Quoted from pacman11:Anyone have any good looking scorecards or instructions cards? Thanks!
PM me
(Topic ID: 132740)
Linked Games
Machine: Bride of Pinbot, The
Williams, 1991
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Quoted from Mancave:Movement at the station....... getting excited to have the old girl back together [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I like those black assemblies. Good thinking!
Had some time last weekend to finish the head. I had to recreate 5 of the 8 corners (standard work on a complete overhaul), tumbled and cleaned all parts and spraypainted where needed. The head has been painted black with some semi-gloss and decals have been put on. I love the black decals!
BOPKK001 (resized).jpgBOPKK002 (resized).jpgBOPKK003 (resized).jpgQuoted from Marvin:So have I, multiple times, successfully.
me too, even on my Fire! this went very well (allthough I got lucky I guess). When removing the mylar it's best to use freeze spray. In my experience even the inserts are the most easy spots to remove the mylar because the mylar allready came loose from the insert.
Pics on my fire: http://www.flipperforum.be/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=7569
1 month later
Okay, started the work on my cab, I used the heatgun to remove the decals. Right side went so fast, like 10 to 15 minutes to remove the whole decal. The front decal and the left side was a whole different cup of tea, got me thinking that the right side wasn't the original decal. Right side wasn't faded as much as the left and front. But it turns out left and front has waaaaaay less glue recidu and that leftover glue was very easy to sand down. Another thing I noticed is the print that is left on the wood (see 3rd picture), this is very distinct and still visible after sanding. Can this be caused by UV light which is causing some kind of reaction of the glue and the wood on some level?
Anyway, I made a mistake when bondo-ing the front, can anyone find my mistake?
bop11 (resized).jpgbop12 (resized).jpgbop13 (resized).jpgbop14 (resized).jpgbop15 (resized).jpgQuoted from Bublehead:So true, seems they are worried they loose some kind of street cred if the game has a single scratch or (god forbid) a dimple...
For me part of the hobby is to restore my pins to a state that I like them. Afterwards I can enjoy playing them because I know they will never get as much play as when they were in the field. That keeps my restored game pristine so I can enjoy them so much longer. A restored game gives me more pleasure than a crapp looking game. This BOP was in fairly poor condition but I enjoyed playing it. Now after restoring it I will enjoy it more.
After all the years of collecting, restoring, repairing and playing I found that the following is my game:
- find a reasonable game for a reasonable price
- play it and decide if it fits my collection
- if not, sell it
- if so, start hoarding parts, ramps and plastics are mandatory
- restore the machine to MY standards
- add it to the collection and play it
So far I did this to my TZ, FH and now my BOP is getting the same treatment. Only BTTF has left after restoring.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Marvin:you're missing the best part of the cabinet, the purple. God the black looks terrible. I don't get why people kill the great art on this game it that.
Yeah, I can relate to your comment but personally I love the black.
The comparison is a bit crooked by the way. With that I mean: I never saw a decent purple cabinet so all purple ones i've seen are bad, faded, dented etc.
There are several reasons I've chosen black over purple:
- for me, black is more beatiful than purple
- black looks better next to my other WPC machines
- my playfield had gotten the blue treatment, black cabinet and head looks better with the playfield.
I understand when someone dislikes my choices but hey, it's my pinball machine.
I am curious on your comment for the technical aspect of my post?
Quoted from Marvin:The play field has "the blue treatment" what does that mean blue GI lights?? I hope not, colored GI is never a good choice unless its a programmed mode from the factory.
What do you mean my comment on the technical aspect? Are the decals applied well, looks like it, but if I see a Ferrari that someone has repainted snot green by the best painter in the world it would be a technically good paint job but an aesthetically terrible choice.
Read it back, some pics were attached.
Quoted from Marvin:The play field has "the blue treatment" what does that mean blue GI lights?? I hope not, colored GI is never a good choice unless its a programmed mode from the factory.
What do you mean my comment on the technical aspect? Are the decals applied well, looks like it, but if I see a Ferrari that someone has repainted snot green by the best painter in the world it would be a technically good paint job but an aesthetically terrible choice.
Ferrari painted snot green. Well, until that point I could relate to your comments but now you make a whole wrong comparison. First, a ferrari is a terrible car, second, if you manage to compare a purple/black BOP to a yellow-red-black/snot green car you're way off as far as I'm concerned.
Quoted from Elevatorman:Here is mine being worked on.[quoted image]
Very nice work sir.
Quoted from Scoot:Guess which pin was just added to my lineup?[quoted image]
Euhm, Funhouse?
Added the head and coindoor last weekend and fired it up for the first time.
GI doesn't work and when I connect the flatcable the CPU doesn't boot up. Attacking the 2 issues:
1. GI doesn't work. Well, the lights in the coindoor do work and the angel eyes I put in the popbumpers also function. Would it, should it??
Yeah, I didn't place any GI leds....
2. CPU locks up when I connect the display. This one got me a headache but was as dumb as number 1 as well. I first tried to reseat the flatcable but that obviously didn't work. Then I studied the schematics but got no conclusion on that either. Then I removed the cpu board and while removing I found my mistake. WPC95 board have 4 headers to connect to peripheral board.
- powerboard
- soundboard
- external I/O
- display
I connected my display to the external I/O in the right upper corner where it should be on the display header. So, connected it to the display header and it worked like a charm.
Leftovers:
- face plates of the head
- helmet needs to be mounted
- apron placement
- start button doesn't function
- trough lighting
- mirror blades don't fit 100%, need to cut some edges
- one lamp isn't functioning, need to address that
- mount some flashers
- connect the speakers. I added a new set with a subwoofer, full range and a tweeter. Need to add the filter to that setup and wire it in.
1 week later
Some new pics.
1F43BB40-4483-44F0-9EC7-D225D166175F (resized).jpeg82AFE522-2BDF-4A7E-B5DB-E9D3B12E4B46 (resized).jpeg2B39D8C8-6865-48DC-8672-36618A21C3DC (resized).jpeg5B2869B6-A77E-4AC9-B5C9-2A1B4480A64F (resized).jpeg870C5AF3-1A03-41B8-A105-DDB1B1395D17 (resized).jpegA63E971F-E287-4682-B1D5-3A064B36D45F (resized).jpegCE54587B-3131-440D-ABDE-1F2A42E08D8E (resized).jpegD9047CDD-1F5E-4AE5-95F6-0B2FCD095E3A (resized).jpegDF9FB419-1A2E-4A73-872F-FEED220068B2 (resized).jpegF93C850B-C650-422B-909F-AAA4F3B9E923 (resized).jpegQuoted from Mancave:What's the board in your 3rd pic for?
Added my own speaker setup. In the backbox I mounted 1 mid/full range speaker and 1 tweeter. In the cabinet the subwoofer is placed. To get the correct range of frequencies to the different speakers I added a filter. Pic 3 shows that filter which is mounted in the backbox.
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