(Topic ID: 132740)

BOP Club...non 2.0

By MustangPaul

8 years ago


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  • 2,684 posts
  • 245 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 46 days ago by ralphs007
  • Topic is favorited by 118 Pinsiders

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There are 2,684 posts in this topic. You are on page 52 of 54.
#2551 1 year ago
Quoted from KenM:

Its not the flipper coil. Its coil #5 that sends the ball in to the pops after the skill shot. I can check the orientation but i never touched that in the partial teardown.

Sorry, my mistake. In little time I will be in front of the PIN, then I will think what It could be.

#2552 1 year ago
Quoted from BriPin:

Make sure you didn’t reinstall the coil so that the lugs are facing the playfield prop arm and shorting out against that. Ask me how I know.

I cant imagine its an orientation thing like this because it works fine in test with the playfield in the same spot.

#2553 1 year ago

Oops, error post

#2554 1 year ago
Quoted from Marco1973:

Sorry, my mistake. In little time I will be in front of the PIN, then I will think what It could be.

Coil n. 5 is AE-24900 without diodes.
If you can't move the bracket without problems with your hands, I think you need to replace It. Or it will be what I will do First.
16776786159397545412405142512230 (resized).jpg16776786159397545412405142512230 (resized).jpg

#2555 1 year ago

Thanks, Marco. My coil is wired opposite, weird.

Embarrassingly enough, I think BriPin was right. It's possible that the coil was touching the prop bar after it would jump a little bit after firing. I don't understand why that didn't blow a fuse. I must have had the prop bar in the correct spot when i had it firing in test mode.

#2556 1 year ago
Quoted from KenM:

Thanks, Marco. My coil is wired opposite, weird.
Embarrassingly enough, I think BriPin was right. It's possible that the coil was touching the prop bar after it would jump a little bit after firing. I don't understand why that didn't blow a fuse. I must have had the prop bar in the correct spot when i had it firing in test mode.

Nothing is embarassing here, automatic corrector of my phone apart, that doesn't identifyes the language and makes grammar mistakes
Important is you solved the problem.

3 weeks later
#2557 1 year ago

Got the insides smoothed out and had a stressful evening getting these decals installed... not a fun material to work with in a not a fun location to work... but I'm happy with the results. Up next, epoxy fill the holes.

20230324_214133 (resized).jpg20230324_214133 (resized).jpg
#2558 1 year ago

I have a Rottendog WPC98 board I my BoP with a remote battery pack. Lately the machine is losing its settings and resetting to factory when I power off. I've replaced the AA batteries but the problem persists. Any idea on what the problem is?

#2559 1 year ago
Quoted from Boslaw:

I have a Rottendog WPC98 board I my BoP with a remote battery pack. Lately the machine is losing its settings and resetting to factory when I power off. I've replaced the AA batteries but the problem persists. Any idea on what the problem is?

Corrosion on the remote holder?
Batteries not fitting tightly?
Bad connection to the board?
Try testing voltage across the holder with the game off.

#2560 1 year ago

Thanks, I’ll check all of those things. Does the remote holder require a diode? The holder that came with this game was a simple 3 AA battery holder with 2 leads but I’ve seen some other AA holders in pins with a diode.

#2561 1 year ago
Quoted from Boslaw:

Thanks, I’ll check all of those things. Does the remote holder require a diode? The holder that came with this game was a simple 3 AA battery holder with 2 leads but I’ve seen some other AA holders in pins with a diode.

Why don't you install nvram, removing battery ?
Here a topic on pinside about It.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/anyone-put-nvram-in-rottendog-wpc-mpu

#2562 1 year ago

little worried about soldering/desoldering. My board soldering skills are not good.

#2563 1 year ago
Quoted from Boslaw:

Does the remote holder require a diode?

No. The original setup was just three AA batteries. There is usually a diode when the original setup was a rechargeable battery of some sort.

#2564 1 year ago

Post a picture of how your remote battery holder is plugged in. It might just not be oriented the right way. Original holders on the board have all three of the batteries facing the same way. Not alternating like we often see in other handheld electronics or flashlights. Positive end is usually up, negative end down. The remote holder, if it is one of those ones with the two wooden dowels, has the positive end dowel on the left with the positive connection top left, negative dowel facing down on the right. Nothing in the middle. Remote battery holder then has your three AA batteries all facing the same way too. Check also that the little wooden tack/nail in the end of the dowel holding the wire in place is tight. I had one of those recently where it wasn't banged down in far enough and the wire loop could move easily.

#2565 1 year ago
Quoted from Boslaw:

little worried about soldering/desoldering. My board soldering skills are not good.

With the right tools it is a really simple operation. Desoldering pump and soldering tool. There are on Pinside lot of threads about it, I ordered exactly from the USA the tools I'm using. For you will it be easier and cheaper in comparison of what I did.

#2566 1 year ago
Quoted from Marco1973:

With the right tools it is a really simple operation. Desoldering pump and soldering tool. There are on Pinside lot of threads about it, I ordered exactly from the USA the tools I'm using. For you will it be easier and cheaper in comparison of what I did.

Not so fast. Yes, you definitely need to have good tools but you also need practice. I wouldn't recommend learning on any of the original Williams/Bally WPC boards or the Rottendog replacements. They are not as forgiving as other boards and you need to be comfortable with board work before working on those. Some had components with the leads folded which are a bit more difficult to get cleanly out. difficultly also depends if you are trying to save the old part or not.

I've gotten in too many WPC boards (both original and a couple Rottendog) that had damaged pads, traces, and through hole plating from prior work. That takes additional time to repair and costs more than having someone do it that works on boards all the time.

That said someone can definitely learn and do it. Just be extremely careful on any of these boards.

#2567 1 year ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Not so fast. Yes, you definitely need to have good tools but you also need practice.

Yes, I’m very handy and done plenty of basic soldering, but I also ruined pads on the first board I tried to work on and if I can easily replace a battery pack vs potentially screwing up a board, I’m probably doing the former at this point. I think I need more practice before I approach the real think and potentially damage a $200+ board.

Quoted from AlexRogan84:

Post a picture of how your remote battery holder is plugged in.

The battery pack that came with the machine was a standard up/down/up battery pack (confirmed by the [positive & negative signs on the pack itself). There are no wooden dowels anywhere. Just plastic with 2 wire leads that screw into the positive & negative terminals on the board. The wires are extremely tiny so I tried re-stripping and re-plugging them in to confirm that they had good contact. No change. My next stop will be to try testing voltage, and then to buy a new battery holder. If those steps don’t work I’ll be back here for more advice

#2568 1 year ago

As mentioned above, have you check voltage and continuity with a multimeter?

Quick check of continuity from the battery pack to board will rule out a lot of guess work.

1 week later
#2569 11 months ago

Anyone know where I can get a mini Space Shuttle for the shuttle ramp with the LED boosters? Only place I could find it was pinballdecals.com, but it says sold out.

#2570 11 months ago
Quoted from BiOLaTeRaLuS:

Anyone know where I can get a mini Space Shuttle for the shuttle ramp with the LED boosters? Only place I could find it was pinballdecals.com, but it says sold out.

Bought one of these ages ago, would be at least 8 years from memory. These could be reproduced reasonably easily as there's plenty of different shuttle models out there just the sizing could be a bit different.

#2571 11 months ago

Try this diecast model...

https://store.airforcemuseum.com/toys/diecast-toys/endeavour-postage-stamp-plane-104704.html

It's less than 5 inches long, or 4.88" if the 1:300 scale is acurate.

#2572 11 months ago
Quoted from Bublehead:

Its less than 5 inches long or about 4.8" if the 1:300 scale is acurate.

Might be a bit big for where the pinball decals one's mount and further up the ramp would definitely be out cause you are getting closer to the glass and the height would become a problem, especially as you need to attach it to some sort of support mount. Originals are approx 8cms long just at a dodgy measure with the glass on the machine, so bit over 3"

#2574 11 months ago

Double post.

#2576 11 months ago
Quoted from pencilneck:

Another step forward:

You're a madman for doing this. Great job

#2577 11 months ago

Cat seems unimpressed.

#2578 11 months ago
Quoted from RCA1:

Cat seems unimpressed.

Kitty is busy supervising! Great work OP!

#2579 11 months ago
Quoted from Bublehead:

Ok, then there is this

I've ordered a few of a slightly smaller type and will work on making a mount to suit. Once i get them i'll have a think about what to add to them (not just LEDS in the rocket boosters), another mod project added to the queue

3 weeks later
#2580 11 months ago

Having an issue with my BoP and wonder if anyone has experienced this or has a suggestion.
When the game starts the 1 Mil jackpot insert lamp on the back box just blinks.
The jackpot value won't advance no matter how many ramps, loops, spinner rotations are hit. The 1 mil insert just continues to flash rapidly.
When I do the single lamp test the lights on the leg all work as expected. I tested all switches and they are registering. There are no stuck switches either. I tried swapping game rom to a different verso, too. The game plays and works fine otherwise.

#2581 11 months ago

I officially leave the club as of the 31st of March.
I no longer maintain or have access to the BOP at work given they severed me from the company.

#2582 11 months ago
Quoted from mbott1701:

Having an issue with my BoP and wonder if anyone has experienced this or has a suggestion.
When the game starts the 1 Mil jackpot insert lamp on the back box just blinks.
The jackpot value won't advance no matter how many ramps, loops, spinner rotations are hit. The 1 mil insert just continues to flash rapidly.
When I do the single lamp test the lights on the leg all work as expected. I tested all switches and they are registering. There are no stuck switches either. I tried swapping game rom to a different verso, too. The game plays and works fine otherwise.

What happens when you score the jackpot? How many points does it award? You could take the glass off and fake a game to test using your fingers to move the ball if you want.

#2583 11 months ago
Quoted from mbott1701:

Having an issue with my BoP and wonder if anyone has experienced this or has a suggestion.
When the game starts the 1 Mil jackpot insert lamp on the back box just blinks.
The jackpot value won't advance no matter how many ramps, loops, spinner rotations are hit. The 1 mil insert just continues to flash rapidly.
When I do the single lamp test the lights on the leg all work as expected. I tested all switches and they are registering. There are no stuck switches either. I tried swapping game rom to a different verso, too. The game plays and works fine otherwise.

I would look if a switch remained blocked. But the suggestion of AlexRogan84 could help too.

#2584 11 months ago

Thanks guys, I think it’s good now. I changed game roms to clear out my nvram and restore factory settings. Jackpot is increasing finally and scored when collected.
Still not really sure how the game calculates an increases jackpot value. The manual just says hitting ramps and loops. I also read that hitting the pop bumpers does it to? I guess it just takes a while to increase sometimes.

#2585 10 months ago

I am looking for BoP black decals where the flash by the foot is not 'cut off' like here:
2023-05-06 16_25_13-Window (resized).png2023-05-06 16_25_13-Window (resized).png

But this version where the flash is bigger:
bop-black-cabinet-preview - CO (resized).jpgbop-black-cabinet-preview - CO (resized).jpg

Does any know a good source for high quality decals if possible in Europe, but other references are also welcome.

Please send me info per PM. Thanks

#2586 10 months ago

Got mine here:
https://pinballdecalseu.com/shop/bride-of-pinbot-black-pinball-cabinet-decals-set/

As you can see the final product is a bit different, not cut off as much as the sample shown on the web site.

20230124_214123 (resized).jpg20230124_214123 (resized).jpg
#2587 10 months ago

Been a while since I fired up BoP so when I did last week, I replaced the batteries and set options again. Didn't play a game though as I ran out of time. Turned it on today and both flippers don't work, no error codes. The timing is a bit suspect given the machine never moves, so before I get too deep (fuse? flipper controller re-flow?), I'm wondering if anything near the board batteries could have caused it? Thanks in advance!

#2588 10 months ago

I hadn't played my BoP in a while as well. Turned it on last night and hit the Billionaires Club first game, and I am just an average player. What a Rush! Such a great simple game!

#2589 10 months ago
Quoted from fossmin:

I hadn't played my BoP in a while as well. Turned it on last night and hit the Billionaires Club first game, and I am just an average player. What a Rush! Such a great simple game!

It’s honestly pretty unparalleled how rewarding it is.
Williams knew how to put on a show.

3 weeks later
#2590 9 months ago

First cabinet decal installed and trimmed out, happy with my results and stress levels back to normal since everything lined up.

20230608_215914.jpg20230608_215914.jpg
#2591 9 months ago
Quoted from pencilneck:

First cabinet decal installed and trimmed out, happy with my results and stress levels back to normal since everything lined up.
[quoted image]

What am I looking at here? It appears that you have inserts behind the decals?

#2592 9 months ago

Epoxy filled holes. There will be RGB LEDs mounted up.

#2593 9 months ago
Quoted from pencilneck:

Epoxy filled holes. There will be RGB LEDs mounted up.

Wow, that's a hell of an idea. Are you planning to go down the rest of the leg with it? Would love to see pics of the progress as you go.

#2595 9 months ago

That looks sweet!
Is the bottom of the cabinet invisible?

#2596 9 months ago
Quoted from RCA1:

Is the bottom of the cabinet invisible?

LOL i was wondering about that
My guess is it has a clear sheet of perspex as a base.

#2597 9 months ago

Polycarbonate (Lexan). Can use wood working tools to cut it so not too difficult to work with.

1 week later
#2598 9 months ago

Bit of an update on some shuttle mods. I'm getting some mounting brackets laser cut which i should have soon (ish). Hoping to have 3 red booster LEDS like the original but will also have some internal blue nose leds (on all the time) and maybe a red flasher underneath. It's still a work in progress but once i'm happy with a prototype and the mounting of it i will make some extras. Can't say how many nor how much the price will be at this stage...or when i'll get it all sorted but i do intend to make a few at the least.

#2599 9 months ago

Interesting issue. After you make the initial shot to activate the voice on the bride and are then shooting the optical shots my bride has an issue. If your first ball diverts into the right eye - which is technically the bride's left eye but right when you're facing her - the ball will end play. In other words if you're playing your second ball and you make that right optical shot the game will give you all your bonuses and instead of continuing will now end that ball and instead count the next ball at the shooter rod as your third ball. However if you shoot the optical shot and the diverter puts the first optical shot on the left eye - which again is technically the bride's right eye - the game plays normally continuing with the ball in play at the shooter rod. So if your next ball goes into the right eye (bride's left) then you get multiball. What could possibly cause the Game to skip, apply and score all bonuses and then jump to the next ball when you shoot the right eye first(again this is the bride's left eye)?

#2600 9 months ago

pencilneck, your cabinet light mod is boss.

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