I'm a 2.0 guy but I PROMISE, I'll keep my comments limited to 1.0 issues. Thanks for creating the thread! Oh, I was friends with Python. That was cool!

Edit: I also have a Diamond Plate Playfield and the colors of my big and small wheel inserts are different. I have 3 sets of yellow - it kinda looks like a nuclear hazard symbol.

My game recently got a lot of play at a local show so I'm going to do a mini-shop on it when I can. I originally had removed all of the parts from it and replaced a few plastics when I got it. I have since purchased the CPR plastics set and I was thinking of doing that as well. I put new incandescents in everyplace but the pops since they are more difficult to change and LEDs will avoid cap burn. I did put LED Star Post lights that flash when the sligshots fire. This mod works with any BOP and I think it makes it look more mechanical (like sparks flying when the slings are hit). I had Python sign my backglass and I got John Trudeau to sign it as well. I sold my collection last year and this was one of the 4 games I kept. I'm a huge fan of this title in any incarnation!

I did mine myself with hobby paint and I sealed it with super glue and wet sanded it in. Not perfect but people who have played it say that it's one of the nicest they've played. I wouldn't go that far but it's not bad. You can sorta see the results in my restoration thread (pre-2.0) here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/another-bride-gets-the-works-eventually-will-be-a-bop-20-fingers-crossed

Actually, you could do this with WPC by adding a DMD controller BUT you would have to know how to program the WPC system. The hardware is capable, but the code wouldn't know how to address it. You could definitely do it with a P-ROC and a PC (http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/index.php/products/p-roc) but you would be starting over on everything or you could use an emulated version and try to mod that somehow.

Another Idea would be to do something like ColorDMD does and interpret what is going to the screen and substitute your own stuff. You would need some sort of processor to do the interpretation and generate a new screen.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/another-bride-gets-the-works-eventually-will-be-a-bop-20-fingers-crossed
Post #30

First check the mechanical part of the ball eject - are the wires soldered on the coil? Then check for power to the coil; the coil always has power. You should see 20 to 75 volts on both sides of the coil.

Find out which transistor controls the coil and short the metal tab on the transistor to ground and the coil should fire. After that, it's a little more complicated but we can help...

I'd like to see this on the game but I'm guessing I wouldn't like it. I upvoted your post though - thinking outside the box!

Yes, you need to re-jumper your board for the larger EPROM chip size. http://www.thatpinballplace.com/documents/rejumpering_wpc_cpu.htm

I personally might have this much money in my BOP 2.0 but when did BOP become an over $8K game?

ebay.com link: Williams The Machine Bride of Pinbot Pinball Rotisserie Restoration

http://www.starship-fantasy.com/ramps/The-Machine-Bride-of-Pinbot-Left-Ramp

(Always go to the source first).

I know I have more than $6k in my BOP 2.0 and it is in pieces right now. I didn't spend that because I intend to profit; actually, I know I'd never see a lot of that money again if i HAD to sell it. It's a hobby and it costs to have things your way. And we spend it because it is a hobby. As nice as the eBay game is, I think it's still a $4500 game tops. Regardless on what it cost to restore or the time it took.

And you know what? I'd be happy getting my money out of it but I'm anticipating it not happening. I really can't wait to finish it though. It's soooo close and that Mike Chestnut chrome is soooo shiny!

I'm currently doing BOP playfield stuff like a new plastics set, head motor, and a cleaning without removing the guides. It had a full cleaning 2 years ago. The playfield might be done this week and I'll be ready to get it back in the new cabinet.

We're trying to come up with the origin of this plastic. Python was selling this on paper at shows. As far as we knew, there was never a plastic of it made. We wonder if the part number was added to make it look official. If anyone knows the history of this plastic, please PM me.

The caps are for spark suppression so the value can vary.

I'm not sure why it was in the original game, but it's a key callout in 2.0. There's also a "Move your Shuttle" mode (like move your car in CFTBL). I'll ask John Trudeau.

John Trudeau just told me (over Instant Messenger) that Python was simply using it to indicate that it was a project in space. So there you are.

LED Recommendation - Use Incandescent bulbs. If you do use LEDs, use white for GI and colors that match for inserts only. You asked...

This has a LOT to do with how close the contacts are as well. The switch blades should be as flat as possible and the activators replaced because they can wear over time in the spoon. My friends comment all the time that my pop bumpers are too sensitive. I like them that way!

I know that the 2.0 upgrade is expensive but I have to say, it's really like a whole new game. Mine is, like a whole new game since the re-decal and translite additions. I have to love both though, Python was a friend and BOP meant a lot to him.