Redondo Beach, CA
What is a good replacement speaker for the bottom cabinet? I'm not lookup for anything fancy, just something that sounds good that will drop in without modifications. My old one actually sounds good but looks awful.
(Topic ID: 132740)
Linked Games
Machine: Bride of Pinbot, The
Williams, 1991
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Quoted from dscapo:The one I pulled out was 8 ohm 20W though
Does it drop in without a bracket?
I need a new receiver. The old one has a lot of miles on it. Does anyone know if the stainless no spring one at Mantis Pinball will work for BoP? It looks close.
1 week later
Quoted from pinballizfun:catch pan under the head is unobtainable if it is missing, which is way more common than you would think. skill shot rubbers aren't available but really should never go bad, but if you wanted new ones forget it.
Mantis makes that now. No longer an issue.
Quoted from mollyspub:You mean cliffy
Yeah - you’re right. I knew I saw it somewhere. Seems more or a Mantis thing but I’m glad somebody reproduced it. They both make great products.
2 weeks later
On my recent restore I upgraded my speakers. I have done the pre-configured stuff from a couple of the known suppliers in the past and really thought I could do the same thing for less. To be honest the recordings aren't that great and making them louder isn't really all that impressive. This will work for all WPC Alpha Numeric games and most of the System 11 stuff. It is very factory since it utilizes the existing crossover and only runs $60.
You need 2 of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00K3QUBZU
And 1 of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002ZPRHY
They drop right in and sound great compared to the OEM speakers.
20220315_174853 (resized).jpg20220324_192254 (resized).jpg
Quoted from oradke:Whoa - looks hella clean! Well done.
Thanks. For those considering a speaker upgrade. Don't be afraid to try this. You won't be disappointed.
1 month later
Quoted from WesleyB:Figured I would ask this here since I got zero response on its own topic.
I have had a few lingering sound issues on my BoP and one of them is still sticking around after the recap. I had an issue where the sound (music and speech) would start out very soft then gradually get louder (Volume at 8 bars but the sound would start out sounding at 2). I figured this was just old/tired caps and I took the board out and replaced all of the electrolytic caps. This did solve that problem and I tested the pulled caps and 75% were at 1/2 their rated capacity with the other 25% being around 1/4. Now, instead of the volume going up to normal as the machine warms up (the machine starts at normal volume), I get distortion about 30 -60 seconds after powering up and starting a game. I have looked around on the forums and on pinwiki and cannot find a really good answer for this specific issue. The highs and the speech sound fine but the low end just gets really distorted. No popping or screeching noises and I cannot find any glaring issues on the board itself like cracked joints. I replaced all of the caps with the exception of the TANT caps. Just looking for somewhere to begin this wonderful journey.
I know you mentioned you tested the caps you removed (I always do that too) but did you test the new ones going in? Odds are something is wrong with the items you worked on. Could be a bad cap or a bad solder joint. I would check everything over again and maybe reflow the solder if the caps check out. Are you using lead solder? You should be. It has a lower melting point and it flows better.
3 weeks later
Quoted from HydrogenHuman:Speaking of sound, I encountered an intermittent issue where the sound on my BoP would suddenly lower in volume, or even cut off. But after playing a game for maybe 5-10 seconds the sound came back.
Is that due to certain components in the sound board wearing out?
That is probably one of two things. Your capacitors are failing on your sound card and need replaced or your header pins on the sound card have bad solder joints.
3 weeks later
Quoted from AlexRogan84:I’m getting a Bride of Pinbot soon and while it is working well, I did notice that the metal box that seems to be a protector cover thing for underneath the rotating head assembly, is missing. I can see where it probably was screwed in but maybe got removed for maintenance and then never reinstalled.
Can you buy these as a replacement? Part number?
Are they crucial to protect against electrical shorts or some other reason?
Yes, Cliffy has them but I'm not sure if he is planning to make them again. I thought the quantity available was limited. I would snag one as soon as possible.
Quoted from TheClownpuncher:Got a quick lighting question for you experts on here. On my machine, once side of the helmet is out of synch/different light pattern for the first few minutes (15 or so) the game is on. It then seems to synch up after everything is "warmed up".
I'm assuming it's something on the light board the helmet is connected to. The connectors seem fine and I don't notice anything completely out of the ordinary but beyond that, I'm not sure where to look. Do I just replace the capacitors on the board or could it be something else?
Thanks in advance.
I would replace the capacitors, reflow the solder on the headers and check the resistors to see it they still are in specifications. The values are listed in the manual.
Quoted from AlexRogan84:Also, has anyone on here before put together a nice GI bulb map? Like a photo of the game with bulb location circled? Same for the playfield and backbox bulbs too. I have seen that for a few different games so wondered if it had already been done for Bride? My game is still all incandescent and I'll be changing it to LED. So that I CAN SEE!! lol[quoted image]
All GI, yellow and orange are Comet Sunlight SMD2. Red, blue, green and purple are SMD2 actual color. The helmet is cool white SMDs. Don't forget to do blue eyes and red lips on both the faces and translite.
Quoted from damadczar:I can't tell, is the GI frosted or clear? I think it's frosted. I agree that bride should be at minimum sunlight for GI, if not warmer. I'm likely going to do Comet Warm SMD2 tbh.
Frosted on GI.
Quoted from AlexRogan84:I realized on my game that there is no post right below (beside) that 2-bank of standup targets on the right side. Those are the twin green 5k points ones. I have the small hole in the playfield where something needs to go but not entirely sure what that is.
I though it might be another translucent blue plastic star post but then saw some pics of other machines and it looks like it could be a single metal stud post that doesn’t have anything screwed into it on top, just the lone post with a small rubber ring on it.
Anyone know for sure and what the part number is? Thanks.
This is the correct post:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-3905
It is actually in the manual under that part number but associated with the wrong picture.
1 week later
Quoted from AlexRogan84:Here are some pics. I’ve looked back at the image gallery in this thread and see some others have this same issue. Just looking at the angle that right flasher dome is on. Like you can tell it is being pushed up slightly. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
The lenses of your helmet flasher bulbs seem to be sticking out too far. Looks like you might have an assembly problem. Here is the page from the manual that should help.
1D5E5B47-33D2-4C2B-86B1-ADB69E177AE5 (resized).jpeg 1 week later
Quoted from mollyspub:Definitely reuse them! Although CPR will tell you a different story.
Curious - why to do say reuse them? I see zero need for them since the aftermarket is thicker and made of a stronger material.
Quoted from pinballizfun:you have googly eyes, and the ball can fall through the hole if the face isn't sitting level.
Nope - it looks and plays perfect. CPR has made these for a while now. It is likely an early production problem was corrected.
Quoted from HydrogenHuman:I've been researching potential mods for my BoP to really get it looking nice, and I was wondering what mods are highly recommended for BoP? I like the shuttle mod and pinduino a lot, to name a couple.
The game is factory pretty on its own. I don’t really think it needs anything mod wise. The mirrored backglass is a nice upgrade as is good quality LEDs.
1 week later
Quoted from Marco1973:Hi.
My left flipper Is not functioning.
I restored the pinball completely(before It worked), maybe I made some wrong cable connection.
Could please someone take some pictures of the flipper area under the playfield please ?
Thx[quoted image][quoted image]
Looks wired backwards to me.
20220222_190615 (resized).jpgQuoted from Morydees:Interesting, I have some decisions to make. Appreciate the quick response.
Personally I prefer the clear original style Williams bats for BoP.
20220801_213353 (resized).jpgQuoted from Morydees:Those are great, assume the correct size? One of those with purple rubber to match my setup would be grand.
Yes, they are the correct size. The clear ones are hard to find in stock. It seems them are always the first color to sell out when they do a run of them. These guys have them in stock now.
https://cointaker.com/products/transparent-clear-flipper-bat-with-logo-20-10110-13
Quoted from Jmckune:I think he was saying original size/shape vs the Bally carrot flippers. BOP shipped with white flippers and red rubber
Correct. The originals were white with a part number of 20-10110-5. The clear ones are part number 20-10110-13. Same mold just different color. They look different because you can see the inside ribbing in the clear. That same ribbing isn’t visible in the white version. Both have the William W logo.
Quoted from EEE:My playfield is pretty worn outside of the factory mylared area, so I am looking at the options.
Have any of you installed a playfield protector?
Also, Are many of you awaiting a hardtop or the planned end of year second run of Buthamburg playfields?
The Buthambug playfields are the best around. Get that if you can afford it. No need to put a protector on it.
2 weeks later
Quoted from dscapo:new software seems to be super sensitive
What are you talking about? I'm confused.
2 weeks later
Quoted from AlexRogan84:Is it normal during gameplay for the GI bulbs to go into this obnoxious strobing mode? It happens when you lose one of the two balls and feels like she’s pissed at you and trying to make it harder for you to keep that last ball in play. It stops once you get it back up into either the lock or the small wheel spot. Basically somewhere it can be hung on to so the game can rotate the faces back to the starting point. It never used to do this when I first got the game. Only after I updated the ROMs. I had a P2 ROM somehow still in the game and went to L6. It’s very aggravating this strobing and wish to stop it before I have a fricking seizure or smash my fist through the game lol.
Mine does that too. It is a feature. 
1 week later
Quoted from BrewersArcade:LED questions...
Does BoP have any issues with LED flasher bulbs like in typical System 11 games? Also, are all the playfield bulbs the 555 wedge style? I was really surprised they didn't use the 44 style bases. Just brought my machine home last week. I have clean Titan rubbers enroute and LEDs for the backglass. I'm kind of dreading the playfield teardown...it looks like a pain to install GI LEDs and rubbers.
No LED flasher issues. Stick them in and they will work without modifying anything. The playfield is a mix of 44 and 555 sockets (bayonet / wedge). Most of the feature lights are 555 while most GI is 44 if memory serves. Notice I said most and not all.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Scoot:I have the most perfect shooting BOP except for the plunger skill shot. When I full plunge, the ball will rattle around half way and drop down. A half plunge gives me less and a light plunge gives me about the same. It seems I can't get over 100k no matter how different I plunge. I have completely cleaned the plunger, rubber wheels, and wire guide. The plunger is aligned dead center, and I even tried a stronger spring with no luck. Not sure what I need to do to get the ball to go all the way down the wire guide. Any suggestions? [quoted image]
No, there is no purple lighting in my BOP. It's the topper reflecting off the playfield.
Use your phone to make a slow-motion video of the shot. The ball is hitting something and losing momentum. Once you know what it is, it should be easy to sort out.
1 week later
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:Where can I download the LED ghosting patch fix?
I run my BOP on whatever the original code it shipped with and all incandescents. I’d like to switch it all over to LEDs. It’s the most popular game with my patrons!
I never saw any benefit from installing the “ghosting” patch. Before and after look the same to me. I would say installed the LEDs and re-evaluate. If there is still ghosting, install the OCD boards.
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