PMed

I installed non ghosting frosted purple LEDs and have no ghosting issues. It looks great. I do have a bit of ghosting on some bulbs even though they are "non ghosting" but overall the the complete LED upgrade looks great on my BoF. I currently have the L3 roms...which rom set is best? I heard you have to some weird jumper thing for the L7 roms and I don't really want to deal with that.

Hi. After some games fuse 101 burned. Replaced it, burned fuse 102. Replaced. Both burned again.
Here are some pictures of the coils (new) and their wiring.
What do I need to do to play without problems ?
Thx for the help.

IMG_20221101_201448.jpg

IMG_20221101_201504.jpg

IMG_20221101_201512.jpg

I searched infos about the problem and found something that could be interesting.
The manual speaks about the flipper fuses: both 2,5A SB. This are the fuses I installed.
A tech cart found on the web speaks about two 3A SB fuses.
The difference is not so high but before testing the 3A fuses, I would like to know which one do you use in your pin.

• A-12697-1 is the first revision of the WPC-89 Power Driver board. It has the flipper relay components installed. F101 and F102 are used for the flippers. These are non-fliptronic in this game. Used for this purpose they should be 2.5A SB fuses.
• A-12697-3 is the second revision of the board. It does not have the flipper relay components installed. Used in fliptronic games. F101 and F102 are used as auxiliary +50V supply for playfield assemblies. Twilight Zone uses this auxiliary +50V supply. Used for this purpose they should be 3A SB fuses.

Problem solved.
I found on pinside a post talking about measuring diodes with a tester , after disconnecting one head. The left flipper coil had a burned diode. I changed it.
The right flipper coil had an unregulated end, so the blades wer not separated at the race end of the coil. I adjusted it.
Both are functioning without blowing the fuses.

Getting ready to install new ramps from Starship Fantasy. This is my first time swapping out ramps so I have a couple questions. Are there quick disconnects on the underside of the playfield to disconnect the switches on the left ramp and esp. all the switches on the right ramp? If not is it best to just desolder the connections, label them, and just reattach all the hardware and wiring once I get the ramp installed? I'm a tad intimidated and don't want to make it more difficult than I need to.

All ramps have quick disconnects to pull them out of the playfield. The only thing you may run into depending on how the wires are attached to the ramp is that you find they run through a hole in the ramp to get to the flashers/switches. If that is the case, you will have to cut or desolder from current switch and then run the wire through new ramp and reattach.

A picture is better than 100 words, expecially when you want to dismount and after rebuild pinball parts . If you have any doubt take a picture of the part, you will need it later (better if you make it from difefrent angles). That means, you can dismount parts how you prefere; if you take a picture you will be able to build the parts again without doubt. Naturally the fastest way is to use quick connectors, in your case. And if you are not sure you can post a picture here, or ask for a picture of a specific part or area.

Having an issue with some dead switches. Skill shot 200k, right loop top, Head right eye and mini exit left. Looking at the switch matrix, Plumb bob tilt and upper left jet bumper should be dead too, but they work. Common wire among them is white and yellow. Tried re-seating the connector and still dead, tried actuating all of these switches just to see if one was stuck, nothing. It was working up till a couple of days ago. In the process of checking continuity along the wire. TIA

Hi. Could you please write the nr of switches that are you giving problems according the manual ?

34=200k skill shot, 44=right loop top, 64=head right eye and 74=mini exit left. according to page 2-41 of the manual

Inspect the wiring going to each of those switches. You may have a broken wire or solder joint.

I think too like snakesnsparklers there is something with the cables.
How you can see the switches have the same line "4". Maybe you have problem with the SW 54 too.
I would search if there is some broken cable between SW 24 and 34.

BOP-MATRIX (resized).jpg

Keep in mind the actual playfield wiring doesn't necessarily match the layout of the switch matrix. For a very general example, not specific to BOP: You could have switches 14, 34, and 54 daisy chained next to each other. If you have switch 44 out you might assume something wrong with the wiring going to 34 or 54, but not necessarily. You just have to inspect the wiring going to/from each switch with issues to confirm.

I'd check SW 24 "always closed" but I'm not sure what that is?

that switch does not exist. its a test position. If it reads open there is a problem, there is no physical switch.

No physical switch. But it is triggered as always closed from the coin door interface board

Flipper switch arcing?
This normal on BOP?

Got a report from a fellow employee that the "right flipper" was sticky a few weeks ago.
I went in today to debug and couldn't reproduce.

The machine has been arcing at the flipper button switches since I initally did work on it. I'm curious if the arcing is normal?!

Does the machine have capacitors on the cabinet switches?

Yes, there are caps on the switches

Found the issue. White and yellow wire was bent weird in one place and I think it was broken underneath. Cut that piece out and fixed it. What a pain in the you know what to find that.

Yep broken wire inside the insulation sure is a bitch! Glad you found it.

Was having an awesome xmas evening with the bro, playing pinball and pool. Towards the end of the evening whilst in the middle of a game of pool the lights briefly flickered in the mancave and then my bro says, BOP just turned off
Turned the machine off and back on...nothing.
Suspected the fuse in the box near the on/off switch and sure enough totally blown. Tried another 5A in there to see what happens and blew straight away. I can't recall for sure cause it's been ages since i've had that box off but i think that's where the varistor/thermistor is? I'm guessing it's blown that cause i remember a tech mate saying once that blows it's fully lights/action out.
Will have a look in the clearer light of day and without the half day of bourbon/wine/food stone onboard LOL
Anyone had this happen before though?

Update on issue* De-soldered the varistor from BOP and attached the one from my Judge Dredd (which is all in bits still awaiting restore). Last time that machine was used it was all good so the varistor should be fine.
Whacked in another 5A slow blow fuse, turn on power.. BLAM - fuse blown to hell.
The varistor i swapped was exactly the same as the original and both original and JD one's seemed to test ok. Now i'm wondering where TF the issue is?? The 4 plug power board the machine is hooked up to has 3 other machines attached and has never been a problem (other 3 machines still working fine) only other thing inline is the EMI line filter and the output side of the switch box goes to the transformer.
Is it possible the transformer has a blown rail that has spiked to ground and would that cause a blown fuse??

Replace the filter

Didn't know filters went bad but there ya go
Luckily can still buy those.
Do you reckon that's the main reason it's doing what it's doing? cause i would doubt a stuffed transformer last of all.

You should be able to confirm if you temporarily disconnect one of the leads on the output to remove the load downstream. If it doesn’t blown then the filter may be ok. If it does blow then you’ve confirmed it is probably bad.

Cheers mate!! It turned out to be the line filter. First one i've had fail in 13 years pinball ownership so i'll definitely know what to suspect next time. Thanks!!

I was going to do this and then thought, bugger it, will just swap over with the one from my JD as that's not getting used right now.
Thanks for the suggestion!!

Trying something different....
bride (resized).jpg

Ok I'll bite - what is that?

Backbox leg light baffles?

I have a stl file somewhere for this which I'm doing on my build soon, need to find it!

They are already being made.

Great but I've done my own for myself.

Also got a couple of super cool mods happening, will post up when done.

Like this? https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bop-clubnon-20/page/46#post-6727975

yes!

Just realised that's in the side of your cab So you are going to light up the panels in the legs, presuming you'll cut the decal section out?
Are you going to have a plexi panel to cover the gap, inserts??

That’s neat

Does anyone know if the Helmet pcb mod board for leds is still available?

You mean these one's??
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bop-helmet-control-for-use-with-leds
Hasn't been much traffic in the thread recently but going off the last few posts the OP sounded like he was going to do some more.

fyi ... we have 2 BOP Proto Playfields from Perfect Playfields - they got mixed in with our regular BOP playfields. Different colored inserts ... if anyone is interested, we only have 2 ...

https://www.planetarypinball.com/pinball-BOP-PF-PROTO

Team PPS

Not sure how many he was making up, but I just ordered one last week.

Helmet PCB board

Just received pre-shipping information from the one I ordered last week.

After putting my BOP back together that worked fine previously, the skill shot coil started smoking on the first launch. No fuse blew. The coil works fine in test with no smoke. I tried it a couple times after checking connections and it keeps smoking. The 24-900 coil measured 5.7 ohms.
I'm not sure how the gameplay with switch works different than test other than that first skill shot switch is bypassed.

Any idea's where to start looking? Transistor and diode on the board?

Hi @KenM.
Left and right flippers has the same coil. So if you want you can try changing them testing in this way if the coil itself could be the problem.
In test mode flippers are receiving electricity only if you test them; during play electricity Is always ready, and goes trough when you push the flipper buttons.
I had a simular problem years ago and the problem was a shortcut. I would look if the diodes are ok too.

Make sure you didn’t reinstall the coil so that the lugs are facing the playfield prop arm and shorting out against that. Ask me how I know.

Its not the flipper coil. Its coil #5 that sends the ball in to the pops after the skill shot. I can check the orientation but i never touched that in the partial teardown.