From what I recall , all I did was cut pieces of 3m tape to fit the eye bracket. It was years ago and has held up nicely.Hope this helps!

Great news and thanks! So all the new faces have the guides glued on?

I never tried to remove the guides themselves. You shouldn’t have to if you go this route.

Ok. I was trying to see if the earlier replacements we’re screwed on and was hoping they did away with the need for the plate. But reading on here it cause some issues if not used.

Definitely reuse them! Although CPR will tell you a different story.

Curious - why to do say reuse them? I see zero need for them since the aftermarket is thicker and made of a stronger material.

The ball will not sit properly without them.

I don't have them installed on mine and it works flawlessly.

Was there ever a decal or cover piece of some kind to go in front of the skill shot light strip? To hide the direct view of the green circuit board the bulbs are mounted to?

Here's a new one... I got my new ROMs in the mail today and installed them. L-6 for the CPU and matching sound ROM set.

Seemed to go fine and game comes back up and plays like you would expect. Until I won a free game and the knocker fired and the game reset.

Huh?

And it was repeatable. Started a new game, got to a replay, knocker fires and the game resets.

Ok, check things out, cables and connectors look fine. Nothing seems to have been bumped while I was in the backbox. I also check the knocker during test mode and it actually caused the game to reset then too.

So I disconnect the knocker and test it and it doesn't reset the game. I start a new game and get a replay and it doesn't reset (it said I got the replay, but no knocker going off as the wires are disconnected).

Ok, so I play a few more games and then at one point early in a game, it resets while I had the ball in among the pop bumpers. Ugh.

So next up I take a "no more resets" gadget I had and installed it. Also plugged the knocker back in. Played a game, got a replay and the game reset when the knocker fired.

Hmmm... any thoughts on what to check? The game never did any of this with the previous ROMs... which were P-4, so an early prototype version I guess.

Got it figured out. CPU ROM wasn't seated properly. Removed and reinstalled and it's fine now.

you have googly eyes, and the ball can fall through the hole if the face isn't sitting level.

Nope - it looks and plays perfect. CPR has made these for a while now. It is likely an early production problem was corrected.

I've been researching potential mods for my BoP to really get it looking nice, and I was wondering what mods are highly recommended for BoP? I like the shuttle mod and pinduino a lot, to name a couple.

The game is factory pretty on its own. I don’t really think it needs anything mod wise. The mirrored backglass is a nice upgrade as is good quality LEDs.

The pinduino mod was a must for me. The ramp chase lights look so good while playing and the light strips that light up the face looks so much better than the dark hole it used to be. I also got a $5 space shuttle and stuck it on the ramp entrance with double sided foam tape. I am a fan of mirror blades, Titan rubbers, Evo Britecaps pop bumpers, and a few other small additions. 20220713_203829 (resized).jpg

20220713_203752 (resized).jpg

20220713_203808 (resized).jpg

20220713_203900 (resized).jpg

I realized my BoP is running on the L-5 romset and was looking to upgrade it. I've been reading that L-6 is a good upgrade but it doesn't have an "LED fix"? I also heard that L-7 isn't any good because of the billionaire club bug, and that L-8 is also lacking the LED patch.

Anyone know where I can get either the L-6 chip with the LED patch or the L-8 version with the LED patch?

Also, on my BoP when I shoot up the shuttle ramp and it doesn't make it, I know I'm supposed to hear the callout "Abort! Abort!" but I never hear it on mine. What would be causing that issue?

Switch sensitivity.

Take the glass off, start a game and simulate the condition with your finger. You’ll see what will need a small adjustment.

let see it, they have made no changes and can't bevel the sockets.

Hi.
My left flipper Is not functioning.
I restored the pinball completely(before It worked), maybe I made some wrong cable connection.
Could please someone take some pictures of the flipper area under the playfield please ?
Thx

IMG_20220730_150757 (resized).jpg

IMG_20220730_150806 (resized).jpg

Looks wired backwards to me.

20220222_190615 (resized).jpg

Agreed. Based on which end of the diodes the bands are on, you need to swap the two outside wires (yellow and the blue one)

88B081E4-AF09-4ABC-A288-9F2124FA406F (resized).jpeg

This happens more often than you would believe. It typically results from reversing the orientation of the solenoid lugs without realizing that diodes are polarized active components and when orientation is reversed polarity must follow.

You also need to swap the wires that short the hold winding through the EOS switch.

Non-fliptronic flipper wiring diagram from the manual. The manual documents a lot of things and it worth spending the time reading it. It is more often than not possible to find your issue from reading the manual.

non-fliptronic_flipper_wiring.jpg

I love this forum because it it really reactive
Mad_Dog_Coin_Op Thank you for your really clear picture.
AlexRogan84 Thank you for your explanation. Now I know something more.
DumbAss Thank you too for your suggestion. I know manuals are plenty of information, but you need to know how to read them too
Before your posts (of all 3) I didn't knew lot about it, now something more.

Anyway the first picture shows the previous condition of the flipper coils before restoration.
In fact I do not had a good/correct start point: wrong coil without capacitor.

To now: i turned the coils (they were installed in a wrong way if compared with your pictures - I don't know if that has some different effects).
I swapped the cables how you suggested me.

Left flipper is still dead. I hope I did not burn something with the inverted cables.

DSC_0276 (resized).JPG

IMG_20220731_114425 (resized).jpg

IMG_20220731_114432 (resized).jpg

Check the fuse next. F101 and should be a 2.5 Amp slow blow.

Also check the leaf switch on that left flipper button and see that you didn’t bump something loose.

682B10E1-8D71-458E-BCCE-DA707E8AC153 (resized).png

AlexRogan84 you were right. Fuse 101 was blown. Thank you very much.
Another thing to know for me.
Now Is all ok.

Now turn the solenoids around again. The lug end should be away from the stop. The stop is where the vibration is and increased vibration increases the risk the wires can be vibrated off the solenoid lugs. When you turn the solenoid around do it with the wires attached so you don't make the same mistake. If you're confident you can wire it correctly with the correct polarity (connections) then you can remove the wires as this will make turning it around a little easier (from a mechanical perspective).

EDIT: You should also remove the compression (conical) return spring as you already have the extension return spring installed. You don't need both and the extension spring is the better method.

You should read https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers for incredibly useful information on this topic.

DumbAss Are you something like a pinball engineer ?
You really have good eyes, I'm lucky
Thank you for the second time. I will reverse them again and I will remove the conic spring.

It's been ages since I've been on Pinside but I was searching "pinduino" to label some old project pics and it brought me to this. I love mine, if I recall it was one of the last projects before I considered the machine "done" and drifted off. Yours looks great.

It seems email notifications are disabled unless you have a paid account? That would explain a lot...

That means AlexRogan84 Needs to turn his coils too ?

I realize this is a year old post and the member sold the cabinet, but does anyone know off hand what flippers these are? The sale posting didn't mention it specifically and after catching up on the last few years of updates in here, I'm hoping to spruce up my bride a bit. Grabbed a Pinshield for the glass, some lighted flippers and I guess Star Post LEDs are a thing now, pretty slick. Thanks in advance.

1 (resized).JPG

These Bats are 20-9592, used in older Bally games like Bugs Bunny, Game Show and up to Black Rose. They are a bit longer than the normal W bats.
The normal W bats are 20-9250 fine Logo or you can also use 20-10110 with strong Logo.
To make your game harder you can also use the lightning bolt bats 20-9734, they are shorter.

Regards from Hamburg
Peter
www.buthamburg.de

Interesting, I have some decisions to make. Appreciate the quick response.

Personally I prefer the clear original style Williams bats for BoP.

20220801_213353 (resized).jpg

Those are great, assume the correct size? One of those with purple rubber to match my setup would be grand.

Yes, they are the correct size. The clear ones are hard to find in stock. It seems them are always the first color to sell out when they do a run of them. These guys have them in stock now.

https://cointaker.com/products/transparent-clear-flipper-bat-with-logo-20-10110-13

Perfect, I'll grab a pair. Thanks!

Wait, these were the original bop bats? I remember playing BOP when it first came out but don't remember the bats being like that.

I think he was saying original size/shape vs the Bally carrot flippers. BOP shipped with white flippers and red rubber

Correct. The originals were white with a part number of 20-10110-5. The clear ones are part number 20-10110-13. Same mold just different color. They look different because you can see the inside ribbing in the clear. That same ribbing isn’t visible in the white version. Both have the William W logo.

I just joined the club and the playfield is shot. It’s going to end up being a wall hanger at best.

This machine is a reimport from Japan that was operated in the US for a short while before being put into a storage that was unfortunately exposed to some elements.

Does anyone here have a good used playfield that they’d part with? I’d gladly send you mine as part of the sale.

I’d also be interested in a cabinet head to replace the one on our machine. Heck, if you have a stash of good usable items I could be interested. Some of the parts in this machine are surprisingly better than others.

Has anyone come up with a good option for a repaint of the helmet assembly / facial outline?

Thanks!
0A190A6B-0626-4ECA-9FD0-85A33C945AE6 (resized).jpeg158523FE-ADFF-4F33-92A3-9502C7EEA1E9 (resized).jpeg612C3C89-A368-44C8-9CF5-FF75B9D5EE1A (resized).jpegDC3BADC0-DEE8-4395-96E3-3418E702BF04 (resized).jpegE25B2593-39D8-4FD4-9755-1EA2AA6A54DB (resized).jpegE5143C10-BF1B-4BAD-8B7E-C03EE02D227D (resized).jpeg

You can get a new helmet from Starship…
https://www.starship-fantasy.com/ramps/The-Machine-Bride-of-Pinbot-Helmit

Warning!! You folks with restored machines might want to jump past this post….

This one has seen a bit of moisture. The cabinet head is faded heavily and took on water. The main cabinet is worth cleaning up a bit.

The playfield also was exposed to a bit of moisture and is pretty worn outside of the factory mylared area, nevertheless I am looking at my options to try and get her back into playable condition.

Have any of you installed a playfield protector? Seems like my best short term solution.

Also, Are many of you awaiting a hardtop or the planned end of year second run of Buthamburg playfields?
0769E383-525C-4FAD-9F4F-E3F45E624BD1 (resized).jpeg0A4861D4-B598-41BF-A9D0-FE181E842EB7 (resized).jpeg26AAC87F-0027-46DE-B9BB-225DE019E4C1 (resized).jpeg

D6D6235E-CA36-47D4-B82C-5B47ABA86B3C (resized).jpeg

A524F18C-2C4A-4418-B4C1-C443E9309A04 (resized).jpeg

The Buthambug playfields are the best around. Get that if you can afford it. No need to put a protector on it.

I agree, after about 500 plays on mine, there is not one dimple or mark. They don't get any better. If you can, get one.

20220713_203900 (resized).jpg

As part of my top down BoP rebirth, I went with this on the Bride helmet. I’ll add the W decal later.

Rustoleum Metallic Finish Bright Coat

3228D7A0-82BF-4126-931A-C5F09CFEA4A7 (resized).jpeg686006CD-8AE9-43DB-A757-7C6183088230 (resized).jpeg

Looks great!

Yeah it looks a lot better than I thought it would. Did you sand it down before application? How many coats?

I cleaned it and applied two light coats.