I made my own topic on this but am not getting much feedback nor do I know where to start. On my BOP, upon starting the game on Face 1, the helmet lights chase to off. On every other face, and on drains, the lights work as intended with their various patterns. The only one that seems to have trouble is face 1 on/off chase that is supposed to be continuous.

Does anyone’s BoP ball sometime have trouble ejecting from the kick out into the shooter lane when one ball is locked in the optics faze. Seems like mine bounces off the side of the cabinet and goes right back in the eject hole. Takes a few tries sometimes to get it out. Noticed same thing on one at a bar so it must be something common. Is there any fix to this? It’s not really “broken” but is minorly annoying

What’s ironic is after mentioning this. The “problem” seems to have gone away without doing anything.

It’s for multiplayer. If a ball is locked in place for player one, player 2 still needs access to 2 balls

I’m gonna have to replace switch 63 (left eye). I opened the head and it just looks like a blast to get to. I’ve never had to replace a switch and while I know it’s probably a dumb question but how do I get the old one off? I know exactly what I need to do to get the new one in but I’ve never removed one. Cut the wire right below the solder? Something else?

Lol that’s what’s happened to the last one, when I got the game it was missing the actuator all together. I acquired a left eye actuator I found when I went to put on the new actuator the switch wasn’t making contact when the ball was on it. As a quick fix I moved the actuator up to the second post on the microswitch which raised it enough to consistently work with the ball. Eventually though the slight contact it had with the eyeball while rotating made the post on that spot wear out too. So now I’m gonna pull it and replace the right way. Is there an easy way to get at the screws that attach the microswitch in there as it sits facing towards switch 64 right eye. My small screwdriver can’t even fit. Does the piece that mounts to the metal bracket come off to then pull up to get easier access to the mounted microswitch? I can probably figure that out once I need to if you all don’t know what I’m talking about.

Went to replace switch today and when I opened my package that was supposed to have a new switch in it. Got some kind of other part that definitely was not a switch. Contacted company and they are making it right, just have to wait a few days for it to get here. Also installed new ROM with hopes of fixing problem with helmet lights. They work perfect except for face 1 where they sort of just caterpillar to off instead of chasing. No dice there. Was inspecting helmet underside and it looked like maybe one of the solder joints was suspect but haven’t tried doing anything with it yet. Here’s the photos I took of underside. Maybe if more than one person looks they can tell me if they see the same thing I do or if I’m wrong. Specifically the purple side looks suspect to me on the third pin from the top.

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^ maybe he can make it into a 2.0 which loses literally any and all innuendo.

Me either. But now that he mentions the “human influx” she also says “I feel...strange” at the same moment that message is displayed. Lol

I’ve also had plenty of points on my game that looked like they had a good solder connection, just added a little anyways, and the affected area came back to life. My issues were mostly lighting related though. Finally got the “face 3” light on back box to work with just a dab
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In case anyone what was wondering what would happen if you wire the left eye microswitch backwards (white wire on rear post instead of front), upon initial inspection and test everything seems normal. Did some gameplay test just to see if I could leave as is, found out it caused the left loop to activate optics and pop locked ball down to the ball lock area. Once game realized it’s mistake it corrected to partial link. Needless to say I quickly undid the wire and moved to its correct spot and now I’m back to 100%

I was under the impression it found home via the switch contacting that back plate that’s in your picture. Face 4 does not have the indent I believe and after doing the face test the head rotates and cycles a few times to find home via the number of switch clicks. Don’t think it has to do with the white ring position.

Finally got all the issues with mine taken care of. Here is a before and after. A dramatic and positive improvement. Had to replace a few switches, clean, Resolve lighting issues, and fix broken parts. I think I saved this game from certain doom as the place it had been for the last 28 years was just recently torn down and judging by its previous maintenance or lack there of and the fact that it along with the other machines were only ever turned on if asked about , I would bet it would have been demolished with the rest of the place. Idk why a few extra pictures showed up but I can’t delete them

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Nope just my dad right after getting home from work wanting to take a look at it. It definitely gave me good knowledge on how to fix these things. Worst issue that annoyed me to death was the “Small Wheel” VUK, the rubber part of the plunger fell out of the metal part and I was wondering why the ball kept getting stuck there. Couldn’t find the part for it so the one and only hack on the machine? Super glued that vuk rubber piece back into the metal plunger hasn’t dared to fall out since.

Just got billionaires club for the first time! It was hard enough getting both balls up for the big wheel spin but once that heart lit up I thought for sure I was going to fumble the heartbeat shot!

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I can take a picture of mine, there’s only 1 spacer on each of the screws fairly long.
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Without looking appears to be about 1 inch long.

It flashes when the pinbot playfield is open.

Change the coil sleeve and clean the plunger. That’s what I did to stop mine from doing this.

You had it right the first time. Look how the micro switch is oriented in the photo. That’s the mouth switch with the red cover, the eyes had no cover. I upgraded to led so I just used a red lamp in mouth and white for the eyes

Edit: never mind on the switch orientation. That diagram isn’t 100% accurate. I can tell you when I got mine it had not been maintained and was basically untouched. It had a red cover on the mouth and nothing on the eyes.

I’ve got mine as red mouth, white eyes and white pinbot playfield light. That’s how it was presented in incandescent form to me so I kept it that way in LED form

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The wheel lights fully lighting alternating between big and small wheel is the correct lighting sequence for the ball prelaunch. Once the solenoid for the skill shot kick out fires is when they should change to the spinning pattern.

It’s been almost a year since I did it last time, but I had a pretty good game this morning! Reminds me why I had to have this game in the first place!

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You are missing the face shield. It’s a large piece that many brides are missing. Designed to catch balls in the event of a face malfunction or if the loop shot falls towards it it redirects it back into place

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I’m scared bride is becoming too easy. I still love the game but the first time I got billionaires club was almost a year before I repeated it. Now it’s a month since that and I was able to get my highest score yet via 2 Big wheel spins one for 50 million and the other for the billion. I figured out the trick to getting through the multiball easy.

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And it’s a shame because mine plays and shoots really really good. It’s fast and will bite you if you aren’t careful but once multiball starts, it’s steep enough and clean enough to where if you just hold the left flipper up it bounces the ball to the right flipper and you can make the ramp before the other ball gets all the way down.

Hmm not sure, the space looks about the same as mine. My bride could sure use a playfield swap but I’d definitely prefer it to play excellent than be a showpiece lol

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Oh I know it doesn’t “need” a playfield swap it was actually my first pin so it’s a little special for me. I do regularly wax it and for a bit it becomes way harder. The original owner that had it for the past 28 years did not take care of it. Ever. And told me so themself. As a result of that in combination with the fact that on this one, the lower playfield is not covered by Mylar except on the hearts. There is widespread planking. Thankfully the jets area did have Mylar and are in good condition.

I’ve read in at least a couple of cases that the Rottendog board doesn’t play well with the helmet lights, are your all’s still working?

You can try the warranty route. Although I’m not sure how far you’ll get with K as I’ve seen quite a few experiences with him recently.

Yes. Keep the original. As you can see the reproductions are no more reliable and in some cases worse. You likely have a failed triac if you’re having GI issues.

Transistor shorted.

Yes. A shorted Transistor would absolutely cause just one bumper to lock on. If they all shared the same one, they would all fire at the same time. I’m not certain if rottendog follows the same schematics as the original but on the original board the jet bumper transistors are Q58(Upper Left), Q54(Upper Right), and Q50(Lower). You can do this the dirty way by going into diode test and seeing if there is continuity to ground by touching the tab with one lead and the ground strap with the other. If you get a 0. It’s shorted. Or you could do it the right way which involves probing all 3 legs but that method is a little harder to explain.

That is your likely culprit even though it’s not 100%. It is as simple as desoldering and adding a new one. The transistor is the path to ground and if your bumper is locking on it has a permanent path to ground via the transistor. The proper way to test is by touching the three legs but even if one tests good it’s not always good. The fact that your other two are giving a non 0 number with the tab method is a pretty good indication that the transistor currently in that spot has degraded and likely failed.

Also if you haven’t done board work before it would not be a bad idea to find someone to help you with it. These boards are expensive and if you are worried about damaging it, it would be worth seeing if anyone in your area was more comfortable with doing it.

I haven’t checked but usually these bumper transistors are TIP120 which was replaced by TIP102. That other one sounds like it might be the pre-driver but it’s been a long while since I’ve had to look at the board on my bride.

Depending on how how much damage occurred to the circuit it is possible the diode needs changed too. Sometimes just the main transistor goes out and other times the driver pre driver and diode all get blown

The wire gate shouldn’t be able to move if you have the apron on.

Unless you’re picky the cliffy will negate the need for an entire new ramp. My shuttle ramp is broken pretty good and the cliffy has made it flawless. No damage over a year later

Here’s mine, the heartbeat wasn’t broken on mine but shuttle was. Cliffys really help!

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I would definitely hardtop mine if it was available. My bride has the worst playfield of any of my games. It’s probably very average overall but compared to the other ones I have looks pretty bad. Here’s pics of my Williams games. You can definitely tell a difference between the bride and others.

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It’s not a transistor. You have a short somewhere in the lamp matrix.

Mine didn’t move by hand either. It’s normal.

Getaway was the first game to use the guides instead of the hinge

Pretty bad lol. Mine is set up pretty brutal with outlines wide open and if you shoot into a post near that ramp you can count on it flying down the right outlane. I seem to be able to get to a big wheel spin almost every game which is sad. When I first got the game (my first) it seemed a lot harder but I guess I just know how it plays. She’s not gonna win any beauty contests with her planking but she plays smoother and better than other copies I’ve played. Here’s what it looked like when I got it vs now

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Two things I can think of, by chance is your gate installed backwards? The bottom the raises should be pointed towards the face. Other thing would be the shuttle ramp lower switch. Is it triggering when the ball is shot under it?

An easy way to tell during gameplay is if you hear a shuttle launch noise along with several flashers as the ball goes under the ramp entry switch. Or you go into the test menu find switch edge test and similarly roll ball under the ramp switch and see if the switch pops up on the display. I haven’t looked up there in a while to see if there is another switch in the helmet area closer to the gate or not but I’d imagine it would have to be the ramp entry switch due to the speed at which the ball travels

The catch pan is there in the event of a faulty switch which may cause the head to rotate with the balls inside of the head in which case they are dropped into the pan, once this happens, they roll over to the small wheel eject and come back up, without the pan, they drop into the cab. This doesn’t happen often and I’ve never had my pan used on my game

No, it rolls over to the “small wheel” eject and comes up from there

I didn’t map it but what I did was buy 2 25 packs of cool white 2SMD (one wedge/one bayonet) Then I color matched all insert colors, with yellow getting cool white and I color matched the skill shot stickers. I then put purple no ghost in the helmet. Very minimal flicker on only one pattern, otherwise no flicker. I believe L7 may have a flicker problem. With L7 you also do have to change the jumper for larger memory. I opted for L6 and was happy with it. Here is a pic of what I did

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Yes, L-6 does not need a jumper

I’m not sure where you’re talking about. Does yours have an extra bulb in the middle where the W is?

Ohhh that one. I just did white. All that bulb is for is to let you know if the Pinbot playfield is open. When flashing, balls will go through to Pinbot but when off, balls will go into the face cube

That’s normal. This game has two separate high score tables. You can have an excellent game and not make the billionaire club. That’s what the regular high score list is for. Without this, anyone who is skilled would just spam the big wheel when they got to that point and could put up a score so high, a more average player could not hope to get on the high score list.

I think he was saying original size/shape vs the Bally carrot flippers. BOP shipped with white flippers and red rubber

Setting “allow GI dimming” set to no

No problem! Only bad thing about it is you lose some of the awesome light show for metamorphosis where all of the lights shut off and then the heartbeat starts

All ramps have quick disconnects to pull them out of the playfield. The only thing you may run into depending on how the wires are attached to the ramp is that you find they run through a hole in the ramp to get to the flashers/switches. If that is the case, you will have to cut or desolder from current switch and then run the wire through new ramp and reattach.

No physical switch. But it is triggered as always closed from the coin door interface board