Has anyone added a Space Shuttle toy to their machines and if so, which one?

I have one. It's this one: https://www.pinballdecals.com/BOP_ShuttleModPage.html

It came with it.

I have one and it is a nice upgrade.

Hey folks! Just scored a BOP from an operator who had it “restored” ie mutilated by an operator in Albany. This game is pretty fun! It had several connectors hooked to the wrong spots, half of it wasn’t working.
It’s filthy, and the animals ripped the Mylar off with no regard for the artwork. They did the most half-assed decal work ever.

It’s playing now, and it’s pretty good. I need help with one spot on the playfield F5EEAB0C-9009-4C8A-A47F-121939F87560.jpeg
and also wanna know if there are recommendations for putting this on route? I know the GI gets hotter than hell, so how can I protect the boards and connectors while preserving the amazing “fader” effect the do with the incandescent bulbs?

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Looks like you need a new ramp and a new plastic!

As for the lights, invest in a LEDOCD and GIOCD, and then you can use LEDs while still preserve the fading. There's also a similar thign for the helmet lights. I put all three boards into my BoP and am very happy with it.

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The holes for that metal guide rail look to be completely flogged out so that's going to be an issue for a start. Definitely will be better off with a new ramp and plastic as that will close off the gap where that rubber? is. Only thing i can think of is using something like that wood bog to repair the holes for the guide rail and then re-drilling so it's a tight fit. I've seen some "interesting" operator repair jobs over the years and that's up there with the best/worst

It certainly outdoes some of them. And it doesn’t work at all, just pulls the wire form out constantly.

I just learned that my Pin•Bot bagatelle playfield has some broken pegs, where can I buy a new one? This game is pretty hosed, so I’m thinking of buying a repro playfield and plastic set and redoing it completely.

Who makes new ramps?

After seeing Starship Fantasy at shows for years, I finally have a game he actually makes ramps for lol. Exciting!

If you've only got busted red pegs then those are easily replaceable, most of the parts suppliers should have those (Marco's, Pinball Life, Etc) If the upper playfield is busted then these were available at one time, probably still are but i haven't looked in ages. I do have a fairly reasonable 2nd hand one that was taken off my machine, only removed as i replaced everything i could when mine was fully restored. Also got a set of spare ramps that are for, all intents and purposes, brand new. They were added to my machine not too long before it was fully stripped down in preparation for restore (which then all sat around boxed up for a few years before it got done)

I have broken a bunch of those pegs. Yeah they are super easy to replace. Because of their age (that's my story and I am sticking to it) they are brittle and they snap when I put new rubbers on them.

You guys are talking about these right: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8044-9

Yes just the red pegs, the tops of 3 of them snapped off, before I got it. The ball just drops into the skill shot which is aggravating. The ball is also getting stuck next to the heartbeat ramp where the plastic is broken and the crapola wireform constantly pops out.

I’d like your ramps but guessing from your location, shipping would be fairly expensive!

Oh and the tiny post on the right outlane drains the ball nearly every time. I’d say 9/10 times. It’s excessively bad. Suggestions? It almost looks like it’s a silly mini-post really.

Just posted my new 3D BoP flipper toppers for sale: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/124413

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If you mean the metal post at the the end of the ball guide rail shown in this pic (photo of the left one, easier to photograph) then there's not a lot you can do with that unfortunately. I have Titan rubbers on the machine and they do seem to be somewhat thicker on the outside diameter than regular rubber so that may help. If you are getting bad drains then the only thing you can do is to move the star post to it's lowest position.
If you have no luck with buying new ramps then i would sell off my spares if that would help, don't think i'm going to need them. Postage to overseas from Oz goes off weight, not box dimensions so even though the ramps are fairly lengthy the weight isn't huge overall. Probably be looking at about $25-$30 AUD just at a guess.

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Hi all, just picked up a BoP
Great game
Does anyone have a link to a rubber size and placement chart,please

Hi guys- newer member to bop club. Could use some assistance. I bought this game not booting with playfield in a box head motor not working at all. Wont move in test mode.

I got the game to boot- blanking circuit issue. Reseat chip on mpu and all is well.

Now I'm working on the head portion. To be honest- I'm not following theory of operation.

head apart- switches work. Coils for ball eject work. Bench test motor it works. Yet head does not spin

Q22 for head relay works. My understanding is the relay is to control rotation' ie clockwise or counter clock wise? Is this correct?

Q20 for head motor I'm not certain what I should see. I do know that when testing transistor with multimeter it reads similar to q22. So nothing jumps at me saying bad.

At driver board j122 has 4 wires populated in plug. J122-1, 2 and 3 are at 12V. J122-4 I have nothing. Pin 4 corresponds to q20 that is head motor transistor. Should I be seeing 12v there? If so then thats an issue.

But where hell is the 20v coming from to the motor regulating board? Because I do not have 20v on j1/1. Nor do I have 12v at j2/1

Right now- my gut is saying j122/4 should have 12v. But until I understand theory of operation I dont want to rip anything apart.

Worse case this upcoming weekend I can get access to a working machine and get values off it to compare with mine see what's missing.

Yet hoping someone can fill in the blanks for me. Attached pics of diagram if that helps

Thanks

Mike

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Just a follow up to above post now that I understand theory of operation. Found where 20v comes from and all makes sense now that I have all 3 diagrams to complete circuit. Just above 2 dont tell whole story.

Basically need the 20v- that would be the start of the circuit. So from transformer through bridge to board and out. Led 5 iirc is the check bulb for the 20v circuit.

From board the 20v goes into motor reg board and is regulated to 12v. That 12v is sent to relay assembly and q20 transistor. The q20 when operated is the ground to complete circuit that allows head to spin..

Q22 for relay is there to swap direction of motor.

Im bot use to working on wpc William's but i find it odd they didnt have a 12v power supply that they took 20v and regulated it down.

Just wondering if anybody can help with this? I would love to get some new baffles and would be happy to print some extras!

Season Greetings. I posted this on the technical thread a few days ago. Thought I should post here hoping a fellow BoP owner might have some ideas.
I have been having a problem with the head coils not pulsing strong enough to eject the balls from the eyes and mouth on my BoP. This problem occurs during normal game play as well as during the head coil solenoid test. specifically, once the ball enters say, the mouth or eyes, the switch registers and the game will energize the coil to eject the ball from the socket. The plunger will sort of bump the ball but does not fully extend enough and strong enough to eject the ball. The ball will raise off the switch a small amount, then fall back causing the switch to register again and the coil will pulse again. this will typical happen 3 times and then the coil will begin to pulse stronger causing the plunger to fully extend and to easily eject the ball. As noted, this occurs on the mouth coil as well as the left and right eyes and it occurs in normal game play and when in coil test. All the other game coils both low powered and high powered work perfectly in the game and are very strong. I am getting 76 volts at each of the head coils. I am getting 76 volts also on the return pins at J127-8, J127-9 (eye solenoids) and J130-9 (mouth solenoid). The transistors seem to test o.k. and interestingly, when I manually use a jumper to ground the tabs of the transistors for each eye coil, I get a strong pulse and ball eject every time. Note the mouth coil is the same as the eye coils (AE-30-2000) except it is driven by a TIP 36c transistor (Q70) so I could not ground its tab. Guess they ran out of low powered transistors on the board.
I would appreciate any thoughts, ideas or suggestions on what I could try next. thanks.

Could use some help. After two years, my once hard-used Bride is restored and almost ready to play. New playfield, new head box, plastics, ramps, switches, etc. However, the head rotates just a quarter turn. See photos. Yes, I redid this girl in 2.0 cabinet decals, and made changes to make her my own, with some fantastic help from Eric Lyons, aka Professor Pinball. Any thoughts on fixing this issue?

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Wow, what an amazing job! Looks incredible.

What are the position switches reading? Maybe one is registering when it shouldn’t?

A few things I can think of…check the board under the playfield towards the bottom left and reflow the solder joints. Also inspect the lower bracket that holds the faces and bend it a bit if the faces are binding ( happened on mine) . Lastly check the top switch under the faces. I believe it may be switch 76 but not 100 percent sure . Best of luck!

Thank you will do, out of town today but will try all suggestions. This is a top favorite game and I want her to work.

How bad do you have to be to register a credit dot from a head switch? Apparently this bad. Please let me have one good game...

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Pretty bad lol. Mine is set up pretty brutal with outlines wide open and if you shoot into a post near that ramp you can count on it flying down the right outlane. I seem to be able to get to a big wheel spin almost every game which is sad. When I first got the game (my first) it seemed a lot harder but I guess I just know how it plays. She’s not gonna win any beauty contests with her planking but she plays smoother and better than other copies I’ve played. Here’s what it looked like when I got it vs now

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Thanks for your help earlier. All is now working, i.e., the head rotates properly. The problem was a short in row seven of the switches, which apparently affected the head. A sling was out and a few other things, which helped track down the problem. Now a new problem though. The gate that closes to the mini playfield and diverts that ball to the face will not close, even after shooting the ball into the mini playfield. If you then test it and let the ball roll to the face, all that works properly in that the voice activation starts, etc. I ran the test on the gate and it works (up and down) in test mode but not when playing the game. Any thoughts?

Two things I can think of, by chance is your gate installed backwards? The bottom the raises should be pointed towards the face. Other thing would be the shuttle ramp lower switch. Is it triggering when the ball is shot under it?

I officially get to join this club!

I finally found a Bride that I get to call my own! Absolutely thrilled with this newest addition. I traded my High Speed + cash for his bride and brand new Buthamburg PF and couldn't be happier. Neither one of these pins will EVER leave my collection.

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The gate is in correctly. Is the shuttle ramp switch supposed to open or close the gate that diverts to the face? That of course makes sense. In test mode, and I rolled a ball through it both ways, the shuttle ramp switch opens and closes, but the diverter gate does nothing. Any further thoughts on how to test that link? Admittedly, I am not that well-versed on electronics, but would appreciate the help. Everything else on this game is finally working after a great deal of work and cash. It is frustrating (yeah I know that is pinball ownership).

Congratulations! They are both great machines! I've owned both for 25 years and they are both keepers. If you haven't tried it yet get the new PEMBOT code for PINBOT. Refreshes the game and makes it a lot better. PINBOT was my first game and BOP the second. The BOP is currently my wife's favorite machine. There is plenty of support here if you have any issues with it.

Thank you! I might still be in my honeymoon phase (no pun intended) but I think this might be one of, if not the most fun pin I've ever played.

I was reading about PEMBOT a few months ago, I think it's definitely in my future. Although, I think I'd like to install a ZIF socket so I could easily switch between ROMs if I wanted to switch things up.

If you haven't yet joined the Billionaires club, then you're gonna be even more pleased with your BOP when you do. Its certainly an event I always look fwd to (so close many times, made it in a few times only in 5 years)..

An easy way to tell during gameplay is if you hear a shuttle launch noise along with several flashers as the ball goes under the ramp entry switch. Or you go into the test menu find switch edge test and similarly roll ball under the ramp switch and see if the switch pops up on the display. I haven’t looked up there in a while to see if there is another switch in the helmet area closer to the gate or not but I’d imagine it would have to be the ramp entry switch due to the speed at which the ball travels

Joining the club is one of the best feelings in pinball!

Unfortunately, I have not yet joined the club.... However, I am trying everyday!

Maybe I am a simple kinda guy, but I don't understand some of the negative reviews BoP gets. I haven't had a chance to play Jack Bot yet, but I think BoP has a better playfield layout and is a lot more fun than PinBot. Not to mention the awesome light show as she comes to life! Different strokes for different folks I suppose.

On a side note, I was playing yesterday and noticed that when I would lock the ball in her mouth, it would immediately kick out and go down to the ramp gate. Same for when I would lock the eyes. After locking the first eye, it would immediately kick out and go down to the ramp gate. Locked the second eye and it immediately kicked it out. Any thoughts?

Single player or multiplayer?

I have had this, when in middle of the game when already on the eye face and restarted by pressing start. Hm but as oradke mentioned, could also have been in multiplayer,don't remember.
Anyway what helped was shutting down and restarting. Everything was fine again.

Single player.

Now that you say it, that's exactly when the symptoms started. I played multiple more games and they were all the same, but I did not try powering off/on. I will report back when I get home from work.

I appreciate the quick responses! You guys are awesome!

You can try these: ebay.com link: itm

Did you purchase this? If so how is the quality?

Yes, I did purchase it for my machine...I have not installed it yet as I am doing a restore on my BOP and haven't got to that point yet...I am very satisfied with the quality...much more robust than the original.

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Nice! Really like the table of pinball assortments as well!

Thanks...they are all under glass on my pub table...

Very cool, thanks for posting!

Got mine today! Not nearly as yellowed as yours. Mine was getting brittle and had small cracks at the ends. This is nice and white and a tad thicker.

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Back in the club after stripping a 2.0 kit out and moving it to a very happy gentlemen in NC. Hoping MustangPaul doesn't boot me for starting with a 2.0 one

They look really nice. Is there a taper at the join ends on either piece so they marry up nice and level? little hard to tell with the pics i've seen so far. I had a look at the guys Ebay listing but it seems he doesn't ship to Oz

Yes, each connecting end tapers into each other for a smooth transition. I would contact the seller and ask him if he will ship to Australia, if not, I am sure one of us could buy them and send them to you, just have to cover the cost. Heck, if he doesn't, let me know I will get them and send them to you.
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Cool Thanks for the pic that makes it much clearer and also, thanks for the offer, very much appreciated!!!
I do have a Shipito account that i can have items sent to, consolidated into 1 box and posted and usually that's no worries. On occasion i've struck a bit of weirdness (reluctance) from Ebay sellers to even deal with other countries. One guy in the US recently was selling a Gottlieb Stargate manual and i messaged him about having it posted to my mentioned Shipito account in CA.....next thing i know Ebay is telling me the seller has blocked me and i sure never got any reply LOL.
I'll send this bloke a message and see what happens