Hey all. Here is a teardown of BoP's gearbox for those are looking to freshen up theirs: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cleaning-bops-gearbox
The swap is coming along. New playfield and plastics, and polishing everything makes such a difference.
Quoted from nwpinball:
Someone local told me they found a replacement for these at an auto parts dealer, it was used for shocks. I forgot about looking for it until now since mine cleaned up pretty well.
Well, now that is very interesting. Here is a random image for a search for "shock mounts". Looks similar and I bet there is an exact match somewhere.
I was thinking that hand cutting would not give a perfectly flat surface. Bandsaw. . . one more thing that I don't have space for.
I just realized that I am missing a piece from my CPR reproduction plastic set. I just sent CPR an email to see if this was not included in my kit (or I misplaced mine) or missing from their set. Out of curiosity, I was wondering if anyone who had a set from CPR could check to see if this plastic was included in their kit.
Quoted from 85vett:
That one is not included. At least it didn't come with my set and it is also not pictured on their website.
I'm guessing since that one requires rivets they figured people wouldn't replace them. That's my only thought on why at least.
Fortunately, it's a cheap plastic that is in stock here. http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1A-50002-3
Thanks for checking. I'm surprised that they'd leave out a $3 (retail) piece of plastic from an otherwise complete set.
Heard from from CPR. Turns out that piece wasn't in the master design and out of the 400+ sets they've sold, I'm the first one to notice. They even had room on the sheet on which these are printed to include it, so they think it was just missed on the reference machine, but are checking internally with the designer for that set. I'm guessing no one wanted to bother to pop the rivets, but given how yellowed they have become, I'm surprised no one noticed this before and contacted CPR.
Quoted from ToucanF16:
My set is still in an unopened bag awaiting my playfield swap. I wonder how many of those 400+ sets still sit on someone's shelf and how many have been actually been inspected?
I suspect many. My set was from the first batch, and sat for several months till I started my PF swap.
Personally, I like the games having all the pieces as they left the factory, but overall, it is no big deal in a home use environment. We are talking a 1% increase in preference. Of course, if there is a frequent place where a ball gets hung up, I do like to get that fixed.
I just finished restoring my BoP (new playfield, cabinet refinished and decalled, etc.), and installed/programmed a pinduino. Figured this crowd would appreciate the effects:
Glad you all like it. For the LEDs in the helmet, I'm running the modified version L-8 ROM with ghosting and billionaires patches.
Now that mine has been restored for a couple of weeks, I have to say that taking a players condition game and completely refurbishing it is awesome. The difference in game play is wonderful and regardless of the questions regarding Peter's repro playfield, having it to replace my original playfield is a world of difference. For those with the BoP in their restore queue, take the time to do it right, replace all worn components, redo the cabinet, and enjoy a close-to-new-out-of-box experience with BoP.
I'm thinking of make a few plug and play kits of my interactive shuttle ramp and face lighting.
I already have one request, and I *think* I can do them for around $100 (plus shipping), but I am probably a month or two away from getting everything together to make these. Just PM me if you are interested.
Quoted from MustangPaul:
Oh man that looks great but the pops need to be lit more. It's a complete kit I take it and plug-n-play? I'd take one.
Thanks Paul. Yes -- it would be a complete plug and play kit. Pops . . . this set up only has two channels for addressable LEDs (one for the shuttle ramp and one for the face). To just light those up, Comet's matrix would be a good option.
Okay -- it looks like there are 3-4 people interested (cloud9, fuseholder, mustangpaul, and spitfiren8). I'm going to cap it at that for the first round. This will let me make sure I can build the kits, write the instructions, and work through any feedback. Also this will let me figure out if I am too optimistic about the work involved with making these.
Hey all. Thanks for the interest, but having made kits before, I want to make sure that I can handle the work before committing to too many people at once. I'll start a waiting list (or a second batch):
Woo-hoo! I finished the first two BoP Pinduino kits! They took a bit longer than expected due to having to design a new WPC Pinduino Board and an adaptor board to get clearance off the power driver board. They are packed and ready to be shipped to the first two testers.
The next set of tester kits should be ready in a week or two. I ran out of board-mounted plugs due to the new adaptor boards (which doubles the number I need per kit).
Also, I've update the instructions: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1MLP6dfrXEHKzagEaGHgIDAJDE9ru7fXbJFnbxBFeEaE/edit
If anyone want to build this themselves, the complete list of parts is at the top of the instructions. Feel free to PM me if there are any parts or steps that I missed or are not clear, or if you have any questions.
Quoted from Morydees:
Here ya go Paul. Cross-posting in case the Pinduino thread I originally put it in ever goes away.
Man, I hope the pinduino thread doesn't go away! Seriously, wonderful write up and thanks again for taking all the photos of the installation. If anyone is interested in a kit (or making this yourself and just wants a Pinduino), feel free to send me a PM.
Quoted from Morydees:
Yeah, it's pretty slick. I should grab the software and see what else I can tinker with/customize. Here's one more quick vid closer up with end-game/attract.
Code for this and everything else I've written for the Pinduino is 100% free and open source (GPL). Please clone it, mod it, develop something better, post it, share it, and send me a pull request (happy to add it to the code base).
Quoted from BriPin:
Hi all! Is there a way to remove the head motor with the playfield only raised in the machine? I removed the cage and the two screws at the top of the motor but it looks like I have to remove the cube somehow to get to more screws. Anyone care to share some tips?
I recall that those screws are on the top of the playfield and located under the shuttle ramp. You'll have to take the ramp off to get to them, which you can do with the PF in the game.
Quoted from lilltlc:
How much? I must have missed the price in the thread.
I sell Plug and Play kits for $150 shipped in the continental US. For shipping to other places, I need to check the prices first.
Instructions on how to install them (which has the build parts listed at the top that I use for assembly for anyone who wants to make their own): https://docs.google.com/document/d/1MLP6dfrXEHKzagEaGHgIDAJDE9ru7fXbJFnbxBFeEaE/edit
Code (free and open source): https://github.com/elyons/professor_pinball_pinduino_sketches
Just PM me or post in the pinduino thread if you have any questions: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/update-arduino-shield-propin-pinhead
Quoted from Catalyze:
My next question..... How do you get the front off the Pinbot Values to replace the bulbs? This is the piece of plastic that is at the top of the Pinbot mini playfield that has 3 point value windows. I tried removing the two fasteners and that didn't seem to accomplish anything.... especially since they didn't come all the way out. Thanks for any help!
It is attached from the back by nuts which you are not going to get to without taking out the PF. Fortunately, the bulbs are in black screw sockets (like under the playfield) and can be reached if you have the PF up at 45 degrees (using the PF support bar.) Not the easiest to replace, but not impossible when leaving the PF in the game.
Quoted from Pesmerga:
Hello guys my machine has a problem with second face multiball. When both eyes are covered the balls are released and "blocked" by the plunger. The face turns and the plunger goes down once, letting only one ball to come down. The other gets stuck in the position pictured so the system doesn't know that it is there!
It is released only if you send another ball up or if you lose the ball and the pin starts the ball check..can you help me solve this problem? I've already checked the switch and they work well..are the ball supposed to go down both togheter or the plunger needs to go down 2 times?
Thanks for the help!!
It should release each ball with a bit of a delay between them. Since you game is going into ball search, check to make sure that the first switch is working using the switch test. Use the ball in the ramp rather than your finger as it may not be pressing the switch in far enough.
Quoted from woody76:
Finally in da club. Could not pass up a 1300 bride. Going to clean her up and stick in the game room. If anyone has any shop out and led recommendations I would appreciate it.
Welcome to the club. My favorite LEDs for GI are natural frosted twin 2835 from Comet: http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/2smd-ct-ft.htm
Color match most of the inserts (avoid yellow and orange).
I also added a couple of spots above the slings in mine to brighten the center of the PF, and some purple flex heads to shine at the top of the the left/right loops and the mini playfield. Finally, I did replace the caps on my pops with clear and added slow color changing LEDs.
In terms of shopping it -- depends on how deep you go. Flipper rebuild is a must, new sleeves in all the coils, replace any worn plungers and linkages. If you get into the head, take apart the gearbox, clean, and lube with Super Lube:
Quoted from MustangPaul:
OR!!! Clean the underside of the inserts REALLY good and put those clear dome 2835's in there. The facets of the inserts sparkle like a new Stern and you can see the decals better, your not color bombing the inserts. Give it a try.
Hmm. I'll give this a try. Normally, I like the green/blue/red with color matched LEDs as it makes the inserts look really good. However, are you talking about this dome for the extra sparkle?
Quoted from Triplecdad:
He suggested a woodworker's trick - using car bondo
Car bondo works very well for divots/dents in the cabinet as well as edges, but if you have a very beat up corner, you may want to use something stronger (fiberglass and resin) otherwise a bump on the corner while moving the machine can cause the bondo to pop out. But, I am happy to help you out!
Quoted from Fourbyracer:
I have never tried it but could you drill pilot holes, put in a few screws partially into the corner you are repairing, and use them as anchors that the bondo would then adhere to? Seems like that might just hold the Bondo permanently to the machine.
That is exactly what you do, but use fiberglass and resin rather than bondo. Vid (of course!) has a guide and some great photos: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cabinet-restoration-vids-guide#post-2546333
Also, if you are doing a BoP cabient, here are the notes I took when doing mine:
* decal removal: heat gun and wide putty knife
* sand with 60 or 100
* Wood filler: Minwax 12 OZ High Performance Wood Filler 2 Component; Kwikwood http://pinballrehab.com/1-articles/pinball-restoration/tutorials-and-techniques/99-patching-wood
* Bad corners: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cabinet-restoration-vids-guide#post-2546333
* block sand with 200
* Wood filler glaze: dolphin glaze
* primer: Rustoleum
* paint: Rustoleum Satin Black or Semi-Gloss
* block sand with 320
* block sand with 600 before stickers
* metal screen: Rustoleum cold galvanizing compound
* inside: foam carpet cleaner http://pinballrehab.com/1-articles/pinball-restoration/cabinet/101-cleaning-inside-of-cabinet
* main: semi-flat black (krylon)
* speckles: gloss black (rustolem painters touch)
* bleach-white and brushes for cleaning
* scuff with red scotch bright pad
* wipe with tack cloth before painting
Quoted from TimO:
I need to replace one of the pop bumper lamps under the Pinbot mini playfield. Am I correct in assuming I need to completely remove the helmet before I can remove the the upper deck to access the pop bumpers?
Yes. At the least, it will make removing the mini playfield much easier.
That is a set of lights that is probably driven by one of the GI circuits. Check to see if its fuses is blown. Also, check the GI plug to see if it is burnt (if so, replace header and plug). If not that, then it will be something upstream in the circuit. PinWiki's writeup for dealing with WPC GI problems is a great resource: http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#General_Illumination_Problems
Quoted from Yesh23:
Is the gi fuse and plug under the playfield or in the backbox? Thank you
They are in the backbox. I've attached an image of the power driver board with the things to check highlighted. Also, if you have a blown fuse, you may want to check for any accidental shorts under the playfield (GI bulb socket touching another piece of metal), too, that could be causing the fuse to blow.
Image credit: photo taken from Chris Hibler's website.
I like the ideas for a better decal for the ball lock cover, but has anyone played with using the cartoon astronauts to be working on something for that sticker?
Quoted from TimO:
I like that idea; like they are climbing out of her cleavage. The interesting thing about that area of the playfield is that the nearby"boob" rings only line up when viewed from the player's position. Likewise, any artwork on the white cover needs to accomodate that POV.
Quoted from Draegermeister:
Has anyone found a 3D translite?
I see the killer video from Mario:
» YouTube video
But, I can't find one for sale. I keep bothering PPS, but no dice. If any of you have pull, help me find one. Hopefully, I can get one at Expo in Chicago next month.
Check out this thread and contact the OP to see where they are in production.
Quoted from Marvin:
The game is fine, the lighting is terrible.
I think being nice is better than just slamming someone for the effort they put into customizing the game to their liking. While I agree that using colored LEDs in the backglass isn't my taste, some people like it. And, for those that do it, this one is done well (I guess). Personally, I like cool whites for BoP.
Quoted from OzPaul:
I have a Pinduino kit installed (which looks super cool on YouTube videos), but just can’t get it to work. Currently diagnosing the issue, hence the cables hanging out in the top right.
My 5V line is currently at 4.8V (no resets), with sporadic power up U6 checksum errors, so studying pinwiki about the 5V issues before asking lyonsden for assistance.
Feel free to ping me and I'm happy to walk through some diagnostics (or send you another pinduino to let you test if that is the problem). The 12V power the arduino and the 5V powers the LEDs. Do you see a light on the Arduino when it is connected? Also, if possible, check the power at the pinduino. There is an extra power port that you can probe to make sure it is getting 12V and 5V. If it is not getting power, check the power harness (which I can send you a replacement as well.) Hope to help get you up and running with the pinduino as quickly as possible. Feel free to PM me and I'll send you replacement parts to help you get things sorted out.
My apologies for the bad power harness, but great to hear that it was a simple fix (and that you found the problem quickly). Glad you like the Pinduino kit for BoP! One of my favorites.
Finished installed the helmet back in my BoP and have updated the code. I think it came out really well (and kicks the snot out of the stock lighting).
Code, as always, is open source: https://github.com/elyons/professor_pinball_pinduino_sketches/tree/master/BOP-ramp-head
If anyone is interested in a plug and play kit, just PM me (and I'll get this listed in my Pinside store). I think the cost will be $125 (or you can DIY for around $40-$50).
I have this now listed in my pinside shop: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1025-professor-pinball/01376-pinduino-bop-helmetlighting-kit
Also, I wrote up instructions for building/installing: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1kTpFVe-YBrWfoj62PlGlrLQYIF78DTn__jdQGrwmKTk/edit
Quoted from MustangPaul:
Interesting. I'd need a plug-n-play model. So it changes colors and patterns by it's self. Where does it draw power from?
Paul, you had asked similar questions about the Pinduino kit for the ramps and face -- this uses exactly the same system. It changes lighting effects based on game play (the Pinduino is programmable, arduino-based microcontroller than monitors pinball activity through J126 on the power driver board).
That is the magic of the pinduino: it is a generic and customizable controller that lets anyone doing anything. I've released all code as open source to let people design anything they can imagine (well, to a limit, with programmable LEDs being one of those limits. ). I've also released (open source) the board files for the the more powerful and flexible pidnuino system (which uses an Arduino Mega rather than a Nano) that let's people control addressable LEDs and 12V RGB LEDs: https://github.com/elyons/professor_pinball_pinduino_sketches/tree/master/board_files. Just imagine how much more awesome your Lighted Legs could be if they changed colors based on game play (your leg kits are already awesome).
It gets power from the power driver board, using 12V to power the arduino and pinduino onboard circuits, and 5V for the LEDs. The helmet is using 16 LEDS, which would draw about 1/4A of current when set to white on full brightness. The ramp and face kit use ~60 LEDs, which draws about 1A. I've have both of these running off my power driver board, which I have updated with a MUCH better 5V and 12V voltage regulators:
Every WPC system I bring in gets these puppies put in (along with NVRAM).
Sorry for the long post, but hope some of the info is useful. Feel free to PM me if you have any more questions -- I'm always happy to help people get their ideas and creations off the ground.
Glad you like the Pinduino helmet! Such a great improvement.
When I replace the 5V and 12V regulator, I've now remove the 5V heatsink, leave the 12V heatsink in place but don't both attaching it to the 12V voltage regulator, replace C2 (I have a pile of these), and don't both replacing C3.
I hadn't read about removing C2 and C3, but leaving them in can't hurt (unless they leak).
Made a video showing the Pinduino controlled helmet lights using BoP 1.0:
The same code for the Pinduino is used for both BoP 1.0 and 2.0:
Quoted from Devilsmuse:
Mancave sorry for the delay, but here is what I was thinking for the ball lock cover. Its still a little rough but I wanted to run it by everyone. This would simply be a sticker and would wrap the ball lock cover as shown. Let me know what you think.
Very well done!
Quoted from Devilsmuse:
Well here it is in action. I see that I have a little more work to do- like heavy up the line work on the astronauts and adjust the angle of the trim-out, where the side meets the door, but for a "one off" I am fairly happy with the results. I have attached pictures of the "install" It was tricky lining the sticker up because the Lock When Lit cover is not symmetrical as you can see if you look closely at my photos AND... my artwork is! Take a look and let me know what you guys think . Thanks
Quoted from TimO:
After work today, it's time to change out bad bulbs on my BOP again (there's always one necessitating the removal of the mini playfield...sigh!). Also out are all four of the inserts leading to the loop on the left (just right of the shuttle ramp entrance.) The loop still scores correctly, but they don't light up. I assume it's too much of a coincidence to be all four bulbs. If it's not the bulbs, what next?
Power going to the light board. Check to makes sure the wires are intact, no cold solder joints, etc.
Quoted from jonpin:
Not following updates on news lately, but I am looking for a playfield for my BOP. I contacted Peter in Germany and was "put on the list" and then a week leter he's requesting full payment as the PF is going out for clear? Is this company in good standing at the moment? Seems a little fishy as to how quick that happened unless my timing was impeccable(which it is usually not in my case).
Before I pull the trigger on a new one, if it's legit, does anyone here have one to sell?
I was on his list for three years for the first batch. While it was a long, long wait, it was worth it. He is legit.
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