(Topic ID: 132740)

BOP Club...non 2.0

By MustangPaul

8 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 2,684 posts
  • 245 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 46 days ago by ralphs007
  • Topic is favorited by 118 Pinsiders

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Scoot.
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#1709 4 years ago
Quoted from Marvin:

you're missing the best part of the cabinet, the purple. God the black looks terrible. I don't get why people kill the great art on this game it that.

I respectfully disagree. The purple does look good but not everyone is into purple. I think the black looks classic and especially looks great on the cabinet above. Nice work! I am not a purest and i think it's great when people put their own personality into their games.

#1726 4 years ago

Guess which pin was just added to my lineup?

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#1731 4 years ago

My machine just said happy birthday Silvie and played a small tune. Cool...

2 weeks later
#1739 4 years ago

The music is much louder than the voices on the bop I have. So much so I think there may be an issue. Everything sounds as it should, but the voices are very soft. I have reseated the sound roms with no change. Am I looking at replacing resistors on the sound board?

Also I have started to restore the pin and have finished the head. I never realized how purple the side art is.

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#1744 4 years ago
Quoted from Bublehead:

There have been discussions on wether originals were silkscreened on the cabinets, or silkscreened on a substrate and applied to the cabinet. Not sure how a silkscreened cabinet gets wrinkles around the legs without there being a sticker or decal involved, but nobody was supplying aftermarket decals in ‘93 when I bought her, and there are wrinkles on my cabinet at the legs. Not sure when WMS/Bally went to decals but mine is a two owner original, my operator friend who bought it NIB, and me, who bought it from him, neither of us have done anything to the cabinet. I really wish we could find somebody who could clear up the confusion on original Bride cabinet art.

I can’t help you with your question but the head on my pin was definitely silkscreened directly onto wood, and the bottom cabinet is a decal. My head also looked blue/gray when I got it but as I started to sand it down, bright purple was underneath.

Marvin, I don’t know where the decals came from since it came with the pin I bought, but it also came with a new replacement playfield and the original owner mentioned Germany so who knows?

#1747 4 years ago
Quoted from Marvin:

The cabs were directly screened. There was a heat pressed white substrate bonded to the wood. The screening too place on that. Over time leg movement would deform that layer.
There's pics somewhere but I'd have to find them.havent found the pics, but here's the reference.
http://www.flippers.be/pinball_cabinets.html

So can I just sand down the cabinet or will I need a heat gun and scrape he layer off?

#1751 4 years ago
Quoted from Marvin:

OK I thought the pic with art was after putting decals in after sanding off the existing art. That's why I was asking. As shown above that cab was not a decal but a screened piece. The german playfield is only a few years old. They are nice but can get some cracking on the inserts. It does not affect play, but it can be seen.

Sorry, I didn’t make it clear. Along with the game I purchased came a set of decals and a playfield. The person I bought it from was going to restore it but had other projects going on so I now have it. So the head restored does have the new decals on it. When I was sanding the head down, I noticed the purple showing under the gray.

Quoted from Mancave:

Do you intend to repaint the cab before applying the new decals? If so i would use a heat gun and scrape off the white vinyl layer back to bare wood (may need to use an orange based cleaner to remove the residue also) Then you can patch up any holes if needed and get a nice smooth finish before applying the decals.

I am going to repaint the cabinet inside and out, after I repair all the damage first of course. This will be the first time applying decals to a cabinet so I want to do the best job I can. The head decals went on well so I’m hoping for the best.

1 week later
#1753 4 years ago

Well it happened. I was playing last night with some friends and I made it to the billionaires club and the game did a reset. I remember reading about this somewhere with the L7 game rom that I have. I would like to see about going to L8 for the fix but want to know opinions if it is worth it. If I do want to go to L8, where can I get one?

1 week later
#1754 4 years ago
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2 weeks later
#1756 4 years ago

If anyone needs a helmet let me know. This one has no cracks and is in great shape. It has a blemish on the right side which will not come off.

$40 plus shipping.

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1 month later
#1767 4 years ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

Does anyone’s BoP ball sometime have trouble ejecting from the kick out into the shooter lane when one ball is locked in the optics faze. Seems like mine bounces off the side of the cabinet and goes right back in the eject hole. Takes a few tries sometimes to get it out. Noticed same thing on one at a bar so it must be something common. Is there any fix to this? It’s not really “broken” but is minorly annoying

I bent my top guide towards the front slightly and it fixed the problem for me.

4 months later
#1819 4 years ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

I’m gonna have to replace switch 63 (left eye). I opened the head and it just looks like a blast to get to. I’ve never had to replace a switch and while I know it’s probably a dumb question but how do I get the old one off? I know exactly what I need to do to get the new one in but I’ve never removed one. Cut the wire right below the solder? Something else?

It's pretty straightforward to do. To make things easier for me I add solder to the metal tabs first before soldering the wires on to make it easier. Nip the wires as close to the switch and use flux paste on the exposed wires to help the solder flow. Put the switch arm on after the switch is mounted. Make sure the switch arm is not bent too aggressively or when the face rotates, it will rip the switch arm off. That's about all I can think of.

#1821 4 years ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

Lol that’s what’s happened to the last one, when I got the game it was missing the actuator all together. I acquired a left eye actuator I found when I went to put on the new actuator the switch wasn’t making contact when the ball was on it. As a quick fix I moved the actuator up to the second post on the microswitch which raised it enough to consistently work with the ball. Eventually though the slight contact it had with the eyeball while rotating made the post on that spot wear out too. So now I’m gonna pull it and replace the right way. Is there an easy way to get at the screws that attach the microswitch in there as it sits facing towards switch 64 right eye. My small screwdriver can’t even fit. Does the piece that mounts to the metal bracket come off to then pull up to get easier access to the mounted microswitch? I can probably figure that out once I need to if you all don’t know what I’m talking about.

I don't remember it being difficult to change the switch, but I can't remember how I did it.

1 month later
#1868 4 years ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

I just ordered up some new bits for my Bride. I grabbed some purple dome flasher covers for the head, and it appears they are a hair larger than the originals and the head won't fit with them installed. They're bumping into the ramps. I was just wondering if anyone else had this problem and if so how did you remedy it. I was planning on just shaving the ramp lip down some.

I would bet you are installing them wrong. I first tried to install the domes on the outside by mistake and had the same issue you seem to have. The domes go through the helmet and secured. If you attach them on the outside then they will not fit. If not, I would add some spacers or washers inside where they attach with the screws. I would not try to trim the ramps.
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4 weeks later
#1893 3 years ago
Quoted from 85Txaggie:

This one is pretty close. https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-11120
Looks like you have to move the hole in a little. Slotted side is probably okay as is. Be forewarned. Stainless will be hard to drill.
[quoted image]

Use a dremel and slot it out like it is on the right side. Put a washer over it if you have to.

1 month later
#1905 3 years ago
Quoted from gipinball:

Just joined the club. Great game!
Question; On the speaker panel,do the 4 lights corresponding to the 4 faces stay lit all the time?
Thanks

They are not interactive. They are lit all the time. Congrats on your acquisition.

1 month later
#1918 3 years ago

A friend of mine and his son, came over today to play some pinball. The teenager who had never played pinball in his life, came over to me after playing every one and said, "that Bride of Pinbot plays tight!"

I felt like a proud papa.

#1921 3 years ago
Quoted from tfduda:

I messed up in the previous post—the manual says red on eye bulbs not mouth (see below).
Does anyone have ideas about what if any color covers were used on the mouth bulb and the bulb on upper right of helmet? I assume that they had nothing given that there is no info on covers listed in manual for these bulbs (like there are for the eyes).
[quoted image]

I specifically remember when playing this machine out in the wild 28 years ago that the light up by the helmet was clear with no color condom.

6 months later
#2114 3 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

I currently have L-7 in mine at the moment. If I recall correctly you really want at least version L-6 since that was supposed to have updates for the rotating head and supposedly had more forgiving timing. The earlier versions were a bit tight on timing and if the head was running a bit slow for any reason it would fail. Originally got my BOP when Williams was still in business and exchanged some e-mails with them about it and they told me about that fix. If I can find that message I'll have to post it. I know after running the newer code I've never seen errors with that.

Even the Pinball Arcade version on my Xbox sound cuts off when a ball is locked at the end of a game.

1 week later
#2134 3 years ago
Quoted from jjga:

Is anyone using Titan rubber on their BoP? If so, what small rings are you using on the elevated mini playfield around the plastic post?

I use Titans on all my pins. You want the 3/8 od.

https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=52

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11 months later
#2225 2 years ago

How bad do you have to be to register a credit dot from a head switch? Apparently this bad. Please let me have one good game...

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1 month later
#2272 2 years ago
Quoted from TimO:

I just upgraded to 2.0 and that speaker practically doubles as a shaker motor.

Thinking about upgrading to 2.0. Where are people finding kits?

3 weeks later
#2320 2 years ago

Happy Birthday Michelle Eddie, says my BOP today.

3 months later
#2357 1 year ago
Quoted from mollyspub:

It’s a ball catch pan. Check out Cliffy for a replacement.

Ok, I am a little confused by the catch pan. If the ball did somehow fall into that catch pan, why wouldn't you want it to fall into the cabinet instead? If not you would have to collect it by removing the pan, correct?

1 month later
#2416 1 year ago
Quoted from HydrogenHuman:

I've been researching potential mods for my BoP to really get it looking nice, and I was wondering what mods are highly recommended for BoP? I like the shuttle mod and pinduino a lot, to name a couple.

The pinduino mod was a must for me. The ramp chase lights look so good while playing and the light strips that light up the face looks so much better than the dark hole it used to be. I also got a $5 space shuttle and stuck it on the ramp entrance with double sided foam tape. I am a fan of mirror blades, Titan rubbers, Evo Britecaps pop bumpers, and a few other small additions. 20220713_203829 (resized).jpg20220713_203829 (resized).jpg

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1 week later
#2438 1 year ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Personally I prefer the clear original style Williams bats for BoP.
[quoted image]

Wait, these were the original bop bats? I remember playing BOP when it first came out but don't remember the bats being like that.

#2446 1 year ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

The Buthambug playfields are the best around. Get that if you can afford it. No need to put a protector on it.

I agree, after about 500 plays on mine, there is not one dimple or mark. They don't get any better. If you can, get one.

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2 months later
#2492 1 year ago

I have the most perfect shooting BOP except for the plunger skill shot. When I full plunge, the ball will rattle around half way and drop down. A half plunge gives me less and a light plunge gives me about the same. It seems I can't get over 100k no matter how different I plunge. I have completely cleaned the plunger, rubber wheels, and wire guide. The plunger is aligned dead center, and I even tried a stronger spring with no luck. Not sure what I need to do to get the ball to go all the way down the wire guide. Any suggestions? 20221016_171021 (resized).jpg20221016_171021 (resized).jpg
No, there is no purple lighting in my BOP. It's the topper reflecting off the playfield.

7 months later
#2591 9 months ago
Quoted from pencilneck:

First cabinet decal installed and trimmed out, happy with my results and stress levels back to normal since everything lined up.
[quoted image]

What am I looking at here? It appears that you have inserts behind the decals?

2 months later
#2629 7 months ago
Quoted from KJS:

I tried Scarlett, ex machina and Alita images but none really worked so this is an ai generated woman robot face apparently! Have to play around with the lighting some more. You could do all four faces too. Easy install, fiddly construction with the small guides but not too bad. Total cost for this face was 40aud.

Could you take a pic of the original artwork and then have ai make it into a realistic image? I'm sure I have seen that somewhere.

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