Speaking of sound, I encountered an intermittent issue where the sound on my BoP would suddenly lower in volume, or even cut off. But after playing a game for maybe 5-10 seconds the sound came back.

Is that due to certain components in the sound board wearing out?

That is probably one of two things. Your capacitors are failing on your sound card and need replaced or your header pins on the sound card have bad solder joints.

Does anyone have a scan of the insert decals? I'd like to try to fix a few of them.

I’m getting a Bride of Pinbot soon and while it is working well, I did notice that the metal box that seems to be a protector cover thing for underneath the rotating head assembly, is missing. I can see where it probably was screwed in but maybe got removed for maintenance and then never reinstalled.

Can you buy these as a replacement? Part number?

Are they crucial to protect against electrical shorts or some other reason?

It’s a ball catch pan. Check out Cliffy for a replacement.

Yes, Cliffy has them but I'm not sure if he is planning to make them again. I thought the quantity available was limited. I would snag one as soon as possible.

http://www.passionforpinball.com/bride-of-pinbot.htm

Ok, I am a little confused by the catch pan. If the ball did somehow fall into that catch pan, why wouldn't you want it to fall into the cabinet instead? If not you would have to collect it by removing the pan, correct?

No, it rolls over to the “small wheel” eject and comes up from there

Oh wow. Thank you sir. I wondered the same thing. Will definitely look to get one. Getting the game tomorrow. Super excited!!!

Got a quick lighting question for you experts on here. On my machine, once side of the helmet is out of synch/different light pattern for the first few minutes (15 or so) the game is on. It then seems to synch up after everything is "warmed up".

I'm assuming it's something on the light board the helmet is connected to. The connectors seem fine and I don't notice anything completely out of the ordinary but beyond that, I'm not sure where to look. Do I just replace the capacitors on the board or could it be something else?

Thanks in advance.

I would replace the capacitors, reflow the solder on the headers and check the resistors to see it they still are in specifications. The values are listed in the manual.

I have a similar problem with the lights in the middle of my BOP playfield. They flicker and do all kinds of random stuff. Same thing, after the machine "warms up", the problem completely goes away.

I have tracked the problem down to a chip on the power driver board. Someone put a socket on it and I suspect did a poor job with the soldering. Tapping on or pressing on the chip lightly while the machine is on makes the problem stop until the next power cycle. (I am pretty sure the problem is with the socket, as I have replaced the chip.)

Anyways... That little A-14007 board (I assume that's the one you are talking about) has similar chips on it, maybe check them out as well.

I got my Bride yesterday and so far so good. Had a question about ROM versions though. Mine shows as being rev P-4 on the CPU and then P-1 on the sound. That's pretty early compared to the L-7 that's available now isn't it?

Is that "P" for prototype code?

Would mine then be configured to run the 1MB chips as opposed to the 2MB? I have a Funhouse and it was similar, where you had to change the jumper on W1 and W2 to accommodate the bigger memory size. What revision used the smaller size and which one was the first needing the bigger size? I know of someone local that has the L-7 CPU ROM's and that's what I think I'd like to get. Wanted to confirm if that jumper needs to move or not?

Also, has anyone on here before put together a nice GI bulb map? Like a photo of the game with bulb location circled? Same for the playfield and backbox bulbs too. I have seen that for a few different games so wondered if it had already been done for Bride? My game is still all incandescent and I'll be changing it to LED. So that I CAN SEE!! lol

IMG_7613 (resized).JPG

I didn’t map it but what I did was buy 2 25 packs of cool white 2SMD (one wedge/one bayonet) Then I color matched all insert colors, with yellow getting cool white and I color matched the skill shot stickers. I then put purple no ghost in the helmet. Very minimal flicker on only one pattern, otherwise no flicker. I believe L7 may have a flicker problem. With L7 you also do have to change the jumper for larger memory. I opted for L6 and was happy with it. Here is a pic of what I did

B877DF33-35BF-4E8F-8F10-1012A32B51CC (resized).jpeg

That looks great. I like the white underneath the yellow idea. It makes a big difference in how the colour shines through I find.

So with L-7 requiring the jumper to be moved... are you saying with L-6 the jumper does not need to be moved?

All GI, yellow and orange are Comet Sunlight SMD2. Red, blue, green and purple are SMD2 actual color. The helmet is cool white SMDs. Don't forget to do blue eyes and red lips on both the faces and translite.

20220307_195904 (resized).jpg

20220318_151647 (resized).jpg

Yes, L-6 does not need a jumper

Right on. Thanks. That’s the one I’ll go with.

Had another question for the bridesmaids… is that what we are?!? lol

I realized on my game that there is no post right below (beside) that 2-bank of standup targets on the right side. Those are the twin green 5k points ones. I have the small hole in the playfield where something needs to go but not entirely sure what that is.

I though it might be another translucent blue plastic star post but then saw some pics of other machines and it looks like it could be a single metal stud post that doesn’t have anything screwed into it on top, just the lone post with a small rubber ring on it.

Anyone know for sure and what the part number is? Thanks.

I can't tell, is the GI frosted or clear? I think it's frosted. I agree that bride should be at minimum sunlight for GI, if not warmer. I'm likely going to do Comet Warm SMD2 tbh.

Frosted on GI.

This is the correct post:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-3905

It is actually in the manual under that part number but associated with the wrong picture.

That's perfect. Thank you very much.

Funny how Marco notes the mistake in the manual too from back in the day. Bye bye hardcopies nowadays... easy updates online instead.

My big ole bag of new bulbs is coming today. Going to pretty up the bride. Question about one preferred bulb colour… the single bulb that is at the top of the helmet. Upper right. What colour do people use there? I have purple for the 16 spots on the helmet sides but this one extra spot is separate. Like it’s an antenna for her sort of lol.

I’m not sure where you’re talking about. Does yours have an extra bulb in the middle where the W is?

This one here (in pic). Is it supposed to be there?

64882439-8B3C-472A-B4D0-0446534828D1 (resized).jpeg

Ohhh that one. I just did white. All that bulb is for is to let you know if the Pinbot playfield is open. When flashing, balls will go through to Pinbot but when off, balls will go into the face cube

I don’t even use mine. Not needed imo.

I've got green on my machine. Looks pretty nice that way, imo.

Yeah same as on mine + the one in the ball lock to match.

I like green for lock too. I've initially gone with a red bulb in that "Pinbot playfield open" spot... just thought that with all the red over there it made sense. Easy enough to change out to another colour if I feel like it.

I replaced a snapped and missing mini red plastic post on that Pinbot playfield thinking I would get all the rubber rings back to match what is in the manual. One of the ones that had the top snapped off was directly under the flasher dome on the right side of the helmet. And it appears as though when you try and screw down the helmet back to where it was, there is some interference.

Is this a common thing? Is there supposed to be a spacer under the right side of the helmet maybe to keep it up a little higher so that flasher dome doesn't push right into the mini post on the Pinbot playfield?

Is your helmet flasher dome installed properly? It is possible to install it incorrectly so it sticks out further than intended. I don't have any interference issues in this location. Post a pic.

Here are some pics. I’ve looked back at the image gallery in this thread and see some others have this same issue. Just looking at the angle that right flasher dome is on. Like you can tell it is being pushed up slightly.

0079C9BE-E02D-482F-9783-466B4CAB75F4 (resized).jpeg

523727E8-D236-4C89-9B5D-7237B4B9B663 (resized).jpeg

615D0C17-6A8B-47D3-A447-332394B1D171 (resized).jpeg

A0A6FAA0-1FA7-4C91-AD67-8A27312ED940 (resized).jpeg

When I redid my BoP, I replaced all the red plastic parts with blue ones and fitted all bulb holders with cold white LEDs, then added blue convolux. Looks awesome, very modern sci-fi.

The lenses of your helmet flasher bulbs seem to be sticking out too far. Looks like you might have an assembly problem. Here is the page from the manual that should help.

1D5E5B47-33D2-4C2B-86B1-ADB69E177AE5 (resized).jpeg

Bingo, just as I suspected. It looks like the flasher dome is installed on the outside of spacer #6. It should be installed on the inside of spacer #6.

Thought they looked like they were sticking out too much yeah.

9e871decc9f41592337ca20da4633010166fd8ad (resized).jpg

Interesting combo you have there! Can you posts a full pic?

If you have a photo to share of the underside of your helmet, I'd like to see how your spacers are in there. I got mine apart and the spacers were closer to 1/4" than the 1/2" the manual specifies.

I didn't do the restore on my machine so i haven't got any pics of the underside of the helmet unfortunately although when i looked back at the progress pics my mate sent me i did notice this one. The domes were sticking out at the time so he must have realised when he went to attach it to the machine that it was either wrong and or wouldn't fit well.

BOP5 (resized).jpg

Thanks. That helps. Seems a common issue like maybe which spacer was needed wasn’t well understood initially.

Amazing looking game you have there. Wow! And a yellow insert for the billion point shot… I read that indicates it’s a prototype Diamond Plate version of the playfield. Is it original like that or did repros get made with those inserts yellow like that? Beautiful either way.

Nice ! I’ve mentioned this to a few others but you still have the protective film on the ball face guides.

Game is working well… just put this score up. Factory settings and no extra balls awarded. Just a real rhythm to getting both balls back up the shuttle ramp to spin the big wheel over and over and over.

13F4C964-82CC-4F1E-8BA9-5802CF2999AE (resized).jpeg

Yeah this was a Buthamburg repro, he did about 5 of the prototype one's with the yellow inserts on the first run of the repro's. Think Peter was planning to do the same on the next run also.

You mentioned it to me when i first posted the pics of the machine when i got it back home I did remove them too TY, this is the original pic still

Is it normal that when you get a great score, high enough to be a “high score” it won’t accept it if you got the billion point shot?

Other than my 1st place high score, the other three high scores aren’t that high. What I’m finding is that it won’t let you put your name in for both a billionaires club AND a high score. If you got both, it only does billionaires. But if you got a high score, like 150 million, it will give you the high score place. 2,150,000,000 for example would not.

I am running old P-4 prototype code until my new ROMs come in the mail. So maybe that’s all it is. Just weird is all.

That’s normal. This game has two separate high score tables. You can have an excellent game and not make the billionaire club. That’s what the regular high score list is for. Without this, anyone who is skilled would just spam the big wheel when they got to that point and could put up a score so high, a more average player could not hope to get on the high score list.

I must say that leaving the game on and hearing it from the other room seductively saying "play me" is pretty damn funny.

Anyone have a part number for the correct wire gate and bracket used at the end of the skill shot/shooter lane eject to where it sends the ball into the pop bumper area? I don't think my wire gate is right nor the brackets holding it in place. It's too tall from what I can tell and is pushing up on the Pinbot upper playfield, forcing the ball left slightly, which means it pretty much never goes down the skill shot plunger lane from up there.

Can you explain or show what you mean with 3M tape? I was able to make new holes for the mouth but I can’t do the eyes as the guides are glued and not screwed on and screws are under them.

02D04A15-F696-4D37-BDDF-22332CD66158 (resized).jpeg

B1A965DB-C465-4AC4-8E80-8F90D20CE3CC (resized).jpeg

125690EC-6E3D-4BE3-A1FB-3F65486734C2 (resized).jpeg