No, I'm pretty sure they're in the right order and nothing is catching. My Bride is a bit schizo.

For a while, the face wasn't working as a result of a problem with the 1st switch in the wire frame after the ball exits her mouth. That switch wasn't registering every time. The ball would leave her eyes, then the music would stop and both balls would be locked. I replaced that switch and after much adjusting, got it to trigger the face to the next phase correctly.

Then, the face started skipping the eyes during games. I reflowed the solder on the relay board and all was good.

Now, the face always starts on eyes at the beginning of a game, even though every face tests correctly when I cycle the face in test mode. The switch registers correctly on all but the last face during tests.

My next step will be to make sure the switch insider her face is wired correctly (I believe it's supposed to be wired differently than the other switches in the game).

I can take some pictures here if it helps?

That would be great if you've got yours disassembled already. If not, no worries. I think there are some pics of that switch somewhere on pinside.

Hi I've had a BOP for over 2 years no real issues until the other day my wire lock didnt release the ball after it locked ball 1. It ball searched and never released it. I checked switches on the ramp and tested and they are working in menu. Took apart coil, cleaned and replaced plastic tube, reassembled and it started working fine. 2 days later same issue. Replaced the ae 26 1200 coil worked 2 more days great and then repeated issue. What am I missing? It's like the coil is getting power sometimes or something. Need some guidance.

Are the switches in the wire frame below her mouth testing fine with a ball when you drop it right below her mouth, as opposed to testing with your finger or testing with the ball just above the switch? That's one of the problems I had early on - the switch would test fine when I pressed it with my finger, and even sometimes when I rolled a ball over it, but when I rolled the ball from her mouth, it rarely ever tested correctly. I still have to adjust it occasionally to get it to trigger consistently.

I was going to suggest the same as Boslaw

Test with a ball and physically move the switches further out so they get a definite switch on with a ball.

Maybe they dont always get fully engaged by the ball?

Bend the wire out in the switch if needed?

So a few things of note I guess.

The first face goes on the side with the big scoop out of the top square panel.

Then to left is eyes.

Mouth, eyes and first full face all have a wide slot pressed into the top square panel. For the switch to roll into.

Make sure the switch is pushed up enough to engage. It's normally open when it's in one of the three slots and it closes as the head turns.

The switch is pressed ON as the head turns and is off when it drops into place on a face. With the exception of the very last face, which has no slot on the top holding plate.

Face 1 mouth, has slot
Face 2 eyes has slot
Face 3 face has slot
Face 4 face does not have a slot for the switch to drop into.

IMG_20210202_131708__01 (resized).jpg

That's how it calibrates, by knowing where those 3 slots are as marked in red.

IMG_20210202_130750 (resized).jpg

IMG_20210202_130754 (resized).jpg

IMG_20210202_130825 (resized).jpg

Biglouie Thanks for those pics. Very clear. Depending on when I get done with work tonight I'm going to check to see if the diode in her head is oriented correctly.

Opened her face, diode and wiring are correct. Manual Head rotation tested perfectly. Switch registering correctly on every face. Took the roller arm off the switch and added it back. Problem is now gone. This is the most finicky pinball machine ever.

My god, she's Alive! Thanks for the advice on the switches. Between adjusting lock switch 2 on the ramp and reseatng the rom chip that seem to work. She is now back to her beautiful self again.

20210205_182352 (resized).jpg

Good that it's fixed tho! Maybe that switch wasn't quite engaging enough..

How do you get the white plastic "cam" off of the motor?
thx

It's not pictured in this photo my another poster.

Lots of good detailed information just on the head here:

Not sure I understand where you mean. Got a pic?

Thx for the video, but it doesn't show how to take the motor bracket assembly apart. Photo is from the video.
thx

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It,s been a few years since I had mine apart. I recall it just being slightly pressed on (white cam). The shaft of the gearbox has a 'T' on the end.
Zoom in of the second picture of this listing, for referance.

https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/parts-by-machine/williams-parts/the-machine-bride-of-pinbot/03-8476.html

I was having some excessive side to side movement, causing the position switch to sometimes not register correctly, as this person had:
Read this link and look at the last picture. Mine also had an oversized washer, which was riding under the white cam causing everything to run not true. Make sure it has the smaller washer.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bride-of-pinbot-head-motor-problem

Hope that helps somehow.

izzy apologies, I didn't take this piece off mine when I reconditioned the gear box.

Thx for the info.Didn't want to end up breaking it.
izzy

A few months ago I posted that I was looking for gate #A-14372 for my BoP. It's a one-way gate that is no longer available.

I got a metal shop to make up 15 of them. They will sell for $15 ea + shipping (excludes the wire, which IS actually avail from Marco and others, or you can bend yourself). Price is high because they used expensive equipment time for a limited run.

The gate I'm talking about is seen in the video at the following linked post:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bop-clubnon-20/page/38#post-5573313

I'm using one and the fit and operation are perfect - stops a lot of SDTM drops from the pops area.

PM me if you're interested.

Hi.
I bought my BOP more than one year ago.
Now I'm starting to restoring it.
The first thing I noticed is the playfield is without the lifting mechanism like other williams pinballs with DMD.
Are all the pins that way ?
If yes, did someone installed the mechanism ?
Thx

Yes, BOP has the rear of the playfield on a simple post style hinge point, like older games.

I know my T2 is a DMD with the same hinge system as BOP. Not sure when they changed over to the newer system.

Getaway was the first game to use the guides instead of the hinge

I would see the pictures of someone who installed the newer rails for upraising the playfield.

Maybe is there someone who has a used playfield that wants to sell it ?

Does anyone know of a Vendor that sells Mirror Blades for Bride? Any info is appreciated.

Pinballdecals. I think you can use one of the types they sell.

Tilt Graphics sells them!

Thank you.

Thank you.

Does anybody have a spare backbox light baffle or is able to loan theirs to @soulrider911? He's willing to make a model of it for 3D printing. I don't see these available for sale anywhere and most I've seen (mine included) are so damaged or brittle and prone to breaking when changing a bulb. He's already made one for CFTBL, check here to see!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/3d-printing-sharing-thread-lets-better-the-hobby/page/15#post-6290810

116-2 (resized).jpg

There was rumors of these being remade but i haven't spotted anything about this for a while now. I even emailed Pinball Life a year or so back asking if these could be done but didn't get a definitive answer Mine would be in the shape of most i reckon, don't breath on it too heavily Be VERY keen to buy one if they come up for sale as it was the only thing unobtainium when i had my machine restored.

Pinball life has them on the to do list but no eta from what I understand .

Hey guys, If someone can make some measurements, I can 3D model this up in Solidworks and generate an stl file. Don't want to go into production, but you could get anyone with a 3D printer to print you one using it, or use a service. Any interest in that? I own BOP, but she is currently in climate controlled storage while we have work done on the house, otherwise I would just measure it myself. I would most likely need the thickness of the base, the height from base to the top of the baffle, the overall length and width, plus a nice clear straight on picture of it next to a ruler. I could then import the image and use it as a guide to draw the baffle shapes, getting the relational dimensions from overall length and width. Simple job really, take me an evening at most, including test printing one.

Hey folks yes if someone feels comfortable shipping me one I can make an stl file, I can also print some for folks
Cheers

If anyone is brave enough, this is probably the best option

Cleaning up my BOP today and the socket on the upper left ramp Assembly was so brittle it fell apart and split in 2.

It is 24-8821 according to the manual but no luck on a search. Any other alternatives?

bulb socket (resized).jpg

Only place i could find one was over here >>
https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/24-8821.html

Thanks! I’ll check it out!

Have an NOS BOP translite signed by Python if anyone here is looking for a unique piece of history.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bride-of-pinbot-nos-translite-signed-by-python-anghelo

They plan a (last?) run in autumn this year.

Any update on these? Mine would be wayyy too brittle to post from Oz to you unfortunately, otherwise i would do so.

https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/playfield-parts/sockets/24-8821.html

Yes ordered and installed! Even have a spare JIC

If anyone is thinking of selling their BOP, I'm looking for one, prefer to find one here in Canada if possible, Thanks!!

I’ve had my BOP for a few years with the playfield at about a 5 degree slope, but recently played one in the wild (at Pinball Perfection in Pittsburgh) and it seemed to have a much steeper angle to the playfield. I just made my machine a bit steeper but was curious what angles other BOP owners use.

In general my games are set at 6.5 degrees.

Just throwing it out there. My BOP is missing the thick guide wire that is on the right hand side of the entrance to the heart beat shot. Anyone have an extra they are willing to part with?

Same here: 6.5. Works great.

I am also using 6.5 as measured on the playfield.

Yep 6.5

Four owners with a playfield angle of 6.5 degrees--thanks for the input! I'm measuring 7.5 degrees on my playfield (after nearly maxing out rear levelers and putting fronts at minimum) and will see how that goes before dropping it to 6.5.