BOP Club...non 2.0

Hey MP
Technically speaking i've been in the club for close to 6 years as BOP was the first pin i ever bought. It will also be the first pin that i will do a complete restore on ( i'm just waiting on my play field to turn up ). I can't believe i missed this club thread as i usually "home in" on anything BOP related (although i did disregard the BOP 2.0 thread after a brief visit). I wont bother adding pics of my machine as it's in average condition mostly (cab decals on one side are cactus although the other side is smicko=Awesome in Oz slang), head decals are faded and a different colour, play field has patches where the previous owner tried his hand at colour matching and FAILED miserably, BUT new ramps, new head plastic and a host of add on's. I'm champing at the bit to get stuck into the restore of this pin i must say. I've got a question for the BOP club faithful though >>> My machine has ALWAYS never had the ability to change lane with the right flipper button (for the special lit lane change) which also includes putting your name in for high scores, it's constantly had the right flipper switch (no 11) from memory come up as a switch error BUT the flipper works fine. The right flipper switch is exactly the same as the left so i've got no idea why this is and because the machine works fine i've just not worried about it. It's intrigued me though So is something not right or is this normal??

Has this issue been for both flippers?, mine has NEVER worked (for lane change, etc ) for the right flipper and also has always shown a right flipper switch error as well. What you describe could be the problem with mine although because the flipper still works i've not been too fussed with it.

Hey MP, this is where i got my set from about 18 months ago, think the price is still the same.
http://www.pinballdecals.com/PartsByGamePages/TMBOP_Page.html
I haven't even seen the black set?? although i'd stick with the purple myself, MMMMMLOVE Purple

Thanks, definitely different, there is a nice contrast between the bride and the black background but i think i still prefer the purple. I've certainly not spotted the black ones for sale in my internet travels so far.

This mob have got the 2 main ramps in a set, i've not dealt with them before though so have no idea what they are like, price is a tad steep for the 2 ramps though.
http://www.starship-fantasy.com/ramps/The-Machine-Bride-of-Pinbot-Ramp-Set.
They do normally have the whole set but are currently out of the helmet

Your answer was at post number 132 from Morydees

Do you mean this one MP?
http://www.pinball.center/en/

The ones with yellow inserts are prototype playfields.

Have you seen my high score MP? and with a pic

Good reminder mate, got mine when they first became available, still waiting on the big one!!

Received this in the mail yesterday, the wait is OVER and OMFG was it worth the wait !!
Peter has done a fantastic job on these playfields, awesome clearcoat and NO imperfections. To be honest i'm not a very picky person but i've scanned this with my eyeballs that much my brain really did start to hurt (errmm could have been the few extra celebratory bourbons too )
For those still waiting for their BOP's you will NOT be disappointed believe me, you may be that in love with it you might even consider some unnatural acts with it, LOL.
GREAT JOB PETER!! your legend grows and i'd buy any other playfield off you even if i didn't have the machine.

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I've been thinking the same, i may just get it all done professionally cause i just DON'T want to F@#$$K up that gorgeous playfield.

You still having trouble getting that up and running MP? Roadtrip? Surely there must be someone over there that can get it sorted for you, did you ask the pinside user Pacman from the arcade thread, his work is awesome!
He may know of someone that can help as well, it may be a just a matter of sending off the boards, etc for repair work, might not need to send the whole machine.

The adventure begins

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LOL, yeah i know, ordered the wrong size super band one's a while back, it still worked fine with no ball hangups but after the restore it shall be changed

Uuuuummmmm does anyone know how these wee things go back together ??

Seriously though, if i can draw peeps attention to the last 2 pics and here's some questions.
A) The wood portions that the cabs sit back on when in storage/transportation mode have completely gone to cheese, no idea why they seem to have water damage (board is flaking apart) cause the rest of the cab is super dooper tight all over, not even any popped seems. The question is has anyone replaced these before? and just how did they do it? or Suggestions??

B) Does anyone else's cab have the pink stickers attached (B19) surely that's not factory applied and if so i doubt it means the cab number?
Discussion and input needed please

Lastly, what's the best way to remove the side rails cause those suckers are stuck on bloody GOOD?

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And a bonus Farrah Fawcet poster too me thinks

I've got to get the heat gun out to attack the old decals so will give that a crack on the side rails, sounds like the best option. Cheers
As for the B19, maybe a shipping container number but you would expect that on the outside of the cab not where it's positioned, got me stumped, i was hoping someone in the club may have the same thing on their machines. Also got some nice solid pieces of wood lying around so will make up a set of back rails for it. It does make me wonder if the originals are made out chipboard/particle board to add a little bit of a cushioning effect to the cab when on their backs?

Thanks MP, side rails came off really easy, i didn't even need to use the the chocks as it wasn't taped all along the length of the cab. Decals came off pretty easy too with the heat gun, still a bit of left over gunge to clean off and then on to the repair work. The cabinet is solid all over except those pesky back rails. I did manage to get one off without it busting into pieces so i can use it as a good template. I'm just going to do the Cab repair like you planned with yours and leave the playfield swap over to an expert. I would like to give it a crack sometime in the future but i am NOT going to practice it on my Bride

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Does anyone know if the chrome helmet is being sold anywhere?? My helmet is "structurally" as new, but the chrome has chipped off in a lot of places. Before i go to the lengths of getting it re-chromed (which COSTS) thought i would check first to see if anyone has some leads. I've looked in all the places i can think of with no luck whatsoever

Not as yet MP, pretty sure they would know about the demand though i would think.

I really appreciate the offer, TY. With the shipping cost and about $65-$85 (guess) for the actual helmet And after converting over to our crapola dollar rate it's about the same price as getting my helmet chromed. Going off the quality i've seen and experienced from the guys i've used before over here ( i had an STTNG shooter handle done before) the end result will be stunning. To be honest the last helmet i bought which was about 2 years ago had very ordinary chrome on it, flaked extremely easy

Especially if it's been shot by a Cylon (groans from the audience)

Yesterday i messaged the guys at Pinball Life asking if there would be a run of BOP light baffles as i noticed they have been selling certain other ones on their site. They told me they would look into it and that it would probably have to be done in 2 parts due to the size. I don't know about all you guys but the one on my machine is getting very brittle and had some pieces broken off here and there, it is usable but on it's way out!!
I'd sure like to replace this part when i get my machine restored later in the year, perhaps if they get some more requests for this baffle it "may" add a little more interest for them to make it JOIN me in my quest please

Diameter is different isn't it?

I painted a spare helmet which needed bog work to fix some holes and did it using model paint (Alclad II Laquer) in the prismatic colour Sapphire to Deep Blue. Turned out ok but i was too heavy handed on the coats and it was too dark. I've got another helmet that i just had "something" done to it
I'm keeping mum about it til it turns up in the mail, lol, All will be revealed. Only thing i will say is that peeps will either love it or hate it, i doubt there will be any inbetweeners

Thanks MP but i doubt any of my "machine fiddlings" stacks up to your Led Mods

BINGO Good Guess!!
I had a few options for the particular film (as they call it) but i was deliberately staying away from anything that had a metal look or for that matter carbon fibre. I wanted something that would blend in with the theme of the machine as much as possible and this was the best fit for the job i felt, called (Galaxy). I'm also planning on changing the flashers to all Purple and also purple LEDS for the helmet, along with a few other ideas i'm brewing, yup, keeping mum about those at the moment The other option was a film called (Pink Lightning) which looked VERY cool but also had a lot darker background, virtually black, just felt it wasn't gonna work as well.
My guess is the purists will hate it, probably lots of peeps will, but i LOVE IT !!!

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I'll look into those, gonna have to replace some LEDS anyway

Me too Unfortunately that's a few months off before the bride will be back together, i've still got a new helmet that i can use if i'm not entirely happy with the overall look once installed. Also got the original helmet that was in the machine when i bought it (needs some repair work) and i'm thinking about getting that one done in the Pink Lightning film. There's one major thumbs up for having the helmet hydrodipped. As most will know, the chrome on these helmets is pretty crap really and tends to flake off fairly easily, after hydrodipping the film they then coat with a clear gloss to seal it which helps to protect the design from damage.

Sounds like a great idea to me
I've put in my order for some Purple Passion, think they will make that hydrodipped helmet even better.

Now ya tell me

So will they not work?, flicker?, blow up?

After reading through the attached link and then your last post i gotta agree with the cracked solder joint scenario. The longer a machine has been left on then everything obviously heats up so a dodgy joint starts to work better. I had a similar issue with an unrelated machine (Daytona USA), the longer it was left turned on then the problem "Temporarily" resolved itself

Perhaps to stop the prop from banging/scraping against the inside of the cab? they do get loose sometimes, my best guess anyway

Looks to me like it's on the way to oblivion (i'm sure no expert on displays though). If you've swapped cables and the connector pins are ok (also no loose contacts on the pin solder) then it can't be much else i can think of.

Certainly when i first got my machine the backbox decals were that same blueish-grey, i always wondered if that was from fading. The inside/front of my backbox was black not the purple it shows on this flier. I'm about to repaint mine the final colours after all the pre-coat and i'm doing the inside of the main cab purple. After seeing this i might do the backbox in purple too, looks good

There's probably more choices available than you can poke a stick at but i've used Black Epoxy Primer ( Epotec 408 ) over the bare wood, then used 2 Pac automotive semi gloss black paint over that. For the purple areas it will be just Automotive Acrylic Lacquer paint. I looked for some purple house paint (acrylic) in the appropriate colour but was told they couldn't tint it to that darkness (at least here in Oz anyway).

After the 2nd coat of purple not really MP, i'm just not a big fan of doing a grey or white primer coat, mainly cause if by chance the topcoat gets damaged then a lighter base coat shows up more. That's really a personal choice though

Good point!!. I did state i was no expert though

Anyone know what happened with the guy who was developing the magnet aprons (Ninjaboot) i think it was?, that thread seems to have closed down

YUP, agree with that point, i even posted about that. If it came down to copyright issues at the end of the day...well i understand what that's all about BUT in a lot of ways that gets right up my nose. Sad cause he had some awesome ideas and artwork in there.

Is that actually possible? , if so, great idea

Anyone able to burn a rom chip for me?? I don't have the facilities to do that

I can only guess No Blow, which kinda defeats the purpose of a fuse in the first place
Not sure what else it could be MP?

This should help you out although it's in metric but i'm sure you'll be able to convert the measurements no worries. Sorry about the colour on the second pic, i printed the first pic out so i could write on the measurements but the printer was bang out of ink
The 14mm length on the right hand side bends towards the camera (the rest is sitting flat on the bench). I estimate the bend upwards is between 35 to 40 degrees. All measurements are to the outside of the bends if that makes sense. By the way, i should also mention that the bar the gate attaches to is in the correct orientation to the machine, so the open end is held down by a locknut and the other is screwed down to the wooden rail. The wire is backwards in the photo, so the 14mm bent end goes towards the open end of the bar. Ummm hope that's clearer than mud

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No worries at all, my BOP is still in bits waiting for the rebuild so it was easy to get to.

Ahhh Ok, the one attached to the right ramp (left side of it). I can get to that one even easier Have you got the rest of the assembly though? that gate activates a switch. Here's some pics to make sure this is what you need.

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Righto, gotcha this time! Yup, still no ink, lol. The measurement 26.5mm is most likely 27mm just like the opposite side but measuring that's what it looked like, when you look at the piece though it would be the same size both sides just my wire has a bit of a bend in it i think. The 14mm right hand section is again bent towards the camera and it would be bang on 45 degrees i'm tipping. The left hand 39 mm end is also slightly bent towards the camera (about the last 5 or 6mm at the tip), not sure if it's supposed to be like that as it's not like the piece can come out of the metal bar anyway. That left hand tip is also flattened somewhat about 2-3mm at the end, could be it was stuffed with by a previous owner, not sure. Anyway....so to charges, let's calculate ......part removal and re-attaching, labour, measurement surcharge, pen ink, eye strain......Ohhhh no charge for the printer ink as there was bugger all anyway Hope that helps Duda, should get you fixed up this time!

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Same, i have an attractive pile of bits waiting for placement A forlorn looking playfield expectantly awaiting tear down, a still unfinished cab hanging out for the final coating of paint and a spiffy new playfield going ballistic in it's box wanting some love!

Nooo, where are they available from? I don't think i've even seen a post about them. Are they coated in black vinyl like the originals?

If no-one has that part spare i'm pretty sure it wouldn't be too hard to make.

Starship Fantasy? .........YUP. just checked, IN STOCK

Yeah there is......4 balls stuck behind the apron

It's on the Translite image

SWEET, if that's an original in great shape it's probably worth 2 of the regular one's in similar condition. I don't believe there were too many made of the prototype playfield. I have one now but it's a repro

I'm missing the T-nut entirely on my machine but i'm wondering if there may have been a support hex screwed to the underside of the end of the egg crate plastic. It's pretty close to lining up directly under that hole.

Nope, that's not it.

Man that is AWESOME I'd fire your cat though, spent most of the time sleeping on the job and didn't seem to give a rat's arse about the rebuild

If you replace the batteries whilst the machine is on (carefully) you don't revert back to factory settings. BUT anyhoo, you've got it sorted now I can't recommend changing to NVRam enough, banged on about this many times and i'm still banging on Forget battery changing forever!!! Worth the money and the only drawback i can mention is if you might need to get the Ram chip space socketed (some of the original Ram's were soldered directly to the board, depends on machine).

Have a look at the Ram chip on your CPU board, if it's already socketed and not soldered to the board it's a simple matter of removing the original Ram chip and replacing with the NVRam chip

Just spotted this on FB >>>> https://pinballsupernova.wordpress.com/2017/03/27/news-dutch-pinball-unveils-bride-of-pinbot-25th-anniversary-news-about-big-le

My initial reactions are... Translite? OMG it's bloody hideous, some may like it, that's ok, does nothing for me.
The artwork for the redesigned playfield......Bleeeggggghhhh, definitely NOT keen.
Price..... Are you freckin kidding me???????? and that is, i presume, US dollars, over here in Oz after converting to our crap dollar and all the added extras, that would be closer to 14 Grand BUGGER THAT !!!

Which one to go with though MP? i know you've mentioned having the CPR mirrored glass version and so have i. It's hard to make a call until the 3D version is revealed of course. Look forward to the unveiling

It would be extremely difficult to do without scouring the artwork with the blade.

Just recently received a package from Ron @ pinballplatingandmore, a set of chrome back box hinges and a chrome lock down bar for my "in waiting" BOP restore. I can't speak highly enough about the beautiful finish on these parts, so THANKS Ron

There's a BIG difference between ratted out and 7K

Agreed, i would be keeping it

Mine is still in bits

I would tend to agree but 2009? My repro was from the first batch and i haven't had it that long. Curious why it would be printed that date

That's not bad but i think i would prefer a decal of some sort, not just a solid colour. I will have a tinker later on today, see what i can come up with

I knew what ya meant MP You could even use the same material that is used on some spinners but at the moment i'm leaning towards another style decal

I've got 3 ideas for a decal but my paint.net program is driving me nuts at the moment

Typo's are a biatch

Anyway, here's a few ideas i stuffed around with, these aren't sized correctly as yet, just mocked up to see what they might come out like. These would have to be stuck to the top of that plastic, not inside it, and of course i haven't allowed for the rivet heads either . Another thought would be to use that chrome/mirror finish tape like what is used inside the Fish Tales topper dome, anything has gotta look better than just plain white surely
Now i know the 3rd one looks stretched but that's unavoidable cause the original picture was wider and it needed to be narrower to fit the basic size of the plastic. When you click on the pics the resolution is better by the way. Anyyyyyhoooo, thoughts?

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The 2 screws heads to the right of the plastic wouldn't cover much but i'm guesstimating that the rivet head will end up smack dab on the brides head, perhaps a tad lower. It will be possible to shape the decal no worries, i just made them rectangular to start with but yeah, that rivet head is the hardest to get around for an image like that one.

I was thinking something along those lines also, had a google for images and there wasn't much that was very useful. It would probably work ok to scan/copy some of the astronauts off the playfield or plastics though
I will have another go at it later on today.

Another option could be just one larger astronaut pic, something like this perhaps?

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Geeez i forgot about doing some work on that design, sorry guys, been all over the place with various projects lately. I will try and get back to that really soon.

The ball lock cover sits above that area though, if anything it's left of center on her neck or just below that. If you look at the bride pic on the translite there's not a great deal of detail in that area so just scanning that particular area to marry with the translite pic and adding some little astronauts to it, well, it might look a bit weird.

So i got out the scanner today and unwrapped my BOP play field and scanned all the little astronauts and also all the astronauts on the translite as well. I also scanned the area on both playfield/translite about where the ball lock cover should relatively be. The attached 2 pics are a bit pixelly, wont be like this when it is reduced to decal size, you guys will get the idea though. As i suspected it will be a barren backdrop to add astronauts to but might be able to do something with it. Thought's on which of these backdrops to use, if not either of these What?

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Sorry, yeah click on them they won't be so bloody huge

I had a go at adding some astronauts to that pic, the one's scanned from the translite, but i think it will just look out of place with the other playfield plastics. I spent about an hour fiddling and F%^%$%G around and in the end got the shits with it and deleted, lol.
I think it's gonna have to be done with the lesser detail astronauts scanned from the playfield and see what i can do with that. I just don't have the skills to create astronauts from scratch in paint.net program be bloody handy though.

I had a bit of spare time today and this is what i came up with for a first draft. Welcome to tell me it's crap And yeah i know it's ROUGH around the edges of the astronauts, i just did a basic one to start with and see how the images fit and decide on placement.
Thought's? Idea's?

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They could be made larger, no worries about that. These are about the same scale as they are on the other plastics and playfield though.
Any other ideas for images MP? Just having the background alone might be a bit too bland.

You're plotting a light-up already aren't ya

Any other suggestions for the ball lock plastic decal? or should i just give up and drown myself in bourbon...... mind you pickled Aussie is not a good look, especially if i decide to wear my Borat green mankini
SERIOUSLY though...some idea input would be great about now!!

Hmmm not sure if i can do it that way in paint.net MP. When you add the astronauts you click on the picture, use the rectangle grab tool to highlight around the astronaut and then use "paste into new layer" to add to the background picture and then use the erase tool to go around the edges of the astronaut. In doing the erase part you are then regaining the covered over background. I know you can size the astronaut to what you want but as soon as you start the erase part i don't think you can then resize back again. It's gonna take a bit more fiddling and practice i think

Welcome to the club, looks to be in great condition

I am wondering why the ball is going into your mini playfield at a speed that can break a mini post? Are you missing that little ball gate at the end of the ramp?

So i worked out how to clean up the little dude images and redid the first draft. Whilst i was at it i also did another with the astronauts from the translite so here's the 2 choices so far. The only thing i need to add will be the cutouts on the right hand side where the 2 screws go and the rivet head that sits near the center. Sizing is pretty close although it may look way big in the pics. Thoughts?

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Need any changes you think, placement of the dudes, alterations of the dudes, different dudes
Despite my thoughts that this one would look out of place with the play field plastics and the play field itself, using the coloured characters from the translite as it does. I think i'm leaning towards this one myself.

Yeah you could do that too, i was just trying to get something that matches where the plastic is situated so it blends in to it's place......well trying anyway

Go for it be interested to see what you come up with.

Welcome to the club, machine looks great
Mine is still some months away from resto but your pics are making me antsy, lol
Another Paul in the club?, might be too many now i vote MP out

Any updates?

That usually happens over time, the translite will create slight air gaps between the glass, mainly cause of heat i assume. Just carefully remove the plastic strips and reset the translite, a good clean of the glass doesn't hurt either while you're at it. I have found that sometimes you can get a slight oily appearance between the glass and the translite, just needs a decent clean to sort it.

Have you tried re-seating the sound rom chip/s?

Arrggghhhhh..shit man i feel bad for suggesting it now seemed the most likely thing to check first though.
There is possibly other places to get hold of the sound rom set but these guys do have them, need to choose your machine from the drop down list i think.
https://ksarcade.net/bally-williams-wpc-sound-a-12738-eprom-set.html

Movement at the station....... getting excited to have the old girl back together

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Cheers Paul I'm really looking forward to playing Bride again as it's been over 2 years in pieces now. The PF swap/rebuild is being done by someone else whom i know does fantastic work. Apart from the fact i just didn't want to try my first ever full blown PF rebuild on this machine i just haven't had the spare time to do a major job like this (also still don't have a rotisserie) As you know i still have a Getaway mod that i still haven't completed I really need to quit my bad habit of kicking off new projects until i have completed all the outstanding others.

Cheers It wasn't my idea that but i do think it's a good one and being powder coated i had the choice of any colour.

A couple more progress pics.

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I had it hydro coated a year or so back. You can choose a heap of different patterns/designs. This one in particular was called Galaxies from memory, was either this or the one called Pink Lightning but i thought this one fitted the machine better.