(Topic ID: 132740)

BOP Club...non 2.0


By MustangPaul

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 1,769 posts
  • 158 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 30 days ago by RCA1
  • Topic is favorited by 71 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 630 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

BOP_WIP 14 (resized).jpg
BOPR2 (resized).jpg
BOPR1 (resized).jpg
15657091877713447650192677016386 (resized).jpg
20190813_110748 (resized).jpg
20190813_110732 (resized).jpg
20190728_152536 (resized).jpg
20190707_193051 (resized).jpg
20190705_144415 (resized).jpg
306FEB87-DB11-4E8F-96FE-2964C2460A2C (resized).jpeg
DF9FB419-1A2E-4A73-872F-FEED220068B2 (resized).jpeg
A63E971F-E287-4682-B1D5-3A064B36D45F (resized).jpeg
2B39D8C8-6865-48DC-8672-36618A21C3DC (resized).jpeg
5B2869B6-A77E-4AC9-B5C9-2A1B4480A64F (resized).jpeg
82AFE522-2BDF-4A7E-B5DB-E9D3B12E4B46 (resized).jpeg
F93C850B-C650-422B-909F-AAA4F3B9E923 (resized).jpeg

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider jsa.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#851 3 years ago

Ok guys, I'm in. This is my 2nd pin, ever (my first is a ToM).

This one plays ok, though I haven't fully inspected it yet. I've noticed the left flipper sticks sometimes, and the head seems to be out of sync with where it's supposed to be (stays on the mouth when it should be the eyes, etc). My intent is to strip it completely down and do a 100% full restore, cab, playfield and all. This is the biggest project like this I've ever done, but my 16 year old son is excited to help so I'm jumping in.

Thank goodness for all your resto threads. Can someone link to their favorites?

bop_(resized).jpg

#855 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Welcome aboard, are you gonna restore it to stock or mod it? Lots of good info on club back pages.

I'm going to restore it to stock first, though I may chrome up the stainless parts. Knowing me, I'm likely to mod it after. What have people done with their wireforms, left them or get them plated?

1 week later
#863 3 years ago

My son and I are working on a BoP restore together. Since there are so many threads on restoring BoPs, I figure I won't bore everyone with our progress (unless there is demand). I love working on it with him!

bop_restore_(resized).jpg

#868 3 years ago

Does anyone have any idea what the original painted backbox colors (rear, top) were? Were they painted purple? When I re-paint my backbox I'd like to get close to the stock color.

It's interesting that the backbox side art appears a blueish-gray in most photography I see, though the decals appear to be identical to the side cabinet art (purple). I'm guessing this is because the colors were printed on a different medium?

Any thoughts on this?

[EDIT] Looking into some of the marketing materials, it looks like the wood was painted purple in the demo for the photography and hinges were stainless:

1502f2_(resized).jpg

#870 3 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

Certainly when i first got my machine the backbox decals were that same blueish-grey, i always wondered if that was from fading. The inside/front of my backbox was black not the purple it shows on this flier. I'm about to repaint mine the final colours after all the pre-coat and i'm doing the inside of the main cab purple. After seeing this i might do the backbox in purple too, looks good

That's my inclination as well. What type of paint are you using for your primer and final top coats?

#876 3 years ago

FYI, started a thread today on my BoP restoration with my son:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bop-father-and-sons-first-restoration

1 week later
#890 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Much better. Wow that's a new one on me, sounds like something got shorted.

It does sound like a short, but the conundrum here is that no fuse has blown. It may be a different fuse than you think it is, if it shorted against another circuit. Check all the fuses.

1 month later
#942 3 years ago

Looks in great shape!

1 week later
#972 3 years ago

Just ordered Taylor's rails, and received my repro playfield today from Peter. I can't stop looking at it.

IMG_3302 (resized).JPG
IMG_3304 (resized).JPG

#975 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Great. How smooth are the edges of your inserts? I can feel many of my edges. Do you plan on adding any led's or led strips to the back of the pf?

The edges are smooth to the best of my ability to feel. Perhaps you need another coat of clear?

Yes to LEDs, but not until I'm done restoring to the original condition.

#978 3 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

I did the pinduino setup with the lights on the left ramp, there's enough color and lighting, I don't think I'm going to add any strips or sockets, to me it would take away from the effect of the LED work on the ramp, just my opinion.
also, if anyone does the pinduino setup, it will be much easier with the playfield out and the ramp and helmet already off, just FYI

I'd love to see what your setup looks like. Do you have any photo/video? Forgive me if it's earlier in the thread, I went through this already ages ago!

#980 3 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Here's a link to what mine looks like almost exactly, not the greatest perspective but from a correct playing perspective it brightens up the game very nicely...
ยป YouTube video

It does look pretty solid. I'm surprised there isn't an existing path for all of the LED additions to connect, though.

1 month later
#1039 2 years ago

Clearing over decals... That looks amazing. What kind of clear are you using?

2 weeks later
#1078 2 years ago

I'm getting the sense there has been little confidence here about the helmet bulbs and changing them to LEDs. If I've read right, the LED/GI OCD mods work for the rest of the game, but not for the helmet. If they are left incandescent, will it blow the LED OCD fuses? If made LED, will they flicker or ghost?

#1102 2 years ago
Quoted from Talon2000:

Test fitting the new metal plate. I made it with lowered side mounting holes, and made it solid in the middle areas. Making room for the two holes to mount the posts to. Trying first by just using the two post screws, I'm not sure that will be strong enough over the long haul though.

I don't suppose you have a photo of the original metal plates? I'm trying to understand better why CPR would say you don't need them, which doesn't make any sense to me.

#1105 2 years ago
Quoted from Talon2000:

...the pinball will roll towards the inside, causing the bride to look cross eyed.
I didn't like that option either. So I made individual holes the same radius as the original, but made it where you could mount it with the posts, which remains to be seen how well it will hold up since the screws are just held in by the plastic posts. But I have provisions to allow mounting the original screws to help hold it together jic.

Could you solve the same problem using 3D-printed ABS instead of a metal plate?

#1116 2 years ago

The metal plate behind the faces solves the problem though, so that seems to me to be a great solution with the new faces. I've heard two ways to solve it, one is to double-sided tape the original plates, the other create a new plate. I'm game for either way, but if talon2000 has a solution that works, it might be worth looking into manufacturing it.

talon2000, if you find your system works, I could probably generate a STL file for 3D printing a thin, lightweight solution that just adheres to the bottom. The weight of the balls wouldn't be enough for it to fall out with the right tape, and ABS plastic could work really well. I could also print it with the holes in the right location as well, if tape isn't your thing. I'm happy to give it a shot on mine once I get there (I haven't started the playfield swap yet, give me a couple weeks, I'm OCD about the cabinet being ready).

#1118 2 years ago

Actually, come to think of it, I could 3D print a beveled plate.

#1124 2 years ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

If they get manufactured, I'd be in to buy one.

Once I tear down my playfield and have access to the original plate, I'll do some measurements and see what it would take for my son to design a replacement that incorporates a bevel. We made those adapter brackets for the new style leg brackets and they work like a charm, I don't see why we couldn't make these. That is, unless the metal serves some other structural purpose that I don't understand where the ABS wouldn't work.

2 weeks later
#1166 2 years ago

Hey folks. I'm about to start a playfield swap. Can someone tell me what is supposed to be screwed into this t-nut? It's empty (nothing screwed into it). Nothing is on the playfield here, it's just an empty hole.

IMG_4069 (resized).JPG

#1169 2 years ago
Quoted from burningman:

Just took a look on my game.....is it the t-nut that holds the wireform for the shooter?

That could be it. I'll confirm when I'm back in front of it.

2 weeks later
#1209 2 years ago
Quoted from mollyspub:

theres going to be a batch 4 then ???

It would appear so, though you won't be able to purchase it until it's actually ready. Curious how fast it sells out.

#1211 2 years ago

Hey folks. Anyone know where the two metal "post-spacer #8x1" (part 02-4434) go?

This is the part I'm referring to:

IMG_4901 (resized).JPG

The parts list show two, my playfield only had one, here,in the center of this photo:

IMG_4900 (resized).JPG

However, I noticed that HEP's playfields seem to not have any, and instead, at that location, has this part:

IMG_4902 (resized).JPG

Just trying to get this back to the original layout. Any thoughts?

Thanks!

#1213 2 years ago
Quoted from Catalyze:

I have only found 1 metal item as you show in the top photo. Of course mine is nowhere close to that clean/shiny. Something that I am curious about is whether you use an individual rubber ring on yours or a two post loop rubber. I have seen both ways.

May I ask where yours was located? I'm trying to figure out where they were intended to be.

#1216 2 years ago
Quoted from Catalyze:

Oh....and I forgot to ask if you use a big rubber ring (like mine is above) to connect the blue plastic post to the metal post. Or.....do you use a separate rubber ring on each? I have seen both ways and would switch mine to the separate rings like the left outlane setup has.

Understand that when I received this machine to restore, many things were damaged or in the wrong place. This being said, as you can see from this photo, the two were not connected when I got the machine:

IMG_4436 (resized).JPG

It would seem you have that same metal part in the same place where it was located on my machine. That tends to imply it's supposed to be there, and HEP was just improving upon the original layout (or basing it on a previous machine). That is also supported by this rubber layout that came with my rubber kit:

IMG_4912 (resized).JPG

The letter C refers to a 5/16" rubber ring. This is the most common rubber in the kit, just a single ring around that post. The letter J refers to "Midi Post Rubbers," those are the super small ones that go around posts like the red ones on the upper playfield.

That leaves one more spacer of the same type that is, in theory, supposed to go somewhere else. Any ideas anyone?

Meanwhile, I'm happy to say we've made some real progress (with the exception of that post). I'm proud of these countersinked fin shank nails:

IMG_4905 (resized).JPG

We have most of the posts and the rails on at this point:

IMG_4907 (resized).JPG

2 weeks later
#1222 2 years ago

I'm restoring a BoP right now, and I'm having a little bit of difficulty on my new playfield fitting the helmet beneath/beside the left ramp, where the red lens covers one of the helmet blinkers. Could someone post a photo of how those two parts marry each other for me? It would help a great deal.

#1225 2 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Don't tell me you put them on the outside.

I didn't put the red lenses on the outside, I'm afraid. However, I'm still having difficulty. I'm not sure if it's because my repro playfield has the ramp a bit too close, the ramp is too think, or I've missed the placement of a spacer somewhere. Looking at the photo above, it appears your ramp is a bit closer to the side of the cabinet than mine is, so probably something related to that.

On a different note, I'm struggling to figure out why my head assembly doesn't stay calibrated. I've checked the roller switch, and it properly turns on and off based on the location of the depression in the head. However, if you see this page from the manual:

Screen Shot 2017-01-03 at 8.44.26 PM (resized).png

It's not entirely clear if I'm looking at the assembly from the rear, or from the front. Assuming I'm looking at it from the rear, the mouth plate would be on the right, the eye plate on top, the third face on the left, and the human face on the bottom. However, the holes for mounting the human face don't match properly. What is the correct orientation? I'm hoping I'm missing something obvious. Can anyone offer some guidance?

#1227 2 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

It looks to me like either top down or bottom up. Which way are the mounting taps fastened? I imagine from the underside of the pf.

Well, I think what I mean is that if you're standing at the rear of the playfield versus the front looking through the assembly. Either way, I can't seem to get the faces to mount as the manual would suggest, as the fourth face doesn't line up.

#1228 2 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

It looks to me like either top down or bottom up. Which way are the mounting taps fastened? I imagine from the underside of the pf.

Also, what do you mean by mounting taps? The holes for mounting the plates?

#1231 2 years ago
Quoted from Catalyze:

You are looking at it from the Rear view as you suggested. Faces 1 and 2 are listed with "stop plates" which would be the plates to keep the balls from dropping through too far. Since the top face (2) has the ball diverter for the eyes, then face 1 is the mouth to the right side.

Agreed. This is why I'm confused. The way the mounting holes are located, the only way I can make all four plates mount is if I mount the head plate on the diagram's bottom, followed by the eye plate on the diagram's right, the third face on the diagrams top, and the fourth plate on the diagrams left (where there is no depression). The reason is that the holes for the fourth plate are on the opposite corners as the other three, which appears to only be on the side with no depression. I feel like I'm missing something obvious. I tried rotating the side without the depression, but the holes won't line up if I do so.

#1232 2 years ago

This is driving me insane.

First, let me say I'm doing all of this because my BoP seems to not know what face is on, yet the tests all seem to function fine.

The manual must be misprinted or I'm truly, honestly, crazy as a bat.

Please, can someone take a look at this and make sure I have this right?

Note this photo the location of the depressions and the mounting holes:

head_view (resized).jpg

The mounting hole with the arrow pointing to it is located in a position that only allows for the mouth face to be positioned there. The mouth has mounting holes on opposite corners from the other faces, presumably to ensure that you don't install a face on the wrong side.

The challenge is that if you look at the depressions (indicated by the other arrow), that would be the BOTTOM of the diagram in the manual, which is reserved for face plate four (the human face). Tell me what I'm missing here?

If I install the mouth where it has to go (on the left of the photo), switch 67 assumes that is the human face, correct?

I'm hoping this all has something to do with my system not knowing what face is what.

#1236 2 years ago
Quoted from tfduda:

The manual seems off to me too unless I too have the orientation wrong.
Faces one through three should have the depressions behind them (that the roller switch goes through) while face four should have no depression for the roller switch. Your description and foto of the correct mounting hole for face one looks to be correct.
if the head isn't staying calibrated, perhaps the roller switch needs adjusting...? What exactly is happening?
And yeah, your bride's head looks way clean!

I just restored my bride from the wood up, and I'll proclaim victory once I get this head working properly.

What is happening is that it goes through the "homing" sequence of finding the proper face (the mouth) when you turn on the game or reset it. It stops on the fourth face, which is the human face.

There is no way to mount the mouth face where the human face is, the bracket assembly won't allow it. I checked the switch (67) and ensured it was showing open when on indentations and closed when not on an indentation (this was what the manual says). I'm now trying to see if I could have somehow plugged something in backwards, but everything is keyed so that would be tricky.

#1237 2 years ago
Quoted from jsa:

I just restored my bride from the wood up, and I'll proclaim victory once I get this head working properly.
What is happening is that it goes through the "homing" sequence of finding the proper face (the mouth) when you turn on the game or reset it. It stops on the fourth face, which is the human face.
There is no way to mount the mouth face where the human face is, the bracket assembly won't allow it. I checked the switch (67) and ensured it was showing open when on indentations and closed when not on an indentation (this was what the manual says). I'm now trying to see if I could have somehow plugged something in backwards, but everything is keyed so that would be tricky.

Ok, I've solved it, so a couple observations for anyone pursuing the same problem:

I've confirmed the manual is wrong in two places. First, it says that the roller switch on the back of the assembly "...must be open when on an indentation and closed when not on an indentation." That is reversed. When I read the manual, I took that as gospel and re-wired the switch when I restored the machine accordingly. Don't do that.

Secondly, the orientation is not correct associating face plates withe the diagram. Mouth, Eyes, and "Last Robot" face go on depression 1, 2, and 3. Human woman goes on the "no depression" side 4.

Third, several posts refer to the switch relay which is mounted under the playfield (not the motor regulator, this switch relay is a smaller PCB). See the post here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bop-face-motor-relay-fix ). This is the fix if it finds home initially and loses track of what face is what.

So, to fix my problem, I had to re-wire the roller switch properly, re-attach the faces properly, and reflow the cold solder joints on the switch relay PCB.

#1239 2 years ago

Anyone know where this plastic goes?

IMG_5575 (resized).JPG

#1242 2 years ago

For anyone interested, our 1.0 project is now complete. I posted photos in this thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bop-father-and-sons-first-restoration/page/9#post-3530201

I love playing it.

#1246 2 years ago
Quoted from mavantix:

Well it's nicer looking than the deck screw some moron put in its place on mine.

My BoP had three deck screws on the playfield when I got it. I guess this is a common practice, huh?

#1256 2 years ago

Every time I turn the game on, it wants me to check the switch for Enter Head. I check the switch, it defaults to open and seems to close when I run a ball through it no problem. I then return to game and the credit dot goes away. All is well, then next time I power cycle it, same thing, check switch, Enter Head.

Am I missing something? I assume the system knows something is wrong because when it should be registering an Enter Head it's not, or something... but I can't seem to figure out what is wrong to fix it.

#1258 2 years ago
Quoted from jsa:

Every time I turn the game on, it wants me to check the switch for Enter Head. I check the switch, it defaults to open and seems to close when I run a ball through it no problem. I then return to game and the credit dot goes away. All is well, then next time I power cycle it, same thing, check switch, Enter Head.
Am I missing something? I assume the system knows something is wrong because when it should be registering an Enter Head it's not, or something... but I can't seem to figure out what is wrong to fix it.

Bump to the above question, plus a video. Here is my restored BoP with LED & GI OCD boards installed. In this case, we've installed incandescents into the helmet (as the OCD boards can't work on those lights due to the helmet controller board), and we've increased the GI OCD board F3 to a 4A fuse to handle the additional load.

#1259 2 years ago

Time-lapse video of our teardown and reassembly:

#1262 2 years ago
Quoted from tfduda:

Wow! How much time involved and how many photos were taken?

I turned the camera on when I was working, though I forgot a few times. In total, there were 29302 photos taken, one every five seconds. If you do the math, this equates to about 40 hours of actual work on the playfield in total. My guess is that it was closer to 45/50. Remember, this was my first playfield swap, so my reassembly took way longer than if I had a ton of experience under my belt.

I also took hundreds, if not thousands, of photos with my phone as I went. Originally I tried doing this with a better camera (Cannon 5D) but the lighting and depth of field made it impractical with the lens I had.

#1264 2 years ago
Quoted from Catalyze:

A very nice video indeed! The cat was the co-star of the video and seemed to have helped....not at all. Thanks for posting it and congratulations on a beautiful bride.

Thanks. Ripley (the cat star of the show) needs some exercise. I found her inside my Theatre of Magic yesterday, sleeping. Never leave your pinball machines open, folks.

#1267 2 years ago
Quoted from Toucanf16:

You need to also put that video in the
Cats and pinballs... thread!

I had no idea such a thread existed. Pinside, you never cease to amaze.

1 week later
#1271 2 years ago

I'm happy with my new backglass as well. I now have the NVRAM on my MPU. It's all operating really perfectly. I'm really hesitant to do the 2.0 upgrade because I'm loving the game so much as it is.

#1273 2 years ago
Quoted from RCA1:

I'm not going to do 2.0 because it is very expensive.

That is the most legit reason. In my case, I'm a stickler for OCD level restorations. It comes from my upbringing in Detroit. You don't upgrade a vintage car with a new model wheel or engine. Pinball feels similar to me. However, I do love playing 2.0, so I think eventually I'll cave, but first I'm going to play the 1.0 until I master it.

5 months later
#1360 2 years ago

Many thanks to woody76 and Pinball Plating and More for the chrome work on the helmet. Looks great!

IMG_7379 (resized).JPG

1 month later
#1374 2 years ago
Quoted from tfduda:

Question about orphaned connector in backbox:
I had to remove my BOP's backbox and playfield to make it light enough to move. I labeled connectors with tape as I removed them from sockets in the backbox, but as I was about 3/4 done removing them, I came across an apparently unattached connector with four pins (three active) and two wires (yellow, on outside pins I believe) that was located on the left hand side of the backbox. Although I did get distracted a few times, I don't think that I had removed a connector and forgot to label it or that a label fell off, but anything's possible. I labeled this connector with a 'NOT' (for not connected) and kept going, figuring that I could deduce whether or not it was connected based on photos I took beforehand.
After I got her moved and put back together and then attached all the connectors to the appropriate sockets in the backbox, I examined photos and couldn't find any sockets that should have a connector in them. I bravely plugged her in and flipped the switch. She started up fine and ran well and so I assume this is a connector that isn't attached to a socket by default. Can anyone confirm this? Moreover, if my suspicions are correct, does this connector have a purpose aside from confusing an amateur like me?

On the bottom of the speaker panel, there is a small yellow wire connector for the GI bulbs on the bottom of that panel. Could that be what you're talking about?

#1375 2 years ago
Quoted from jsa:

On the bottom of the speaker panel, there is a small yellow wire connector for the GI bulbs on the bottom of that panel. Could that be what you're talking about?

Photo:

IMG_2036 (resized).JPG

#1377 2 years ago
Quoted from tfduda:

The wires from the connector go into a bundle that heads down to the playfield and I haven't yet traced their source. I played several more games and didn't notice anything odd with how the machine operates, although it is possible that the connector hasn't been attached since I've owned her.
If having an unattached connector in the backbox isn't normal, I suppose I'll have to trace the wires.

I suspect it's either related to the face motor board or the helmet chase lights board, but I'll check when I get home tonight.

#1378 2 years ago
Quoted from jsa:

I suspect it's either related to the face motor board or the helmet chase lights board, but I'll check when I get home tonight.

Ok, no luck. Can you post a photo?

2 months later
#1492 1 year ago

That's pretty sick. I'm emotionally attached to my mirrored backglass, but this probably would look better.

2 weeks later
#1497 1 year ago
Quoted from Yesh23:

I'm still having the same issue when I get to head 3 and drain, sometimes it moves correctly back to the left (2nd face) but sometimes it moves to the right and is off (4th face). This happens maybe every 20 rotations (so it works right most of the time) but then it glitches up. I just swapped out the A-13892-2 hoping this would solve the problem but I'm still having the same problem so I put the old one back in. Any other ideas? Here's the picture of the board.

This sounds like an intermittent position switch. There is a rollover switch which, depending on whether it falls into the face chassis depression at different times, tells the game what face is up. If it falls out of sync, you might get strange behavior.

2 months later
#1534 1 year ago

That's actually really cool.

1 week later
#1540 1 year ago
Quoted from jonpin:

Is this company in good standing at the moment?

I think we can only comment on our experiences. Mine was excellent, my playfield showed up looking great. There has been a long list, and like you, I jumped ahead when someone cancelled. My recommendation is to jump on this.

The only thing I can say is that some folks have seen some minor clearcoat "settling" around the insert edges after considerable time. This is a function of his clearcoating process and I'm sure improves with each batch. Even if you had one with this effect, you can always re-clear.

4 months later
#1588 1 year ago
Quoted from mollyspub:

Don't bother. Just give her a makeover with a set of CPR faces!

You may need to modify the CPR faces as I did to accommodate new back plates, though.

#1592 1 year ago
Quoted from mollyspub:

All you have to do is transfer the mounting plates for the first two faces with 3m two sided tape.

...or use the 3D printed back plates I uploaded.

#1594 1 year ago
Quoted from Marvin:

it does not change the fact they are cut wrong. And a lot of people bought these because they didn't want the old bracket shadow under the face. I don't care either way, just putting the info out there.

Yeah, they are totally cut wrong. The originals were also beveled. I looked into altering the face but it was not feasible. One thing that works a little better is 3D printing a transparent or white ABS or PLA.

4 months later
#1611 11 months ago

Just installed pellew's drop-in replacement for the helmet control board. This introduces PWM fade for LED lights on the helmet. It's pretty amazing. Here's a video:

Here are a couple installation photos:

IMG_3605 (resized).JPG

IMG_3609 (resized).JPG

Here is a link to his thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bop-helmet-control-for-use-with-leds

4 months later
#1661 7 months ago
Quoted from HarrieD:

Progress. Playfield is done. I am a great believer of tidy work so I zip-tied the hell out of it.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looking great.

2 months later
#1705 4 months ago

Decals can look beautiful... and frankly, the proof is in the pudding when you see reactions.

I know everyone restores for different reasons...For me it was about the interaction with my son and the shared experience. We've done it twice, once for BoP and again for Future Spa. I don't think most restorers bother with the level of detail in prep for a decal, or the painstaking work to match the colors on the edges, but it was part of the joy with him.

I brought my restorations to GSPF this past weekend. Obviously, after a year of love put into it with my son, deep full restoration (arguably way over the top, but everything to what I would call finished with my OCD), it was terrifying to bring it to a show! However, the flip side, we wanted to share it, because in our house no one can appreciate how it compares to other BoPs.

I think it was a hit. The icing on the cake was watching people play it and get a kick out of playing a brand new looking/brand new feeling BoP. We also added Scorbit to it and the leaderboard aspects were also pretty fun.

Here's a link where a friend/operator took a video an posted it to Instagram:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BxolPTiHOc4/?igshid=1uuxe14lgs2ts

Here are a couple photos:

IMG_6082 (resized).JPG

IMG_6089 2 (resized).JPG

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 129.10
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
PinWoofer
$ 40.00
Playfield - Decals
Metal-Mods

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider jsa.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside