find it detailed in the Red book tends to support this hypothesis that it was added mid production run.

5 months later
#1326 2 years ago
Quoted from TimO:

As long as I've owned this machine, it's had an unsightly mylar edge near the shuttle ramp (when I first got it, I thought it was a crack in the PF. The mylar has pealed back just enough for some dirt to get under there. It's been an entirely cosmetic issue until yesterday when I noticed it was starting to guide the ball. From what I've read, removing mylar usually causes more problems than it solves and I'm not interested in a full restoration or replacing the whole PF. What's the easiest way to stop this from effecting ball play and maybe make it look nicer? Should I just try to trim the offending edge away with a knife? And if I do, what is the chance I'll lose some paint and graphics?

Maybe try some Magic Eraser cut into cubes with some alcohol? The combo cleans quite well and if you're delicate you might not damage anything?

#1341 2 years ago

Beautiful BOP 2.0 you have there tatman9999 !! You even chromed the coindoor!

#1350 2 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

That's not his way, he's always looking for a new project, when he finds one he doesn't stop till it's perfect. I should sell mine and buy his.

That's exactly what I was thinking, mine needs work too. haha

2 weeks later
#1365 2 years ago

Little PRO TIP for you BoP owners out there. Williams Bride of Pinbot manual is wrong (shocking!) for the fuses for GI #3 Yellow / White-Yellow and GI #5 Green / White-Green. Pinwiki has it correct. GI #3 is F108, NOT F107 as listed in the manual. F107 is GI #5.

Don't do what I did and trust the manual and spend an hour or two cussing. From now on I'll just curse once and test all the fuses I can find.

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1 week later
#1368 2 years ago

Wild guess here, but based on that date being much newer than the pin itself, it's a reproduction playfield from Peter.


7 months later
#1556 1 year ago

Gently pry that metal switch arm off the plastic switch body and swap it onto a new switch body. Be careful, the "pins" on either side of the switch are plastic nubs, so don't break them...

3 months later
#1585 1 year ago
Quoted from Yesh23:

Does anyone know where you can purchase the plastic guards on the face cube? I have an old set but the guards are semi yellow on 3 of the faces and very yellow on the main face. I was hoping to swap them out but can't find the replacements.

If you can't source replacements, you might be able to whiten them: http://www.retr0bright.com/

7 months later
#1637 11 months ago
Quoted from Apollon:

@Jaksu I know this is a non BOP 2.0 club, but I have both an original and a 2.0. This question is about a 2.0 issue.... So the sound of my original BOP is fantastic. When you select the original Williams version game on the 2.0 platform, the sound is crappy and staticky. I have read that it has to do with a BIT conversion? After reading some recent posts here regarding redoing the sound, I am curious if anyone can redo the sound of the original game in the 2.0 platform ? The Dutch pinball sound is great but it’s a real disappointment when you switch over to the old game.

snux can fix it, but needs Dutch Pinball's blessing and assistance to release it...so given their situation...it will likely never see the light of day. I agree it sucks that it sounds pretty bad.

3 months later
#1694 8 months ago
Quoted from HarrieD:

Anyway, I made a mistake when bondo-ing the front, can anyone find my mistake?

Closed the coin door hole instead of the lock bar one. Ooops. Nothing a drill bit won't fix.

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