I've been maintaining a BOP at work for the better part of a year now... When we first acquired it; I stripped the top of the PF and cleaned the crap out of it. It's a players condition import with a lots of wear.

Anyway; when I did the PF rebuild; it got all new rubbers and lamps.
CPU board was rebuilt due to battery acid damage back in Aug; audit shows over 2500 plays.

I don't think BOP has a GI power save; so the machine has be "on" 24/7 since it went back into service in Aug. I've gone thru two sets of slingshot #47 bulbs. I'm thinking of replacing the GI with LEDs from Comet Pinball just to keep from having to replace those bulbs regularly. I'm thinking Natural White 2SMD types; but am open to suggestions. Has anyone documented a GI-only kit for BOP?

Thats awesome! Thanks. Just crimped j120 and the logic 9vac psu because of over heating. Replaced microswitch under shuttle ramp.

look up Retr0bright on google.
It's more than just peroxide.

If you can get measurements; ie wheel diameter, hub diameter, and thickness... something may be close in McMaster 's catalog.
Works machine is being played regularly ... so I can't pull the assembles here.

I don't think there is much of a market for Titan to do it... with his other products; he build generic rubber which can be used on any machine. These rubber skillshot donuts aren't used on any machine but BOP.

I wish work would fund one of these... but alas; I don't think they'd be willing to foot the bill.
Also; I'm not sure I'd want to do the PF swap. :/

Meh. I've done a PF swap for ST_:MU... its not that hard. I just don't want to do it for free on someone else's machine.

The BOP at work has developed laryngitis with no sound coming out of speakers. This just randomly happened with no apparent cause. Do hear occational pops/clicks which would seem to indicate good AMPs.
Went over the piniwiki recommendations in addition to checking fuses and voltages.
both -12 and +12 audio amps seems to have good voltages.
+5 is a little low at 4.8VDC; but not sure that is a cause.
Speakers do not have opens.
Scope checks at caps to the amp stages seems to show no audio input.
8MHz oscillator to SND MPU is operating at W8. Reset to MPU is high.
3.58MHz oscillator which feeds U10 (YM2151) does not appear to be oscillating (checked with portable scope).

Plan to go to Frys tomorrow and get a replacement U22 (74LS04) and replace. That should fix it.

http://www.bostonpinball.biz/eBay052018.htm
Machine: Bride of Pinbot, The
2,510

I've been neglecting the BOP at work. Haven't checked on her in 3 or more months.
On Friday; I went down there to play her... still functional; but very dark.
None of the helmet lights were working... and I'm pretty sure at least one string of GI was out.

The manual still lacks key information I needed - but couldn't specificially pinpoint what I was looking for. Maybe it was how the Chaser board hooks to the helmet and cpu boards.

I did some troubleshooting; and the chaser board is getting 12V and the regulator is outputting 5V...
Fuses were good via ohm check.
So I'm more inclined to believe that the GI transistors are out. I think Q18 drives the helmet "hot" side - correct? Q18 is one of the heatsinked jobs in the lower left hand corner of the PDB.
I'm not sure why the GI has developed a problem or for how long... maybe just old age.

Anyone have any specific suggestions to check? I really don't want to pull that PDB again... as it's always a chore. That said; I'm pretty sure I'm going to have no choice.

Flipper switch arcing?
This normal on BOP?

Got a report from a fellow employee that the "right flipper" was sticky a few weeks ago.
I went in today to debug and couldn't reproduce.

The machine has been arcing at the flipper button switches since I initally did work on it. I'm curious if the arcing is normal?!

Yes, there are caps on the switches

I officially leave the club as of the 31st of March.
I no longer maintain or have access to the BOP at work given they severed me from the company.