Machine: Bride of Pinbot, The
Williams, 1991You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider marco1973.
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Hi.
I bought my BOP more than one year ago.
Now I'm starting to restoring it.
The first thing I noticed is the playfield is without the lifting mechanism like other williams pinballs with DMD.
Are all the pins that way ?
If yes, did someone installed the mechanism ?
Thx
I love this forum because it it really reactive 
Mad_Dog_Coin_Op Thank you for your really clear picture.
AlexRogan84 Thank you for your explanation. Now I know something more.
DumbAss Thank you too for your suggestion. I know manuals are plenty of information, but you need to know how to read them too
Before your posts (of all 3) I didn't knew lot about it, now something more.
Anyway the first picture shows the previous condition of the flipper coils before restoration.
In fact I do not had a good/correct start point: wrong coil without capacitor.
To now: i turned the coils (they were installed in a wrong way if compared with your pictures - I don't know if that has some different effects).
I swapped the cables how you suggested me.
Left flipper is still dead. I hope I did not burn something with the inverted cables.
DSC_0276 (resized).JPGIMG_20220731_114425 (resized).jpgIMG_20220731_114432 (resized).jpgQuoted from DumbAss:Now turn the solenoids around again. The lug end should be away from the stop. The stop is where the vibration is and increased vibration increases the risk the wires can be vibrated off the solenoid lugs. When you turn the solenoid around do it with the wires attached so you don't make the same mistake. If you're confident you can wire it correctly with the correct polarity (connections) then you can remove the wires as this will make turning it around a little easier (from a mechanical perspective).
EDIT: You should also remove the compression (conical) return spring as you already have the extension return spring installed. You don't need both and the extension spring is the better method.
You should read https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers for incredibly useful information on this topic.
DumbAss Are you something like a pinball engineer ?
You really have good eyes, I'm lucky
Thank you for the second time. I will reverse them again and I will remove the conic spring.
Quoted from DumbAss:Now turn the solenoids around again. The lug end should be away from the stop. The stop is where the vibration is and increased vibration increases the risk the wires can be vibrated off the solenoid lugs. When you turn the solenoid around do it with the wires attached so you don't make the same mistake. If you're confident you can wire it correctly with the correct polarity (connections) then you can remove the wires as this will make turning it around a little easier (from a mechanical perspective).
EDIT: You should also remove the compression (conical) return spring as you already have the extension return spring installed. You don't need both and the extension spring is the better method.
You should read https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers for incredibly useful information on this topic.
That means AlexRogan84 Needs to turn his coils too ?
Hello everybody.
Just finished to restoring It.
I've a problem on my PIN.
Ball remains stuck on the center lock.
Due test, coil and lock switches are both ok.
Here a video.
Any suggestion in how to solve the problem ?
Thanks in advice.
Quoted from Marco1973:Hello everybody.
Just finished to restoring It.
I've a problem on my PIN.
Ball remains stuck on the center lock.
Due test, coil and lock switches are both ok.
Here a video.
Any suggestion in how to solve the problem ?
Thanks in advice.
It was the switch at the enter of the head. It was not fine regulated and the passage of the ball was not feeled.
Quoted from mrSATURN2012:Anyone know where to start if a ball won’t eject? It will go into ball search after a bit, but I don’t visually see anything under the playfield that would prevent the ball from being ejected.
Hi. We all need you explain us better where the ball remains stuck.
You need to test if the three switches under the playfield are working properly.
Enter the test and try it out. Better with the ball over. It can be that if you test them with the fingers they work but with the ball not, because the ball pushes the rod a little less.
Quoted from Marco1973:Hi. After some games fuse 101 burned. Replaced it, burned fuse 102. Replaced. Both burned again.
Here are some pictures of the coils (new) and their wiring.
What do I need to do to play without problems ?
Thx for the help.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I searched infos about the problem and found something that could be interesting.
The manual speaks about the flipper fuses: both 2,5A SB. This are the fuses I installed.
A tech cart found on the web speaks about two 3A SB fuses.
The difference is not so high but before testing the 3A fuses, I would like to know which one do you use in your pin.
Quoted from Marco1973:Hi. After some games fuse 101 burned. Replaced it, burned fuse 102. Replaced. Both burned again.
Here are some pictures of the coils (new) and their wiring.
What do I need to do to play without problems ?
Thx for the help.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Problem solved.
I found on pinside a post talking about measuring diodes with a tester , after disconnecting one head. The left flipper coil had a burned diode. I changed it.
The right flipper coil had an unregulated end, so the blades wer not separated at the race end of the coil. I adjusted it.
Both are functioning without blowing the fuses.
Quoted from BrewersArcade:Getting ready to install new ramps from Starship Fantasy. This is my first time swapping out ramps so I have a couple questions. Are there quick disconnects on the underside of the playfield to disconnect the switches on the left ramp and esp. all the switches on the right ramp? If not is it best to just desolder the connections, label them, and just reattach all the hardware and wiring once I get the ramp installed? I'm a tad intimidated and don't want to make it more difficult than I need to.
A picture is better than 100 words, expecially when you want to dismount and after rebuild pinball parts . If you have any doubt take a picture of the part, you will need it later (better if you make it from difefrent angles). That means, you can dismount parts how you prefere; if you take a picture you will be able to build the parts again without doubt. Naturally the fastest way is to use quick connectors, in your case. And if you are not sure you can post a picture here, or ask for a picture of a specific part or area.
Quoted from BiOLaTeRaLuS:Having an issue with some dead switches. Skill shot 200k, right loop top, Head right eye and mini exit left. Looking at the switch matrix, Plumb bob tilt and upper left jet bumper should be dead too, but they work. Common wire among them is white and yellow. Tried re-seating the connector and still dead, tried actuating all of these switches just to see if one was stuck, nothing. It was working up till a couple of days ago. In the process of checking continuity along the wire. TIA
Hi. Could you please write the nr of switches that are you giving problems according the manual ?
Quoted from BiOLaTeRaLuS:34=200k skill shot, 44=right loop top, 64=head right eye and 74=mini exit left. according to page 2-41 of the manual
I think too like snakesnsparklers there is something with the cables.
How you can see the switches have the same line "4". Maybe you have problem with the SW 54 too.
I would search if there is some broken cable between SW 24 and 34.
BOP-MATRIX (resized).jpgQuoted from KenM:After putting my BOP back together that worked fine previously, the skill shot coil started smoking on the first launch. No fuse blew. The coil works fine in test with no smoke. I tried it a couple times after checking connections and it keeps smoking. The 24-900 coil measured 5.7 ohms.
I'm not sure how the gameplay with switch works different than test other than that first skill shot switch is bypassed.
Any idea's where to start looking? Transistor and diode on the board?
Hi @KenM.
Left and right flippers has the same coil. So if you want you can try changing them testing in this way if the coil itself could be the problem.
In test mode flippers are receiving electricity only if you test them; during play electricity Is always ready, and goes trough when you push the flipper buttons.
I had a simular problem years ago and the problem was a shortcut. I would look if the diodes are ok too.
Quoted from KenM:Its not the flipper coil. Its coil #5 that sends the ball in to the pops after the skill shot. I can check the orientation but i never touched that in the partial teardown.
Sorry, my mistake. In little time I will be in front of the PIN, then I will think what It could be.
Quoted from Marco1973:Sorry, my mistake. In little time I will be in front of the PIN, then I will think what It could be.
Coil n. 5 is AE-24900 without diodes.
If you can't move the bracket without problems with your hands, I think you need to replace It. Or it will be what I will do First.
16776786159397545412405142512230 (resized).jpg
Quoted from KenM:Thanks, Marco. My coil is wired opposite, weird.
Embarrassingly enough, I think BriPin was right. It's possible that the coil was touching the prop bar after it would jump a little bit after firing. I don't understand why that didn't blow a fuse. I must have had the prop bar in the correct spot when i had it firing in test mode.
Nothing is embarassing here, automatic corrector of my phone apart, that doesn't identifyes the language and makes grammar mistakes 
Important is you solved the problem.
Quoted from Boslaw:Thanks, I’ll check all of those things. Does the remote holder require a diode? The holder that came with this game was a simple 3 AA battery holder with 2 leads but I’ve seen some other AA holders in pins with a diode.
Why don't you install nvram, removing battery ?
Here a topic on pinside about It.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/anyone-put-nvram-in-rottendog-wpc-mpu
Quoted from Boslaw:little worried about soldering/desoldering. My board soldering skills are not good.
With the right tools it is a really simple operation. Desoldering pump and soldering tool. There are on Pinside lot of threads about it, I ordered exactly from the USA the tools I'm using. For you will it be easier and cheaper in comparison of what I did.
Quoted from mbott1701:Having an issue with my BoP and wonder if anyone has experienced this or has a suggestion.
When the game starts the 1 Mil jackpot insert lamp on the back box just blinks.
The jackpot value won't advance no matter how many ramps, loops, spinner rotations are hit. The 1 mil insert just continues to flash rapidly.
When I do the single lamp test the lights on the leg all work as expected. I tested all switches and they are registering. There are no stuck switches either. I tried swapping game rom to a different verso, too. The game plays and works fine otherwise.
I would look if a switch remained blocked. But the suggestion of AlexRogan84 could help too.
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Bolzano
Westminster, MA