Joining the club as we speak.

Driving home with my new Bride.. which is handy, because when I get home, my actual bride is going to explode!

Machine looks in good condition, HUO and the chap bought it new in 1990.

PF seems good, no Diamond. Lots of Mylar though.

Everything works, no battery damage, needs a proper shop, rubbers, flippers.

Ramp has been broken so will need to replace and some Cliffys to keep it tidy.

One cab side faded as was next to a window.

Can't wait to get into it and properly join the club!

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I have a feeling I might get picky over this machine. I always start out with, "I'll just get it neat and tidy" and by the end it's, "I wonder if someone could airbrush the side art" (•‿•)

On closer inspection, no Diamond and playfield protector. That's going to be tricky...

Smasharoo in the pic...

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Noted on the above gents, thank you for those pictures.

Started to take her to bits... I think I'll make a quick restore log, but....

Silver marks didn't come up easily with foam cleaner... Haven't seen that before and there is a little insight into my full field protector over mylar inserts situation (•‿•)

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Good news on the batteries.

NVRAM...How did it go? Pretty tricky one that with desoldering and tiny traces? Its on my list but many warnings!

Playfield, I constantly have this page open https://www.buthamburg.de/en/playfields/50002-the-machine-bop-repro-playfield

I have the gear (Hakko solder sucker) the issue I have is that I haven't done 'enough' boards to feel confident. Always the way..

I will do some more work on mashed up boards I have and give it a go. Good to know its not like something from an Indiana Jones movie tho, some threads can be alarming

Could I ask other owners a question please?

Backbox is light blue on mine, looks original, art appears to be painted/screen printed on. The cab sides are purple and look more like decals, I noticed the tear in the pic below when it arrived.

Is it standard to have backbox painted and sides decal? Any ideas?

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That was just the info I was looking for. As the owner claims he had it from new, it seems strange that this information would be left out.. It definately looks like decals. The mor I dig, the more I just want to really go for this! MUST RESIST.. The back box has a beautiful patina on the blue, maybe I do the sides, but leave the back box and clear it. Needs more thought for sure.

I agree. Here is my plan, I will keep playing my Hurricane, if I get any more random resets, (I've tried everything up to replacing parts) then I'll hit the Hurricane with a power board replacement job! By the time I get to the BoP boards, I'll be on target!

Thanks for the encouragement..

Thanks for the information gentlemen. Exactly what I was trying to figure out.

It seems a shame to decal, but it's very washed out on the sides, backbox just seems different, no under vinyl.

I've ordered a new playfield from Peter, so I'm pretty much all in now. Black decals for back and cabinet I think, but it's a tough tough call.

Thank you for the tips! I spoke to Peter an hour ago, he is going to do an extra coat tomorrow and so I'll be leaving it a little while before doing the swap over.

I've stripped it back on the top now. I'm going to leave the underside until I'm ready and I'll take off, clean and swap.

I need to check if the faces are sun damaged next and do some comparison.

Thanks for the pics. I've taken loads but no such thing as too many.

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Could this be a duff /shorted transistor?

Sorry. "Duff", meaning "no good." I assume that would mean a whole row or column would be effected.. Just guessing, I really ought not to give anyone advice! I'm a novice..

If I need to leave it for months (all good advice), I think I'll clean it, fix it all up and put it all back on the playfield as a Dry run. Nothing gets me understanding the machine like a good tear down!

I've got to remove a Mylar field protector that's bubbled to fugg. At least I'll have a winter project and O can get playing some BoP.

I can also get the cabinet stripped and decal'd.

Long game!

I'm repopulating the #bop playfield.

Is it really the case the skill shot shooter rubber wheels are just loose on those metal rods?

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I noticed about 20 pages back in the thread, there was chat of finding replacements in other colours. Did that ever happen? Just curious.

cleaned with GooGone

Oh, does anyone know if the arm that fires the ball after skill shot is meant to have a rubber or cover of some sort on it?

does the metal piece need a rubber or is it a metal on metal ball situation.

Rob

IMG_20201220_175456 (resized).jpgThanks for the replies.

I've cleaned the rubbers and reinstalled.

I've spent two weeks working out how to manufacture new face ball guides.

I tried rubber molds and resin, but need pressure kit and other bits that I'm not really keen to purchase.

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I've used my CNC and acrylic and got some great results. Better than the old yellow nasty guides and they are a direct replacement for the old ones, unscrew old, screw in the new ones!

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Emotional two weeks tho!

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Hey all

Happy to make up some extra sets. Send me a PM if you are interested, they will be about $30 for a set of 12 plus P&P, but I might be able to get that price down if I have a few sets.

Hope that sounds reasonable!

Got inside BoPs head this evening. Very mucky.

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Haven't got an after pic, will get one tomorrow, but it runs smoother now, BUT it doesn't want to turn by hand when the little motor is attached.

Very strange, as the motor runs free on its own.

Bit of tweaking, any advice from anyone that's been in the head of BoP much appreciated

Thank you for confirming that! Both wires are not soldered onto the motor, does anyone know if polarity matters for the motor?

If it's a brushless DC motor, I guess the direction is controlled by switching polarity.

I'll need to find schematics or just wolire it up and test I guess.

I'll wire it up tonight. I'm sure it will just run it the other way, but I need to get it right way around now, so it goes the right way when it's playing!

I'll go and give it a go.

Covid 2.0 and Brexit now plaguing my new playfield arrival from Peter But still, no rush, it's Christmas.

Thanks regarding the ball guides. Think I'm there now! This one now needs it's holes, the laser marks them and I cut them on the drill press.

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Bit of fettling this evening. Her head moves again! I don't think you'd say she was quiet!

Slight hesitation in her movement perhaps?

Bit of a closer inspection of the CPU board on The Bride, as I've burned an L-8 ROM, to see how it goes.

You have to jumper to allow you to use the 2Mb chip instead of the 1Mb EPROM and I had thought you would go W1 to W1 and follow the little white line. But mine looks to have W1 jumper up top and W2 down bottom.

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That lower W1 hole looks a bit dicey too!

Thanks for coming bad Rob, appreciate it. It doesn't really support the one owner from new, HUO for last 30 year, story. Haha. The seller didn't appear to have any pinball knowledge at all, after 30 years of ownership!

I don't know why someone would have messed with the jumper, it's got a 1Mb chip in there with L3 on it. Looks like it was pulled out with a winch!

There is a little continuity on the solder side of the hole, so I'm going to need to stitch it to get it working for the jumper. Fingers crossed!

I've got nvram knocking around, but it's 62256 in this BoP. So I'll need to remove w3 and pop in r92

All of which, terrifies me! Ha

Good news that those diffusers will be repro'd. Mines fine but brittle as... Wont be long before it breaks I am sure.

Can any fellow BOP owners help me out.

I am putting mine back together (took a million pics, but not this one it seems)

The mini playfield, mine seems to slope down to the bottom left, if I screw down the front left screw into the metal post.

Its almost like the post I have their is 1/4" too short. But all the mental shorter posts seem to be the same length.

Anyone got a pic of theirs? Maybe it's meant to slope down to the left from the front or maybe I'm putting it back together wrong.

Lovely job!

I'm looking at Pinduino for helmet and shuttle ramp, but living in the UK it means I have to sell a kidney to pay for delivery.

I'd be happy just to get a few of the boards to play with.

I notice there is a chap in Sweden that does a Helmet replacement board. But not sure he still makes them, have sent a PM.

Have incandescent bulbs in helmet at the moment, but would like to move to purple LEDs at some point.

Big update today, had a great morning in the Pinshed!

@cometpinball delivery of post LEDs, trough LEDs, flipper button LEDs.

Fitted the electricity thingie mod. Went on the left to fill up that side a little.

I'm using an Afterglow board to ensure those LEDs glow rather than pinging on/off!

Flippers with LEDs tomorrow, LEDs rings into those jets and some spots.

Need to get the backbox LEDs right, not happy with that yet.

The launch skill shot, I never ever get anything other than 50 and 75. I've rebuilt the shooter, it's slick. Maybe the spring isn't right? Anyone else get bigger numbers on the "skill shot"

Few piccies attached.

Helmet LEDs needed...

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Have you got a link to a post about it, so I can ha e a read?

Reflow is usually solder reflowing on the edge connectors and what have you.

Send a link, let's have a read..

I think that covers oven baked relays..

Any thoughts on the shooter and skill shot BoP owners?

Never gets over 50k and 75k and the entire thing has been rebuilt. I guess it's spring or I need to align the ramp to hit less of the first black ring?

I'll try a new spring. It's got no colour on the current one.

I pulled up on the wireframe this evening, definitely better!

On mine, the wire frame presses quite hard onto the first rubber.

Thanks for the suggest @mancave, I cleaned them all down yup. They all lose and clean.

Had some bigger shots after a bit of faffing this evening

NEED to get both balls in multiball up that Shuttle Ramp! It's driving me crazy.

Thanks for all suggestions all!

Good news!

Have you had the head apart? Face off?

Could they be in wrong order? I had this with mine, I had them wrong way round so calibration didn't work.

Also, mine used to stick because the lamps inside the eyes would catch inside on the face panels too. Had to change those

I can take some pictures here if it helps?

I was going to suggest the same as Boslaw

Test with a ball and physically move the switches further out so they get a definite switch on with a ball.

Maybe they dont always get fully engaged by the ball?

Bend the wire out in the switch if needed?

So a few things of note I guess.

The first face goes on the side with the big scoop out of the top square panel.

Then to left is eyes.

Mouth, eyes and first full face all have a wide slot pressed into the top square panel. For the switch to roll into.

Make sure the switch is pushed up enough to engage. It's normally open when it's in one of the three slots and it closes as the head turns.

The switch is pressed ON as the head turns and is off when it drops into place on a face. With the exception of the very last face, which has no slot on the top holding plate.

Face 1 mouth, has slot
Face 2 eyes has slot
Face 3 face has slot
Face 4 face does not have a slot for the switch to drop into.

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That's how it calibrates, by knowing where those 3 slots are as marked in red.

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Good that it's fixed tho! Maybe that switch wasn't quite engaging enough..

Not sure I understand where you mean. Got a pic?

izzy apologies, I didn't take this piece off mine when I reconditioned the gear box.